Tools needed for bike build
Comments
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Thi is the frame
http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/FRPXRT58AFS/planet-x-rt-58-alloy-road-frameset
This is the BB
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-tiagra-bb-rs500-bottom-bracket-cups/?sku=5360714193 (my order history shows English thread)
Both sides are marked with L and R and a tighten direction.
Should glide in no probs. Think you may need to get in touch with PX about the issue. I wouldn't attempt to force it. A BB should thread in and sit flush with very little effort. If its not going in straight and the bb matches it looks like a thread issue inside the shell0 -
Tosh.
Mark on steerer where you want to cut.
Get old stem and clamp in place.
Cut along top of old stem to get perfect flat cut in right place.
Total "tooling" cost (even though you aren't actually tooling up): nothing.zilch. Rien. Pas de tout. Nada. Niente. Vattene a bordo Capitano.
Whats he gonna cut it with smart ars*? Dental floss? Edge of his hand with a karate chop?
If he has no hack saw with the correct guage blade then I'm sure there is one extra cost. And I have lost count of the amount of times I have seen people cut a steerer too short or splinter the tube from bad cutting technique. Do either and you have f#@ked up your fork beyond repair. For the sake of a few quid get a shop to do it. Will probablycost about the same as a hacksaw blade anyway. Plus you should still get a fit before cutting.
Its not exactly difficult smarty pants: go to B & Q and get a hacksaw. £5 or so. Some blades - maybe £3 or so. Shock - horror - maybe even borrow one from a friend and just buy a blade. Its a hacksaw, not a light sabre.
Bizarrely, in cutting lots of carbon steerers, I've only ever used normal blades and nothing exploded on me yet.
Cut carefully.
Its a piece of carbon tube, not the Space Shuttle. Be careful and its fine.
Do you honestly think all bike mechanics are artisan trained afficionados of the art of cutting a carbon tube? Well, they aren't - they're just normal blokes and girls who look at things at take their time.
As an aside, how many times have you seen steerers cut too short or splintered? in all my years of seeing and doing this I have seen, oooohhh, none. Perhaps even none. Partly because the people I know who do this stuff actually take their time over doing it.
Stop trying to make people think this stuff is difficult - it isn't.
Now, if he did karate chop it, a la Kung Fu Panda, that would be freakingly incredibly cool.
Ref fitting - why? The bike currently has spacers above and below (I presume) the stem.
Take and add as he wants, then when its all comfy and as he wants it, then cut. No need for a fitting.
Now I'm just waiting for someone to put a post on saying that they would never cut a steerer because if at sometime random point in time they may want to sell the bike they may lose the possible imaginary sae due to the cut steerer.Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
Thi is the frame
http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/FRPXRT58AFS/planet-x-rt-58-alloy-road-frameset
This is the BB
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-tiagra-bb-rs500-bottom-bracket-cups/?sku=5360714193 (my order history shows English thread)
Both sides are marked with L and R and a tighten direction.
Should glide in no probs. Think you may need to get in touch with PX about the issue. I wouldn't attempt to force it. A BB should thread in and sit flush with very little effort. If its not going in straight and the bb matches it looks like a thread issue inside the shell
Sounds like the frame BB needs facing - LBS for that, and get them to chase the bb threads at the same time.0 -
Thi is the frame
http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/FRPXRT58AFS/planet-x-rt-58-alloy-road-frameset
This is the BB
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-tiagra-bb-rs500-bottom-bracket-cups/?sku=5360714193 (my order history shows English thread)
Both sides are marked with L and R and a tighten direction.
Should glide in no probs. Think you may need to get in touch with PX about the issue. I wouldn't attempt to force it. A BB should thread in and sit flush with very little effort. If its not going in straight and the bb matches it looks like a thread issue inside the shell
Sounds like the frame BB needs facing - LBS for that, and get them to chase the bb threads at the same time.
Is an option. But with a brand new unbuilt frame I would be demanding a replacement from Planet X.0 -
Tosh.
Mark on steerer where you want to cut.
Get old stem and clamp in place.
Cut along top of old stem to get perfect flat cut in right place.
Total "tooling" cost (even though you aren't actually tooling up): nothing.zilch. Rien. Pas de tout. Nada. Niente. Vattene a bordo Capitano.
Whats he gonna cut it with smart ars*? Dental floss? Edge of his hand with a karate chop?
If he has no hack saw with the correct guage blade then I'm sure there is one extra cost. And I have lost count of the amount of times I have seen people cut a steerer too short or splinter the tube from bad cutting technique. Do either and you have f#@ked up your fork beyond repair. For the sake of a few quid get a shop to do it. Will probablycost about the same as a hacksaw blade anyway. Plus you should still get a fit before cutting.
Its not exactly difficult smarty pants: go to B & Q and get a hacksaw. £5 or so. Some blades - maybe £3 or so. Shock - horror - maybe even borrow one from a friend and just buy a blade. Its a hacksaw, not a light sabre.
Bizarrely, in cutting lots of carbon steerers, I've only ever used normal blades and nothing exploded on me yet.
Cut carefully.
Its a piece of carbon tube, not the Space Shuttle. Be careful and its fine.
Do you honestly think all bike mechanics are artisan trained afficionados of the art of cutting a carbon tube? Well, they aren't - they're just normal blokes and girls who look at things at take their time.
As an aside, how many times have you seen steerers cut too short or splintered? in all my years of seeing and doing this I have seen, oooohhh, none. Perhaps even none. Partly because the people I know who do this stuff actually take their time over doing it.
Stop trying to make people think this stuff is difficult - it isn't.
Now, if he did karate chop it, a la Kung Fu Panda, that would be freakingly incredibly cool.
Ref fitting - why? The bike currently has spacers above and below (I presume) the stem.
Take and add as he wants, then when its all comfy and as he wants it, then cut. No need for a fitting.
Now I'm just waiting for someone to put a post on saying that they would never cut a steerer because if at sometime random point in time they may want to sell the bike they may lose the possible imaginary sae due to the cut steerer.
Im not sure you are actually even reading this thread before you even comment. THE BIKE HAS NOT BEEN BUILT YET! THIS IS WHAT HE IS DOING NOW! To that end he won't have any spacers on the steerer yet. Chances are it will need cutting before use anyway. There wont be a few spacers length only. Forks don't come on pre builds like that. You nearly always get about half a foot of tube at the top for you to choose your length.
It has not been built. Never ridden so how the hell is going to know how long he wants it before cutting? Yes it is simple. I have done it myself plenty of times and if it saves money and you are confident go for it. But the way the build is going with regards to a bb issue I wouldn't go head on into things like cutting steerers.0 -
I would wager it's something I'm doing wrong rather than going straight for a replacement frame.0
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I would wager it's something I'm doing wrong rather than going straight for a replacement frame.
Have you another bike with the same thread you can try the bb on? If you can get one side in but not the other then you are doing it right or neither side would go in. It has to be the frame or the BB itself. If it were the bb it would have an obvious deformity in the thread. Hence trying it in another bike to narrow down where the fault is0 -
No my other is a press fit.
I did manage to get the RHS on. But only after about 30 minutes of trial and error and I've still no idea why it went on that time and not on the previous 40 times.
The left hand side wasn't having any of it at all in the end I took the RHS out in case the connecting tube was in the way but still won't go in straight.0 -
This is what I would do. Take it to a bike shop and get them to try another bb in it. If it goes in job done. It the other bb does the same thing get Planet X to exchange the frame. This shouldn't happen on a brand new bike. If you want the shop to recut the threads I would check with PX on warranty issues before doing anything else. It isnot worth leaving yourself with unnecessary costs cos of a potentially damaged frame.0
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I've had another go. RHS went in again no bother. LHS wasn't having any of it. No matter what way it's screwed in it ends up with the bottom screwed in more than the top, that is the face of it is pointing downwards. And that's without getting as far as using the tool.0
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Tosh.
Mark on steerer where you want to cut.
Get old stem and clamp in place.
Cut along top of old stem to get perfect flat cut in right place.
Total "tooling" cost (even though you aren't actually tooling up): nothing.zilch. Rien. Pas de tout. Nada. Niente. Vattene a bordo Capitano.
Whats he gonna cut it with smart ars*? Dental floss? Edge of his hand with a karate chop?
If he has no hack saw with the correct guage blade then I'm sure there is one extra cost. And I have lost count of the amount of times I have seen people cut a steerer too short or splinter the tube from bad cutting technique. Do either and you have f#@ked up your fork beyond repair. For the sake of a few quid get a shop to do it. Will probablycost about the same as a hacksaw blade anyway. Plus you should still get a fit before cutting.
Its not exactly difficult smarty pants: go to B & Q and get a hacksaw. £5 or so. Some blades - maybe £3 or so. Shock - horror - maybe even borrow one from a friend and just buy a blade. Its a hacksaw, not a light sabre.
Bizarrely, in cutting lots of carbon steerers, I've only ever used normal blades and nothing exploded on me yet.
Cut carefully.
Its a piece of carbon tube, not the Space Shuttle. Be careful and its fine.
Do you honestly think all bike mechanics are artisan trained afficionados of the art of cutting a carbon tube? Well, they aren't - they're just normal blokes and girls who look at things at take their time.
As an aside, how many times have you seen steerers cut too short or splintered? in all my years of seeing and doing this I have seen, oooohhh, none. Perhaps even none. Partly because the people I know who do this stuff actually take their time over doing it.
Stop trying to make people think this stuff is difficult - it isn't.
Now, if he did karate chop it, a la Kung Fu Panda, that would be freakingly incredibly cool.
Ref fitting - why? The bike currently has spacers above and below (I presume) the stem.
Take and add as he wants, then when its all comfy and as he wants it, then cut. No need for a fitting.
Now I'm just waiting for someone to put a post on saying that they would never cut a steerer because if at sometime random point in time they may want to sell the bike they may lose the possible imaginary sae due to the cut steerer.
Im not sure you are actually even reading this thread before you even comment. THE BIKE HAS NOT BEEN BUILT YET! THIS IS WHAT HE IS DOING NOW! To that end he won't have any spacers on the steerer yet. Chances are it will need cutting before use anyway. There wont be a few spacers length only. Forks don't come on pre builds like that. You nearly always get about half a foot of tube at the top for you to choose your length.
It has not been built. Never ridden so how the hell is going to know how long he wants it before cutting? Yes it is simple. I have done it myself plenty of times and if it saves money and you are confident go for it. But the way the build is going with regards to a bb issue I wouldn't go head on into things like cutting steerers.
Why are you shouting Mr Pink Jumper? I don't understand why you are so angry.
I think if you read your own post you will answer your own comments reference fork length.
And yes, I do have an uncut Planet X fork in the loft so can see and do know the length it comes down at.Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
Re: the discussion regarding the steerer. Assuming that I have to take the bike into the LBS for the BB which looks likely now. I may as well get them to cut the steerer and and install the headset.
If I was to measure my current bike from the front axle to the top cap would that give them a good length to cut to? My intention is to replicate the fit of my other bike as closely as possible as I've had a bike fit for that bike.0 -
I'd do that but leave a couple of spacers length on - this means that you can make final adjustments by swapping spacers from over and under the stem - this will allow compensation for any changes in geometry/frame sizing between bikes.
If you don't have any, just explain to the LBS what you're planning and if they can lend you some 2mm spacers from the big box of spares everyone has: ride around for a while until you're comfy then cut away.
Who knows - it may be that you get the perfect set up first time round but at least this way you can have a play.Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
Managed to get the bottom bracket tapped at the LBS, apparently it was missing the start and finish part of the threads, so no way would it have ever gone in! Somewhat reassuring it wasn't my fault!
The rest of the build has gone reasonably. Installing the cabling was a bit of a learning experience, remembering that the shifters had to be in their lowest setting before installing the cables (duh!) and that for some reason the shifting doesn't work while the hoods are peeled back (?).
There were cables supplied with the shifters which I used but I must have gotten them mixed up as the rear mech cable ended up too short, so I had to redo that, thankfully I had already bought a spare Shimano Packets Dinners, I mean, cable set
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Managed to get it (almost) indexed too, which was surprise, normally when I try that something goes horribly wrong!
It's got to go to the LBS next to get the steerer cut and headset installed. I may or may not hook up the brake cables!
(seatpost is backwards there, since corrected!)0 -
Looking good.0
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Looking very cool - very good work. Packet Dinners always handy
Cable up the brakes and set them up - really simple to do. Leave the 'bars untaped until you have the steerer done and the brifters set up to exactly where you want them then Bob's your uncle.
Park Tools have a good video on bar tape wrapping.
Keep us updated dude.Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
Cable up the brakes and set them up - really simple to do. Leave the 'bars untaped until you have the steerer done and the brifters set up to exactly where you want them then Bob's your uncle.
Yeah I will do, it's not a big priority since brakes are useless on a turbo, but I'll do it before the bar tape goes on, just for completeness.Park Tools have a good video on bar tape wrapping.
Cheers, I was going to get the LBS to do it but I've done this much myself I might as well learn that too.
One question, is there a practical limit as to how much steerer you can have above the headtube? I measured up against my other bike and had to move the stem up quite a bit compared to what's in that pic, does it matter or am I going to be looking at having it lower with a bit of a rise on the stem instead?0 -
Looking very cool - very good work. Packet Dinners always handy
Cable up the brakes and set them up - really simple to do. Leave the 'bars untaped until you have the steerer done and the brifters set up to exactly where you want them then Bob's your uncle.
Park Tools have a good video on bar tape wrapping.
Keep us updated dude.
Make sure you have your bars setup for height and reach before setting the brakes. If you cut the cables too short they can pull the brakes on the rear as you steer. Best to get your position right before doing anything where you need to cut things like cables etc.0 -
Cable up the brakes and set them up - really simple to do. Leave the 'bars untaped until you have the steerer done and the brifters set up to exactly where you want them then Bob's your uncle.
Yeah I will do, it's not a big priority since brakes are useless on a turbo, but I'll do it before the bar tape goes on, just for completeness.Park Tools have a good video on bar tape wrapping.
Cheers, I was going to get the LBS to do it but I've done this much myself I might as well learn that too.
One question, is there a practical limit as to how much steerer you can have above the headtube? I measured up against my other bike and had to move the stem up quite a bit compared to what's in that pic, does it matter or am I going to be looking at having it lower with a bit of a rise on the stem instead?
Re spacers above head tube - none really that I can think of (caveat being don't have 2 1/2 meters of it) - an inch or two shouldn't really be a problem methinks - have a flick through Your Bikes or whatever it's called and you'll see people with varying amounts of spacers under them.
Generally one 5mm spacer or preferably nothing on top of the stem to minimize potential gooch injury should you fall off though.Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
Build is finished!
But I do still have a problem.
On the turbo with my Scott CR1 which has a carbon frame it was all pretty quiet, no louder than my fans but with this Planet X aluminium frame it sounds like I'm riding a motorbike when at speed! I've calibrated using the app and even tried using the same back wheel and tyre, same result.
I've made a short video with first the noise from my Scott and second the noise from my Planet X.
http://youtu.be/wkmAVz2fRPg
Note the noise in that video is partly from not properly indexed gear. It isn't the clicking I'm referring to but the whirring noise.
Any ideas what's going on and if it's fixable?0 -
Build is finished!
But I do still have a problem.
On the turbo with my Scott CR1 which has a carbon frame it was all pretty quiet, no louder than my fans but with this Planet X aluminium frame it sounds like I'm riding a motorbike when at speed! I've calibrated using the app and even tried using the same back wheel and tyre, same result.
I've made a short video with first the noise from my Scott and second the noise from my Planet X.
http://youtu.be/wkmAVz2fRPg
Note the noise in that video is partly from not properly indexed gear. It isn't the clicking I'm referring to but the whirring noise.
Any ideas what's going on and if it's fixable?
Are you using the same wheel on both bikes? Could be the vibration through an alu frame resonates more.0 -
Are you using the same wheel on both bikes?
The one shown and in the video is a new wheel, but I get the same result if I swap the wheels over between the bikes.Could be the vibration through an alu frame resonates more.
Quite possibly, is there anything that can be done, except for sacking it off and getting a carbon frame!0 -
Noticed that the wheel is tracking significantly to the left compared to my other bike which is dead centre.0 -
Sorted it. Swapped the QR around so that the tyre centres on the roller. And cleaned off the large bit of melted on rubber from the previous bike which was what was making the vibration noise. All works well now.
Just have to sort out my clicky gears, route the front mech cable *through* the BB cable guide rather than over it (duh!) and tidy up all the piles of junk I've left in the spare bedroom!0 -
Have to say that, despite the bike being kept inside, the chain still ends up turning black is rather annoying to say the least :laugh:0
