Garmin Vector 2 - Calibration

cruff

Anyone experienced problems calibrating Vector 2?

Bought mine last week and seems like I'm doing almost nothing on my right pedal:

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/iht595nirrwux84/AAC_zSTs0x3kVgpalOLvetK0a

Suspect a calibration problem, but have recalibrated twice now. I guess it's possible that I have a duff pedal, but wanted to see if anyone has had a similar experience and - if so - have any fixes they might have implemented

Cheers!

Elfed

A lot of problems seem to be linked to the pedals not being torqued to the right amount.

Do you need to pair both pedals individually to your head unit?

cruff

Cheers for the reply Elfed. No - I can't see anything about both pedals needing to be individually paired - and I think the torque element has been removed from v2 since the pods now clip round the pedals after installation - rather than being built into the spindle installation process. I also can't find any mention of it in the manual (not that that means much - Garmin's documentation and support in general is pretty dire)

Also, I'm seeing some readings from the right pedal - just very low, inconsistent and unbalanced

I'm going to go out and recalibrate again tomorrow and see if I get a different result

Elfed

I'm pretty sure they still need to be torqued though.

Have you looked at this thread?

http://www.dcrainmaker.com/2015/04/vector2-announced.html

jgsi

Garmin's own 'how to' on YouTube
https://youtu.be/9pvMqxQwpz4
Pedals need to be tight but not silly silly tight.
If you want a struggle, use the version 1s :-(

cycleclinic

The pedal must be torqued to around 35 to 40Nm. The pins must not have any grease on the them and the plug must be sitting a bit proud of the inside crank arm. If the plug is all the way in then it means you need the pods for thicker crank arms. For example campagnolo record carbon square taper crank arms should take the pods for thinner crank arms but they actually need the pods for the thicker arms.

The pedals work just fine once you have them set up properly you have jot got them set up properly yet.

thegreatdivide

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19730567#p19730567]thecycleclinic[/url] wrote:

The pedal must be torqued to around 35 to 40Nm. The pins must not have any grease on the them and the plug must not sitting a bit proud of the inside crank arm. If the plug is all the way in then it means you need the pods for thicker crank arms. For example campagnolo record carbon square taper crank arms should take the pods for thinner crank arms but they actually need the pods for the thicker arms.

The pedals work just fine once you have them set up properly you have jot got them set up properly yet.

Spot on.

V2's still need to be torqued correctly and in exactly the same way as V1’s as the strain gauges are in the pedal spindle - that's how the system works. The pod is just a transmitter and the V2 is designed to reduced cack handed spanner users destroying them during installation.

cruff

Garmin's documentation is poor then (not that surprising!)

Just searched the manual for the Vector 2/S and there's one oblique reference to torque - specifically performing a static torque test - right at the end, in the 'Troubleshooting' section, prefaced with the following:

NOTICE

The static torque test is intended for advanced cyclists and
installation experts. This test is not required under normal
circumstances to achieve good results with the Vector system.
This test is available for the
Edge 1000, 810, and 510 devices.

Haven't had a chance to do a recalibration test again yet - doing laps tonight so will run it then

cruff

Third time's a charm...

Recalibrated again and it's done the trick - 52/48 L-R balance afterwards. I can stop worrying that I've only got one working leg now

Thanks for the advice folks

daniel_b

Bit of a different issue (or not) guys, but around Calibration still.

I installed my Vector 2's last year on my summer bike, combined with an Edge 1000, and had zero issues, either in setup or use.

I bought a Sealey torque wrench, and that combined with the Park tools crowfoot seemed to do the job fine.

With the bike on the flat, and the cranks level, the calibration would come up as 0, and 'Successful'

I have not used them for a few months, and decided to transfer them onto my turbo bike - only slight difference is 172.5mm FSA cranks versus 175 Ultegra 6800 cranks.
*I have changed the crank length setting as part of the setup process to 172.5 from 175.0.

It picks up the pedals, and in fact carried out a firmware update on both pedals first time I powered them up - it carries out the initial 'setting angles' thing I think it calls it, where you spin up to 80-90rpm, but I did this on the turbo trainer as opposed to on the open road.
When I go to calibration, it fluctuates between something like 0.15 and 0.35, and usually settles at about 0.22, but can still go up and down at will seemingly whilst the bike is stationary.

Is this an issue, ie should I always expect a 0?
It still says Calibration successful, and I can press the tick to return to the previous screen, and it is showing power figures.

Just wondering if it suggests an issue and I definitely should have a 0, or whether I might need to remove and retorque the pedals, or whether there is another issue altogether.

Elfed

Why don't you undo and re torque just to see if there's a difference.

jgsi

Why are people replying when they are NOT Vector users? Beyond me.
Anyway

I wouldnt worry about a headunit returning a torque value eg 0.03 or whatever after pressing calibration.

Elfed

JGSI wrote:

Why are people replying when they are NOT Vector users? Beyond me.
Anyway

I wouldnt worry about a headunit returning a torque value eg 0.03 or whatever after pressing calibration.

How are you able to work who's got one and who hasn't?

olake92

I don't think you should expect a perfect 0 every time you calibrate; the Garmin support page for performing a static torque test even has a picture where it is on 0.03 but correctly calibrated.

I usually have it hover around 0, but I don't know if hovering around .22 indicates a problem. You could perform a static torque test to make sure it's not wildly off and change the scale factor if needed. Failing that, you could always throw Garmin an email.

daniel_b

Thanks all - I will have a go at re-torqueing them, just in case.

I kind of did expect a big fat 0, as that was what I saw every single time on the Scott, maybe I was just lucky in that I lucked in to fitting them perfectly.

Elfed

Daniel B wrote:

Thanks all - I will have a go at re-torqueing them, just in case.

I kind of did expect a big fat 0, as that was what I saw every single time on the Scott, maybe I was just lucky in that I lucked in to fitting them perfectly.

Mine will go to 0 after calibration but alternate + or - 0.03/0.06 within a few seconds, I don't think it's anything to worry about.

Have a look at the Garmin forums, some good info there.