What would you do if you thought your bike was too big?

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Comments

  • bmxboy10
    bmxboy10 Posts: 1,958
    Again thanks for all the input on this.

    Been outside measuring, eying up and tinkering based on all that you guys have said.

    I reckon that without doubt an in line post will give me the 10-15mm I need to get myself in the right position over the 172.5 cranks. As I don't care much for the finishing kit I also will ditch the bars as the ergonovas (despite being compact/ short reach) are still 10-15 longer than the PRO bars on my CAAD and I like the PRO bar shape more than the ergonovas. The Ergonovas also mean you have to have the shifters forward and lower than I would normally like so this will also reduce reach slightly. The other thing is if I am going to make these changes I will probably go down to a 42cm C/C bar as I know from experience this can assist in reducing reach to a degree. Ill keep you posted!
  • bristolpete
    bristolpete Posts: 2,255
    solboy10 wrote:
    Again thanks for all the input on this.

    Been outside measuring, eying up and tinkering based on all that you guys have said.

    I reckon that without doubt an in line post will give me the 10-15mm I need to get myself in the right position over the 172.5 cranks. As I don't care much for the finishing kit I also will ditch the bars as the ergonovas (despite being compact/ short reach) are still 10-15 longer than the PRO bars on my CAAD and I like the PRO bar shape more than the ergonovas. The Ergonovas also mean you have to have the shifters forward and lower than I would normally like so this will also reduce reach slightly. The other thing is if I am going to make these changes I will probably go down to a 42cm C/C bar as I know from experience this can assist in reducing reach to a degree. Ill keep you posted!

    Yep, I ride an evo with 165mm cranks as a. bike fitter recommended them. b. I reside in Devon, thus giving me better cadence on the climbs and c. they just work better. Of course, over time have come down from 172.5mm the 'stock' length and thus the seat post rises by the amount the cranks drop, giving the bike good form looks wise. Steven and the twins are never in danger on my 56cm bike. According to Cannondale I should ride a 50/52cm frame but frankly it would look stupid and put me in serious peril on the descents. One thing I learnt about bike fit is it is soooo bloody unique, as long as you are comfy and safe, it works. I am sure with a bit of fettling you'll get it right. Take a look at Zipp 70-SL short reach bars as a good option.
  • MikeBrew
    MikeBrew Posts: 814
    edited April 2016
    The only other thing I'd say is make any changes one at a time, rather than all at once. The first reason for this is that small adjustments can make more difference to feel/fit than you might expect, so too many changes in one go could take you from stretched-out to hunched-up. The second reason is that if you do multiple changes at once it's less clear what's been beneficial and what hasn't.
    Obviously, the starting point in this instance appears to be the saddle position/seat post.
  • Bobbinogs
    Bobbinogs Posts: 4,841
    solboy10 wrote:
    Again thanks for all the input on this.

    Been outside measuring, eying up and tinkering based on all that you guys have said.

    I reckon that without doubt an in line post will give me the 10-15mm I need to get myself in the right position over the 172.5 cranks. As I don't care much for the finishing kit I also will ditch the bars as the ergonovas (despite being compact/ short reach) are still 10-15 longer than the PRO bars on my CAAD and I like the PRO bar shape more than the ergonovas. The Ergonovas also mean you have to have the shifters forward and lower than I would normally like so this will also reduce reach slightly. The other thing is if I am going to make these changes I will probably go down to a 42cm C/C bar as I know from experience this can assist in reducing reach to a degree. Ill keep you posted!

    That's a lot of changes, have you thought about just selling your bike for one that fits you? :wink:
  • MikeBrew
    MikeBrew Posts: 814
    Bobbinogs wrote:
    That's a lot of changes, have you thought about just selling your bike for one that fits you? :wink:

    Have YOU thought about looking at the geometry on the next size down Fratello ? Think that would be a better fit ? Really ? :shock: Have to say, common sense aside, I'm quite envious of anyone who can afford to buy a new frame when a seat post would do. Do you by a new car when yours runs out of fuel ? Must be a banker ! A glib banker at that ....:wink:
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    How much does it matter in the end? e.g. My frame, a Scott CR1 52cm is rather too big for me. Evidenced if you will by the fitter putting on a 70cm stem. But even given that assuming my saddle, pedals and bars are in the correct place is there then any advantage to spending on getting a smaller frame?

    My bike handles fine with the stem, no issues riding it.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    MikeBrew wrote:
    Bobbinogs wrote:
    That's a lot of changes, have you thought about just selling your bike for one that fits you? :wink:

    Have YOU thought about looking at the geometry on the next size down Fratello ? Think that would be a better fit ? Really ? :shock: Have to say, common sense aside, I'm quite envious of anyone who can afford to buy a new frame when a seat post would do. Do you by a new car when yours runs out of fuel ? Must be a banker ! A glib banker at that ....:wink:

    Give it up Bobbinogs you fat lazy banker, I don't think you can win this one 8)
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    How much does it matter in the end? e.g. My frame, a Scott CR1 52cm is rather too big for me. Evidenced if you will by the fitter putting on a 70cm stem. But even given that assuming my saddle, pedals and bars are in the correct place is there then any advantage to spending on getting a smaller frame?

    My bike handles fine with the stem, no issues riding it.

    All sounds good re saddle, pedals and bar position.
    Unless your (ones) bike is made to measure it is unlikely to fit perfectly, so all you are doing is taking it a little bit further.

    As to the stem, my feeling is that you get used to more or less any stem length so thats kind of ok too.

    That said I feel that there is an optimum length stem (weight position over front wheel and turning arc etc.), and deviating from this can only mean a poorer ride.
    Bikes are not immune to the laws of physics (quite the opposite IMO) so there must be a difference, even if the rider gets used to it, it is still there, and worth avoiding if at all possible.

    The 'riders wallet v how much it bothers rider' equation is a difficult thing to add into the mix though.
  • kajjal
    kajjal Posts: 3,380
    The advice i would give is fully price up all potential changes and compare this cost to changing to a bike that fits properly. I used to have this issue with mountain bikes in the early 1990's being very tall. In my experience nothing beats a bike that fits you properly in the first place.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Kajjal wrote:
    The advice i would give is fully price up all potential changes and compare this cost to changing to a bike that fits properly. I used to have this issue with mountain bikes in the early 1990's being very tall. In my experience nothing beats a bike that fits you properly in the first place.

    Oh no, that kind of talk will wake the angry man, and he will be along to shout rudely at you any minute now :lol:
  • MikeBrew
    MikeBrew Posts: 814
    Carbonator wrote:
    Kajjal wrote:
    The advice i would give is fully price up all potential changes and compare this cost to changing to a bike that fits properly. I used to have this issue with mountain bikes in the early 1990's being very tall. In my experience nothing beats a bike that fits you properly in the first place.

    Oh no, that kind of talk will wake the angry man, and he will be along to shout rudely at you any minute now :lol:


    It's good that you remain so demonstrably un-irked. Inscrutable even, like a chicken shaking hands with Colonel Sanders :wink: (LOL)
  • gaffer_slow
    gaffer_slow Posts: 417
    you can lose 20mm reach by going from ergonova to a 70mm reach bars.

    I am sure a short stem handles fine, but i found the handling difference descending going from 90-100 to be huge.
  • fudgey
    fudgey Posts: 854
    I had the same thing with my first road bike purchase. I bought a 52s Colnago AC-R (56cm eq) off the net going off size guides. I feel too stretched on it, tried a 70mm stem and it helped with the reach but i hit my knees on the bars out the saddle and still,was not very comfortable on it.
    Bloody nice nice bike tho and i love it.
    In January i bought a Colnago CX zero alloy in size 50s (54cm eq) and it just feel soo much more comfortable. Ok the geo is different going from an all out racing machine to a more relaxed sportive geo but, i think i will sell the AC-R and if funds allow buy another in a 50s. The only thing is i dont like the current colour schemes of the AC-R's...
    My winter bike is exactly the same as my summer bike,,, but dirty...
  • MikeBrew
    MikeBrew Posts: 814
    solboy10 wrote:
    Again thanks for all the input on this.

    Been outside measuring, eying up and tinkering based on all that you guys have said.

    I reckon that without doubt an in line post will give me the 10-15mm I need to get myself in the right position over the 172.5 cranks. As I don't care much for the finishing kit I also will ditch the bars as the ergonovas (despite being compact/ short reach) are still 10-15 longer than the PRO bars on my CAAD and I like the PRO bar shape more than the ergonovas. The Ergonovas also mean you have to have the shifters forward and lower than I would normally like so this will also reduce reach slightly. The other thing is if I am going to make these changes I will probably go down to a 42cm C/C bar as I know from experience this can assist in reducing reach to a degree. Ill keep you posted!

    How did this pan out ?
  • bristolpete
    bristolpete Posts: 2,255
    For me, the dream is over. Went for bike fit this week, and took the evo. Over reaching and 'clasic' geo too big. Simple as that. It is a big sea change for me as fitted to a compact medium bike and all within the realms of a superb fit, but I need to get used to the position and adapt and hopefully allow my neck and shoulders to recover. The evo is going up for sale in the coming week or two.
  • kajjal
    kajjal Posts: 3,380
    For me, the dream is over. Went for bike fit this week, and took the evo. Over reaching and 'clasic' geo too big. Simple as that. It is a big sea change for me as fitted to a compact medium bike and all within the realms of a superb fit, but I need to get used to the position and adapt and hopefully allow my neck and shoulders to recover. The evo is going up for sale in the coming week or two.

    At least you know now and can get into riding without worrying about the bike.
  • mamil314
    mamil314 Posts: 1,103
    solboy10 wrote:
    Again thanks for all the input on this.

    Been outside measuring, eying up and tinkering based on all that you guys have said.

    I reckon that without doubt an in line post will give me the 10-15mm I need to get myself in the right position over the 172.5 cranks. As I don't care much for the finishing kit I also will ditch the bars as the ergonovas (despite being compact/ short reach) are still 10-15 longer than the PRO bars on my CAAD and I like the PRO bar shape more than the ergonovas. The Ergonovas also mean you have to have the shifters forward and lower than I would normally like so this will also reduce reach slightly. The other thing is if I am going to make these changes I will probably go down to a 42cm C/C bar as I know from experience this can assist in reducing reach to a degree. Ill keep you posted!

    Yep, I ride an evo with 165mm cranks as a. bike fitter recommended them. b. I reside in Devon, thus giving me better cadence on the climbs and c. they just work better. Of course, over time have come down from 172.5mm the 'stock' length and thus the seat post rises by the amount the cranks drop, giving the bike good form looks wise. Steven and the twins are never in danger on my 56cm bike. According to Cannondale I should ride a 50/52cm frame but frankly it would look stupid and put me in serious peril on the descents. One thing I learnt about bike fit is it is soooo bloody unique, as long as you are comfy and safe, it works. I am sure with a bit of fettling you'll get it right. Take a look at Zipp 70-SL short reach bars as a good option.

    I can't wrap my head around this - how does crank length affect cadence?
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    mamil314 wrote:
    I can't wrap my head around this - how does crank length affect cadence?

    The shorter the cranks the higher your cadence tends to be, I guess because of the shorter distance around the circle. Don't ask me for the sciences as I have none.
  • MikeBrew
    MikeBrew Posts: 814
    For me, the dream is over. Went for bike fit this week, and took the evo. Over reaching and 'clasic' geo too big. Simple as that. It is a big sea change for me as fitted to a compact medium bike and all within the realms of a superb fit, but I need to get used to the position and adapt and hopefully allow my neck and shoulders to recover. The evo is going up for sale in the coming week or two.


    Shame, it was a nice build. Pauls Cycles do appear to have new stock in that frameset in 54 and 56, though they are now £999 :|
  • bristolpete
    bristolpete Posts: 2,255
    OK, so thought I would add another post to this one. I have sold my evo lock stock as a build, put 105 on it and transposed a set of £250 all in Giant SL1 wheels and it went for £1500 all in so happy with that. Currently on a medium TCR as a loaner / demo bike and a week later, after two chiro sessions and a better fit, the neck pain and shoulder pain is gone. I have come to realise, bike fit massively important and I have been riding a long time, should have known better. Pete.
  • holiver
    holiver Posts: 729
    Speaking from my experience, changing bars to the shortest reach option would be my first step. A set of PRO LT compact bars would be a cheap set to try.
  • kajjal
    kajjal Posts: 3,380
    OK, so thought I would add another post to this one. I have sold my evo lock stock as a build, put 105 on it and transposed a set of £250 all in Giant SL1 wheels and it went for £1500 all in so happy with that. Currently on a medium TCR as a loaner / demo bike and a week later, after two chiro sessions and a better fit, the neck pain and shoulder pain is gone. I have come to realise, bike fit massively important and I have been riding a long time, should have known better. Pete.

    Some times we just have to prove things to ourselves, glad you are sorted.
  • bristolpete
    bristolpete Posts: 2,255
    Kajjal wrote:
    OK, so thought I would add another post to this one. I have sold my evo lock stock as a build, put 105 on it and transposed a set of £250 all in Giant SL1 wheels and it went for £1500 all in so happy with that. Currently on a medium TCR as a loaner / demo bike and a week later, after two chiro sessions and a better fit, the neck pain and shoulder pain is gone. I have come to realise, bike fit massively important and I have been riding a long time, should have known better. Pete.

    Some times we just have to prove things to ourselves, glad you are sorted.

    For sure. A scratch I had to itch due to having a 54cm three years ago, and continually thinking I was a 56. Turns out an I am neither really, as compact / sloping top tubes just seem to work better for me. Oddly, we are talking about 1 cm here or there, but 1 cm over a prolonged period makes all the difference, or so my Mrs. tells me. :mrgreen:

    The constant pain has eased up, the bike is nice and lively and hopefully the pain mustered on a ride due to over reaching will ebb away with the right fit and care. I realise life to short to ride s**t bikes, but also too short to ride a bike too big.

    Nice one all.
  • bmxboy10
    bmxboy10 Posts: 1,958
    MikeBrew wrote:
    solboy10 wrote:
    Again thanks for all the input on this.

    Been outside measuring, eying up and tinkering based on all that you guys have said.

    I reckon that without doubt an in line post will give me the 10-15mm I need to get myself in the right position over the 172.5 cranks. As I don't care much for the finishing kit I also will ditch the bars as the ergonovas (despite being compact/ short reach) are still 10-15 longer than the PRO bars on my CAAD and I like the PRO bar shape more than the ergonovas. The Ergonovas also mean you have to have the shifters forward and lower than I would normally like so this will also reduce reach slightly. The other thing is if I am going to make these changes I will probably go down to a 42cm C/C bar as I know from experience this can assist in reducing reach to a degree. Ill keep you posted!

    How did this pan out ?

    Got some Zipp finishing kit on order so hope to have a play about with the fit at the weekend.
  • bristolpete
    bristolpete Posts: 2,255
    solboy10 wrote:
    MikeBrew wrote:
    solboy10 wrote:
    Again thanks for all the input on this.

    Been outside measuring, eying up and tinkering based on all that you guys have said.

    I reckon that without doubt an in line post will give me the 10-15mm I need to get myself in the right position over the 172.5 cranks. As I don't care much for the finishing kit I also will ditch the bars as the ergonovas (despite being compact/ short reach) are still 10-15 longer than the PRO bars on my CAAD and I like the PRO bar shape more than the ergonovas. The Ergonovas also mean you have to have the shifters forward and lower than I would normally like so this will also reduce reach slightly. The other thing is if I am going to make these changes I will probably go down to a 42cm C/C bar as I know from experience this can assist in reducing reach to a degree. Ill keep you posted!

    How did this pan out ?

    Got some Zipp finishing kit on order so hope to have a play about with the fit at the weekend.

    Nice, really impressed by the Zipp stem I bought. Thank fully, as same steerer it is going on my daily commuter !
  • bmxboy10
    bmxboy10 Posts: 1,958
    MikeBrew wrote:
    solboy10 wrote:
    Again thanks for all the input on this.

    Been outside measuring, eying up and tinkering based on all that you guys have said.

    I reckon that without doubt an in line post will give me the 10-15mm I need to get myself in the right position over the 172.5 cranks. As I don't care much for the finishing kit I also will ditch the bars as the ergonovas (despite being compact/ short reach) are still 10-15 longer than the PRO bars on my CAAD and I like the PRO bar shape more than the ergonovas. The Ergonovas also mean you have to have the shifters forward and lower than I would normally like so this will also reduce reach slightly. The other thing is if I am going to make these changes I will probably go down to a 42cm C/C bar as I know from experience this can assist in reducing reach to a degree. Ill keep you posted!

    How did this pan out ?

    So here we are then. Changed the finishing kit and the in line post just didn't work. The bars are 42 rather than 46cm and have a 10mm shorter reach. I found the in line post made me sit too far forwards. The new Zipp post has less off set but this is marginal and I have found moving the saddle back actually makes the bike feel better. So I have ended up in a more aggressive position but so far so good!

    Have to say I have fallen back in love with the Condor and been out on it three times this week. New tyres too!

    IMG_2410_zps1h2gyxdv.jpg
  • bristolpete
    bristolpete Posts: 2,255
    So, finally caved in and had a bike fight on my new Synapse. Interesting thing, but as a seasoned roadie, I thought I was dialled in, but alas, pretty wide of the mark. Bike geo is so peculiar and as I am now on a 54cm Synapse with a steep seat tube I needed some adjustment. Booked to see a chap called Tony here after googling bike fit in the South West -

    http://www.tribecyclesolutions.co.uk/

    A superb fit and experience. Superb value for money. He has a slightly more holistic approach than the goniometer and chin scratch, though fit in included biometric assessment, strength test, before and after Q&A. Lasers, motion as well as old skool techniques used. Went out for a 32 miler this morning and felt on the money saddle wise, literally in the sweet spot - not felt like that in a long time. Saddle height was spot on too, we also adjusted my cleats and again, I felt like I was pedalling smoothly, knees tracking well and dragging the rug as I call it. All in all, after spending huge ££££ on bikes, lesson learned that a fit at £99 is worth every penny. If you are local, I recommend Tony all day long.
  • I've got a 55cm Condor Fratello and I'm 175cm tall. I've always felt it's a little too big for me - I've put a shorter stem on it - but after 8 or 9 years of ownership, it's very definitely too late to take it back. :) If you are concerned, do something about it sooner rather than later.

    The problem (for me) with the Fratello is that the sizes are 52cm and 55cm - the 55cm feels a little too big but the 52 cm feels quite a bit too small. If they did a 54cm, that would probably be perfect for me.

    My new bike is a "Small" - not sure what that means in cm but I had a full blown bike fit and I think it was worth every penny.
    Never be tempted to race against a Barclays Cycle Hire bike. If you do, there are only two outcomes. Of these, by far the better is that you now have the scalp of a Boris Bike.