10sp Road STi levers + 10sp MTB Rear Mech/Cassette?

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Comments

  • gozzy
    gozzy Posts: 640
    Imposter wrote:
    Manc33 wrote:

    I am only clarifying that left MTB trigger shifters don't work properly with flat bar front mechs. Thats because the mech doesn't have a MTB pull or a road pull, but its own flat bar pull.

    There are only 2 pull ratios that I am aware of - 1:1 or 2:1 - I'm not aware of any FD or front shifter that doesn't operate on a 1:1 ratio.


    Um. Sheldon. http://sheldonbrown.com/front-derailers.html#indexing
  • Manc33
    Manc33 Posts: 2,157
    No, I just had more loose cable using a MTB shifter than I do now using the (newly replaced) dedicated "flat bar" shifter.

    Using the right one I still have to give it a big shove up from granny to middle, but the chainline does need to come out a tiny bit, I think. :oops: Really hard to measure the chainline, I think where it says "DESIGN" on the seat tube the "I" is the middle, it at least seems that way and good on the French if they deliberately did that. :)

    Sheldon's way of measuring just the middle ring (the middle of the middle chainring!) to the edge of the seat tube then adding half the diameter would probably be more accurate, or that is, accurate in some way compared to the way I am trying to guess at it.

    Bike mechanics are at the same level as doctors and lawyers. In fact being a bike mechanic is probably harder! No one man knows it all and all that. It makes me laugh how the actual TdF riders don't know certain things and they have been in the saddle every day for 10+ years. Even the mechanics themselves sometimes set it up wrong, seen Bradley throw his bike down on at least two occasions if not three in recent years.

    I'll just put on a 127mm BB and see if it fixes it but it won't make the chainrings come out too far, I reckon. Not even gonna attempt this myself this time, not got a vice. This time the friggin LBS can do it. :twisted:

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