Help: winter bike
Comments
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I'm a happy Ribble Winter owner, mines about 6 years old, so still current spec! Disagree that they aren't nice to ride. I'm able to recreate exactly the same position as my considerably more expensive summer bike and the difference in riding the two is negligible. Main difference is weight has been debated to death as to how much that really matters. Use mine for commuting, winter club runs, light touring, even century rides on it, nothing phases it. If I had to get rid of all but one bike, this is the one I'd keep.
Earlier on in the thread there was the alu v carbon frame what survives better in a crash debate. Ribble solves that for you one as a new frame is about £90. Not that you would replace it- dings give it character.
Yes tyre clearance isn't great which is the major drawback, unless you're a major disk brake fan. Michelin 25s stand no chance, but I use Vitorria with no issues.0 -
I'm a happy Ribble Winter owner, mines about 6 years old, so still current spec! Disagree that they aren't nice to ride. I'm able to recreate exactly the same position as my considerably more expensive summer bike and the difference in riding the two is negligible. Main difference is weight has been debated to death as to how much that really matters. Use mine for commuting, winter club runs, light touring, even century rides on it, nothing phases it. If I had to get rid of all but one bike, this is the one I'd keep.
Earlier on in the thread there was the alu v carbon frame what survives better in a crash debate. Ribble solves that for you one as a new frame is about £90. Not that you would replace it- dings give it character.
Yes tyre clearance isn't great which is the major drawback, unless you're a major disk brake fan. Michelin 25s stand no chance, but I use Vitorria with no issues.
Fair comment, and each to their own...hence why I was careful to include the word "personally", in my comment. I just hated mine. It wasn't the weight I disliked neither. I had one years ago but swapped it for a much heavier steel Kaffenback and it was much nicer to ride.0 -
I wouldn't pick a carbon bike as a winter trainer - you're more prone to having an off on slippy roads and one wrong bang on the frame and its broke.
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That's rubbish, you're just as likely to damage an alloy frame if you stack it. A bent alloy frame is usually toast whereas carbon can be repaired.
But I'd pick none of those. A winter trainer should have clearance / fittings for full mudguards and at least 25mm tyres. Something like a Kinesis Racelight T2 or their Racelight 4S.
If you'll be using it to commute and / or doing a lot of stop - start riding you might want disc brakes too, so something like the Planet X London Road?
An alu fram can take a knock on the frame at survive a lot better than a carbon frame can. I big dent in the top tube will not be catastrophic to the frame intregrity. I know this as I had it happen on an old frame.
If you proper smash up a frame then yes but the types of knocks that can happen from winter riding make the alu more robust.
I see you decend into the usual crap of ignoring the OP and offering YOUR option. Thats not asked so don't offer. Why should winter bike have mud guards? Is it the law? I dont use mudgaurds except an ass saver. I dont ride in big group rides in the wet so I dont need them Besides you can get mudgards that clip on just fine, Why must he want 25m tyres? Why must he want Disc brakes? Are these really essential? No not at all. His choice of three and if he asks other options fine but he doesn't so stick to the 3 put to you.
Also he won't get his 10% discount from CRC with a PX or a kinesis but you read that bit didnt ya?
Is this opinion or fact? If it's a fact, could you provide a source?0 -
An old video and yes, it's a mountain bike and yes, it's a promo video but it does show just how strong a carbon frame is.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xreZdUBqpJs
Edit: Skip to 5 mins in if you can't be arsed to watch all of it.0 -
I wouldn't pick a carbon bike as a winter trainer - you're more prone to having an off on slippy roads and one wrong bang on the frame and its broke.
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That's rubbish, you're just as likely to damage an alloy frame if you stack it. A bent alloy frame is usually toast whereas carbon can be repaired.
But I'd pick none of those. A winter trainer should have clearance / fittings for full mudguards and at least 25mm tyres. Something like a Kinesis Racelight T2 or their Racelight 4S.
If you'll be using it to commute and / or doing a lot of stop - start riding you might want disc brakes too, so something like the Planet X London Road?
An alu fram can take a knock on the frame at survive a lot better than a carbon frame can. I big dent in the top tube will not be catastrophic to the frame intregrity. I know this as I had it happen on an old frame.
If you proper smash up a frame then yes but the types of knocks that can happen from winter riding make the alu more robust.
I see you decend into the usual crap of ignoring the OP and offering YOUR option. Thats not asked so don't offer. Why should winter bike have mud guards? Is it the law? I dont use mudgaurds except an ass saver. I dont ride in big group rides in the wet so I dont need them Besides you can get mudgards that clip on just fine, Why must he want 25m tyres? Why must he want Disc brakes? Are these really essential? No not at all. His choice of three and if he asks other options fine but he doesn't so stick to the 3 put to you.
Also he won't get his 10% discount from CRC with a PX or a kinesis but you read that bit didnt ya?
Is this opinion or fact? If it's a fact, could you provide a source?
Did you read the bit where I said "I know this as I had it happen"
I hit my bike on a metal post on the top tube. It left a golf ball sized dent in the metal. Had no effect on the handling or frame integrity. If it were carbon it would have been a write off0 -
I ran 25mm tyres with guards on a Ribble. Schwalbe Lugano w/ SKS Longboard guards. Never an issue
I have the Dolan Preffisio, which as far as I know is identical to the Ribble Winter. I have no problem with using 25mm Vittoria Pro Tech and SKS Chromoplastics. Fitted them without the need to do any fudging. Rims are Exelights, but you may have issues if you are using a wider rim like Archetypes for example.
If, however, I was buying a winter bike now, I would go for ine that could accept 28mm tyres with 'guards.0 -
I don't get the fascination with 28mm tyres. 25mm will suffice. You want 28+ when your bouncing down the cobbles of the Belgian countryside. Even in the wet of winter you are still only riding on mainly tarmac and concrete.
A 23mm tyre is fine on winter roads so don't get hung up on getting fatter tyres. Yes they are more comfortable but they are not a necessity. Why limit your range for the sake of fitting tyres you don't need?0 -
Because we can?I don't get the fascination with 28mm tyres. 25mm will suffice. You want 28+ when your bouncing down the cobbles of the Belgian countryside. Even in the wet of winter you are still only riding on mainly tarmac and concrete.
A 23mm tyre is fine on winter roads so don't get hung up on getting fatter tyres. Yes they are more comfortable but they are not a necessity.And the people bowed and prayed, to the neon god they made.0 -
Some happy people on here again.
If you want to brake well especially in the wet discs are a good choice, hydraulic are best but good cable ones are fine.
If you want bigger tyres and mudguards then get a bike that fits them.
Its personal choice in the end.0 -
Because we can?I don't get the fascination with 28mm tyres. 25mm will suffice. You want 28+ when your bouncing down the cobbles of the Belgian countryside. Even in the wet of winter you are still only riding on mainly tarmac and concrete.
A 23mm tyre is fine on winter roads so don't get hung up on getting fatter tyres. Yes they are more comfortable but they are not a necessity.
And you leave out the part about limiting yourself for the sake of a tyre. You would happily buy a lesser bike in terms of weight, performance or comfort just so you can add 2mm extra rubber?0 -
I happily bought a disc brake "do it all" bike that I happen to ride both on road and off. I also happily use 28mm tyres and also happily have a spare wheelset with cassette/discs and 30mm CX tyres. I didn't buy a lesser bike ( I also happen to have a 7.6kg disc braked road bike running 25's) I bought the bike for the jobs I wanted it to do and the terrain/surfaces I wanted to ride it on.
Because we can?I don't get the fascination with 28mm tyres. 25mm will suffice. You want 28+ when your bouncing down the cobbles of the Belgian countryside. Even in the wet of winter you are still only riding on mainly tarmac and concrete.
A 23mm tyre is fine on winter roads so don't get hung up on getting fatter tyres. Yes they are more comfortable but they are not a necessity.
And you leave out the part about limiting yourself for the sake of a tyre. You would happily buy a lesser bike in terms of weight, performance or comfort just so you can add 2mm extra rubber?
The limit here, is imagination - of which you appear to have none.And the people bowed and prayed, to the neon god they made.0 -
I happily bought a disc brake "do it all" bike that I happen to ride both on road and off. I also happily use 28mm tyres and also happily have a spare wheelset with cassette/discs and 30mm CX tyres. I didn't buy a lesser bike ( I also happen to have a 7.6kg disc braked road bike running 25's) I bought the bike for the jobs I wanted it to do and the terrain/surfaces I wanted to ride it on.
Because we can?I don't get the fascination with 28mm tyres. 25mm will suffice. You want 28+ when your bouncing down the cobbles of the Belgian countryside. Even in the wet of winter you are still only riding on mainly tarmac and concrete.
A 23mm tyre is fine on winter roads so don't get hung up on getting fatter tyres. Yes they are more comfortable but they are not a necessity.
And you leave out the part about limiting yourself for the sake of a tyre. You would happily buy a lesser bike in terms of weight, performance or comfort just so you can add 2mm extra rubber?
The limit here, is imagination - of which you appear to have none.
Ah. You bought a jack of all trades master of none p.o s. I get it now. Thsts why you throw insults around to make up for the fact you bought a bike which is technically a CX bike. Not really a proper road bike.0 -
I don't actually care if it's a CX bike or a road bike or something in the middle. It fulfills it's purpose.
I happily bought a disc brake "do it all" bike that I happen to ride both on road and off. I also happily use 28mm tyres and also happily have a spare wheelset with cassette/discs and 30mm CX tyres. I didn't buy a lesser bike ( I also happen to have a 7.6kg disc braked road bike running 25's) I bought the bike for the jobs I wanted it to do and the terrain/surfaces I wanted to ride it on.
Because we can?I don't get the fascination with 28mm tyres. 25mm will suffice. You want 28+ when your bouncing down the cobbles of the Belgian countryside. Even in the wet of winter you are still only riding on mainly tarmac and concrete.
A 23mm tyre is fine on winter roads so don't get hung up on getting fatter tyres. Yes they are more comfortable but they are not a necessity.
And you leave out the part about limiting yourself for the sake of a tyre. You would happily buy a lesser bike in terms of weight, performance or comfort just so you can add 2mm extra rubber?
The limit here, is imagination - of which you appear to have none.
Ah. You bought a jack of all trades master of none p.o s. I get it now. Thsts why you throw insults around to make up for the fact you bought a bike which is technically a CX bike. Not really a proper road bike.
You talk about insults yet the quotes say it all.And the people bowed and prayed, to the neon god they made.0 -
I don't actually care if it's a CX bike or a road bike or something in the middle. It fulfills it's purpose.
I happily bought a disc brake "do it all" bike that I happen to ride both on road and off. I also happily use 28mm tyres and also happily have a spare wheelset with cassette/discs and 30mm CX tyres. I didn't buy a lesser bike ( I also happen to have a 7.6kg disc braked road bike running 25's) I bought the bike for the jobs I wanted it to do and the terrain/surfaces I wanted to ride it on.
Because we can?I don't get the fascination with 28mm tyres. 25mm will suffice. You want 28+ when your bouncing down the cobbles of the Belgian countryside. Even in the wet of winter you are still only riding on mainly tarmac and concrete.
A 23mm tyre is fine on winter roads so don't get hung up on getting fatter tyres. Yes they are more comfortable but they are not a necessity.
And you leave out the part about limiting yourself for the sake of a tyre. You would happily buy a lesser bike in terms of weight, performance or comfort just so you can add 2mm extra rubber?
The limit here, is imagination - of which you appear to have none.
Ah. You bought a jack of all trades master of none p.o s. I get it now. Thsts why you throw insults around to make up for the fact you bought a bike which is technically a CX bike. Not really a proper road bike.
You talk about insults yet the quotes say it all.
Good. Good. Let the hatred flow through you.0 -
I don't actually care if it's a CX bike or a road bike or something in the middle. It fulfills it's purpose.
I happily bought a disc brake "do it all" bike that I happen to ride both on road and off. I also happily use 28mm tyres and also happily have a spare wheelset with cassette/discs and 30mm CX tyres. I didn't buy a lesser bike ( I also happen to have a 7.6kg disc braked road bike running 25's) I bought the bike for the jobs I wanted it to do and the terrain/surfaces I wanted to ride it on.
Because we can?I don't get the fascination with 28mm tyres. 25mm will suffice. You want 28+ when your bouncing down the cobbles of the Belgian countryside. Even in the wet of winter you are still only riding on mainly tarmac and concrete.
A 23mm tyre is fine on winter roads so don't get hung up on getting fatter tyres. Yes they are more comfortable but they are not a necessity.
And you leave out the part about limiting yourself for the sake of a tyre. You would happily buy a lesser bike in terms of weight, performance or comfort just so you can add 2mm extra rubber?
The limit here, is imagination - of which you appear to have none.
Ah. You bought a jack of all trades master of none p.o s. I get it now. Thsts why you throw insults around to make up for the fact you bought a bike which is technically a CX bike. Not really a proper road bike.
You talk about insults yet the quotes say it all.
Good. Good. Let the hatred flow through you.
And the people bowed and prayed, to the neon god they made.0 -
To the OP, how about Kinesis 4S?
I'm currently riding a De Rosa Milanino Training which takes proper mudguards. Might be worth a look too.0 -
I've just come back from a 3hr ride on my 4S. Obviously I wish I hadn't as I could have stayed at home and enjoyed the Maglia v Nexxes 'banter' instead. In the IoM we call wet weather bikes, bikes.
Anyway - any bike that takes full mudguards and gives clearance for 23/25s makes a good wet weather/winter trainer. Something with a slightly longer wheel base is a bit more stable in windy conditions I have found as well. There is enough choice and quality out there for £750 that you don't have to compromise on material/weight either. FWIW all of the bikes out in this crappy weather this morning had mudguards and many were actually that Ribble posted earlier.Basso Astra
Principia Ellipse SX
Kinesis Racelight 4S
Kinesis Crosslight Pro Disc0 -
I ride my Gary Fisher Nirvana (hybrid) all the year round for last 8 years or so, originally on 622x35C Specialized semi-slick (inverted thread) tyres.
5 years ago I bought Schwalbe Marathon Winter studded tyres (45-47 mm wide?) which are making a difference (!!) on the ice. Actually, I falled in love with these tyres
I never had mudguards on this bike (actually, I shoud have, but choosing between differendt brands etc. was bothering), but I do not ride bicycle when it's raining (use my car or public transport in such a weather), mostly because I did not find a way to protect my trousers (I mean commuting on purpose, office visiting, etc., not sports training).
Mudguards are not necessary on the snow; they are important on the wet/muded surface. When in trouble, I rode quite slowly to protect my clothes from the splashing dirt. Teflon-coated jacket makes a difference, also rear-protruding Specialized seatpost bag (acting as an a..s protector; wet-ride without that seatpost-bag was suicide experience). But to be honest I'm considering a pair of SKS Bluemmels 29'' for the next autumn/spring time.
There is a lot of salt on the roads where I live (Warsaw, PL), also on pedestrian pavements, so salt is bike enemy no 1 here in the winter.
What suffered after this 8 winter seasons?
Nothing but the bike chain (Shimano IG51 replaced every 4 years because of wear), there were the days you could hear the chain complained. Front derailleur looks rusty & nusty now, but is full operational (cheap Shimano). Brakes (Shimano v-brakes) don't have a new look (there is some electrocorrosion of steel & alluminium). Steel bolts got some yellow-brown tan. That's the look only and that's all. OK, if you want to sell the bike, winter-look hits your pocket.
What I find important, the Shimano non-group hubs are sealed (rubber cups) and I've never serviced them, no need. In a salt season, I water-pressure all the bike (don't save hubs, BB, etc.) with 'liquid wax' programme (local self-service car wash) for 25p/min. when needed (let's say once/twice a month), one/two minutes is enough.
This spring I renewed some of the drivetrain (due to the bended frontchain), fitting the bike with new KMC RustBuster chain (10 quids) and new octalink Shimano BB-ES71 (said to be well sealed).
Before winter I should also service the rear hub (this 'ratcheting' part, forgot proper name), which gets sticky in sub-zero (Celsius) temperatures.
The bike mileage might be in the region of 10.000 km.
Actually, I love snow-riding and ice-riding much better than those boring summer-rides 8)0
