Not so extreme race wheelset?

keezx

Manc33 wrote:

I was looking at those dishing tools and thought "Its huge, its Park Tool, its gonna cost hundreds" but they are about £20-£25 for the WAG-5 portable one.

What I don't understand is when that tool is used. It doesn't appear to be able to help you to build the rear wheel with a dish and only shows you how badly you dished it afterwards when you check on the WAG-5? Well in my case how badly. :oops:

The "dishing tool"is in fact a centering tool
The rim of a bicycle wheel should always be in the center of the frame and so in the center of the axle/hub.
While trueing the wheel you can see if the rim comes in the center, but you have no centering eye, so you have to check and correct if necessary.
This a simple and cheap thing which works OK, of course you can make it yourself if you like:
http://www.rosebikes.com/article/minour ... /aid:23084

For the rest of the story: you should really ged rid of the idea that lighter hubs make any noticeable difference for your speed or performance, it won't.

Manc33

OK cheers.

I saw an alternative method that was a bit of faffing, putting the wheel on a flat surface with books on each side. You'd have to have a lot of books to get the size right and swap books around a lot, I guess. Then flip it over and half that gap is how far out it is.

So you're always doing it by eye and using the tool to check? I mean the tool plays no part in the actual centering/dishing? There's no way it could I guess, think how a wheel looks when you start out, it only holds together properly when you're well into it and all spokes are in. There's an idea... what about building the wheel with literally 4 spokes (so you're covering the entire pattern that way) and dishing then? Then building the other 28 spokes into the wheel? Actually it sounds like a nightmare lol. Tightening up the first spokes... is the opposite of how its built lol.

If all the calculations are right you're going to end up with a dished wheel anyway I guess because the spokes are slightly shorter on the drive side.

I can't figure anything out reading on the internet. Stuff has to be in my hands to understand what's going on.

Did a recording of the already built Harry Hall Mavic's as a reference.
http://vocaroo.com/i/s1gjuog69jus

:P

keezx

Dishing and centering is a part of trueing the wheel.
Its done by turning the right spokes the right amount in the right direction,
As no human being can see exactly if the rims is in the correct position you nee indeed to check afte each correction.
You cannot build a wheel with four spokes...... accept my words in this.

The recording shows that you are at the start of trueing and tensioning.....

ugo.santalucia

Manc33

How many times would you check the dish though? Like 3 or 4 times while truing it?

That means you ideally need a dish tool that can be used on the wheel while it is on the truing stand.

Ugo, no projecting allowed after 8PM. :P

keezx

The more expensive trueing stands have a centering function, but the common opinion is that its not 100% reliable.
You cannot predict how often you must check, it's necessary after each correction you've made.

cycleclinic

Manc33, People who build wheels have a clue about what they are doing before they start, they encounter problems but will work out how to solve them. With your post it is difficult to know where to begin almost every statement is filled with so many flaws it is hard to see how a rideable wheel will result. Maybe your ability to describe what you are thinking is poor or is your approach to the task that is flawed, it sounds like the latter. Either way read a book on this before trying to do anything and just do it. Buying the bits and then trying to build a wheel without having a clue what to do will result is a mess. As for building a wheel with 4 spokes the Iron maiden pic sums up my thoughts on that nicely.