Tubeless
fat_tail
Posts: 786
I am sure this has been discussed before but I could only find one thread where someone was asking about tubeless pumps.
I am getting a new wheelset that is "tubeless ready" and contemplating whether it is worth going down the route of getting tubeless tyres. But I have some questions
Are they really more puncture resistant ?
is it messy dealing with the sealant ?
do they really ride better ?
thanks
I am getting a new wheelset that is "tubeless ready" and contemplating whether it is worth going down the route of getting tubeless tyres. But I have some questions
Are they really more puncture resistant ?
is it messy dealing with the sealant ?
do they really ride better ?
thanks
Ridley Fenix SL
0
Comments
-
fat_tail wrote:I am sure this has been discussed before but I could only find one thread where someone was asking about tubeless pumps.
I am getting a new wheelset that is "tubeless ready" and contemplating whether it is worth going down the route of getting tubeless tyres. But I have some questions
Are they really more puncture resistant ?
is it messy dealing with the sealant ?
do they really ride better ?
thanks
Big thread in road buying advice but:
Not really, the point is rather that you might not notice the minor ones. But they can be tougher.
Yes. There are methods to get round this. Get a giant syringe.
Yes. A bit.My blog: http://www.roubaixcycling.cc (kit reviews and other musings)
https://twitter.com/roubaixcc
Facebook? No. Just say no.0 -
I only know about this from an MTB point of view:
[*]Are they really more puncture resistant ? - ~Yes, you may get a puncture but it seals easily and permanently, you might need to top up with air but you don't need to do anything else
[*]is it messy dealing with the sealant ? - when you are initially putting some in the tyre then possibly, yes. you don't need to touch it other than that
[*]do they really ride better ? yes, they ride more like tubs than a tyre with an inner tube
Try some Schwalbe 1's, you need tubeless specific tyres for road. you can do it with any tyre on MTB but not roadFCN = 40 -
I'm with MTB here, same experience
1/ Not puncture resistant as such, but you rarely get a flat, twice I've heard a "hiss...splutter....silence" quite clearly as the tyre punctures and then the sealant does it's thing.
2/ Messiness depends on how you do it, if you have removable valve cores then its not messy inflating it at all, inflate and locate beads, deflate, remove core and add sealant, inflate to pressure.
3/ Ride quality is much improved, tyres also role better (less rolling resistance).Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
viewtopic.php?f=40042&t=13015799
in short, it has the same benefits as MTB tubeless but all the faff too. If you use parts designed for tubeless it's far easier, if you ghetto it, it's more difficult. I'm a total convert FWIWWe're in danger of confusing passion with incompetence
- @ddraver0 -
MTB-Idle wrote:
Try some Schwalbe 1's, you need tubeless specific tyres for road. you can do it with any tyre on MTB but not road
For MTB tubeless I thought you still needed tubeless specific tyres but any rim could be converted??0 -
Almost any MTB folding will go up tubeless, none of mine are 'tubeless' tyres.
I bought a Stans kit with the tiny 50ml bottle of sealant as it makes it easy to add the sealant cleanly via a removable core valve, I just refill it each time from a 1 litre bottle.
My commuter is tubed, with 2 fairy visits in over 5K miles (neither went straight down and I got it to the end of the commute) I haven't bothered trying!Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0