Are cable disc brakes really this rubbish?

kajjal

I find hydraulic discs very easy to set up so they work properly without rubbing. The first time it is a change from rim brakes but easy enough. For many on road bikes disc brakes are very different which causes confusion but in reality very simple. As with anything buy cheap either suffer or buy twice.

luv2ride

Having read on Road CC that Park do a post mount facing tool, I'm going to see if any of the LBS round here can do my Pro6 frame. Getting the TRP Spyres set up and centered does seem to take a considerable amount of luck on that bike. TRP Hylex (hydraulics) on my other bike seem a lot easier in comparison.

6wheels

I had the same trouble with my Spyres on the rear mount, getting them horizontal parallel was easy, but vertically wasn't. I used some packing pieces to correct the tilt and all has been good since.

vrsmatt

Trp Spyres are good, others less so IME. I'd make sure they are set up per the manufacturer instructions and use proper compressionless cable outers from Jagwire. Bed them in properly and they're good in my experience.

luv2ride

Luv2ride wrote:

Having read on Road CC that Park do a post mount facing tool, I'm going to see if any of the LBS round here can do my Pro6 frame. Getting the TRP Spyres set up and centered does seem to take a considerable amount of luck on that bike. TRP Hylex (hydraulics) on my other bike seem a lot easier in comparison.

The couple of LBS I contacted don't have the facing tool Thankfully the alignment of the Spyres are "ok" at the minute, but went out on the carbon bike with rim brakes on Saturday - SRAM Force 10sp Gruppo with alu rims - blimey, those rim brakes are great by comparison :shock:

Mach_6

I'm running Avid BB7 SL on my cross bike and they need a bit of bedding in, but once they're done they bite well and modulate nicely. Frankly if you want brakes to lock up instantly you're just going to lose traction and skid with 32-40C width tyres anyway.

If you're going to race your cross bike, no one has ever said "I wish I could slow down more".......

iron-clover

I've finally got myself a 'cross bike, naturally with disks (cheap promax cable ones) so even with limited miles on them so far I can safely say that they do have bags more power than calliper brakes. Combined with the 35C tyres they put an awful lot of braking force through to the road- about the same as the vee brakes on my hybrid although much better modulation.
I'm not sure how much better they would be than well set up callipers with skinny tyres with their smaller contact patch as I haven't tried it yet, but they do seem easier to modulate so far. However, for a lightweight rider like me I can't say their performance has blown me away- perhaps better pads or a better calliper (such as BB7) would impress me more.

ugo.santalucia

Luv2ride wrote:

Having read on Road CC that Park do a post mount facing tool, I'm going to see if any of the LBS round here can do my Pro6 frame. Getting the TRP Spyres set up and centered does seem to take a considerable amount of luck on that bike. TRP Hylex (hydraulics) on my other bike seem a lot easier in comparison.

I always fit a 1 mm washer between the post mount and the caliper to even out the contact... it does improve things and generally you don't sacrifice much (or any at all) contact surface between the pad and the rotor.
Also, the bolt need to be fitted with the cup/cone washers, so you do need those and you do need long bolts. TRP do not supply those. This is how I do it (although here you cannot see the washer between the caliper and the post mount)

luv2ride

ugo.santalucia wrote:

Luv2ride wrote:

Having read on Road CC that Park do a post mount facing tool, I'm going to see if any of the LBS round here can do my Pro6 frame. Getting the TRP Spyres set up and centered does seem to take a considerable amount of luck on that bike. TRP Hylex (hydraulics) on my other bike seem a lot easier in comparison.

I always fit a 1 mm washer between the post mount and the caliper to even out the contact... it does improve things and generally you don't sacrifice much (or any at all) contact surface between the pad and the rotor.
Also, the bolt need to be fitted with the cup/cone washers, so you do need those and you do need long bolts. TRP do not supply those. This is how I do it (although here you cannot see the washer between the caliper and the post mount)

Thanks Ugo. Hadn't looked at this thread for a while so missed the post. So, 1mm washer between caliper and post mount, and cup/cone washers (I.e like the ones found on Avid hydro brakes, or on rim brakes?) between the bolt head and caliper? And get some long bolts. May just try that. The Spyres seem to be behaving at the moment, but the rear still isn't "right". Nowhere near the same power as my Hylex's (which are just awesome), or my Force rim brakes.

EDIT: just idly browsing the 'bay and saw a nice Boardman CXR bike with TRP Spyres. Owner (or supplying shop) seems to have taken the same approach of using the 'cup and cone' washers. Definitely going to give it a go after sourcing some longer bolts...

iron-clover

Rather than start a new thread I thought I'd post in here-
This morning I did my usual short commute through the local lanes in the heavy rain- I've not seen the surface water (and some deep puddles) so bad in the last year of this commute.

I found my stock Promax cable disks on my CaadX failed miserably to cope with the conditions, being at least as bad as my rim brakes (if anything a little worse!) to clear of water and bite, and even with long clearing braking for the whole ride in I had no real feel or modulation. The screams from the brakes were also pretty bad!

On the way home without the rain or standing water it was back to business as usual.

Has anyone else suffered from this with their disks? I'm wondering if the pads/ rotors may be contaminated with something as I've centred them properly and adjust the pads regularly. That or they're just a bit naff.

Cheers!

luv2ride

Rained all morning on my ride and the lanes were greasy and mucky after reasonably dry weather all week However, my TRP Spyes were bang on. I was pretty surprised as I'd been plagued with crappy braking (as described earlier in this thread). I tried I'd the "hack" described by Ugo above and using the cone washers has literally transformed the braking performance. Now quiet, effective and no pulsing.

pbassred

My Boardman CX team has Avid BB5s juddery. My TREX DS8.3 has Tectro Novela. Much better. Both mechanical disks. I don't know why the boardman is so below par. It was serviced a few weeks ago

On_What

I've moved away from sintered pads on BB7s, just cannot get them to work without howling when wet. The organics are much better and don't wear that much quicker IMO.

ugo.santalucia

FInally managed to fit the Jagwire road pro XL cable to the front HyRD... it feels really really good now, with all the sponginess gone, don't think I'll feel the urge to go full hydro anytime soon

meanredspider

ugo.santalucia wrote:

FInally managed to fit the Jagwire road pro XL cable to the front HyRD... it feels really really good now, with all the sponginess gone, don't think I'll feel the urge to go full hydro anytime soon

I got some (of the last?) Gore Ride-Ons for my HyRds when I fitted them and they're really nice. No retrofitting hydros here either.