Tools needed for bike build
markhewitt1978
Posts: 7,614
I'm building up a bike after Christmas - mostly for turbo use but may see the occasional outside winter role.
I'm building up from this frameset http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/FRPXRT58AFS/planet-x-rt-58-alloy-road-frameset
I think I have all the parts I need but previous experience I've often been twarted by a lack of a specific tool; since I'm building an entire bike I'll probably need all of the tools
The below is what I have or am about to get, is there anything else I'm likely to need?
Allen keys - For most things
Torque wrench set - with various sized allen keys
Cable cutters - For cutting the gear brake cables to size
Shimano cassette tool - Installing the cassette
Chain whip (not needed for install but still)
Adjustable spanner - Installing the cassette
Chain tool - Installing the crankset
Bottom bracket spanner - For the bottom bracket!
Pedal spanner - For the pedals!
I'm building up from this frameset http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/FRPXRT58AFS/planet-x-rt-58-alloy-road-frameset
I think I have all the parts I need but previous experience I've often been twarted by a lack of a specific tool; since I'm building an entire bike I'll probably need all of the tools
The below is what I have or am about to get, is there anything else I'm likely to need?
Allen keys - For most things
Torque wrench set - with various sized allen keys
Cable cutters - For cutting the gear brake cables to size
Shimano cassette tool - Installing the cassette
Chain whip (not needed for install but still)
Adjustable spanner - Installing the cassette
Chain tool - Installing the crankset
Bottom bracket spanner - For the bottom bracket!
Pedal spanner - For the pedals!
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Comments
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Do a search on here - it's a very, very frequent topic that comes up - searches will also produce links to best priced options.Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
I've searched back for the previous year but only found which toolkit is best, which is not what I'm really asking.0
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Having had a chain whip in the past and swapped for this tool from Decathlon, I'd never go back to a chain whip #skinnedknuckles0
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It's a very minor thing but I have found these items invaluable when cutting and fitting new cable outers
A hook and pick set
http://www.sealantsandtoolsdirect.co.uk/manufacturers/silverline_tools_and_products/mixed_items/silverline_pick_and_hook_tool_4_piece_set_427723_P28659.html?gclid=CjwKEAiAkb-zBRC2upezwuyguQ4SJADZG08vSXWDAvS0hh9b_GPN760CNji2mk_wWa5JGwsw9oaGKBoCMofw_wcB
and some mini profiled files:-
http://www.screwfix.com/p/forge-steel-needle-file-set-150mm-6-pieces/1402C?kpid=1402C&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&cm_mmc=Google-_-Shopping%20-%20Hand%20Tools-_-Shopping%20-%20Hand%20Tools&gclid=CjwKEAiAkb-zBRC2upezwuyguQ4SJADZG08vLBM2h97QaTCdQjMKW_Dt8uj8wd0vCD5sUlxc-reX2BoCbRXw_wcB
I reckon no matter how good your cable cutters are there is always the occasion when the cable outer gets a bit crushed or there is a little bit of a burr left just where it might snag the inner cable.
These can easily be dealt with use the mini picks to open up the crushed cable and/or the mini files to remove metal burrs.
One word of warning tho' - don't be tempted to use the mini round file to open up the outer or remove a burr from the inside edge of the outer cable. Seems that the spiraled metal inner of the cable grips like a fiend to the rough surface of the file and the thing gets stuck there (at least mine did). Didn't want to cut any more from the outer so spent about 10 mins wrestling with the file before it eventually came free.0 -
Having had a chain whip in the past and swapped for this tool from Decathlon, I'd never go back to a chain whip #skinnedknuckles
Genius! Chain whip is one tool I do have already of course and I won't need it anyway
Only other thing I can think is a headset press? Will I need one of those? Not something I'll use often I'm sure but if I can get away without having to get the LBS involved so much the better.0 -
Get one of those Decathlon jobbies - you'll wonder why you ever had a chain whip
To tempt you - they've even opened up on the Team Valley.0 -
Get one of those Decathlon jobbies - you'll wonder why you ever had a chain whip
To tempt you - they've even opened up on the Team Valley.
Ah so it is the valley after all! Mind you, not going anywhere near that place just before Christmas!0 -
Came as a surprise to me (mind it was always a surprise that there wasn't one somewhere in Tyneside/Wearside when there was one at both ends of the M8) that one had sneakily opened.0
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I'm building up a bike after Christmas - mostly for turbo use but may see the occasional outside winter role.
I'm building up from this frameset http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/FRPXRT58AFS/planet-x-rt-58-alloy-road-frameset
I think I have all the parts I need but previous experience I've often been twarted by a lack of a specific tool; since I'm building an entire bike I'll probably need all of the tools
The below is what I have or am about to get, is there anything else I'm likely to need?
Allen keys - For most things
Torque wrench set - with various sized allen keys
Cable cutters - For cutting the gear brake cables to size
Shimano cassette tool - Installing the cassette
Chain whip (not needed for install but still)
Adjustable spanner - Installing the cassette
Chain tool - Installing the crankset
Bottom bracket spanner - For the bottom bracket!
Pedal spanner - For the pedals!
I would add
Bottlenose pliers - pulling cables onto pinch bolts ie brakes and derailleurs
Rubber mallet - knocking chainset through BB
A decent torx head set - anything from pedals to stem bolts and chain rings
Grease gun - self explanatory
Chain tool to cut to length
Thing is there are so many different standards out there you could end up needing a specific tool later that you don't need now.0 -
Spirit levels - really small one for seat leveling, larger one for brifters.
Alternative is hard back book on saddle and iPhone spirit level.
Copperslip for things that don't move, normal moly for those that do. Carbon paste as well.
Insulting tape for insulting things.
Thread lock if you think you'll need it.
Small pot of paint and a straw from a can of WD40: pop a dot on the seat post so you have a really inconspicuous point you can start final adjustments from.
Bottle opener and can of beer to celebrate when all done.
Please don't use adjustable so - they funk everything up. Buy a proper spanner - cost a couple of pounds more but a long term investment.
If you're going for a bearing press then chuck in a crown race setting tool - again, a couple of quid but investment for the future.Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
While everything is apart, take this opportunity to grease every small thing up properly to avoid hassle 5 years down the line: barrel nuts where the brakes attach, the small bolts that hold the brake pads on, chai ring bolts, seta clamp bolts :inc this the hold the seat the seat post), stem bolts, dérailleur cable clamp bolts, bottle cage bolts - remembered that none of this stuff will come with any/sufficient grease from the manufacturer.
Plenty of Copperslip on pedals threads, b/b area, carbon paste on bars and seat post if they are carbon, dismantle the small twiddly adjuster things that the cable go into the rakes and Copperslip them.
Essentially, anything and everything.
It's calming, soothing, stick on some chilled out sounds and its kinda karmic. Like yoga, but with the yoga.Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
Good advice? And tip on the best types of grease to use?
Am I going to need to buy barrel adjusters? Presumably I am?
As far as cabling goes I have this http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-road-gear-cable-set-with-ptfe-inner-cable/?sku=5360446440 but that's all.0 -
Good advice? And tip on the best types of grease to use?
Am I going to need to buy barrel adjusters? Presumably I am?
As far as cabling goes I have this http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-road-gear-cable-set-with-ptfe-inner-cable/?sku=5360446440 but that's all.
Ignore all "bicycle specific" greases - they are all the same.
Head down to motor factor and get a tin of Copperslip for things that don't move (also called anti seize because it grease with a high copper content, so will prevent seizing but the small copper granules make it slightly abrasive - however at the same time the small granules make things stick together whilst preventing corrosion, perfect for Ali to Ali or Ali to steel surface (ie seat posts in frames).
Usable on any material at all so no worries about using it on carbon.
Then buy a big tin of normal moly grease for everything else - will stop corrosion and seizing but no use if you want something to stay in place (ie seat post of handlebars in stem) as its, obviously, a lubricant.
Can't open the link on work computer but if they are the Shimano packets dinners and otters then yup - perfect.
When initially fitting, dry fit it - run the cable where you want them to go then mark with a Sharpie where you think you want to cut them. Then move the cables down there, insulting tape them in place and step back - they look good and don't restrict movement then snip away.
With metal ferrules remember to dab some Copperslip on before installation: not only will this hold them in place while you're faffing but will stop them seizing in place.
Yup - you'll need to buy barrel adjusters - remember to take apart and Copperslip. Same with the small plastic bracket that sits under the frame to guide the mech cables (if you are going external cabling). Big glob of Copperslip in the hole where it screws into as this will get the most road cack on it.
Take your time with all this - it's all really good fun. I build bikes of a turbo trainer (I have a work stand as well but prefer to build on a turbo trainer as I can walk around the bike and prefer leaning down to stuff, it's personal peer fence.
Leave cable long until it's all done - small adjustments/re-routing can take up ridiculous amounts of cable.
Final touches really matter- cut the cables nice and short a la PRO and fix the cable ends nice and tight (gentle application of wire cutters- enough to crimp but not cut).
Do all bolts up gently - no 1/2 inch breaker bars.
Most of all, take it your time. It's incredibly simple and so satisfying. Personalize it if you want - European style brake set up, anything you want to make it your bike lookswise or comfort wise. Bugger everyone else, it's your toy.
Post on here if you have any problems.Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
Thanks dude, some good advice there, I'll take a look at the copperslip stuff. Not sure what "Shimano packets dinners" is sorry!
The original idea was just to get a bike which I can use on the turbo to avoid having to faff about changing the wheel over on my good bike. But it's turned more into a project in finally learning properly about how everything fits together on a bike as I've been too quick to run to the LBS in the past. So I guess no better way than putting everything together from scratch, although with it being a turbo bike it means if, say, the crank falls off, I might lose a turbo session but I won't be stuck 20 miles from home!
That said although it's job is for turbo training I reckon it makes most sense to build it up fully now, ready for outside use, complete with the likes of brake callipers (which you don't use on a turbo obviously). Then if I find the need to use this bike outside it's ready to go rather than needing a heap of work done to it first.0 -
Thanks dude, some good advice there, I'll take a look at the copperslip stuff. Not sure what "Shimano packets dinners" is sorry!
The original idea was just to get a bike which I can use on the turbo to avoid having to faff about changing the wheel over on my good bike. But it's turned more into a project in finally learning properly about how everything fits together on a bike as I've been too quick to run to the LBS in the past. So I guess no better way than putting everything together from scratch, although with it being a turbo bike it means if, say, the crank falls off, I might lose a turbo session but I won't be stuck 20 miles from home!
That said although it's job is for turbo training I reckon it makes most sense to build it up fully now, ready for outside use, complete with the likes of brake callipers (which you don't use on a turbo obviously). Then if I find the need to use this bike outside it's ready to go rather than needing a heap of work done to it first.
Shimano packet dinners !!!! Arrrrrrgggghhh stupid iPad self correct thing! Probably meant to say something like Shimano packet of cables or similar!Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
I'm guessing Shimano "dinners and otters" was "inners and outers" unless I did something seriously wrong on my bike builds
When buying your cables don't forget ferrules, cable ends and the little clamps to secure cables to the frame if you need them0 -
Fatdaz is correct. My works computer has now been shot. And you think I'm joking ....
Also remember helicopter tape or clear fablon to cut into strips to put under the cables to prevent cable run and duffed paint on new frame.Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
Is the Otter essential? Because I've seen them in Lakeland zoo and they were pretty loud!0
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Is the Otter essential? Because I've seen them in Lakeland zoo and they were pretty loud!
Suspect the dinner is to keep the otter quiet...0 -
If you do but an adjustable spanner,buy one made by Bacho they are Swedish and the best you can get,I bought two when i was an apprentice they get used a fair bit and still going strong,now in my early 40's,they can be picked up on ebay at decent prices,cheap ones are CRAP and will ruin bolt heads as will cheap spanners,same as allen keys decent ones will last,but this can be said about most tools,buy cheap buy twice0
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An adjustable spanner has no place in a modern bicycles tool kit. Either use proper sized spanners or take it to a LBS. I wouldn't even use one to remove pedals.
Only exception could be on a bb extraction tool but technically thats not on the bike. Its a tool on another tool.0 -
An adjustable spanner has no place in a modern bicycles tool kit. Either use proper sized spanners or take it to a LBS. I wouldn't even use one to remove pedals.
Only exception could be on a bb extraction tool but technically thats not on the bike. Its a tool on another tool.
I tend to agree but taking anything to your LBS has to be the absolute last resort. It is an admission of failure. I suppose there might be some mitigation if some very expensive, use once,bit of specialist kit is needed.0 -
An adjustable spanner has no place in a modern bicycles tool kit. Either use proper sized spanners or take it to a LBS. I wouldn't even use one to remove pedals.
Only exception could be on a bb extraction tool but technically thats not on the bike. Its a tool on another tool.
I tend to agree but taking anything to your LBS has to be the absolute last resort. It is an admission of failure. I suppose there might be some mitigation if some very expensive, use once,bit of specialist kit is needed.
Taking a bike to your LBS is preferable to fooking up your pride and joy doing a stubborn bodge with an inappropriate tool0 -
Just got it unpacked but haven't had time to do anything with it
http://m.imgur.com/1ZTqFyH
The seat post clamp is the wrong size to start. Seat post is 31.6mm but the 34.9 clamp which was supposed to fit is way too big
Might have to take it to the LBS to cut the steerer although I'd rather not have to but at the same time I don't want to spend £50 on tooling for a one off job when the LBS would do it for a tenner.0 -
Just got it unpacked but haven't had time to do anything with it
http://m.imgur.com/1ZTqFyH
The seat post clamp is the wrong size to start. Seat post is 31.6mm but the 34.9 clamp which was supposed to fit is way too big
Might have to take it to the LBS to cut the steerer although I'd rather not have to but at the same time I don't want to spend £50 on tooling for a one off job when the LBS would do it for a tenner.
First I would recommend you get a bike fit before you cut the steerer. You probably will be tempted to slam it but if it means you end up being unable to get the optimal position it will be for nothing.
Secondly, I would deffo recommend getting a bike shop to cut it. It is a simple enough task to do but you get one shot at it and if you mess it up its gonna be expensive - bike shop messes it bike shop buys you new fork0 -
Tosh.
Mark on steerer where you want to cut.
Get old stem and clamp in place.
Cut along top of old stem to get perfect flat cut in right place.
Total "tooling" cost (even though you aren't actually tooling up): nothing.zilch. Rien. Pas de tout. Nada. Niente. Vattene a bordo Capitano.Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
Tosh.
Mark on steerer where you want to cut.
Get old stem and clamp in place.
Cut along top of old stem to get perfect flat cut in right place.
Total "tooling" cost (even though you aren't actually tooling up): nothing.zilch. Rien. Pas de tout. Nada. Niente. Vattene a bordo Capitano.
Whats he gonna cut it with smart arse? Dental floss? Edge of his hand with a karate chop?
If he has no hack saw with the correct guage blade then I'm sure there is one extra cost. And I have lost count of the amount of times I have seen people cut a steerer too short or splinter the tube from bad cutting technique. Do either and you have f#@ked up your fork beyond repair. For the sake of a few quid get a shop to do it. Will probablycost about the same as a hacksaw blade anyway. Plus you should still get a fit before cutting.0 -
Right well first thing didn't go well. Arrived back at the shop with my BB tool keen to get started but an hour later realised why I hardly ever do bike maintenance.
Basically the external cups just won't go in straight. I hand tighten it a bit then use the BB tool but it always goes out of alignment, usually the bottom part is too far in. Tried everything putting it in gently, trying to bash it in, nothing works always goes out. Actually did manage to get the right side in but had to take it out again because I thought it might be stopping the left side.
What am I doing wrong here?0 -
They are the correct thread ain't they? By that I mean both the bike and cups are English thread? I am sure you are putting left i to left and right into right or you wouldn't get thecthread started. Only other thing I can think of is if the thread has not been cut in properly which would mean re tapping or a new frame. What is the BB are you attempting to put into it? Is it deffo English thread 68mm?0
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This is the frame
http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/FRPXRT58AFS/planet-x-rt-58-alloy-road-frameset
This is the BB
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-tiagra-bb-rs500-bottom-bracket-cups/?sku=5360714193 (my order history shows English thread)
The tool looks like this
http://www.tweekscycles.com/Product.do?method=view&n=3338&p=21838&d=124&c=4&l=2&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=Base&utm_campaign=Tools%20&%20Maintenance&gclid=CjwKEAiAtf6zBRDS0oCLrL37gFUSJACr2JYbMKOw6vt7vr8kSoPqxpsiO2mmAfCubAqBkt_V22N5rxoCPe7w_wcB
I put plenty of grease on first.
Both sides are marked with L and R and a tighten direction.0
