Quick Release clicking - driving me insane
sharepointalex
Posts: 33
I swear i'm so unlucky with creaking and clicking noises - just as I eliminate one, another one turns up!
Recently fitted some new Mavic Aksiums and i've noticed a clicking sound from the rear when pedalling hard. I've checked all the usual culprits and narrowed it down to the rear QR. I'm using the ones that came with the Mavic wheels. It seems to be the contact area i.e. the face of the QR where it touches the dropouts. A touch of grease/lube seems to fix it temporarily and then it comes back!!
Also I seem to have to have the rear QR so tight in order to get it to stop or reduce - is there a rule of thumb for QR tightness? As it seems far too tight!
Not sure what to try next, thinking of trying a new QR skewer and seeing if that works and if so swapping to an internal cam type maybe.
It's driving me mad as I hate having a noisy bike!
Thoughts?
Cheers
Recently fitted some new Mavic Aksiums and i've noticed a clicking sound from the rear when pedalling hard. I've checked all the usual culprits and narrowed it down to the rear QR. I'm using the ones that came with the Mavic wheels. It seems to be the contact area i.e. the face of the QR where it touches the dropouts. A touch of grease/lube seems to fix it temporarily and then it comes back!!
Also I seem to have to have the rear QR so tight in order to get it to stop or reduce - is there a rule of thumb for QR tightness? As it seems far too tight!
Not sure what to try next, thinking of trying a new QR skewer and seeing if that works and if so swapping to an internal cam type maybe.
It's driving me mad as I hate having a noisy bike!
Thoughts?
Cheers
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Comments
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Give the frame a light sand where the skewer presses up (sorry dont know the proper term). i.e. the bit of the frame that "hooks" into the skewer clamp - it's usually bevelled for grip, but maybe needs roughing up very slightly.
Also try using a thicker grease.
This would be logical as you say greasing gives temporary relief.
A new set of skewers wouldn't cost the earth, I guess, but it's hard to see how they could be at fault assuming they're tight.0 -
The rule of thumb for QR tightness that I've heard is that it should leave a mark on your hand as you are pushing it closed.
So pretty tight. If you can't get it undone at the side of the road when you puncture, then you have done it too tight.
I'd suggest that you buy a good old reliable Shimano internal-cam skewer such as this one:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-ultegra ... l-skewers/
I'm not certain the Mavic design is an external cam, but Sheldon has some chat here about why the internal cam shimano design is better:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html#choices0 -
Secteur wrote:Give the frame a light sand where the skewer presses up (sorry dont know the proper term).
Also try using a thicker grease.
This would be logical as you say greasing gives temporary relief.
A new set of skewers wouldn't cost the earth, I guess, but it's hard to see how they could be at fault assuming they're tight.
Good idea re sanding - will try that. I'm using finish line ceramic grease atm - can you recommend a better one?
I've got an internal cam Shimano skewer here so i might try that and see too.
Maybe I should just try and ignore the clicking but it's driving me bonkers!0 -
The QR should be tight enough to never move.
The QR should be tight enough to leave a whitish mark on your palm when you did it up.
Internal cam QR's have a better leverage ratio and are less prone to friction due to muck on the cam surface, Shimano or Tune to budget! (there are others). Personally I only ever use Shimano (alloy bodied, not cheap steel) as functionally they are the best - cant justify the cost of Tune! 105 or Ultegra to budget (or D-A if you must!)
EDIT: was typing this up while others were posting!Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
sharepointalex wrote:Secteur wrote:Give the frame a light sand where the skewer presses up (sorry dont know the proper term).
Also try using a thicker grease.
This would be logical as you say greasing gives temporary relief.
A new set of skewers wouldn't cost the earth, I guess, but it's hard to see how they could be at fault assuming they're tight.
Good idea re sanding - will try that. I'm using finish line ceramic grease atm - can you recommend a better one?
I've got an internal cam Shimano skewer here so i might try that and see too.
Maybe I should just try and ignore the clicking but it's driving me bonkers!
I use aquaproof paste for this sort of thing. It's thick, tacky and waterproof.
Also you shouldnt have to put up with it - it definitely shouldnt make a noise.0 -
Secteur wrote:sharepointalex wrote:Secteur wrote:Give the frame a light sand where the skewer presses up (sorry dont know the proper term).
Also try using a thicker grease.
This would be logical as you say greasing gives temporary relief.
A new set of skewers wouldn't cost the earth, I guess, but it's hard to see how they could be at fault assuming they're tight.
Good idea re sanding - will try that. I'm using finish line ceramic grease atm - can you recommend a better one?
I've got an internal cam Shimano skewer here so i might try that and see too.
Maybe I should just try and ignore the clicking but it's driving me bonkers!
I use aquaproof paste for this sort of thing. It's thick, tacky and waterproof.
Also you shouldnt have to put up with it - it definitely shouldnt make a noise.
Thanks - will order some of that grease.
Frustratingly the ultegra QR skewers are out of stock everywhere!0 -
Just order some entry level skewers (as long as they're Shimano). The only penalty is weight and they weigh sod all when all is said and done.
Other skewers, no matter what cash you part with, simply don't compare.Ben
Bikes: Donhou DSS4 Custom | Condor Italia RC | Gios Megalite | Dolan Preffisio | Giant Bowery '76
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Ben6899 wrote:Just order some entry level skewers (as long as they're Shimano). The only penalty is weight and they weigh sod all when all is said and done.
Other skewers, no matter what cash you part with, simply don't compare.
Can't seem find any for order anywhere online - think I need 135mm for the rear? That was the size of the last QR skewer I bought.
Unless you can link me to some?
I've found some Shimano ones but they appear to be external cam.0 -
130mm is the standard for rear unless you have disc brakes (it's the dropout spacing rather than the overall length of the skewer)
As far as I know Shimano only do internal cam type QRs. SJS seem to have stock of most things Shimano. Here's a Tiagra / R501 skewer for a couple of quid!
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spares/ ... mm-silver/0 -
or http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shimano-quick ... SwzaJX7qit
Or SJ's have a pair of Claris...Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
keef66 wrote:130mm is the standard for rear unless you have disc brakes (it's the dropout spacing rather than the overall length of the skewer)
As far as I know Shimano only do internal cam type QRs. SJS seem to have stock of most things Shimano. Here's a Tiagra / R501 skewer for a couple of quid!
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spares/ ... mm-silver/
Yes I have disc wheels - do Shimano do one to fit disc wheels?0 -
sharepointalex wrote:keef66 wrote:130mm is the standard for rear unless you have disc brakes (it's the dropout spacing rather than the overall length of the skewer)
As far as I know Shimano only do internal cam type QRs. SJS seem to have stock of most things Shimano. Here's a Tiagra / R501 skewer for a couple of quid!
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spares/ ... mm-silver/
Yes I have disc wheels - do Shimano do one to fit disc wheels?
Wierdly my mate lent me a Shimano internal cam one a while back to use on my rear wheel before I ordered some replacements (went for crappy external cam). I'm sure it was 130mm and it fitted my rear wheel with disc - does that sound right? I know I should be going for 135mm.0 -
sharepointalex wrote:keef66 wrote:130mm is the standard for rear unless you have disc brakes (it's the dropout spacing rather than the overall length of the skewer)
As far as I know Shimano only do internal cam type QRs. SJS seem to have stock of most things Shimano. Here's a Tiagra / R501 skewer for a couple of quid!
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spares/ ... mm-silver/
Yes I have disc wheels - do Shimano do one to fit disc wheels?
Wierdly my mate lent me a Shimano internal cam one a while back to use on my rear wheel before I ordered some replacements (went for crappy external cam). I'm sure it was 130mm and it fitted my rear wheel with disc - does that sound right? I know I should be going for 135mm.0 -
They seem to have them in stock here - http://www.justridingalong.com/shimano- ... ewers.html.
Anyone ordered from these guys before?0 -
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spares/ ... y30t98010/
If the one you borrowed fitted with the nut properly threaded onto the skewer I'd have thought it was a 135mm one0 -
sharepointalex wrote:They seem to have them in stock here - http://www.justridingalong.com/shimano- ... ewers.html.
Anyone ordered from these guys before?
No personal experience, but JRA appear to be an established / reputable bunch according to the many handbuilt wheel threads on here.0 -
keef66 wrote:https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spares/shimano-deore-fht610-quick-release-skewer-rear-135mm-y30t98010/
If the one you borrowed fitted with the nut properly threaded onto the skewer I'd have thought it was a 135mm one
Nice one - the deore ones look good and cheaper. Am I right in saying there is no real difference between those and the ultegra ones? Is it worth forking out the extra for Ultegra?0 -
Ordered the Deore ones - thanks @keef66
Figured a skewer is a skewer and I don't have Ultegra and who wants a mismatched groupset!0 -
sharepointalex wrote:Ordered the Deore ones - thanks @keef66
Figured a skewer is a skewer and I don't have Ultegra and who wants a mismatched groupset!
I've only got the skewers that came with my 9 year old RS10s and the 3 year old R501s on the winter bike to go by. Solid Shimano stuff, lightly greased on installation, they've never squeaked or clicked or given me any cause for concern.
I suspect all you'd get with an Ultegra skewer is a tiny weight saving and the word Ultegra on the lever...0 -
Grease should make no difference on a qr, if its working right it will clamp the dropout to locknut so tight it won't move even if the wheel isnt in the dropout properly, if its not working properly I'd rather hear it than not!
Deore is akin to the lower end road ones, so about 5-6g heavier an end than the better ones (and about another 5-6g heavier than dura-ace or XTR).Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
I've found that lightly greasing the skewer itself, as well as deterring corrosion, does have a silencing effect. Maybe there is some contact between the skewer and the hollow axle and this helps? Not sure about the contact faces of the dropouts, but I've heard several people say they grease those to reduce noises. I've never had to do that0
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The Rookie wrote:Grease should make no difference on a qr,
Sadly completely untrue, and "dry" front dropouts is a very common cause for noise.
The skewers themselves should also be greased, though I don't think is the cause for the OPs noise.0 -
Update on the clicking guys....fitted the Deore QRs and initially the noise had gone! I greased the dropouts with the Finish Line ceramic grease I have at the time of fitting.
I didn't grease the skewer itself I should add so maybe I should do this too?
This morning on the ride in it came back! Most noticeable when pushing hard up a hill on the downward pedal stroke of the right crank arm.
Stopped and tightened the QR bloody tight and it stopped again - put in big ring and beasted it up a hill - no noise!
Thinking of buying some morgan blue aquaproof, removing both QRs, greasing them and refitting and doing them up bloody tight.
What could it be? Slight flex in frame hence the need to have the QRs extremely tight?
I have a worrying feeling it will come back!!0 -
As per my comments above - changing the skewers wont fix this (thanks for proving that though!).
The aquaproof paste and a light sanding is required, as is greasing the skewers (you can use the lithium type grease for that).
If that doesnt work, then the problem isnt the skewers / dropouts.0 -
Secteur wrote:As per my comments above - changing the skewers wont fix this (thanks for proving that though!).
The aquaproof paste and a light sanding is required, as is greasing the skewers (you can use the lithium type grease for that).
If that doesnt work, then the problem isnt the skewers / dropouts.
Ok thanks - i'll get some aquaproof paste ordered today then. I did give the dropouts a light sanding already with some medium sand paper - i'll have another go - worried about sanding the rear derailleur hanger bolts in the process though and don't really want to remove them as those bolt heads are a nightmare for getting rounded off!
I guess the aim is to just get the outside of the dropouts smooth? do the inside of the dropouts i.e. where the QR sits inside need sanding too?0 -
the part you want to sand (and apologies for not knowing the actual name of the part) is ONLY the part where the QR faces up to - i'll try to find a pic via google now0
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the bit where the paint has worn off, and the equivalent bit on your frame
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Secteur wrote:the part you want to sand (and apologies for not knowing the actual name of the part) is ONLY the part where the QR faces up to - i'll try to find a pic via google now
I assume that's the outside of the frame there? can't tell... am I aiming to simply get it smooth? I'm just using a piece of sandpaper atm, medium or fine? Does it really matter? Can't find anything on google about sanding dropouts but it does seem like it would work!0 -
again, where the paint has worn off.
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yes the outsides mainly, but both inside & outside would be good.
You dont want to smooth it with finishing paper - you want to remove any compacted grease / smooth paint finish and to give it a slight rough grippyness to prevent any movement. your aquaproof grease will do the rest. You dont want to be filing away layers of your bike - just a roughening of the top layer where the QR will abut.
As I said before, we are making the assumption this is source of the noise. If it is, then this should work.0
