Help: winter bike

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  • inseine
    inseine Posts: 5,788
    Well non of them is what id call a winter bike but they're all good bikes I'm sure.
    The Raleigh only seems to have 23mm tyres and is equipped with SRAM which not everyone likes.
    Can you get mudguards on any of them? That would clinch it for me.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    I wouldn't pick a carbon bike as a winter trainer so not the Raleigh - you're more prone to having an off on slippy roads and one wrong bang on the frame and its broke.

    The Cube Peloton is an ok bike but iffy build quality - I have fixed faults on 4 friends bikes in the last few months. All were reasonably new. All had manufacturers faults.

    That leaves the Giant thats got a decent spec and good reputation.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    I wouldn't pick a carbon bike as a winter trainer - you're more prone to having an off on slippy roads and one wrong bang on the frame and its broke.
    .

    That's rubbish, you're just as likely to damage an alloy frame if you stack it. A bent alloy frame is usually toast whereas carbon can be repaired.

    But I'd pick none of those. A winter trainer should have clearance / fittings for full mudguards and at least 25mm tyres. Something like a Kinesis Racelight T2 or their Racelight 4S.
    If you'll be using it to commute and / or doing a lot of stop - start riding you might want disc brakes too, so something like the Planet X London Road?
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    I wouldn't pick a carbon bike as a winter trainer - you're more prone to having an off on slippy roads and one wrong bang on the frame and its broke.
    .

    That's rubbish, you're just as likely to damage an alloy frame if you stack it. A bent alloy frame is usually toast whereas carbon can be repaired.

    But I'd pick none of those. A winter trainer should have clearance / fittings for full mudguards and at least 25mm tyres. Something like a Kinesis Racelight T2 or their Racelight 4S.
    If you'll be using it to commute and / or doing a lot of stop - start riding you might want disc brakes too, so something like the Planet X London Road?

    An alu fram can take a knock on the frame at survive a lot better than a carbon frame can. I big dent in the top tube will not be catastrophic to the frame intregrity. I know this as I had it happen on an old frame.

    If you proper smash up a frame then yes but the types of knocks that can happen from winter riding make the alu more robust.

    I see you decend into the usual crap of ignoring the OP and offering YOUR option. Thats not asked so don't offer. Why should winter bike have mud guards? Is it the law? I dont use mudgaurds except an ass saver. I dont ride in big group rides in the wet so I dont need them Besides you can get mudgards that clip on just fine, Why must he want 25m tyres? Why must he want Disc brakes? Are these really essential? No not at all. His choice of three and if he asks other options fine but he doesn't so stick to the 3 put to you.

    Also he won't get his 10% discount from CRC with a PX or a kinesis but you read that bit didnt ya?
  • inseine
    inseine Posts: 5,788
    I've ridden all sorts of crap in winter, usually using old summer components on a 'touring' type frame or even fixed gear. Now I realise it's probably more important to have a good bike in winter than in summer, but what makes a winter bike?
    I wouldn't say it's mandatory but if you want to ride in all weathers in maximum comfort I'd definitely use mudguards and realiable tyres (not necessarily wide ones). I'd also buy a colour i could keep looking good through the worst weather. A winter of riding a white bike taught me this one!
  • DeVlaeminck
    DeVlaeminck Posts: 9,031
    Surely if you ask on a forum you want others' opinion. If you ride all winter mudguards do make sense not just to protect your back but to protect your feet, stop your brakes seizing due to being sprayed with salty water and stop your bike being sprayed with muck.
    [Castle Donington Ladies FC - going up in '22]
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Surely if you ask on a forum you want others' opinion. If you ride all winter mudguards do make sense not just to protect your back but to protect your feet, stop your brakes seizing due to being sprayed with salty water and stop your bike being sprayed with muck.

    If you ask an open question then yes. If you ask pick A , B or C you don't expect someone to say D

    As for Musguards, If you want them get them . I just say they are not an absolute necessity. You dont need to search out a frame with mudguard fittings, clip on ones will suffice.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    I wouldn't pick a carbon bike as a winter trainer - you're more prone to having an off on slippy roads and one wrong bang on the frame and its broke.
    .

    That's rubbish, you're just as likely to damage an alloy frame if you stack it. A bent alloy frame is usually toast whereas carbon can be repaired.

    But I'd pick none of those. A winter trainer should have clearance / fittings for full mudguards and at least 25mm tyres. Something like a Kinesis Racelight T2 or their Racelight 4S.
    If you'll be using it to commute and / or doing a lot of stop - start riding you might want disc brakes too, so something like the Planet X London Road?

    An alu fram can take a knock on the frame at survive a lot better than a carbon frame can. I big dent in the top tube will not be catastrophic to the frame intregrity. I know this as I had it happen on an old frame.

    If you proper smash up a frame then yes but the types of knocks that can happen from winter riding make the alu more robust.

    I see you decend into the usual crap of ignoring the OP and offering YOUR option. Thats not asked so don't offer. Why should winter bike have mud guards? Is it the law? I dont use mudgaurds except an ass saver. I dont ride in big group rides in the wet so I dont need them Besides you can get mudgards that clip on just fine, Why must he want 25m tyres? Why must he want Disc brakes? Are these really essential? No not at all. His choice of three and if he asks other options fine but he doesn't so stick to the 3 put to you.

    Also he won't get his 10% discount from CRC with a PX or a kinesis but you read that bit didnt ya?

    Wrong time of the month is it?? :shock:

    I did read the OP. He asked which of those 3 I'd choose. So I told him and explained why.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    I wouldn't pick a carbon bike as a winter trainer - you're more prone to having an off on slippy roads and one wrong bang on the frame and its broke.
    .

    That's rubbish, you're just as likely to damage an alloy frame if you stack it. A bent alloy frame is usually toast whereas carbon can be repaired.

    But I'd pick none of those. A winter trainer should have clearance / fittings for full mudguards and at least 25mm tyres. Something like a Kinesis Racelight T2 or their Racelight 4S.
    If you'll be using it to commute and / or doing a lot of stop - start riding you might want disc brakes too, so something like the Planet X London Road?

    An alu fram can take a knock on the frame at survive a lot better than a carbon frame can. I big dent in the top tube will not be catastrophic to the frame intregrity. I know this as I had it happen on an old frame.

    If you proper smash up a frame then yes but the types of knocks that can happen from winter riding make the alu more robust.

    I see you decend into the usual crap of ignoring the OP and offering YOUR option. Thats not asked so don't offer. Why should winter bike have mud guards? Is it the law? I dont use mudgaurds except an ass saver. I dont ride in big group rides in the wet so I dont need them Besides you can get mudgards that clip on just fine, Why must he want 25m tyres? Why must he want Disc brakes? Are these really essential? No not at all. His choice of three and if he asks other options fine but he doesn't so stick to the 3 put to you.

    Also he won't get his 10% discount from CRC with a PX or a kinesis but you read that bit didnt ya?

    Wrong time of the month is it?? :shock:

    I did read the OP. He asked which of those 3 I'd choose. So I told him and explained why.

    Thats exactly what you didnt do. You chose another option which wasnt put forward. Only thing you did was called avoiding a carbon frame rubbish, wheras they are very brittle to impacts that would not write off an alu frame. I hit a bollard with an alu frame that left a dent the size of a golf ball on the top tube. If this were on a carbon frame it would be beyond repair. Yes a snapped or bent seat or chain stay would render an alu frame u/s but it would more than likely snap completely on a carbon bike. The chances of slipping on wet leaves, snow, hitting submerged potholes, are increased in the winter with more rain, darker skies and less hours of daylight. I put my Carbon bikes to bed for the winter weeks ago. I ride on happily on an aul Bianchi Via Nirone knowing it can take a knock or two and survive all but the hardest of impacts which would no doubt break most bikes less steel frames.
  • Thanks for the reply, I chose these 3 because they where all around my £750 price range and they all looked to have good spec for the price. When I think of a winter bike a just think of a bike that is a lot cheaper than your 'summer/race bike', so you can keep that for good and use the other one to take out and train in all conditions! I've got clip on mudguards that work perfectly and not really fussed about disc brakes, so really a just want the best value for my money bike a can get, and these 3 are the ones I found. Would be open to recommendations though?
  • fenix
    fenix Posts: 5,437
    The classic winter bike - well within your budget and full mudguards - far better than clip ons.

    http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/bbd/road-track-bike/ribble-7005-audax-winter-training?part=BB14AW7005

    MR is entitled to his view - but a bike isn't a winter bike if it hasn't got full guards on. It took me 15 years of cycling to see the light - but once you realise....
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    If those 3 are your shortlist and you don't mind the clip on guards, I'd say go for the Cube. It's got a full 5800 groupset with the mechs upgraded to Ultegra.

    Don't discard the Raleigh just because it's carbon; it's still a good buy. I'd want to be sure it would take at least 25mm tyres though; you may be happy on 23s...
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Thanks for the reply, I chose these 3 because they where all around my £750 price range and they all looked to have good spec for the price. When I think of a winter bike a just think of a bike that is a lot cheaper than your 'summer/race bike', so you can keep that for good and use the other one to take out and train in all conditions! I've got clip on mudguards that work perfectly and not really fussed about disc brakes, so really a just want the best value for my money bike a can get, and these 3 are the ones I found. Would be open to recommendations though?

    If you are open to suggestions and dont mind shopping elswhere and using the 10% CRC on something else I would egree with Keef on the Kineses. Its perfect for your needs if thats what you want. Out of the 3 they are all good bikes. I just wouldnt go for carbon for a "winter" bike. The Cube is a good bike too, I own 2 Cube bikes (TT and MTB) but the Peloton can be a bit suspect on build quality. The wheels they used to ship with them were shockingly bad. Easton AE50 . Never stayed true and creaked. I think they put Mavics on them now but I probably am wrong.

    Still I think The GIant is better looking and a better bike
  • The classic winter bike - well within your budget and full mudguards - far better than clip ons.

    http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/bbd/road-track-bike/ribble-7005-audax-winter-training?part=BB14AW7005

    MR is entitled to his view - but a bike isn't a winter bike if it hasn't got full guards on. It took me 15 years of cycling to see the light - but once you realise....

    After taking in what you've all said about 'winter bikes' I might of changed my mind a bit Just had a look at this ' http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/bbd/road-track-bike/ribble-7005-audax-winter-training?part=BB15RIB7005AUDAX&sub=conf_BB_ALL&bike=1#Wheels ', can get it with full Shimano 105 (5800) and Fulcrum Pair Wheels Racing 7 for £735 also fitted with mudguards, think this might be the one!
    Had a look on Dolan site as well which is very similar to Ribble they also had some good deals...

  • But I'd pick none of those. A winter trainer should have clearance / fittings for full mudguards and at least 25mm tyres. Something like a Kinesis Racelight T2 or their Racelight 4S.

    If the Kinesis T2 floats your boat, this is a pretty good deal
    https://www.merlincycles.com/kinesis-racelight-t2-complete-bike-79103.html

    Although it sounds like the OP is set on the Ribble now? I think the Kinesis though is a bit more versatile - can take wider tyres etc. I think anything above 23 mm tyres on the Ribble is going to be tight..

    Of the original 3 though I think I'd go for the Giant
  • The classic winter bike - well within your budget and full mudguards - far better than clip ons.

    http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/bbd/road-track-bike/ribble-7005-audax-winter-training?part=BB14AW7005

    MR is entitled to his view - but a bike isn't a winter bike if it hasn't got full guards on. It took me 15 years of cycling to see the light - but once you realise....

    After taking in what you've all said about 'winter bikes' I might of changed my mind a bit Just had a look at this ' http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/bbd/road-track-bike/ribble-7005-audax-winter-training?part=BB15RIB7005AUDAX&sub=conf_BB_ALL&bike=1#Wheels ', can get it with full Shimano 105 (5800) and Fulcrum Pair Wheels Racing 7 for £735 also fitted with mudguards, think this might be the one!
    Had a look on Dolan site as well which is very similar to Ribble they also had some good deals...

    Great choice. You won't regret going for a bike with full 'guards. Take them off in the summer, but enjoy the relative comfort of dry feet and a dry bum in the winter!
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667

    But I'd pick none of those. A winter trainer should have clearance / fittings for full mudguards and at least 25mm tyres. Something like a Kinesis Racelight T2 or their Racelight 4S.

    If the Kinesis T2 floats your boat, this is a pretty good deal
    https://www.merlincycles.com/kinesis-racelight-t2-complete-bike-79103.html

    Although it sounds like the OP is set on the Ribble now? I think the Kinesis though is a bit more versatile - can take wider tyres etc. I think anything above 23 mm tyres on the Ribble is going to be tight..

    Of the original 3 though I think I'd go for the Giant

    All in all, I would still go for the Giant too.

    I don't believe in the philosophy of a 'winter bike' I have a bike I have for winter riding. By that I mean I don't mind if it takes a bump or scratch. The idea of buying a bike to ride solely in the winter months seems a waste of time in my eyes. A backup bike thats usually only used in winter but you don't mind hopping on any time of the year makes more sense to me.
  • redvision
    redvision Posts: 2,958
    The classic winter bike - well within your budget and full mudguards - far better than clip ons.

    http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/bbd/road-track-bike/ribble-7005-audax-winter-training?part=BB14AW7005

    I would go for the ribble bike as well.
    My winter bike cannot fit full mudguards and i make do with raceblades, better than nothing but nowhere near as good as full guards.

    The ribble is excellent value for money and i have not heard any negative comments about it.
    I do wish they would give it a bit of a refresh though - its only been available in blue for like forever! :roll:
  • redvision
    redvision Posts: 2,958
    I don't believe in the philosophy of a 'winter bike' I have a bike I have for winter riding. By that I mean I don't mind if it takes a bump or scratch. The idea of buying a bike to ride solely in the winter months seems a waste of time in my eyes. A backup bike thats usually only used in winter but you don't mind hopping on any time of the year makes more sense to me.

    Personally i would be lost without my winter bike as it is also my bad weather and commuter bike.
    My race bike (about to get a new one) is only used for summer training (dry days only) and in races/sportives.
    The winter bike is something i don't mind riding in all weathers and also on rollers.

    All about personal preference though. Some riders find they are more than happy with one bike, others have several bikes. So long as you are prepared to spend time cleaning the bike and maintaining it properly then any bike will get you through the winter.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    I don't believe in the philosophy of a 'winter bike' I have a bike I have for winter riding. By that I mean I don't mind if it takes a bump or scratch. The idea of buying a bike to ride solely in the winter months seems a waste of time in my eyes. A backup bike thats usually only used in winter but you don't mind hopping on any time of the year makes more sense to me.

    Personally i would be lost without my winter bike as it is also my bad weather and commuter bike.
    My race bike (about to get a new one) is only used for summer training (dry days only) and in races/sportives.
    The winter bike is something i don't mind riding in all weathers and also on rollers.

    All about personal preference though. Some riders find they are more than happy with one bike, others have several bikes. So long as you are prepared to spend time cleaning the bike and maintaining it properly then any bike will get you through the winter.

    You contradict yourself a little there. What you have is not a winter bike since as you say its a commuter, wet weather ride. Which is a secondary bike. Not a winter bike. This I can understand. Was this an old bike that became an inclement weather bike or was it bought specifically for winter?
  • ben-----
    ben----- Posts: 573
    I think the Ribble is pretty restricted on tyre clearance isn't it? 23c tyres and guards, but not 25c tyres and guards? Could be wrong, and it might not matter to you, but just thought I'd point that out.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    I don't believe in the philosophy of a 'winter bike' I have a bike I have for winter riding. By that I mean I don't mind if it takes a bump or scratch. The idea of buying a bike to ride solely in the winter months seems a waste of time in my eyes. A backup bike thats usually only used in winter but you don't mind hopping on any time of the year makes more sense to me.

    Personally i would be lost without my winter bike as it is also my bad weather and commuter bike.
    My race bike (about to get a new one) is only used for summer training (dry days only) and in races/sportives.
    The winter bike is something i don't mind riding in all weathers and also on rollers.

    All about personal preference though. Some riders find they are more than happy with one bike, others have several bikes. So long as you are prepared to spend time cleaning the bike and maintaining it properly then any bike will get you through the winter.

    You contradict yourself a little there. What you have is not a winter bike since as you say its a commuter, wet weather ride. Which is a secondary bike. Not a winter bike. This I can understand. Was this an old bike that became an inclement weather bike or was it bought specifically for winter?

    Semantics. For me the term winter bike is a bit of a misnomer. I prefer to call mine the wet weather bike.
    It started out as my one and only bike, but I knew I wanted to ride it year round so chose one that would take 25mm tyres and proper mudguards (Racelight Tk). In the summer the guards would come off. After 5 years I bought a carbon frameset and built up my dry weather bike.
    In the UK the roads stay wetter for longer in the winter, so from October to April I'm usually riding the wet weather bike. If we get a cold, dry spell in winter I'll ride the carbon bike instead. It still rains in the summer, so I'm often to be found on the wet weather bike in the summer too. Horses for courses and all that...

    On the other hand some people do have true winter / summer bikes. Once the clocks go back and there's a risk of frost and hence salt on the roads, the summer bike is mothballed and the old beater comes out for a winter of abuse. These are frequently retired race bikes with tight clearances, narrow tyres, clip-on guards or no guards at all
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    I think the Ribble is pretty restricted on tyre clearance isn't it? 23c tyres and guards, but not 25c tyres and guards? Could be wrong, and it might not matter to you, but just thought I'd point that out.

    That's what I always thought, but someone said they were running 25's with guards on theirs so maybe they've improved clearances? Does it take standard drop brakes? If it concerns you, probably best to ask the question of Ribble
  • redvision
    redvision Posts: 2,958
    I don't believe in the philosophy of a 'winter bike' I have a bike I have for winter riding. By that I mean I don't mind if it takes a bump or scratch. The idea of buying a bike to ride solely in the winter months seems a waste of time in my eyes. A backup bike thats usually only used in winter but you don't mind hopping on any time of the year makes more sense to me.

    Personally i would be lost without my winter bike as it is also my bad weather and commuter bike.
    My race bike (about to get a new one) is only used for summer training (dry days only) and in races/sportives.
    The winter bike is something i don't mind riding in all weathers and also on rollers.

    All about personal preference though. Some riders find they are more than happy with one bike, others have several bikes. So long as you are prepared to spend time cleaning the bike and maintaining it properly then any bike will get you through the winter.

    You contradict yourself a little there. What you have is not a winter bike since as you say its a commuter, wet weather ride. Which is a secondary bike. Not a winter bike. This I can understand. Was this an old bike that became an inclement weather bike or was it bought specifically for winter?

    Ok, so maybe classing it as a winter bike was slightly inaccurate as i do use it for commuting as well, but by this logic it is not a wet weather bike as i also do ride it on some dry days.

    Anyway, yes, it was purchased as a winter bike, the commuting aspect came later. The mistake i made was i underestimated the benefits of mudguards. When i eventually do replace this (second) bike it will be with something which can take full guards.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    It seems IMO better to buy a bike that can be fitted for use in the winter but is just as nice to ride with guards and lights etc removed with a decent wheelset on it than to buy a bike which is heavy and one dimensional.

    If I had only 1 bike and was after a bike to ride only in weather I didn't want to take the best bike out in I would either

    1. Buy a second hand bike thats easy to convert if needed to winter duties

    2. Buy a better bike and relegate the best to second bike.

    Obvious one is going to cost alot more to do than the other but in both cases I know I have 2 bikes which are hood to ride all year round. Why buy something that you think is only deserving of sitting in the shed til the snowflakes fall?
  • Well I agree, this bike would be used as a bad weather/commuter as well as for winter, so I can keep my race bike in good condition.
    Heres the spec for the two bikes I still can't decide on haha!

    http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/bbd/road-track-bike/ribble-7005-audax-winter-training?part=BB15RIB7005AUDAX&sub=conf_BB_ALL&bike=1#Wheels

    Frame: Ribble Winter/Audax 7005 Frame Blue 58cm (C-Top)
    Headset: Ribble Headset Branded Ribble 1 1/8 Hidden (ITS) 45 x 45
    Groupset: Full Shimano 105 (5800) Black 11 Spd Double Groupset
    Wheels: Fulcrum Pair Wheels Racing 7 LG 9/10/11 Shim
    Handlebars: Deda RHM 02 Bars White 42cm
    Handlebar Stem: Deda Zero 2 Stem White 110mm
    Headset Spacers: Trivia Headset Spacers Alloy 1 1/8" White 10mm
    Saddle: Selle Italia X1 Flow Saddle White
    Seatpost: Deda RSX 02 Seatpost White 27.2 350mm
    Tyres: Yaw Nitro Rigid Tyre Black/White 700x23mm
    Inner Tubes: Yaw Butyl Inner Tube 700x18/25 LV52mm
    Handlebar Tape: ITM Cork Embossed Handlebar Tape Black
    Mudguards: Zefal Narrow Guards (pair) Black
    Price: £771.80

    http://www.rutlandcycling.com/284974/products/2015-giant-defy-0-ltd-road-bike-black-white-green.aspx

    FRAME: ALUXX SL-Grade Aluminum
    FORK: Advanced-Grade Composite, ALUXX OverDrive Steerer
    SHIFTERS; Shimano Ultegra 22 speed
    CHAINSET: Shimano RS500, 34/50
    CASSETTE: Shimano 105 11-32
    CHAIN: KMC X11L
    FRONT DERAILLEUR: Shimano 105
    REAR DERAILLER: Shimano Ultegra
    WHEELS: Giant P-R2
    TYRES: Giant P-R3, Flat Guard, front and rear specific, 700x25mm
    FRONT BRAKE: Shimano BR-R561
    REAR BRAKE: Shimano BR-R561
    BRAKE LEVERS: Shimano Ultegra
    HANDLEBARS: Giant Connect
    STEM: Giant Sport, ±6 degree rise
    SADDLE: Giant Performance Road
    SEATPOST: Giant D-Fuse Composite
    MUDGUARDS: Giant Defy Mudguard Set Black 700c
    PRICE: £769.00

    The Ribble is in my team colours (blue and white) and has a better wheels in the Fulcrum racing 7, but the Giant has the better groupset overall and a better frame, hard to choose what does everyone else think?
  • Ber Nard
    Ber Nard Posts: 827
    I think the Ribble is pretty restricted on tyre clearance isn't it? 23c tyres and guards, but not 25c tyres and guards? Could be wrong, and it might not matter to you, but just thought I'd point that out.

    That's what I always thought, but someone said they were running 25's with guards on theirs so maybe they've improved clearances? Does it take standard drop brakes? If it concerns you, probably best to ask the question of Ribble


    As it happens, a couple of years ago at The Cycle Show, I did. His answer was that some 25s they've tried come up large and don't fit under guards. As they can't guarantee the 25s you may buy will fit, they don't recommend fitting 25s altogether. I ran 24s on mine without any problems and it did look like a "small" 25 would fit as well.
  • NeXXus
    NeXXus Posts: 854
    I ran 25mm tyres with guards on a Ribble. Schwalbe Lugano w/ SKS Longboard guards. Never an issue
    And the people bowed and prayed, to the neon god they made.
  • DeVlaeminck
    DeVlaeminck Posts: 9,031
    Michelin Pros measure more like 27s though so I can see their point, they don't want a lot of bad press with people saying they were told 25mm would fit when they don't. Assuming the ribble design hasn't changed recently it probably wasn't too much of an issue when it was designed.
    [Castle Donington Ladies FC - going up in '22]
  • The classic winter bike - well within your budget and full mudguards - far better than clip ons.

    http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/bbd/road-track-bike/ribble-7005-audax-winter-training?part=BB14AW7005

    MR is entitled to his view - but a bike isn't a winter bike if it hasn't got full guards on. It took me 15 years of cycling to see the light - but once you realise....

    Considering Winter can drag on almost as long as the racing season, I'd personally avoid riding this frame for extended distances. They simply aren't nice to ride...