Newbie + Tacx Flow Smart T2240 + Zwift

2

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  • nibbsy
    nibbsy Posts: 41
    Thanks very much, that Zwift blog site looks really useful.

    A couple of other questions:

    - What is the best way to calibrate the Tacx Flow? I was expecting to see an option to do this within Zwift, but couldn't see one. I ended up using the Tacx Training app on my phone via bluetooth, but it seemed very flaky and I kept getting error messages and having to restart the app.

    - I've read that using ERG mode means that you don't need to change gear in a workout, as the trainer will automatically adjust the resistance to match the target wattage. I'm finding I change gear quite a lot though, so wondering if I'm doing it wrong? The way I do it is to keep a fairly steady cadence, then use an easier gear for lower wattage target and switch to a higher gear when the wattage target increases. Does this sound right?
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    Nibbsy wrote:
    - What is the best way to calibrate the Tacx Flow? I was expecting to see an option to do this within Zwift, but couldn't see one. I ended up using the Tacx Training app on my phone via bluetooth, but it seemed very flaky and I kept getting error messages and having to restart the app.

    Try the Tacx Utility app there's no way to do it within Zwift.
    - I've read that using ERG mode means that you don't need to change gear in a workout, as the trainer will automatically adjust the resistance to match the target wattage. I'm finding I change gear quite a lot though, so wondering if I'm doing it wrong? The way I do it is to keep a fairly steady cadence, then use an easier gear for lower wattage target and switch to a higher gear when the wattage target increases. Does this sound right?

    That's my experience, choose a relatively easy gear, maintain your candence and don't shift, the resistance will come to you even if you feel like it isn't, it is. If you change gear the trainer will constantly be chasing you around.
  • nibbsy
    nibbsy Posts: 41
    Ok thanks, I'll have a look at the Tacx Utility calibration this evening.

    I'll also try starting out with an easier gear and not changing. I was just finding it very difficult to meet the higher wattage targets in the easier gear, but maybe I just need to give the trainer more time to adjust the resistance automatically.

    Another one - I had assumed that the trainer would adjust the resistance in accordance with changes in the Zwift course (i.e. harder resistance when going up hills). Is this not the case? Or is this only the case in the free ride and race modes?
  • oldbazza
    oldbazza Posts: 646
    JoeK1973 wrote:
    So I got the T2240, had a couple of head scratching sessions trying to hook up Zwift using my Nexus 5 (using Zwift Mobile Link as a bluetooth/Wifi bridge). Basically, Zwift was recognising the T2240 in the 'power meter' and 'cadence' sensors but not as a controllable trainer. Anyway, I thought I'd try my iPad Mini (version 1) and see if it performed any better.

    Success! Recognised as controllable trainer, power, and cadenc estraightaway, and performed flawlessly for the 90 mins I spent finding my way around Watopia. Also did a 20 min FTP test, my legs feel it this morning!
    myideal wrote:
    BTW:

    Does anyone known of a good iPad mini holder / mount for the bike handlebars? Also where to purchase one of those from?

    I'm thinking of getting this one - http://www.halfords.com/cycling/turbo-trainers/turbo-trainer-accessories/tacx-tablet-handlebar-mount

    I have one of these for my i-pad and it works fine;it seems a bit flimsy but once set-up it's ok,no movement at all.
    Ridley Helium SL (Dura-Ace/Wheelsmith Aero-dimpled 45 wheels)

    Light Blue Robinson(105 +lots of Hope)

    Planet X XLS 1X10(105/XTR/Miche/TRP Spyre SLC brakes

    Graham Weigh 105/Ultegra
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    Nibbsy wrote:
    Ok thanks, I'll have a look at the Tacx Utility calibration this evening.

    I'll also try starting out with an easier gear and not changing. I was just finding it very difficult to meet the higher wattage targets in the easier gear, but maybe I just need to give the trainer more time to adjust the resistance automatically.

    Your trainer will have some limit as to the resistance it can give in each gear. It might just be that you weren't in a big enough gear.
    Another one - I had assumed that the trainer would adjust the resistance in accordance with changes in the Zwift course (i.e. harder resistance when going up hills). Is this not the case? Or is this only the case in the free ride and race modes?

    The latter, it either adjusts to the gradient or it holds you at a set power, it can't do both at the same time.
  • myideal
    myideal Posts: 231
    JoeK1973 wrote:
    So I got the T2240, had a couple of head scratching sessions trying to hook up Zwift using my Nexus 5 (using Zwift Mobile Link as a bluetooth/Wifi bridge). Basically, Zwift was recognising the T2240 in the 'power meter' and 'cadence' sensors but not as a controllable trainer. Anyway, I thought I'd try my iPad Mini (version 1) and see if it performed any better.

    Success! Recognised as controllable trainer, power, and cadenc estraightaway, and performed flawlessly for the 90 mins I spent finding my way around Watopia. Also did a 20 min FTP test, my legs feel it this morning!

    Does anyone known of a good iPad mini holder / mount for the bike handlebars? Also where to purchase one of those from?

    That's where I bet I am going wrong. Must be an android issue then. I'll try it on the iPad. I assume you are installing the connect app on your iPad and not some version of zwift you already have? Of course that bodes well for the iPad app just working out the box anyway.

    I also have been told bkool habve improved the stability of their iPad app so may try that again and see if that is true as well.
  • JoeK1973
    JoeK1973 Posts: 9
    myideal wrote:
    That's where I bet I am going wrong. Must be an android issue then. I'll try it on the iPad. I assume you are installing the connect app on your iPad and not some version of zwift you already have? Of course that bodes well for the iPad app just working out the box anyway.

    Yep, just the Zwift Mobile Link app from the Apple App Store. I have to filter by 'iphone only' to see it in the store.

    I agree, does seem to be an issue with how Bluetooth is implemented on some android phones. Took me ages and some extra software to get my phone working with my wife's car due to similar problems.
  • JoeK1973
    JoeK1973 Posts: 9
    Another question guys - I'm thinking of getting a bluetooth speed & cadence sensor so I can connect it to Strava for my outdoor rides - do you think I could use this in addition to the TT240 in Zwift, ie 2 devices connected via the iPad to Zwift?

    Cheers

    Joe
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    JoeK1973 wrote:
    Another question guys - I'm thinking of getting a bluetooth speed & cadence sensor so I can connect it to Strava for my outdoor rides - do you think I could use this in addition to the TT240 in Zwift, ie 2 devices connected via the iPad to Zwift?

    Yes, in fact that's a perfectly normal setup to have the trainer, speed, cadence, HR sensors all connected at the same time. For the choice of sensors this is by far the best choice http://www.wiggle.co.uk/wahoo-rpm-speed ... 0-and-ant/
  • nibbsy
    nibbsy Posts: 41
    So another update - I've now switched to using the iPad since the release of the iOS app, and am finding it generally better than when I was using the Macbook and ANT+ dongle. The main difference is that the trainer seems to be adjusting the resistance better in workout mode, so I no longer have to change gear to increase power, the resistance just changes automatically.

    I'm also finding it much easier to reach higher power for longer. Makes me think the ANT+ was making me work harder than I needed to.

    One thing I'm finding is that I'm using the Tacx Flow as a cadence sensor, and it keeps dropping to zero rpm every 10 seconds or so, just for a second, even when I'm pedalling steadily. Has anyone else experienced this?

    I'm also finding that I'm hitting the required power at around 50 rpm, even though Zwift is telling me to go at 90-100 rpm. If I did 90-100 rpm I would be hitting far too much power than necessary for the workout! Has anyone else found this? Have I got something set up wrong or is the Tacx Flow just not that accurate as a cadence sensor?
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    The built in cadence just isn't very good. I would recommend the Wahoo Fitness RPM sensor as it'll work with the iPad. I've been using one for years.
  • nibbsy
    nibbsy Posts: 41
    Thanks, I'll look into getting one of those.

    Am I right in thinking that cadence won't make any difference to my speed? My understanding was that speed is measured by your power and weight, taking into account the gradient of the course, is that right?
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    Nibbsy wrote:
    Thanks, I'll look into getting one of those.

    Am I right in thinking that cadence won't make any difference to my speed? My understanding was that speed is measured by your power and weight, taking into account the gradient of the course, is that right?

    Right. It's for your information and it controls how fast your avatars legs move around, but doesn't affect your speed in the game.

    (Occasionally when restarting riding my RPM has given a figure of something like 35,000, which Zwift tries to animate hilariously, but hasn't made me go any faster!)
  • nibbsy
    nibbsy Posts: 41
    Great, thanks again. I might just disable the cadence counter until I get a proper sensor, as I think it just distracts me.
  • mechanism
    mechanism Posts: 891
    If you find you're hitting the required power at 50rpm maybe you need to do an FTP test :).
  • nibbsy
    nibbsy Posts: 41
    Mechanism wrote:
    If you find you're hitting the required power at 50rpm maybe you need to do an FTP test :).

    Ha, I'm pretty sure I'm not doing 50 rpm when I'm hitting the required power, almost definitely a problem with the cadence sensor.

    I did an FTP test as well though, and that seemed to come in very low (about 1.8 w/kg), which is why I think the ANT+ with the laptop wasn't giving correct power recordings. It seems far more accurate since I switched to bluetooth and iPad. Going to try another FTP test soon.
  • cld531c
    cld531c Posts: 517
    edited January 2017
    first time on this trainer tonight. I calibrated it in the tacx app on my phone to just inside the left hand green zone and it was so tough. Couldn't get out of inner ring which I rarely use on the road. Any of you folks got any idea what's going on? Struggled to maintain 14mph :-). Thanks

    ETA if you are not stupid like me but want a tough workout, set your race bike up as an MTB on resistance :oops:
  • myideal
    myideal Posts: 231
    We're you climbing on Zwift or had the Tacx app resistance set to high? I find it's fairly realistic on feel and peddling on the 11 for me at sustained 270w really does hurt ...However shows how weak I was as already can see my improvement.
  • cld531c
    cld531c Posts: 517
    myideal wrote:
    We're you climbing on Zwift or had the Tacx app resistance set to high? I find it's fairly realistic on feel and peddling on the 11 for me at sustained 270w really does hurt ...However shows how weak I was as already can see my improvement.

    See post just edited! I'm daft! But thanks :-)
  • jonesy99
    jonesy99 Posts: 68
    how are you finding the trainer? imonto my second one as the first felt like the brake was allways on after 20 mins. just got home with new one to find the wrong bolts in the box. also when you calibrate it how quick is your spin down?
  • bigmitch41
    bigmitch41 Posts: 685
    Got the Flow just before Christmas from Halfords, calibrating and updating the firmware all works fine using the Tacx Utility app, pairing to Zwift as a Controllable Trainer via bluetooth has proved impossible so far, its pairing every time as Power and Cadence and im really enjoying Zwift etc, just cant get it to change resistance on the hills!

    Anybody else had this "Controllable Trainer" issue?
    Paracyclist
    @Bigmitch_racing
    2010 Specialized Tricross (commuter)
    2014 Whyte T129-S
    2016 Specialized Tarmac Ultegra Di2
    Big Mitch - YouTube
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    Is the bluetooth light lit on the trainer? As keep in mind that bluetooth is one to one - something else may be hogging the connection such as an app on your phone.
  • bigmitch41
    bigmitch41 Posts: 685
    Hi Mark, Im picking up the cadence and power via Bluetooth ok using the Zwift Mobile link on my phone, running Zwift on my laptop.
    Paracyclist
    @Bigmitch_racing
    2010 Specialized Tricross (commuter)
    2014 Whyte T129-S
    2016 Specialized Tarmac Ultegra Di2
    Big Mitch - YouTube
  • supermurph09
    supermurph09 Posts: 2,471
    BigMitch41 wrote:
    Got the Flow just before Christmas from Halfords, calibrating and updating the firmware all works fine using the Tacx Utility app, pairing to Zwift as a Controllable Trainer via bluetooth has proved impossible so far, its pairing every time as Power and Cadence and im really enjoying Zwift etc, just cant get it to change resistance on the hills!

    Anybody else had this "Controllable Trainer" issue?

    I started a ride the other day and noticed that the resistance wasn't altering, I closed down all the apps on my phone, turned the bluetooth on and off and it worked fine. (I'm using a laptop for Zwift).

    These are the steps I do when getting on the trainer.

    Close all apps on iphone / fire up the laptop with ant+ thing in

    Turn Garmin on, calibrate with stages PM

    Turn Tacx utility app on and calibrate trainer

    Open up Zwift mobile links app

    Load Zwift, pair Stages for power and cadence, controllable trainer to my Tacx

    Ride on!
    Trainer Road Blog: https://hitthesweetspot.home.blog/

    Cycling blog: https://harderfasterlonger.wordpress.com/

    Blog: https://supermurphtt2015.wordpress.com/

    TCTP: https://supermurph.wordpress.com/
  • JoeK1973
    JoeK1973 Posts: 9
    Swapped onto the iOS version just after Xmas (upgraded from my very old iPad Mini 1 to a Mini 2, good framerates) and have been using this with no issues. Pairing via Bluetooth is solid with no dropouts. Like other users here, I fitted a speed and cadence combo sensor (for using with Strava etc) as well as a chest strap heart rate monitor. All Bluetooth (and cheap), all picked up by the iPad with no problems at all.

    Using a Halfords trainer tyre (£10) which seems very hard wearing. Seem to be getting a polished section on the roller where the tyre sits, is there anything wrong with that or is it just how it goes after some use?

    I get some creaking (from the bike I think) when I'm pedalling, is this normal? Or does it mean I'm putting too much lateral pressure on the bike frame or something?

    The resistance motor on the Flow Smart is packaged very tightly against the plastic case, on my one I started getting some loud grating noises which I discovered was caused by the case being slightly askew and rubbing on the motor. I can't see how to take it off and refit it so I've used a single strip of carpet tape to 'tweak' the case slightly to avoid the contact with the motor. No big deal in my view.

    Will come back and report on any further issues as I get them. For now though it's 8/10 from me.
  • supermurph09
    supermurph09 Posts: 2,471
    Supermurph09 wrote:
    BigMitch41 wrote:
    Got the Flow just before Christmas from Halfords, calibrating and updating the firmware all works fine using the Tacx Utility app, pairing to Zwift as a Controllable Trainer via bluetooth has proved impossible so far, its pairing every time as Power and Cadence and im really enjoying Zwift etc, just cant get it to change resistance on the hills!

    Anybody else had this "Controllable Trainer" issue?

    I started a ride the other day and noticed that the resistance wasn't altering, I closed down all the apps on my phone, turned the bluetooth on and off and it worked fine. (I'm using a laptop for Zwift).

    These are the steps I do when getting on the trainer.

    Close all apps on iphone / fire up the laptop with ant+ thing in

    Turn Garmin on, calibrate with stages PM

    Turn Tacx utility app on and calibrate trainer

    Open up Zwift mobile links app

    Load Zwift, pair Stages for power and cadence, controllable trainer to my Tacx

    Ride on!

    Hi, I'd like to update this because of something I noticed last night. After using the tacx utility app to calibrate my turbo I then went onto Zwift and the resistance wasn't changing. I then closed the tacx app and instantly the resistance came on. Something to keep in mind.
    Trainer Road Blog: https://hitthesweetspot.home.blog/

    Cycling blog: https://harderfasterlonger.wordpress.com/

    Blog: https://supermurphtt2015.wordpress.com/

    TCTP: https://supermurph.wordpress.com/
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    Supermurph09 wrote:
    Hi, I'd like to update this because of something I noticed last night. After using the tacx utility app to calibrate my turbo I then went onto Zwift and the resistance wasn't changing. I then closed the tacx app and instantly the resistance came on. Something to keep in mind.

    Yes, the app will take over the resistance if left on. This can also be useful in that you can put your trainer into ERG while still riding in Zwift.
  • supermurph09
    supermurph09 Posts: 2,471
    markhewitt1978 wrote:
    Supermurph09 wrote:
    Hi, I'd like to update this because of something I noticed last night. After using the tacx utility app to calibrate my turbo I then went onto Zwift and the resistance wasn't changing. I then closed the tacx app and instantly the resistance came on. Something to keep in mind.

    Yes, the app will take over the resistance if left on. This can also be useful in that you can put your trainer into ERG while still riding in Zwift.

    Great point, this will help when I'm planning an easy session and not getting sidetracked and smashing myself into pieces instead!
    Trainer Road Blog: https://hitthesweetspot.home.blog/

    Cycling blog: https://harderfasterlonger.wordpress.com/

    Blog: https://supermurphtt2015.wordpress.com/

    TCTP: https://supermurph.wordpress.com/
  • bigmitch41
    bigmitch41 Posts: 685
    Still not managed to connect as a controllable trainer via Bluetooth. Im going to try Zwift IOS on Ipad and see if this works, either that or go the Ant+ route and see if it will connect this way. Seeing as the power and cadence connects fine with Bluetooth its a bit frustrating it wont connect as a controllable trainer too.
    Paracyclist
    @Bigmitch_racing
    2010 Specialized Tricross (commuter)
    2014 Whyte T129-S
    2016 Specialized Tarmac Ultegra Di2
    Big Mitch - YouTube
  • diamonddog
    diamonddog Posts: 3,426
    BigMitch41 wrote:
    Still not managed to connect as a controllable trainer via Bluetooth. Im going to try Zwift IOS on Ipad and see if this works, either that or go the Ant+ route and see if it will connect this way. Seeing as the power and cadence connects fine with Bluetooth its a bit frustrating it wont connect as a controllable trainer too.
    I use iPad and it connects straight away as a controllable trainer via Bluetooth, just make sure your iPad model is compatible with Zwift.

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