Beginners Mileage
Comments
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Chrisj22 wrote:I attempted Strava the other day, had to put my phone down my nether regions as I am pocketless, but it didn't record my ride sadly
I have a jacket on order which has pockets so that should help.
So my fourth ride and I did 15 miles this evening. My legs are shattered.
My neck and knees really hurt when I'm riding, any tips?
Obviously it does depend to some degree on whether the bike fits properly. If you can get someone who knows a bit about bike fitting to assess your position this would help. You can pay for a professional fitting but these vary in quality and can cost ++.
Assuming (again) that your saddle is correctly positioned relative to the pedals. knees aching suggests you may be turning a bigger gear than is ideal. Try to aim for a pedalling speed (aka cadence) of 80 rpm+
The more you ride, the more the muscles and joints will adapt and aches will be much improved. Took me years to cycle 80+ miles without neck ache.FFS! Harden up and grow a pair
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Vysie wrote:I'm new as I've said but chances are your bike ain't fitting you right, saddle cleats could all be wrong there's plenty of vids on that site,
But maybe you just over did it take it slow it will happen but you do need time to build muscle up and don't forget to rest to and don't over do it, as for strava it happens lol just press record then press start and away you go
I was going to say, painful knees sounds like cleats, I've had that and it's bad. I get neck pain from being in an unnatural position and I'm hoping it will go away in time...0 -
Normally I'd say that 7 miles isn't much but... Still, even if you've only done 5 miles you've still got those muscles working. And that means that you will inevitably do better later!
I personally have another problem with long distances. I am very easily bored :? Now this is something hard to train.0 -
I think it's my saddle you know, I don't think it's high enough, so I'm going to increase the height and try again.
See if the knees and neck ease up.0 -
Chris it is great to hear about people like you taking up the sport, well done. The first thing I would suggest is getting fitted to the bike (assuming you have the right size bike to start with!) which could be the source of aches and pains.
If you are within reach of the M6 junctions 17/18 I'm not far from there and would be willing to set you up properly to minimise fit as being a cause of your aches and pains. I charge a bottle of red ;-)
Obviously you are going to ache even if your bike fits perfectly as your body comes to terms with the new demands being put upon it. In daddy terms, do you remember when you first carried one of your kids on your shoulders, you know, where you hold onto a leg either side of your ears and they either pull your hair or put a sharp little finger in your eye? I remember my neck aching just a bit after that! It is the same thing - adaptation. The more you do something the more used to it your body will get and if you can couple it to a bit of flexibility training you will adapt quicker.
The main thing once starting out is consistency. The weather is about to change which will make it more challenging for you to keep consistency and ride enough to see the gains. Perhaps look to invest in some winter gear as being cold and wet out on the road is a sure way to sap morale and lead to you leaving the bike in the garage with the perfect excuse...
Depending on underlying fitness levels and your genetic make up you will probably see huge gains over the first few months. If you think of a graph where the line rises steeply and eventually starts to level out and go horizontal, that is your performance improvement plot - at first you see huge gains and they are relatively easy to find, but eventually you will peak (if you train seriously) and the gains become harder and harder to eek out. So enjoy your time 'on the up' as it is very motivational to achieve these gains and reach self set targets on the way. Think how you said your mate rode 70 miles in 4 hours as though it was something unobtainable - we all thought that at your stage but many can achieve that after a while and think nothing of it. Non cyclists cannot believe the mileage and many think you are making it up and ask in 'how many days' you did that distance rather than how many hours!
I started cycling again about 2010 after many years away. I'd always been fit having been an Army PTI, runner, then rower and adaptation didn't take too long, but I was 42 when I took in the sport, so no spring chicken. First ride was 20 miles and I was aching like hell. Stuck with it though and soon built up to 30+. Within 2 months I'd done a 50 and then started to get a little bit quicker at all distances up to that. It was all just getting out there and putting the miles in.
Was over the moon to do 65, then break the 75 mile barrier and within a year I'd done my first century. If you can do 75 miles, 100 isn't really that much harder, all you have to do is ensure you eat and drink enough.
Two years later I'd joined a club and started time trialling. I was club TT champion 2 years on the trot which I couldn't quite believe! Work gets in the way now, so I TT for pleasure every now and again and just enjoy riding my road bike when I get time off work. Biggest ride I've done is 170 miles, biggest climb Mt Teide on Tenerife (about 8000' of climbing in one hill!) and just popping out to do 100 miles is now no great issue (other than finding the time!)
It is all about putting the miles in to get the improvements so anything you can do to achieve that will be beneficial. Like I said, the winter weather will make this harder, so think ahead for that. Finding a group whom yo can ride with once you can manage their mileage is also motivational. You will also make some great friends and add another dimension to your cycling - I have about half a dozen different groups that I can ride with regularly, just about ever day of the week has a group ride that I can join if I am off work and available. These can be great, especially if you have to push yourself a little harder to stay with them.
Overall though, ensure you keep the enjoyment factor. I lost a bit of that trying to do too much time trialling a few years ago and my riding suffered - work was too busy to allow me the time but I kept snatching every opportunity to race and ended up racing every time I got on a bike, which of course meant my performances were getting worse rather than better as I got more and more fatigued over the summer. I realised I wasn't enjoying it and asked myself why I was doing it! The conclusion was to stop trying to race every event and get out on my road bike in the hills when I had a nice day and an opportunity for a cafe stop in the Peak District and a big chunk of cake! Worked wonders....! ;-)
So, keep up the effort, you know it will be worth it, especially regarding your health and fitness and that is a great way to ensure you get to be a grand daddy at some stage, which is one of the best things you can do for your kids...
PP0 -
Pilot Pete wrote:Chris it is great to hear about people like you taking up the sport, well done. The first thing I would suggest is getting fitted to the bike (assuming you have the right size bike to start with!) which could be the source of aches and pains.
If you are within reach of the M6 junctions 17/18 I'm not far from there and would be willing to set you up properly to minimise fit as being a cause of your aches and pains. I charge a bottle of red ;-)
Obviously you are going to ache even if your bike fits perfectly as your body comes to terms with the new demands being put upon it. In daddy terms, do you remember when you first carried one of your kids on your shoulders, you know, where you hold onto a leg either side of your ears and they either pull your hair or put a sharp little finger in your eye? I remember my neck aching just a bit after that! It is the same thing - adaptation. The more you do something the more used to it your body will get and if you can couple it to a bit of flexibility training you will adapt quicker.
The main thing once starting out is consistency. The weather is about to change which will make it more challenging for you to keep consistency and ride enough to see the gains. Perhaps look to invest in some winter gear as being cold and wet out on the road is a sure way to sap morale and lead to you leaving the bike in the garage with the perfect excuse...
Depending on underlying fitness levels and your genetic make up you will probably see huge gains over the first few months. If you think of a graph where the line rises steeply and eventually starts to level out and go horizontal, that is your performance improvement plot - at first you see huge gains and they are relatively easy to find, but eventually you will peak (if you train seriously) and the gains become harder and harder to eek out. So enjoy your time 'on the up' as it is very motivational to achieve these gains and reach self set targets on the way. Think how you said your mate rode 70 miles in 4 hours as though it was something unobtainable - we all thought that at your stage but many can achieve that after a while and think nothing of it. Non cyclists cannot believe the mileage and many think you are making it up and ask in 'how many days' you did that distance rather than how many hours!
I started cycling again about 2010 after many years away. I'd always been fit having been an Army PTI, runner, then rower and adaptation didn't take too long, but I was 42 when I took in the sport, so no spring chicken. First ride was 20 miles and I was aching like hell. Stuck with it though and soon built up to 30+. Within 2 months I'd done a 50 and then started to get a little bit quicker at all distances up to that. It was all just getting out there and putting the miles in.
Was over the moon to do 65, then break the 75 mile barrier and within a year I'd done my first century. If you can do 75 miles, 100 isn't really that much harder, all you have to do is ensure you eat and drink enough.
Two years later I'd joined a club and started time trialling. I was club TT champion 2 years on the trot which I couldn't quite believe! Work gets in the way now, so I TT for pleasure every now and again and just enjoy riding my road bike when I get time off work. Biggest ride I've done is 170 miles, biggest climb Mt Teide on Tenerife (about 8000' of climbing in one hill!) and just popping out to do 100 miles is now no great issue (other than finding the time!)
It is all about putting the miles in to get the improvements so anything you can do to achieve that will be beneficial. Like I said, the winter weather will make this harder, so think ahead for that. Finding a group whom yo can ride with once you can manage their mileage is also motivational. You will also make some great friends and add another dimension to your cycling - I have about half a dozen different groups that I can ride with regularly, just about ever day of the week has a group ride that I can join if I am off work and available. These can be great, especially if you have to push yourself a little harder to stay with them.
Overall though, ensure you keep the enjoyment factor. I lost a bit of that trying to do too much time trialling a few years ago and my riding suffered - work was too busy to allow me the time but I kept snatching every opportunity to race and ended up racing every time I got on a bike, which of course meant my performances were getting worse rather than better as I got more and more fatigued over the summer. I realised I wasn't enjoying it and asked myself why I was doing it! The conclusion was to stop trying to race every event and get out on my road bike in the hills when I had a nice day and an opportunity for a cafe stop in the Peak District and a big chunk of cake! Worked wonders....! ;-)
So, keep up the effort, you know it will be worth it, especially regarding your health and fitness and that is a great way to ensure you get to be a grand daddy at some stage, which is one of the best things you can do for your kids...
PP
Thanks for taking the time to type that out, I really appreciate it.
Is that junction towards Congleton way? I'm in Lancashire, but if I'm set to pass through with work I could chuck the bike in the car and meet you.
I've started to get prepped for winter, bought a winter jacket, the leggings etc, and I know when it's cold, wet and dark it's easy to fold and stick the tele on, but I'm determined to try and squeeze some rides out when I can.
I don't think I'll ever be super anal with it, my life is hectic, between work and having my two kids on set days etc, it's tough, but I'll try my hardest that's for sure.
Four rides in so far; first three were 5 milers, fourth one was 14.45 miles. Felt tired doing it, but surprisingly, fine the next day.
I'm not a time guy, I prefer distance, so it's all about increasing distance for me. A century is my aim 0 -
You hit the nail on the head Chris, start town for Stage 3 of this year's Tour of Britain! And to quote the organisers Sweetspot "the best stage ever of the Tour of Britain" in terms of crowds, support events etc.
PM me and I'll give you my number to perhaps arrange something when we are both available.
Cheers
PP0 -
Will do Pete, cheers
Cheeky 5.5 miles today, pushed for time so couldn't give much more. Increased saddle height by a fair bit and it felt like a totally different bike today, it was superb. All felt great. Confidence much improved with the cleats too, stopping fairly comfortably and setting off etc.
One of those isn't it, the more you do it, the better you'll become.
Next items I need to buy are:
- Drink holder
- Bottle for drink holder
- Suitable backpack/rucksack for longer journeys
- Pump
- Look into how to keep gears oiled and clean etc and buy the products.
- Sunglasses
I'll add more when I come to it 0 -
Good to follow this thread Chris.
I bought my first bike about 3 weeks ago and have been doing around 10-14 miles so far as I build up my cycling fitness (run & play football but this is obviously more taxing on the legs!).
I've been the same - buying lots of extras but now think I've got the main stuff (puncture kits, multi tools, bottle, bottle holder, bib shorts, top, gloves, glasses etc etc etc!0 -
Chris
few things I have appreciated in my learning curve
Bottle - spend a bit more and get a Camelbak bottle. It has a lockable valve and, when unlocked, won't dispense unless you're drinking from it. My other bottle (when full) sprays my legs with electrolyte, unless you push the top down (and up) with your teeth every time.
Backpack/rucksack can be a pain in the back (literally). Get a cycling top with three back pockets and one zipped one for your house key; its amazing how much stuff you can cram into them. Add a saddle bag, which fits nicely under the saddle, for your spare inner tubes, multi tool and tyre levers.
Pump - many varieties that can fit onto your bike. Look for the good reviews. Track pump for home - one you stand on and with a gauge on it
Cleaning stuff - WD40 chain cleaner is amazing. Spray your chain and cassette once and leave. Spray again and all the sh!t drops off. Just cover the frame and ground with old newspapers first. Oil chain with wet or dry lube depending on conditions.
Sunglasses- You definitely need these at any time. When you're doing a half reasonable speed anywhere and a bee/wasp/giant fly hits you in the face, it effing hurts and you know what permanent damage it could have done to your eyes. Do not buy any without being able to try them on. Recently purchased Oakley Flak Jackets XL and thought I was being clever by looking on the internet. Only when I tried them on in a Duty Free shop realised I needed the XL not the ordinary FJ's - better all round cover and, most important, you have to look good ;-) Yes, I know I could have tried them on then bought on the net, but it was £5-10 and I couldn't be bothered to wait. If you really want to splash out, you can get photochromic lenses.
At some time, you will want a decent rain top (I bought the Decathlon one) that will fit into the back pocket. Fingerless gloves with good padding, a snood for cold days, arm warmers (that you can easily take off during the ride).
When you decide to go with clipped 'clipless' shoes, ask again. I went with the first pair I was given. Only, after a year I picked my girlfriend's shoes up and was shocked by the light weight (715g v 460g). Changed and what a difference to my ride - felt like the upgrade from wellies to trainers.
Keep it going - just back from Corsica where one ride had an 11 mile hill built in. Lunch was at the top so all well and good (see L'Ospedale - Porto Vecchio)0 -
godders9 wrote:Good to follow this thread Chris.
I bought my first bike about 3 weeks ago and have been doing around 10-14 miles so far as I build up my cycling fitness (run & play football but this is obviously more taxing on the legs!).
I've been the same - buying lots of extras but now think I've got the main stuff (puncture kits, multi tools, bottle, bottle holder, bib shorts, top, gloves, glasses etc etc etc!
Thanks mate.
Never stops does it!0 -
Jerry185 wrote:Chris
few things I have appreciated in my learning curve
Bottle - spend a bit more and get a Camelbak bottle. It has a lockable valve and, when unlocked, won't dispense unless you're drinking from it. My other bottle (when full) sprays my legs with electrolyte, unless you push the top down (and up) with your teeth every time.
Backpack/rucksack can be a pain in the back (literally). Get a cycling top with three back pockets and one zipped one for your house key; its amazing how much stuff you can cram into them. Add a saddle bag, which fits nicely under the saddle, for your spare inner tubes, multi tool and tyre levers.
Pump - many varieties that can fit onto your bike. Look for the good reviews. Track pump for home - one you stand on and with a gauge on it
Cleaning stuff - WD40 chain cleaner is amazing. Spray your chain and cassette once and leave. Spray again and all the sh!t drops off. Just cover the frame and ground with old newspapers first. Oil chain with wet or dry lube depending on conditions.
Sunglasses- You definitely need these at any time. When you're doing a half reasonable speed anywhere and a bee/wasp/giant fly hits you in the face, it effing hurts and you know what permanent damage it could have done to your eyes. Do not buy any without being able to try them on. Recently purchased Oakley Flak Jackets XL and thought I was being clever by looking on the internet. Only when I tried them on in a Duty Free shop realised I needed the XL not the ordinary FJ's - better all round cover and, most important, you have to look good ;-) Yes, I know I could have tried them on then bought on the net, but it was £5-10 and I couldn't be bothered to wait. If you really want to splash out, you can get photochromic lenses.
At some time, you will want a decent rain top (I bought the Decathlon one) that will fit into the back pocket. Fingerless gloves with good padding, a snood for cold days, arm warmers (that you can easily take off during the ride).
When you decide to go with clipped 'clipless' shoes, ask again. I went with the first pair I was given. Only, after a year I picked my girlfriend's shoes up and was shocked by the light weight (715g v 460g). Changed and what a difference to my ride - felt like the upgrade from wellies to trainers.
Keep it going - just back from Corsica where one ride had an 11 mile hill built in. Lunch was at the top so all well and good (see L'Ospedale - Porto Vecchio)
Hey, thanks for this Jerry!
Seems I've got a lot to buy over the coming months. Haven't looked into puncture kit etc yet, really need to as I go further afield.0 -
10.2 miles late afternoon, really enjoyed it.
Had to stop-start quite a few times as I went out at 4pm when it was rush hour, and the route had several traffic lights.
I'm not bothered about stops, I'm new to this, and I'm not on a time-trial or anything, distance is key for me.
I think when I attack a 20 miler I will stop after 10 miles for 5 minutes to recharge.0 -
Good move Chris, give yourself a reward after a certain distance. You might need an energy boost and/or your backside will start complaining.
Personal choice but I don't bother with puncture repair kits. When you get a flat you just want to replace and get on. Going to regret saying this, but I've had one flat in 3000 miles riding.
See you've already started to notice that this is a costly business, but if you want to ride well and easy, you have to train hard. Then you think; 'why am I training with this duff kit when I could spend a little and make it easier.' So it begins0 -
Jerry185 wrote:Good move Chris, give yourself a reward after a certain distance. You might need an energy boost and/or your backside will start complaining.
Personal choice but I don't bother with puncture repair kits. When you get a flat you just want to replace and get on. Going to regret saying this, but I've had one flat in 3000 miles riding.
See you've already started to notice that this is a costly business, but if you want to ride well and easy, you have to train hard. Then you think; 'why am I training with this duff kit when I could spend a little and make it easier.' So it begins
I've found this already, started 27 days ago!!!! Thought my spesh would see me fine and do t need nothing how wrong I find myself daily dribbling over carbon and new bits and bobs, I've set myself a goal once I hit 1000miles I will treat myself to a carbon bike as a reward I'm up to 299miles so far.0 -
Some random inputs based on reading replies and my own journey from fat to fit(ter):
Camelback bottle - agree with this. I hate the ones you have to open with your teeth; the CB bottle works brilliantly, especially if you are breathing hard and don't have time to close your mouth to open and suck on the valve. I was warned off of them by my LBS due to having to keep the silicone valve clean to prevent mould. I just make sure it is clean after every use.
Clothing and equipment - I started cheap and cheerful, including Decathlon and Muddy Fox. For the price, they did what I needed them to do - they enabled me to get out and do it (and are still in use now). Now that I am a bit more established and believe i will stick at it, I am looking at higher level stuff, but if it weren't for the cheap stuff I wouldn't be where I am now.
Carrying stuff - I use a bottle cage tool holder, which takes everything I need including a small pump. This means I have no saddle bag and have only smaller, flatter things in my jersey pockets (phone, key, wallet). You do lose a bottle position but so far one bottle has been enough for my rides.
Glasses - sunglasses; yes. But also clear ones. Have a look at Bollé safety glasses - you can get them really cheap in clear or tinted or even with a graduated sun-strip at the top. I wear these when it is not sunny.
Distances - I have a thing that I don't like to stop when I go for a ride on my own. Dunno why, but I just don't. I drink on the move and for a longer ride will nibble a Jelly Baby or two for energy. I don't go longer than a couple of hours yet, nor in a group ride, so I may have to revise this approach as/when this changes.
Motivation - this is the biggest thing for me. Looking at the weather, the time, the beer in the fridge and still deciding to go out. I established a routine whereby I would go out on certain days and always have a free day between rides to recover. I would also plan where I was going on each day, so that when it was time to go out, I just went, knowing where I was going and how long I'd be out. It didn't take long before I was looking forward to getting out, rather than dreading it, especially when the weight started coming off and the Strava PRs started falling. Now, if I have to miss a ride for any reason, I can't wait to get out the next time.
Rides - I use Google Maps to plan routes, but then do it from memory when I go out. I also look for other opportunities to ride places: sometimes I take a bike to work on the car and ride home; next month my family is going to my parents' for a gathering and I plan to ride there whilst the wife and kids go in the car (it's about 35 miles away - the bike will go on the car for the return journey because, well, Sunday lunch and wine).
Sportives - have a look to see if there are any sportives nearby; I recently did a 32 mile one with UK Cycling Events which was really good. Riding with others makes it social as well as exercise and whilst you don't have to ride together, at least the before and after gatherings give you a chance to see what others are doing, chat, question and feel 'part of it'.
I am by no means a 'serious' cyclist now, but I am an enthusiastic hobbyist with an eye on being more serious. I'm not planning on racing but would like to think that a century ride would be possible, leading to further thoughts of longer sportives and even routes abroad.Cube Reaction GTC Pro 29 for the lumpy stuff
Cannondale Synapse alloy with 'guards for the winter roads
Fuji Altamira 2.7 for the summer roads
Trek 830 Mountain Track frame turned into a gravel bike - for anywhere & everywhere0 -
seriously, get one soon - and make sure it isn't dried out - I had that happen to me 10 miles from home, blowing a gale, rain - thorn punctures x2 (I had 1 tube and a PRK but the glue had dried into a little snotty limp but without the adhesive properties of snot) - no phone signal...Chrisj22 wrote:
Seems I've got a lot to buy over the coeming months. Haven't looked into puncture kit etc yet, really need to as I go further afield.
Walk of shame - thankfully wearing MTB shoes so not walking like a ruptured duck0 -
There's some fantastic comments and tips on this thread!
I'm in the process of looking for a half decent winter road bike after spending far to many years out of the saddle. My main aim is to get fitter but I'm also looking to do the Manchester to Blackpool bike ride in 2017 so I'm loving all the advice given to us newbies.
Thanks guys.0 -
Vysie wrote:Jerry185 wrote:Good move Chris, give yourself a reward after a certain distance. You might need an energy boost and/or your backside will start complaining.
Personal choice but I don't bother with puncture repair kits. When you get a flat you just want to replace and get on. Going to regret saying this, but I've had one flat in 3000 miles riding.
See you've already started to notice that this is a costly business, but if you want to ride well and easy, you have to train hard. Then you think; 'why am I training with this duff kit when I could spend a little and make it easier.' So it begins
I've found this already, started 27 days ago!!!! Thought my spesh would see me fine and do t need nothing how wrong I find myself daily dribbling over carbon and new bits and bobs, I've set myself a goal once I hit 1000miles I will treat myself to a carbon bike as a reward I'm up to 299miles so far.
Vysie: before you splash out on a carbon, take stock of what your Specialized is offering
These days the difference between carbon and 'lowly' aluminium has disappeared at certain types. You can now get very cheap carbon bikes, which may have a rubbish set-up, or a good allu bike with a great set up.
Mine is a B'Twin 540SE, allu frame with carbon forks, Shimano 105 gears and Mavic Aksium wheels all on a bike weighing less than 10 kilos. The cost of those parts alone would come to more than I paid for the bike, yet the more I have done on the bike, I'm realising my drooling over the carbon goal might be wasted money; i.e. its not the bike, it's the engine.
Yes, I could really upgrade with Ultegra gears, full carbon frame and better wheels for an 8kg bike, but that would cost £2500 - to save what, 15 seconds up a two mile hill?0 -
Chrisj22 wrote:10.2 miles late afternoon, really enjoyed it.
Had to stop-start quite a few times as I went out at 4pm when it was rush hour, and the route had several traffic lights.
I'm not bothered about stops, I'm new to this, and I'm not on a time-trial or anything, distance is key for me.
I think when I attack a 20 miler I will stop after 10 miles for 5 minutes to recharge.
Great attitude, just get out and enjoy it. Once you start building the mileage the fitness will improve too. It might be beneficial to use Strava to see where you are improving over time. It'll also push you on to get fitter. Then you'll get hooked haha!0 -
Jerry185 wrote:Good move Chris, give yourself a reward after a certain distance. You might need an energy boost and/or your backside will start complaining.
Personal choice but I don't bother with puncture repair kits. When you get a flat you just want to replace and get on. Going to regret saying this, but I've had one flat in 3000 miles riding.
See you've already started to notice that this is a costly business, but if you want to ride well and easy, you have to train hard. Then you think; 'why am I training with this duff kit when I could spend a little and make it easier.' So it begins
How do you replace it if you get a flat whilst on the road?
I'm probably being really thick, haha.0 -
figbat wrote:Some random inputs based on reading replies and my own journey from fat to fit(ter):
Camelback bottle - agree with this. I hate the ones you have to open with your teeth; the CB bottle works brilliantly, especially if you are breathing hard and don't have time to close your mouth to open and suck on the valve. I was warned off of them by my LBS due to having to keep the silicone valve clean to prevent mould. I just make sure it is clean after every use.
Clothing and equipment - I started cheap and cheerful, including Decathlon and Muddy Fox. For the price, they did what I needed them to do - they enabled me to get out and do it (and are still in use now). Now that I am a bit more established and believe i will stick at it, I am looking at higher level stuff, but if it weren't for the cheap stuff I wouldn't be where I am now.
Carrying stuff - I use a bottle cage tool holder, which takes everything I need including a small pump. This means I have no saddle bag and have only smaller, flatter things in my jersey pockets (phone, key, wallet). You do lose a bottle position but so far one bottle has been enough for my rides.
Glasses - sunglasses; yes. But also clear ones. Have a look at Bollé safety glasses - you can get them really cheap in clear or tinted or even with a graduated sun-strip at the top. I wear these when it is not sunny.
Distances - I have a thing that I don't like to stop when I go for a ride on my own. Dunno why, but I just don't. I drink on the move and for a longer ride will nibble a Jelly Baby or two for energy. I don't go longer than a couple of hours yet, nor in a group ride, so I may have to revise this approach as/when this changes.
Motivation - this is the biggest thing for me. Looking at the weather, the time, the beer in the fridge and still deciding to go out. I established a routine whereby I would go out on certain days and always have a free day between rides to recover. I would also plan where I was going on each day, so that when it was time to go out, I just went, knowing where I was going and how long I'd be out. It didn't take long before I was looking forward to getting out, rather than dreading it, especially when the weight started coming off and the Strava PRs started falling. Now, if I have to miss a ride for any reason, I can't wait to get out the next time.
Rides - I use Google Maps to plan routes, but then do it from memory when I go out. I also look for other opportunities to ride places: sometimes I take a bike to work on the car and ride home; next month my family is going to my parents' for a gathering and I plan to ride there whilst the wife and kids go in the car (it's about 35 miles away - the bike will go on the car for the return journey because, well, Sunday lunch and wine).
Sportives - have a look to see if there are any sportives nearby; I recently did a 32 mile one with UK Cycling Events which was really good. Riding with others makes it social as well as exercise and whilst you don't have to ride together, at least the before and after gatherings give you a chance to see what others are doing, chat, question and feel 'part of it'.
I am by no means a 'serious' cyclist now, but I am an enthusiastic hobbyist with an eye on being more serious. I'm not planning on racing but would like to think that a century ride would be possible, leading to further thoughts of longer sportives and even routes abroad.
Great advice, thanks.
There's some superb advice on here, and it seems cyclists are nice folk 0 -
SpongeArtist wrote:Chrisj22 wrote:10.2 miles late afternoon, really enjoyed it.
Had to stop-start quite a few times as I went out at 4pm when it was rush hour, and the route had several traffic lights.
I'm not bothered about stops, I'm new to this, and I'm not on a time-trial or anything, distance is key for me.
I think when I attack a 20 miler I will stop after 10 miles for 5 minutes to recharge.
Great attitude, just get out and enjoy it. Once you start building the mileage the fitness will improve too. It might be beneficial to use Strava to see where you are improving over time. It'll also push you on to get fitter. Then you'll get hooked haha!
Thanks man. This leads me to tonights ramblings....
I use an app called 'Footpath' which I plan my route on, but tonight's went off plan, I chose a crap route, too many lights, stop/starting too much, roads weren't ideal for cyclists, too many roundabouts etc - I need to look for a better one.
I even fell off tonight and it hurt. Neck is so sore when I'm riding too, it's either I'm set up wrong or it's 'newbie' stuff?
So yeah, it wasn't a pleasant ride, felt like canning it halfway - well, I say halfway, there was no 'way', I ad-libbed, ha.
Anyway, ended up doing 13.3 miles in just over an hour, and that's with stops.
I've got to give myself some credit, it's only my fifth ride or something, but man, isn't it shit when it just doesn't feel right?
I really need a programme of some sort, I thrive on structure, so I need to look at gradually increasing mileage whilst making it fun.
It's also a head wreck reading all the stuff I need etc - it's confusing.
Onwards and upwards. Going to rest three days now, go on Sunday, perhaps a little 5 miler to dust the cobwebs off.0 -
Chris
Use your local knowledge to plan a ride that will be stop/trouble-free or, if poss, bike in a car to somewhere you can explore better. If you get Strava (no gadget needed yet) you can plan a route which will show the mileage and the gradients of hills.
Or ride with a mate/cycling club.
The advice on here, so far, pretty much agrees on the kit you may need, but you can build it up slowly.
One kit you should always have is a spare inner tube, tyre levers, pump and a phone. Ten miles from home and you get a flat - you're goosed without the above and it will be a long walk home
Change a flat? Wheel off (assuming you have quick release levers, otherwise spanner required), use tyre levers to prise off the tyre (try not to pinch the inner tube) on one side. Remover the old inner tube . Partially inflate the new inner tube and insert around the wheel
Thread the valve through the hole first and secure with the locking ring. You should be able to replace the tyre mostly with your hands. The last few bits will need the tyre levers again and this is where its crucial not to pinch the inner tube whilst doing so.
Once in, you'll appreciate why you bought a good mini pump and off you go. You might want to keep the old inner and repair at home.
Oh, and no such thing as a stupid question, mate, only stupid people who think they're above such things.
If you have spare time on your computer, I would thoroughly recommend watching the lads on the Global Cycling Network - loads of 'how to' videos. Down to earth, informative, slightly comical and concise0 -
Jerry185 wrote:Chris
Use your local knowledge to plan a ride that will be stop/trouble-free or, if poss, bike in a car to somewhere you can explore better. If you get Strava (no gadget needed yet) you can plan a route which will show the mileage and the gradients of hills.
Or ride with a mate/cycling club.
The advice on here, so far, pretty much agrees on the kit you may need, but you can build it up slowly.
One kit you should always have is a spare inner tube, tyre levers, pump and a phone. Ten miles from home and you get a flat - you're goosed without the above and it will be a long walk home
Change a flat? Wheel off (assuming you have quick release levers, otherwise spanner required), use tyre levers to prise off the tyre (try not to pinch the inner tube) on one side. Remover the old inner tube . Partially inflate the new inner tube and insert around the wheel
Thread the valve through the hole first and secure with the locking ring. You should be able to replace the tyre mostly with your hands. The last few bits will need the tyre levers again and this is where its crucial not to pinch the inner tube whilst doing so.
Once in, you'll appreciate why you bought a good mini pump and off you go. You might want to keep the old inner and repair at home.
Oh, and no such thing as a stupid question, mate, only stupid people who think they're above such things.
If you have spare time on your computer, I would thoroughly recommend watching the lads on the Global Cycling Network - loads of 'how to' videos. Down to earth, informative, slightly comical and concise
Excellent, thanks mate.
It's been on my mind to get an inner tube, I'll check the wheel size and get some ordered. Will get a saddle bag too, so I can fit the inner tube, mini pump and multi tool kit etc.
Today the weather was glorious in sunny Lancashire - warm - so I did 13.3 miles. MUCH better ride than the other night, although this neck of mine is still hurting after 5-6 miles.
Fitness is improving as did usual 5 mile route, felt had way more energy, blitzed it, so carried on to parents to go say hi and have a brew.
8.5 miles to theirs so had a break.
Back on the bike and back home
May do a cheeky 5 miler first thing tomorrow morning before work, but go for pace.0 -
Placed orders for the following:
Snood
Mini Pump
Tyre Levers
Inner Tubes (set of 5)
Chute bottle
Saddle Bag
ANOTHER £100 down, ha.0 -
Hope you've got a good outlet, otherwise see Wiggle, Evans or Chain Reaction
Funny, but after mulling over your posts, I added up the bits I've bought for the bike;-
Different tyres (supplied ones were rubbish and this was cost effective for the safety and lower resistance) £54
Inner tubes £10
Saddle bag £10
Tyre levers £10 - I can't really remember the last three, so I'm guessing.
Saddle £85 (to replace the ar$e hatchet - Bontrager give a guarantee. And it worked)
Lights £20
2nd Bottle cage (need this after 40 miles) £10
Camelbak bottle £10
Look Keo pedals £25 (n.b. it took about a year to get the pedal discipline and a few teddies were thrown in the meantime)
Mini pump £10
Garmin 820 Edge computer £240
Which adds up to the same money I paid for my bike. OK, I had a great deal on the Decathlon 540SE where the Mavic wheels, carbon forks, Shimano 105 gears and 9kg weight add up to more then the bike on their own.
Been looking at getting a full carbon bike for a year, but the more I've been abroad (serious hills)/read articles/listened ( a lot) and done some miles, I reckon the 540 is just fine; it's the engine that needs improving.0 -
Jerry185 wrote:Hope you've got a good outlet, otherwise see Wiggle, Evans or Chain Reaction
Funny, but after mulling over your posts, I added up the bits I've bought for the bike;-
Different tyres (supplied ones were rubbish and this was cost effective for the safety and lower resistance) £54
Inner tubes £10
Saddle bag £10
Tyre levers £10 - I can't really remember the last three, so I'm guessing.
Saddle £85 (to replace the ar$e hatchet - Bontrager give a guarantee. And it worked)
Lights £20
2nd Bottle cage (need this after 40 miles) £10
Camelbak bottle £10
Look Keo pedals £25 (n.b. it took about a year to get the pedal discipline and a few teddies were thrown in the meantime)
Mini pump £10
Garmin 820 Edge computer £240
Which adds up to the same money I paid for my bike. OK, I had a great deal on the Decathlon 540SE where the Mavic wheels, carbon forks, Shimano 105 gears and 9kg weight add up to more then the bike on their own.
Been looking at getting a full carbon bike for a year, but the more I've been abroad (serious hills)/read articles/listened ( a lot) and done some miles, I reckon the 540 is just fine; it's the engine that needs improving.
I have Halfords local, and I'm pretty close to Ribble Cycles which gets banded around my area as being decent.
Tuesday I did 12 miles around a load of B roads in my area, country back lanes, no lights at all, and I really enjoyed it. Did dawn on me that if the shit hits the fan and I get a flat, I'm knackered really. A bunch of cows in a field aren't going to help, are they
Today I did 14.5 miles. Fitness improving loads, just my neck is absolutely in agony at 6 miles or so. I really need to either adjust my handlebars or something to reduce the pain some.
Sunday I'll have to blast a quick 5 miler, but give it hell for leather. Won't have time to do much more.
All my equipment listed a few posts ago has now arrived. Need to get researching on how to use them now.0 -
figbat wrote:I seem to do better on the descents.
Routes... a good idea. I should start using routes.0 -
Back in 2005 I was 120kg (19 stone) and a totally unfit meat/junk eating smoker. A friend said he was going on a 100km ride, said I wouldn't be able to manage it as I was too unfit. I thought not, so I went too. It hurt a lot, but I made it, just on some horrible clunky old mountain bike.
Forward 11 years, I now am a 79kg (12.5 stone) non-smoking vegan. After 10 years of cycle commuting and mountain biking, I've mostly switched over to road biking and think nothing much of a hundred mile ride. I recently completed an Everesting (250km (150 miles)) which is riding up and down a hill until you do the same height of Mount Everest (8850 meters). Usually takes about 15-24 hours.
Your body is capable of so much more than you think, I think by the spring you could be ready for a 100 mile ride as long as you gently build up to it by training.0
