11-32 or man up?

2

Comments

  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    OP, just checking, are you 11 speed? (from recollection 10 speed goes up to 30t, 11 speed 32t, so if 10 you will want a SRAM cassette which does do 32t)

    Was the case until recently, now 4700 Tiagra has 10 speed cassettes in 11-32 and 11-34 flavours.

    Ta. Not 6700 though?

    All Shimano 10 speed cassettes are compatible. So 4700 will work fine, you just have to remember with Tiagra no spacer is required.

    No. I meant there's no 6700 cassette in 32t?

    No; 12-30 is the biggest. But there's very little difference between 6700 and 4700.
  • bendertherobot
    bendertherobot Posts: 11,684
    Ta. Thought so. Weight is fairly insignificant between the 2 anyway. And the Tiagra is cheap. He can even afford a new chain if he does that. :D
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  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    Ta. Thought so. Weight is fairly insignificant between the 2 anyway. And the Tiagra is cheap. He can even afford a new chain if he does that. :D

    I've variously used 6700 and 4600 10 speed cassettes on my bike over the years and I've noticed no difference at all. tbh I couldn't tell you which I have fitted at the moment. Unfortunately Shimano have stopped making Tiagra 12-30 so I'll only be getting the Ultegra version - until they disappear too.
  • dstev55
    dstev55 Posts: 742
    I am currently 11 speed.

    I think I'll go 105 11-32 cassette, Ultegra RD and a new chain. Anything less than this and I'll end up regretting it in the middle of the Peak District with no-one around to help.

    When I get a new chain, do I need one that is specifically for an 11-32 cassette then (ie longer)?
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    dstev55 wrote:
    I am currently 11 speed.

    I think I'll go 105 11-32 cassette, Ultegra RD and a new chain. Anything less than this and I'll end up regretting it in the middle of the Peak District with no-one around to help.

    When I get a new chain, do I need one that is specifically for an 11-32 cassette then (ie longer)?

    The majority of chains come too long and you have to cut them down to size anyway.
  • bendertherobot
    bendertherobot Posts: 11,684
    You just need a 11 speed chain. It will be longer when it comes (than what you have, typically 112-116 links). You just need to cut it to length.
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  • ddraver
    ddraver Posts: 26,700
    dstev55 wrote:
    I am currently 11 speed.

    I think I'll go 105 11-32 cassette, Ultegra RD and a new chain. Anything less than this and I'll end up regretting it in the middle of the Peak District with no-one around to help.

    When I get a new chain, do I need one that is specifically for an 11-32 cassette then (ie longer)?

    No, It'll only be a question of a couple of links, but it's worth doing
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  • step83
    step83 Posts: 4,170
    I had 53-39 on the front of mine went from an 11-28 to an 11-32. Just needs re indexing and a tweak on the B limiter so it can swing out enough for it without catching the jockey wheel.
    Chain wise any 11 spd chain will do the job just they all come way to long anyway.
  • janwal
    janwal Posts: 489
    http://www.lindarets.com/roadlink/
    http://www.shop.18bikes.co.uk/products.php?mode=search
    How about one of these,mentioned in the CTC mag today.You can even run an Mtb Deore 11-36 or similar if you really want and no need to change derailleur etc.
  • dstev55
    dstev55 Posts: 742
    janwal wrote:
    http://www.lindarets.com/roadlink/
    http://www.shop.18bikes.co.uk/products.php?mode=search
    How about one of these,mentioned in the CTC mag today.You can even run an Mtb Deore 11-36 or similar if you really want and no need to change derailleur etc.

    Looks perfect!
  • I'm a bit late to the party but I have the same semi-compact chainset as the OP - 52/36 and I recently fitted the 11-32 cassette while retaining the medium cage DR.

    My bike came with Ultegra 11 speed 11-25 but I wanted a bit more flexibility for the hills if my legs are tired. I decided to go for the 11-32 and a long cage DR. I first fitted the cassette to see how it married up with the DR and it seemed fine. I've been using it like that, 58 miles so far all looking good.

    I just need to make sure I don't go into the 52 - 32 gear, but if I ever I think that will be a problem, I've got the long cage DR ready as well to fit.

    So I would say go for it, you will still get the 11, 12, 13 and 14 cogs for sprinting with the added benefit of the 28 and 32 cogs if you to give your legs a bit of a break !
  • dstev55
    dstev55 Posts: 742
    I'm a bit late to the party but I have the same semi-compact chainset as the OP - 52/36 and I recently fitted the 11-32 cassette while retaining the medium cage DR.

    My bike came with Ultegra 11 speed 11-25 but I wanted a bit more flexibility for the hills if my legs are tired. I decided to go for the 11-32 and a long cage DR. I first fitted the cassette to see how it married up with the DR and it seemed fine. I've been using it like that, 58 miles so far all looking good.

    I just need to make sure I don't go into the 52 - 32 gear, but if I ever I think that will be a problem, I've got the long cage DR ready as well to fit.

    So I would say go for it, you will still get the 11, 12, 13 and 14 cogs for sprinting with the added benefit of the 28 and 32 cogs if you to give your legs a bit of a break !

    Thanks for the experience share.

    To put it simply, I'm far too clumsy to keep my DA RD on as I'll definitely inadvertently go in to 52-32. The little rear derailleur extender that has been suggested means I won't need to buy another rear derailleur and will save me at least £25.

    Overall cost shouldn't be any more than £60 which I can live with.
  • dj58
    dj58 Posts: 2,223
    OP are you sure about that Lindarets Roadlink. Compatibility states that for a road double crankset it should only be used with a medium or long cage RD. Isn't the DA RD-9000 a SS mech?
  • dstev55
    dstev55 Posts: 742
    DJ58 wrote:
    OP are you sure about that Lindarets Roadlink. Compatibility states that for a road double crankset it should only be used with a medium or long cage RD. Isn't the DA RD-9000 a SS mech?

    No not sure but surely if people are using DA RD's on 11-32s already (other than 52-32) then the Roadlink is only going to make things better?
  • svetty
    svetty Posts: 1,904
    Could the OP not get a 34 inner chainring purely for the event?
    FFS! Harden up and grow a pair :D
  • dstev55
    dstev55 Posts: 742
    Svetty wrote:
    Could the OP not get a 34 inner chainring purely for the event?

    I could I suppose but a 36-32 would give me a lower gear than what a 34 - 28 would.

    I've just emailed Lindarets to check compatibility so I'll let you all know what they say.
  • dstev55
    dstev55 Posts: 742
    OK so I got a very prompt reply back from Lindarets that went as follows:

    I'm afraid not- the RoadLink takes things too far. A DA rear derailleur is compromised with a 32 in either case so it ends up being a wash performance-wise. For a wider-range double drivetrain, a mid-cage Ultegra would be the starting point.

    Back to Plan A it is then!
  • ben@31
    ben@31 Posts: 2,327
    I quite like a high cadence rather than mashing the pedals with leg strength. As I went through a "loving climbing hills" phase, I got a 11-32t fitted.
    With Ultegra derailleurs, the SS is advertised to work with a 28t cassette ( but you might be able to overclock it to work with a 30t if you screw the B-screw tension adjuster all the way but then it might not change as smoothly).
    While an Ultegra GS derailleur is advertised to be work 11-32t
    The only ( slight ) problem with a cassette like a 30t or 32t is on the flat, sometimes my natural cadence will be in-between the cassettes gear ratios and I'll end up constantly f licking the derailleur in-between two rings.
    If you're buying a new derailleur and replacing the chain anyway, I see no reason not to buy a 30t cassette while you're at it. You don't have to use the 30t but its there if needed.
    "The Prince of Wales is now the King of France" - Calton Kirby
  • dj58
    dj58 Posts: 2,223
    The OP has 11sp, I don't think anyone makes an 11 speed cassette with a 30T cog, hence the question regarding the temporary fitment of an 11-32T cassette for a hilly sportive he is doing.
  • DeVlaeminck
    DeVlaeminck Posts: 9,106
    I would check what speed you will be riding at with a given cadence. For a given one off event on the steepest hills you might reasonably be riding at 60rpm - that's low but not ridiculous - what speed would you be going with your existing gearing - that should help you work out if you need the lower gear.
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  • dstev55
    dstev55 Posts: 742
    I would check what speed you will be riding at with a given cadence. For a given one off event on the steepest hills you might reasonably be riding at 60rpm - that's low but not ridiculous - what speed would you be going with your existing gearing - that should help you work out if you need the lower gear.

    Good point but I'm a cadence rider, I'd be much more comfortable climbing at 90rpm than I would at 70 or below. As someone as already pointed out, it will be similar to a 10 speed 12-28 (which my winter bike is) with an extra gear on top and I've had no problem riding my winter bike do it seems like a no-brainer to get it done.
  • bigmul
    bigmul Posts: 208
    I have 36/52 with 11-28 and was also considering the same thing as was doing the C2C in 24 hours (over 2 days though), however just did it with original gearing and was fine. Yes the hills were tough, but just go at your own pace and you'll be fine. I was with some people who had triples, but really you'll be fine!
  • bikingjohn
    bikingjohn Posts: 202
    Gear spacing wise I'd go for SRAM 11-32. I like closer gear stepping for flat.

    Or even custom 12-32 combining 11-32 and 12-25 from two shimano cassettes (may have a little shifting noise at some combinations).
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  • feisty
    feisty Posts: 161
    Just to say that I'm very light (63kg to 65kg) and while I don't claim to be anything special, my weight means I am pretty quick up the hills (top 5% to 10% on most strava climbs). I do some pretty hilly rides in Kent with hills reaching 25% (Brasted Hill, Yorks hill, Toys Hill etc) and used to use a 12-30 on my 10 speed bike which I always found fine (in so much as 25% is ever fine)

    I got an 11 speed 11-32 bike and only rode it for the first time yesterday. Not only were the hills easier (steadier cadence etc) I also knocked 13 seconds off my PB time up Toys HIll (and I almost rode that PB on my 10 speed a week ago)

    I used the 32 quite a bit flipping into the 28 where the gradient allowed at times. So I found the higher cadence more than compensated for the lower gear inches of a bigger cassette

    We are of course all different but it works for me
  • dstev55
    dstev55 Posts: 742
    feisty wrote:
    Just to say that I'm very light (63kg to 65kg) and while I don't claim to be anything special, my weight means I am pretty quick up the hills (top 5% to 10% on most strava climbs). I do some pretty hilly rides in Kent with hills reaching 25% (Brasted Hill, Yorks hill, Toys Hill etc) and used to use a 12-30 on my 10 speed bike which I always found fine (in so much as 25% is ever fine)

    I got an 11 speed 11-32 bike and only rode it for the first time yesterday. Not only were the hills easier (steadier cadence etc) I also knocked 13 seconds off my PB time up Toys HIll (and I almost rode that PB on my 10 speed a week ago)

    I used the 32 quite a bit flipping into the 28 where the gradient allowed at times. So I found the higher cadence more than compensated for the lower gear inches of a bigger cassette

    We are of course all different but it works for me

    You sound very similar to me mate, I'm 66kg at 6ft and similarly in the top 5-10% on climbs on Strava. I'm definitely going for it, the benefits outweigh the only slight negative of having bigger gaps between some ratios.
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    feisty wrote:
    Just to say that I'm very light (63kg to 65kg) and while I don't claim to be anything special, my weight means I am pretty quick up the hills (top 5% to 10% on most strava climbs).

    How tall are you? I just ask because 63kg is the weight I'm aiming for (some way off yet) and wondered where you sit in terms of w/kg.
  • feisty
    feisty Posts: 161
    Just under 6ft 1 but I don't think that means much. All depends on build etc. I'm all legs with a tiny body
  • feisty
    feisty Posts: 161
    I should say I don't aim to lose weight either. I eat well; just that's the way I'm built. Not sure it's healthy to try and aim for a weight below one's natural level personally
  • svetty
    svetty Posts: 1,904
    feisty wrote:
    I should say I don't aim to lose weight either. I eat well; just that's the way I'm built. Not sure it's healthy to try and aim for a weight below one's natural level personally

    Thats almost all the pro-peloton :lol: I'm not saying you're wromg.....
    FFS! Harden up and grow a pair :D
  • davep1
    davep1 Posts: 837
    Also late to this party, have done the swap in the original post for the Fred. My bike came with all Ultegra, 52-36 and 11-28, 11 speed. I got a new chain, 11-32 cassette and medium mech through various sales for less than £100; Wiggle told me I would need a medium mech for this combo.
    I find it helps my climbing in as much I can stay seated for longer, and I haven't noticed gaps in the cassette.
    I did think about swapping the chainset instead, but the cassette and chain needed replacing anyway, so it was the easier cheaper route for me.