Compact or semi compact

slowmart
slowmart Posts: 4,516
edited October 2016 in Training, fitness and health
I currently ride with a semi compact and I was considering going back to a compact simply to make the hills easier.

But I'm thinking the extra effort is turning a bigger gear will help build my leg strength, which is the current narrative I'm telling myself as my mate rides a compact and spins up the hills without issue.

Shall I crack on a suck up the extra effort and pain or swap to a compact?
“Give a man a fish and feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and feed him for a lifetime. Teach a man to cycle and he will realize fishing is stupid and boring”

Desmond Tutu

Comments

  • imposter2.0
    imposter2.0 Posts: 12,028
    Not again..
  • poynedexter
    poynedexter Posts: 283
    go compact if you are frequently riding in your lowest gear, and are struggling with cadence on hills. or just fit a different cassette.
  • briantrumpet
    briantrumpet Posts: 20,403
    Imposter wrote:
    Not again..
    Yes. Again. I'd go out for a bike ride, if I were you.
    https://www.facebook.com/unanglaisendiois
  • imposter2.0
    imposter2.0 Posts: 12,028
    briantrumpet wrote:
    Imposter wrote:
    Not again..
    Yes. Again. I'd go out for a bike ride, if I were you.

    I went out earlier. Too tired to go out again. If only my legs were stronger...
  • briantrumpet
    briantrumpet Posts: 20,403
    Imposter wrote:
    briantrumpet wrote:
    Imposter wrote:
    Not again..
    Yes. Again. I'd go out for a bike ride, if I were you.

    I went out earlier. Too tired to go out again. If only my legs were stronger...
    Indeed. If only you could find some advice on BR on how to achieve that.
    https://www.facebook.com/unanglaisendiois
  • philbar72
    philbar72 Posts: 2,229
    well that's easy. it really is up to you. if you can get up most hills on a mid compact, then carry on. To get faster uphill, gearing certainly helps but the biggest key thing is fitness!
  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    Sounds like you need a lower bottom gear. What range cassette do you have? It might be easier to swap out the cassette than change the chain rings.
    WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
    Find me on Strava
  • slowmart
    slowmart Posts: 4,516
    It really was a question of applying more effort up hill in a bigger gear or climbing with less effort but a higher cadance

    Ive got a weekend in the lakes with my brother in law and there is always a competitive edge for climbing. Other then that its zone 2 rides with one threshold ride a week.
    “Give a man a fish and feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and feed him for a lifetime. Teach a man to cycle and he will realize fishing is stupid and boring”

    Desmond Tutu
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    Imposter wrote:
    Not again..

    I'm hoping that the marketing guys develop a 51/35 so we can discuss this some more

    After the "semi", they could call it the "slightly more flaccid" compact.

    It would somehow chime with the "rolled up socks down my shorts" vibe of the semi compact...
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • joe2008
    joe2008 Posts: 1,531
    Slowmart wrote:
    It really was a question of applying more effort up hill in a bigger gear or climbing with less effort but a higher cadance

    The effort should be the same surely.

    FWIW, I ride on Exmoor, terrain like the lakes I guess, and I've tried everything: compact, semi, standard, 53 x 42, but I've decided that 46 x 34 with an 11t cassette, and large sprocket to suit the season, is the most efficient gearing for me on this terrain.

    46x11 is a bigger gear than Merckx's 52x13, but the 46 keeps me out of the 34 for much longer periods than a 50/52 would.
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    joe2008 wrote:
    Slowmart wrote:
    It really was a question of applying more effort up hill in a bigger gear or climbing with less effort but a higher cadance

    The effort should be the same surely.

    The work is the same but the pedal force (or torque) required is different - I guess that's what's meant by "effort" here
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • joe2008
    joe2008 Posts: 1,531
    meanredspider wrote:
    joe2008 wrote:
    Slowmart wrote:
    It really was a question of applying more effort up hill in a bigger gear or climbing with less effort but a higher cadance

    The effort should be the same surely.

    The work is the same but the pedal force (or torque) required is different - I guess that's what's meant by "effort" here

    Yeah, I reckon, fair enough.

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