GP4Seasons make riding harder than GP4000's ?
Comments
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You might well be onto something - I just fitted 25mm GP4S as a winter replacement to my 25mm GP4000s, and thought they looked noticeably narrower. I figured it was just down to the GP4000s being a bit worn making them look different.apreading wrote:I think 25mm GP4S are actually smaller than 25mm GP4000S though - I find the 28mm GP4S are about the same as 25mm GP4000S, and leaving aside the joke above, I really do run GP4000S front and GP4S rear - in 25/28mm versions and they are about the same size.0 -
Yeah, I noticed that too. I run a similar setup, but with a 28mm GP4000 on the front and it comes up about 31mm. It is a pity they don't do the GP4S in 32mm, as that would be a better match (for me).apreading wrote:I think 25mm GP4S are actually smaller than 25mm GP4000S though - I find the 28mm GP4S are about the same as 25mm GP4000S, and leaving aside the joke above, I really do run GP4000S front and GP4S rear - in 25/28mm versions and they are about the same size.0 -
I can well believe the OP's experience despite the nay-sayers. I had a tyre failure on my commute and ended up picking up some Bontrager Hard Case tyres to replace the Gatorskins I was running at the time on my Focus Cayo. Over the next few weeks, I noticed that the average speed on my commute dropped by 1mph. Stuck some Skins back on and the speed returned.
A year later a colleague said he'd just moved to the Bontragers. I told him my story which he dismissed as nonsense. A month later he admitted that he'd just dumped the Bontragers because he was 1mph slower....
Over the years since this experience, there are other examples of the same sort of thing although none as extreme.ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH0 -
apreading wrote:I always ride with GP4000S on front and GP4S on rear and the front wheel turns noticeably fasxter than the rear when I am moving along - is that down to the tyres or is there something wrong with my wheels?
:roll:
For heavens sake do not swap them around or the rear wheel will overtake the front!!!0 -
SmoggySteve wrote:apreading wrote:I always ride with GP4000S on front and GP4S on rear and the front wheel turns noticeably fasxter than the rear when I am moving along - is that down to the tyres or is there something wrong with my wheels? :roll:
For heavens sake do not swap them around or the rear wheel will overtake the front!!!
It won't, it will simply create a time-vortex, which will open up a worm-hole between reality and the 4th dimension0 -
apreading wrote:I really do run GP4000S front and GP4S rear
Why would you do that....?ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH0 -
meanredspider wrote:apreading wrote:I really do run GP4000S front and GP4S rear
Why would you do that....?
Grippy front, harder wearing rear, I would think..0 -
I had a bike supplied with Hard Cases. They lasted one ride before I replaced them. I now use them as turbo tyres. No complaints about 4S though. Keep bashing them, the prices may drop, or imagine how fast I could go.meanredspider wrote:I can well believe the OP's experience despite the nay-sayers. I had a tyre failure on my commute and ended up picking up some Bontrager Hard Case tyres to replace the Gatorskins I was running at the time on my Focus Cayo. Over the next few weeks, I noticed that the average speed on my commute dropped by 1mph. Stuck some Skins back on and the speed returned.
A year later a colleague said he'd just moved to the Bontragers. I told him my story which he dismissed as nonsense. A month later he admitted that he'd just dumped the Bontragers because he was 1mph slower....
Over the years since this experience, there are other examples of the same sort of thing although none as extreme.
The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.0 -
meanredspider wrote:I can well believe the OP's experience despite the nay-sayers. I had a tyre failure on my commute and ended up picking up some Bontrager Hard Case tyres to replace the Gatorskins I was running at the time on my Focus Cayo. Over the next few weeks, I noticed that the average speed on my commute dropped by 1mph. Stuck some Skins back on and the speed returned.
A year later a colleague said he'd just moved to the Bontragers. I told him my story which he dismissed as nonsense. A month later he admitted that he'd just dumped the Bontragers because he was 1mph slower....
Over the years since this experience, there are other examples of the same sort of thing although none as extreme.
I have had those very same tyres (ridden for 5000+ miles) and it did not make any difference to my average speed so your experience (and mine) is very much subjective.0 -
I knew there was a reason I only came 3rd in a race I did on 4seasons this year. I clearly would of won if I had gp4000's on!!0
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Yep. I dont care what tyres I race on. Or wheels for that matter. It makes no difference at our level so I just left the training wheels on.0
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Secteur wrote:AK_jnr wrote:I knew there was a reason I only came 3rd in a race I did on 4seasons this year. I clearly would have won if I had gp4000's on!!
You *raced* on GP4S's?!
Apologies if it was tongue-in-cheek!!
Not sure why you think something like that would be unusual. I've seen the team GB/Olympic Academy riders turn out for midweek crits riding on their Aksium/Gatorskin training wheels.0 -
You *raced* on GP4S's?!
Apologies if it was tongue-in-cheek!!
In other news the poor bloke who lost to me by 2 seconds for an age group title in a triathlon back in August has lodged an appeal on the grounds that I had the arrogance to use Veloflex Records instead of Marathon Plus rubber :twisted:0 -
Well that's what even the manufacturers say, Specialized S-Works tyres are marked with "for racing only" but then the posers who only want to "win the Sunday club run" will no doubt have set aside £600 a year tyre budgets for exactly that purpose.
That's why I've decided to save my 23's for racing only and use 25's and upwards for everything else (as an aside the next one I'd like to try for the feel and comfort is the Challenge Paris-Roubaix 27's but not sure I could get mudguards into the frame as well) :idea:0 -
Imposter wrote:meanredspider wrote:apreading wrote:I really do run GP4000S front and GP4S rear
Why would you do that....?
Grippy front, harder wearing rear, I would think..
^ This
oh - and because I bought a pair of both and couldnt decide which to use... I thought the GP4000S might be more puncture prone than they have been so it was a bit of an experiment that has kinda stuck.
The principal of wanting more grip at the front comes from my mountain biking days though.0 -
apreading wrote:Imposter wrote:meanredspider wrote:apreading wrote:I really do run GP4000S front and GP4S rear
Why would you do that....?
Grippy front, harder wearing rear, I would think..
^ This
oh - and because I bought a pair of both and couldnt decide which to use... I thought the GP4000S might be more puncture prone than they have been so it was a bit of an experiment that has kinda stuck.
The principal of wanting more grip at the front comes from my mountain biking days though.
It makes total sense, at the moment I have to swap my front and rear tyres around otherwise the back wears out long before the front. Front tyres barely seem to wear by comparison to the back.0 -
Secteur wrote:Have always run 25mm, since I started cycling in 2010 when my first bike (Specialized Secteur) had them fitted as standard.
So the only change was the tyre type, not size.
2 x 6W = 12W increased effort, according to the stats.
Who knows?!
But I still maintain I know my body, effort, local roads and conditions so intimately from so many rides that I really dont think the weather or fatigue was a major factor.
Can't get out today, but will ride them again tomorrow and then we might have a better idea.
Keep in mind that the test on that tyre rolling resistance site is done at 40 kph on something that is not road. It's a great site and very informative, but there are limitations.0 -
bobmcstuff wrote:apreading wrote:Imposter wrote:meanredspider wrote:apreading wrote:I really do run GP4000S front and GP4S rear
Why would you do that....?
Grippy front, harder wearing rear, I would think..
^ This
oh - and because I bought a pair of both and couldnt decide which to use... I thought the GP4000S might be more puncture prone than they have been so it was a bit of an experiment that has kinda stuck.
The principal of wanting more grip at the front comes from my mountain biking days though.
It makes total sense, at the moment I have to swap my front and rear tyres around otherwise the back wears out long before the front. Front tyres barely seem to wear by comparison to the back.
Don't go moving a part worn tyre from the rear to the front, you want your best tyre on the front, and you don't really want a squared off tyre there. Let the rear wear out faster, and once it's starting to lose grip or pick up frequent punctures, bin it. Then fit the new tyre on the front wheel and move the worn front to the rear.0 -
keef66 wrote:Don't go moving a part worn tyre from the rear to the front, you want your best tyre on the front, and you don't really want a squared off tyre there. Let the rear wear out faster, and once it's starting to lose grip or pick up frequent punctures, bin it. Then fit the new tyre on the front wheel and move the worn front to the rear.
^^ this0 -
You can’t just take a reported 6 W difference (on Bicycle Rolling Resistance) and double it. BRR tests at 29 km/h (not 40 km/h), which is a reasonable starting point, but you should account for your actual average speed. If you run your front tyre at a lower pressure, you need to read the charts accordingly.
Most importantly, you need to account for the fact that BRR tests with a load of 42.5 kg. Scale linearly for your own weight PER WHEEL. The front wheel carries less weight (but often at a lower pressure, as noted above).
When you’re done with that, the difference still won’t perfectly apply to a real road surface, but it’ll give you a good idea. Rolling resistance will not account for a 1.5 MPH difference but may approach half that in some typical cases. That’s still a big difference, which is why choosing your tyres carefully is so important if you care about going fast or far or efficiently. Tyres matter more than any other bicycle part.0 -
OnYourRight wrote:You can’t just take a reported 6 W difference (on Bicycle Rolling Resistance) and double it. BRR tests at 29 km/h (not 40 km/h), which is a reasonable starting point, but you should account for your actual average speed. If you run your front tyre at a lower pressure, you need to read the charts accordingly.
Most importantly, you need to account for the fact that BRR tests with a load of 42.5 kg. Scale linearly for your own weight PER WHEEL. The front wheel carries less weight (but often at a lower pressure, as noted above).
When you’re done with that, the difference still won’t perfectly apply to a real road surface, but it’ll give you a good idea. Rolling resistance will not account for a 1.5 MPH difference but may approach half that in some typical cases. That’s still a big difference, which is why choosing your tyres carefully is so important if you care about going fast or far or efficiently. Tyres matter more than any other bicycle part.
29 kph it is. My mistake. Don't know where I got 40 kph from.0 -
40 km/h is often used in rolling resistance tests, but BRR uses a speed that’s more relevant to most cyclists riding on their own. Resistance varies linearly with speed, though, so it doesn’t matter as long as you remember to make a correction for your own speed.0
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Makes a differance, why do you think they make some many differant types of tyre if it didn't they would make one tyre we would all use it and end of story, differant riders will get better results from one bit of kit than others its all down to a combintaion of a lot of variables, i have changed tyres and quite honestly have stopped on certain sections to check he brakes were not rubbing it's been that noticeable0
