Crank Length
doomanic
Posts: 238
One of the things I have noticed with the Nuke is that I'm clouting the cranks on the floor when pedalling through bombholes and the like. The suspension is set up with 20% sag on the front and 30% on the rear. As I am swapping to a 1x chainset sooner or later I have to opportunity to use shorter cranks, either 170 or 165 instead of the 175s that are on the bike now. What are the implications of doing this?
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I doubt you'll notice any difference.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
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10mm in ground clearance is nothing!
Use shorter cranks when sensible (short legs to reduce knee articulation for example, or single speeders who need to spin at 250rpm downhill) not to fix a deficiency in your riding skill.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
On my Spesh I clouted the cranks maybe a couple of times in nearly 500 miles this year. I've done 20 miles on the Nuke and clouted them probably 10 times on a route I ride quite a lot. The Nuke's suspension is much more responsive and the BB is lower, this would indicate to me that it's more likely to happen. I'm not sure why you're calling it a skill deficiency? Perhaps if you could explain where the deficiency lies I'd be more receptive to what looks like a snide remark.0
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As above 10mm is not much, sounds like you need to change the bike setup or the way you ride it unfortunately.0
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doomanic wrote:On my Spesh I clouted the cranks maybe a couple of times in nearly 500 miles this year. I've done 20 miles on the Nuke and clouted them probably 10 times on a route I ride quite a lot. The Nuke's suspension is much more responsive and the BB is lower, this would indicate to me that it's more likely to happen. I'm not sure why you're calling it a skill deficiency? Perhaps if you could explain where the deficiency lies I'd be more receptive to what looks like a snide remark.
I rode a low BB bike the other day, had two early strikes as I got used to it and not again.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
What changes did you make to your style? I'm finding it hard to refrain from pedalling in places where I could pedal on the Spesh.0
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Look at the terrain better, spot were strikes are likely and pause so that as you go over that feature the pedals are level even if you are still pedalling.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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I was doing that by the end but losing speed as a consequence.0
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That's what happens when you stop pedalling.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
Well downhillers use 165mm crank length but for general trail riding I wouldn't go below 170mm. As already said above its more about choosing the lines better on the trails to avoid hitting the pedals on anything.
But sometimes you just cant avoid it, done it plenty of times in peak district wacked pedals on rocks and allsorts.0 -
My obvious statement was replying to your obvious statement.
It's a matter of timing. Obviously.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
My (clearly less than obvious) point is that I'm having to stop pedalling in areas where previously continued pedalling was not an issue. I guess I'll just have to learn to carry more speed before these places.0
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Your point was obvious, and obviously probably yes.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
Pedaling can make a difference, sometimes
with Aaron Gwin
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9B3G2U4O7Kk
...but not always
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kBSXR25jmM00 -
Pumping can help you maintain/increase your speed in places where you don't want to pedal.
It's a pretty easy technique to apply too.
It's amazing how much extra speed/distance you can get from it - as the above Aaron Gwin vid shows._______________
Chris
Current FS: 2017 Nukeproof Mega 275
Current HT: 2017 Nukeproof Scout 275
Kids Carrera Blast Refurb/Upgrade
My Blog - Midlife MTB Mutterings
Previous FS: 2014 Nukeproof Mega TR 26'er0 -
Plus you don't STOP pedalling, you Pause briefly to make sure the cranks are horizontal as you cross a suspect feature, it can take a while to learn to read the ground well.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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Pumping as explained by Mark Weir
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y9cwoQpRUqo0 -
Thanks.0