Spare wheel for turbo trainer
wahla21
Posts: 96
Hi all,
This has most likely been discussed before but I can't qute find the answer to my question.
I have a bike with Shimano 11spd 105.
I'm looking to pick up a spare cheap wheel to use on the turbo.
Do I need to get a wheel with 11spd or can I get for example a 10spd one? I only really use 3-4 gears on the turbo anyway so shouldn't matter too much?
Thanks for you help.
This has most likely been discussed before but I can't qute find the answer to my question.
I have a bike with Shimano 11spd 105.
I'm looking to pick up a spare cheap wheel to use on the turbo.
Do I need to get a wheel with 11spd or can I get for example a 10spd one? I only really use 3-4 gears on the turbo anyway so shouldn't matter too much?
Thanks for you help.
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Comments
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Before you bother - try your normal wheel on the turbo.
My turbo doesnt eat tyres any more than being on the road does.
(and i'm pretty sure that the gap between sprockets will be narrower on 11sp so I cant see how you'd get decent changes using a 10sp?)0 -
As above re wheel, however I'd personally chuck on an old part worm tyre if the bike is going to stay on the turbo all winter to save your good tyres. No need for "turbo specific" tyres at all.
Never had a problem with turbos damaging wheels.Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
Hi all,
This has most likely been discussed before but I can't qute find the answer to my question.
I have a bike with Shimano 11spd 105.
I'm looking to pick up a spare cheap wheel to use on the turbo.
Do I need to get a wheel with 11spd or can I get for example a 10spd one? I only really use 3-4 gears on the turbo anyway so shouldn't matter too much?
Thanks for you help.
If your bike is 11sp then you really need an 11sp wheel and cassette. The only real way you could use a 10sp wheel is if you're using the likes of Trainer Road in ERG mode the entire time and you *never* shift gears. Otherwise the spacing on a 10sp cassette is going to be all wrong for your 11sp shifters.0 -
As above re wheel, however I'd personally chuck on an old part worm tyre if the bike is going to stay on the turbo all winter to save your good tyres. No need for "turbo specific" tyres at all.
Never had a problem with turbos damaging wheels.
I use the original 'budget' rear wheel that came with the bike, the old tyre I use on turbo certainly looks abused from use, very shiny with a definite edge to it.All lies and jest..still a man hears what he wants to hear and disregards the rest....0 -
Depending on the tyre you use you a turbo will make it unuseable on the road. I use Schwalbe one or Vittoria open corsa mainly and as they are both quite a soft compound they square off (lose the roundness in the centre) quite easily. I have used a Conti gp4000 on a turbo and it has lasted longer before it started to flatten. It may look ok but go out on the road with a squaring tyre it effects handling massively.0
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Turbo tyre is about £15 and will last years, would definitely recommend getting one.0
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10sp cassette on an 11sp set up works perfectly well, esp if only used in the middle ranges of gears, externally narrower chain compensates for the slight difference in RD movement, i know as me an my daughter use the same 11/23 10sp wheel on turbo, hers is 11sp bike, mine 10sp.
and i also disagree on a trainer tire too, buy one but then you ll need a spare wheel, see if your LBS has a wheel with a worn brake track or buy a shimano budget wheel.0 -
Turbo tyre is about £15 and will last years, would definitely recommend getting one.
Old part worn tyre from the box of old junk is about zero Pounds and will last years, would definitely recommend getting one.
And when it squares off it doesn't matter as you didn't intend to use it on the road.Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
Also most turbos don't get used for more than a week or two ;-)0
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The best answer is to use and old worn wheel, and on old tyre that you don't like.
Put a new, good, uprated wheel and tyre on the bike for going on the road.
#excusesforupgradesThe above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.0 -
Thanks guys, really appreciate it.
I started using my normal tyre but it worn out really quickly so bought a trainer road.
Will just get a cheap 11spd wheel to save me the hassle.
Happy New Year!0 -
Try and scrounge a crashed/buckled wheel. It doesn't need to be very round to use on the turbo as long as its not so buckled it hits the frame obviously. I'm using a melted carbon clincher.0
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I feel every ripple from my slightly out of true turbo wheel.Try and scrounge a crashed/buckled wheel. It doesn't need to be very round to use on the turbo as long as its not so buckled it hits the frame obviously. I'm using a melted carbon clincher.
I dread to think how a buckled wheel would feel. :shock:
Try applying some resistance. The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.0 -
The tyre squares off uniformly after one session.0
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My LBS gave me a wheel that had a ding in the braking surface but the wheel was still true, they were replacing it for someone. Perfect for the turbo but not great on the road.
I feel every ripple from my slightly out of true turbo wheel.Try and scrounge a crashed/buckled wheel. It doesn't need to be very round to use on the turbo as long as its not so buckled it hits the frame obviously. I'm using a melted carbon clincher.
I dread to think how a buckled wheel would feel. :shock:
Try applying some resistance.0 -
Must have some tread thickness to allow for a buckled wheel. :shock:The tyre squares off uniformly after one session.
My wheel is only slightly out of true, used on the turbo with the same tyre for 3 winters and I could count my wheel rpm without looking.
Bontrager Hardcase. Hated them on the road. Not that much better on the turbo.The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.0 -
I use an old wheel and tyre with a 9 speed cassette and works fine in the bottom half.0
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Turbo tyre is about £15 and will last years, would definitely recommend getting one.
Old part worn tyre from the box of old junk is about zero Pounds and will last years, would definitely recommend getting one.
And when it squares off it doesn't matter as you didn't intend to use it on the road.
I have a Gatorskin 700x28 that was used on the road for ages and is not my turbo tyre. Shows no sign giving up. I feel that it is effectively 'free' now since it is about 8 years old.0 -
Hi all,
This has most likely been discussed before but I can't qute find the answer to my question.
I have a bike with Shimano 11spd 105.
I'm looking to pick up a spare cheap wheel to use on the turbo.
Do I need to get a wheel with 11spd or can I get for example a 10spd one? I only really use 3-4 gears on the turbo anyway so shouldn't matter too much?
Thanks for you help.
An 11 speed cassette body is slightly wider than a 10 so you can't fit a full 11s cassette on a 10 wheel. But, you can get it to work with a fiddle, probably by missing one cog out and adding the right spacers (a 10 of 11 setup). You'll find more details with a search. If you only need 3 gears, then as others have said, you'd probably get a 10s cassette to work OK with a little adjustment.0 -
Hi all,
This has most likely been discussed before but I can't qute find the answer to my question.
I have a bike with Shimano 11spd 105.
I'm looking to pick up a spare cheap wheel to use on the turbo.
Do I need to get a wheel with 11spd or can I get for example a 10spd one? I only really use 3-4 gears on the turbo anyway so shouldn't matter too much?
Thanks for you help.
An 11 speed cassette body is slightly wider than a 10 so you can't fit a full 11s cassette on a 10 wheel. But, you can get it to work with a fiddle, probably by missing one cog out and adding the right spacers (a 10 of 11 setup). You'll find more details with a search. If you only need 3 gears, then as others have said, you'd probably get a 10s cassette to work OK with a little adjustment.
Im betting most 10 speed freehub wheels on the market in the last 2 years are 11 speed compatible anyway0 -
They may be, but it doesn't quite follow. It's either 10 speed or it's 11 speed, you can't put a 10 speed cassette on an 11 speed hub without a spacer, so it's not like you wouldn't notice.0
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They may be, but it doesn't quite follow. It's either 10 speed or it's 11 speed, you can't put a 10 speed cassette on an 11 speed hub without a spacer, so it's not like you wouldn't notice.
Duh! Still means you can get either 10 or 11 speed cassette on. A 1mm spacer is not the hardest bitt of kit to aquire. Or use a Tiagra cassette as no spacer is required - I have one on a Fulcrum 3 with a blue tacx tyre for my turbo / rollers0 -
They may be, but it doesn't quite follow. It's either 10 speed or it's 11 speed, you can't put a 10 speed cassette on an 11 speed hub without a spacer, so it's not like you wouldn't notice.
Duh! Still means you can get either 10 or 11 speed cassette on. A 1mm spacer is not the hardest bitt of kit to aquire. Or use a Tiagra cassette as no spacer is required - I have one on a Fulcrum 3 with a blue tacx tyre for my turbo / rollers
The Tiagra cassette will still need a spacer on an 11 speed wheel. I know as that's the exact set up I'm using for my turbo bike - Tacx tyre too, although Shimano R010 wheels so not an exact match
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They may be, but it doesn't quite follow. It's either 10 speed or it's 11 speed, you can't put a 10 speed cassette on an 11 speed hub without a spacer, so it's not like you wouldn't notice.
Duh! Still means you can get either 10 or 11 speed cassette on. A 1mm spacer is not the hardest bitt of kit to aquire. Or use a Tiagra cassette as no spacer is required - I have one on a Fulcrum 3 with a blue tacx tyre for my turbo / rollers
The Tiagra cassette will still need a spacer on an 11 speed wheel. I know as that's the exact set up I'm using for my turbo bike - Tacx tyre too, although Shimano R010 wheels so not an exact match 0 -
Some wheels are 11 sp. Some are 10/11 sp and in some cases even 9/10/11 sp compatible. In each case the need for a spacer varies. On a fulcrum 3 10/11 compatible shimano freehub you don't need a spacer. This is my setup and it also works perfect without a hitch.0
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I've been swapping tyres on and off for the last 2 years. The turbo tyre has a massive flat spot all the way round.
Bit of a faff changing the tyre, sometimes 2/3 times a week but has the benefit of getting bloody fast at swapping tyres for roadside puncture repairs and keeping road tyre pristine, as well as not needing to fork out for a new 11spd wheel.0 -
Of course you don't need to use an old wheel, just a wheel you aren't using on the road for an extended period and can keep a training/turbo tyre on.
If you have a set of training/winter wheels as well as a set of summer/race wheels you can use the good rear wheel on the trainer during the winter (as long as it isn't a tub). So you could use this as an excuse to buy a bling set of new wheels... :evil:
Best solution is to have two bikes and use the summer bike on the turbo during the winter..0 -
I strip down, clean and overhaul my summer bike over the winter. Three bikes?Best solution is to have two bikes and use the summer bike on the turbo during the winter..
Or, as I said earlier, an old wheel with worn rims which I daren't take out on the road, and tyres that I don't like.The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.0 -
Of course you don't need to use an old wheel, just a wheel you aren't using on the road for an extended period and can keep a training/turbo tyre on.
If you have a set of training/winter wheels as well as a set of summer/race wheels you can use the good rear wheel on the trainer during the winter (as long as it isn't a tub). So you could use this as an excuse to buy a bling set of new wheels... :evil:
Best solution is to have two bikes and use the summer bike on the turbo during the winter..
Some people don't have the disposable income to throw at bikes or bike stuff and have to deal with what they can. Again using a tyre on a turbo then out on the road is not a good idea for reasons we have already mentioned. It doesn't matter if its a winter or summer tyre the metal roller on a turbo can square off a tyre pretty quickly making it crap handling on the road.0 -
Well, the OP doesn't mention his disposable income, he might be limited by that or he might be a beginner who doesn't yet realise that he's eventually going to end up spending more money on bike stuff...
Some people don't have the disposable income to throw at bikes or bike stuff and have to deal with what they can. Again using a tyre on a turbo then out on the road is not a good idea for reasons we have already mentioned. It doesn't matter if its a winter or summer tyre the metal roller on a turbo can square off a tyre pretty quickly making it crap handling on the road.
Just making the point that getting a cheap wheel specifically for the turbo may be a false economy if you're eventually going to end up with more than one set of wheels anyway, and if you see yourself being in that position in the near future it might be better to bring forward the purchase. If you have good wheels and training wheels it makes sense to keep the good ones indoors during the winter and use the rear on the turbo with a turbo specific tyre on it.
But if a turbo wheel is required and 10sp/11sp is the issue another option might be to get an old 10sp wheel and swap the freewheel for an 11sp one if it's available for that wheel (the campag 11sp freewheels at least should fit old wheels, but I think the shimano & sram ones need newer wheels with more space on the drive side?) <*edit - of course with campag wheels you don't need an 11sp freewheel, just an 11sp cassette which will fit on a 10sp freewheel (and you can use a campag 11sp cassette with a shimano or sram 11sp drivetrain)*>0
