Saddle Comfort or Not

Sutton_Rider

Interesting point Monty Dog, I'll give it a thought next time I'm on the bike and see if I can do that. There is no bike shops around here that do 'Loan / Test saddles' so that option is out.

HebdenBiker

Don't just go randomly buying saddles.

Yes I realise you're out in the sticks a little bit (so am I) but if the saddle you've just bought doesn't solve the problem, it's worth taking a morning to get to your nearest Specialized Concept Store. They have the stuff to measure the shape of your arse (you sit on a gel pad thing) then they lend you one of their Body Geometry saddles to try. You don't buy until you're happy you've got the right size.

kingrollo

HebdenBiker wrote:

Don't just go randomly buying saddles.

Yes I realise you're out in the sticks a little bit (so am I) but if the saddle you've just bought doesn't solve the problem, it's worth taking a morning to get to your nearest Specialized Concept Store. They have the stuff to measure the shape of your ars* (you sit on a gel pad thing) then they lend you one of their Body Geometry saddles to try. You don't buy until you're happy you've got the right size.

I don't beleive they do lend saddles anymore - they didn't around a year ago - they will swap out saddles if you really don't get on with it.

Think BG maybe over the OP'S budget

Sutton_Rider

I take your point however the nearest Specialized Concept Store is around 70 miles from here, so if they do lend saddles and I have to make a couple of trips it may be cheaper to buy a couple of second hand saddles and re-sell the one's that don't work for me.
Not sure what BG is so can't comment.

norvernrob

Sutton Rider wrote:

A hypothetical situation.
If your sit bones are measured at 100mm you add the 25 to 30mm making a saddle requirement of around 135mm being the ideal size for a road bike. Lets assume in this case that is correct. My question is what would the effect of using a saddle of say 145mm or 165mm be?

Well mine are 105mm and I tried 3 different 134mm saddles, all 3 caused me problems with perineal pressure and one with a gap made my left sit bone really ache for some reason! The saddle on an old bike I sold was a cheapish 143mm prologo kappa, so I bought the new version @ £40 and it sorted me out straight away. No chafing, no pressure, just comfort.

gozzy

Easy way to test ride saddles is to go to a bike shop, see what they have then plonk them down on some stairs and sit on them all one by one, you'll get a rough idea of which ones knacker your knackers or not. I got it down to one or two in my lbs from a dozen or so and the one I got in the end has been spot on for the last couple of years.

Sutton_Rider

I've just brought 2 different second hand saddles, one at 135mm and the other at 145mm, both have a slot down the middle. I'm sure one or other if not both will be a winner. I will re-sell the one that doesn't make it. Got them at a good price so won't loose much in the end.

When I've got it sorted I'll post back just for completeness.

Thanks to all for your inputs.

Jules Winnfield

Sutton Rider wrote:

A hypothetical situation.
If your sit bones are measured at 100mm you add the 25 to 30mm making a saddle requirement of around 135mm being the ideal size for a road bike. Lets assume in this case that is correct. My question is what would the effect of using a saddle of say 145mm or 165mm be?

Obviously the saddle would rub on your inner thighs because it would be too wide, I know because my other half's saddle rubs my inner thighs when I'm riding her bike on the turbo for anything longer than 90 minutes.

Sutton_Rider

UPDATE
The Selle Italia C2 Gel Flow arrived today. I fitted it and went out for a ride, only 8 miles, but I took my time so as to get a feel for it. The ride took 30 mins. It seemed to be a little harder on the sit bones than the old cheap saddle, but although a slight discomfort in the soft tissue there was no numbness. I need to do further testing.

Went for 1 hour today, the numbness was just starting to come back, but the sit bones were getting painful. This saddle is NOT for me. Next!

Anyone wana buy a hardly used C2 saddle in white?

Sutton_Rider

Tried the Selle Italia Max today no numbness after just over an hour, however the sit bones were beginning to hurt. Next step is to try some more expensive shorts. I'm getting there. Anyone recommend some shorts.

kingrollo

assos factory outlet have some assos s2 shorts for around £85...

trying riding on the drops a bit more to take the weight of your sit bones - if that works lower your bars \ raise saddle...

Sutton_Rider

UPDATE
I've bought some better shorts, Pearl Izumi Mens Attack shorts, they seem better than the old ones, a little discomfort after an hour but even after 2.5 hours its not too bad. Next step is to put the Selle Italia C2 saddle back and see how that works with the new shorts.

The Selle Italia C2 gives me numbness after about 45 mins, the Italia Max gel didn't. So it looks like the Max saddle is going back on. The Max gel is the best so far, but still not right.

I have now fitted the Selle Italia SLR Superflow. Only done a short run so far, but I think numbness is a thing of the past. We will see if the sit bones can find some comfort.

Jules Winnfield

This is ridiculous. How can you expect to get used to a saddle after 1 or 2 rides? I had a CSN Superleggera saddle on my bike from Ribble. I ordered that just because I liked the look of it. I didn't know anything about sit bone width back then and I just got on the bike and rode it. My sit bones hurt like heck for a while.... until I got used to riding AND the saddle.

I have since changed that for a proper width Selle Italia Q-Bik Flow simply because I wanted a proper fitting saddle to go with my proper fitting bike and guess what? The Selle Italia feels strange and alien to me..... Simply because my behind is not used to it.

I would seriously buy a correct width saddle and stick with it for 2 weeks at least before chopping and changing else you will be forever wasting your time and buying new saddles. I liken it to adjusting your seat height when you have a bike fit. You have got to give yourself at least 2 weeks for your body to adapt to a new position.

Sutton_Rider

While I tend to agree with what you are saying Jules regarding the sit bones I don't think the same can be said for numbness in the soft bits. Either the saddle works for you or it doesn't. The C2 didn't, the Max was better, but still not right. I've been out for just over an hour this morning with the Superflow and there was no numbness at all, I've even spent some time on the drops. So that's the winner in the numbness department. The site bones however were getting very painful, but I take your point Jules and will stick with it and see where it takes me.

Jules Winnfield

Sutton Rider wrote:

While I tend to agree with what you are saying Jules regarding the sit bones I don't think the same can be said for numbness in the soft bits. Either the saddle works for you or it doesn't.

If your soft bits are getting numb then the logical answer to me would be to adjust the front to back tilt on the saddle slightly. Maybe the nose of the saddle is too high? Have you fitted a new saddle then got a spirit level on the saddle to make sure it's level? At least that will give you some sort of baseline to work too, you can then adjust the tilt to suit. You might find that a slightly tilted forward saddle works for you.

Sutton_Rider

Yes, done the spirit level thing and tried it slightly nose up and down. Nose down was a bit better, but generally uncomfortable. (The nose up was more to see how it effected the sit bones) I have also tried it at slightly different heights. I've also played around with a gel seat cover taking it on and off to see what if any difference that makes. With the numbness none at all, but possibly more comfortable on the sit bones, but not a lot in it. I'm certain I need the large cut out that the superflow offers, as today's ride proved. At the moment the superflow it's dead level. I'm going for 30+ miles on Saturday, I'll see how I stand up to it then (or should that be sit down to it).

kingrollo

you may find your sit bones toughen up - so the advice from Jules is good IMO.

do you have an upright riding position ? - I found some relief from sit bone pain - by riding down on the drops more ?

kingrollo

you may find your sit bones toughen up - so the advice from Jules is good IMO.

do you have an upright riding position ? - I found some relief from sit bone pain - by riding down on the drops more ?

Sutton_Rider

I'm hope your right, a few people have said hang in it should get better. Went for a 30 mile ride today, there was some pain after about a mile, but it didn't get any worst.

I find its better if I sit more upright. If I stay on the drops for long I get more discomfort below the sit bones.

Thanks all for your input.

fudgey

Its not an easy one this, as everyone is different.

I have had my road bike 5 months now and covered 1100 odd miles on it. And still get uncomfortable around 30 miles.
The other day i was messing about after reading this http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm and pointed the nose up a bit, think i done it a bit too much as it was getting slightly uncomfortable today at around 15 miles so stopped and dropped it a bit.

My seat post is a bit of a pain in the ass (no pun intended) as i cant seem to make very slight adjustments..

Will try again before i go out again as it felt like i was leaning forward more after adjusting it earlier. But i did do the next 10 miles with no discomfort.

skooter

Hi Sutton Rider..
Just been reading your thread with great interest so here's my bob's worth.

To get the right seat adjustment this is what did.

Get a small bit of wood 2 inches longer than your saddle about 2 inch's wide and 6/8 mm thick and place on your saddle in the centre long ways, then get a spirit level and place on the top the wood and set the bubble in the middle of the two line as you would normally this will give you a central point to start with?
To get your seat height right get the shoe's you want to wear, put on and stand on the bike with the pedals to 12 and 6 oclock then place your foot on the 6 oclock pedal with your insole on the middle of the pedal, then lift the saddle till you can just feel it under your bum ( leave a tiny gap)
That should give you the right saddle height.
I have just mentioned these to things as I have seen many people measure these two things in many different ways, but these ways were good ways for me.

The bib shorts should be coloured in side the blue is medium protection and red is for better protection.
As for saddles if you have no luck see if you can try a Fizik Arione its a cracking saddle..
PS Some saddles do need wearing in a bit but good luck getting it sorted..and just ignore my post if you wish...

ai_1

skooter wrote:

....To get your seat height right get the shoe's you want to wear, put on and stand on the bike with the pedals to 12 and 6 oclock then place your foot on the 6 oclock pedal with your insole on the middle of the pedal, then lift the saddle till you can just feel it under your bum ( leave a tiny gap)
That should give you the right saddle height.
I have just mentioned these to things as I have seen many people measure these two things in many different ways, but these ways were good ways for me.

That seems awfully open to interpretation. I suspect if you asked several different people to do this they'd end up with several very different results. Much better to work off the parameter which actually matters most which is leg angle. If you have a turbo use that and film yourself pedalling. If you haven't then get a friend to watch you or film you riding. You want an angle of around 25-30 degrees at the knee when it's at it's straightest. I think it's pretty much as simple as that. Other methods are really aimed at predicting a saddle height measurement that will produce this end result bt why not just measure it directly.

skooter wrote:

....The bib shorts should be coloured in side the blue is medium protection and red is for better protection.

Are you sure? I've never heard of this and some of my shorts would seem to contradict it. I have tri-shorts with red chamois, Assos shorts I use for my long rides with a turquoise chamois and Sportful shorts with a particularly substantial pad that's blue....

Jules Winnfield

Ai_1 wrote:

skooter wrote:

....To get your seat height right get the shoe's you want to wear, put on and stand on the bike with the pedals to 12 and 6 oclock then place your foot on the 6 oclock pedal with your insole on the middle of the pedal, then lift the saddle till you can just feel it under your bum ( leave a tiny gap)
That should give you the right saddle height.
I have just mentioned these to things as I have seen many people measure these two things in many different ways, but these ways were good ways for me.

Much better to work off the parameter which actually matters most which is leg angle. If you have a turbo use that and film yourself pedalling. If you haven't then get a friend to watch you or film you riding. You want an angle of around 25-30 degrees at the knee when it's at it's straightest.

This is exactly what I did Ali. I got 3 round, white stickers and stuck one each on my ankle bone, top of my femur and one behind my knee cap where my upper and lower leg pivot. (You can feel the bone I'm talking about when you flex and straighten your leg). I then got on the trainer, pedalled for a minute to get my position on the saddle and then put my cranks in the 6 to 12 o'clock position and got my other half to take a photo of my leg position. I then had a look of the photo on the laptop, put a white piece of paper over the photo on the laptop screen and dotted the white stickers which you can see through the paper with a felt pen. I then joined the dots with 2 lines with a ruler so they bisected each other and checked the angle with a protractor. Originally I had a leg angle of 23 degrees. A rule of thumb that I watched on Arts Cyclery is that if you drop your saddle 1mm, then you raise your leg angle by 1 degree. So I dropped my saddle height by 3mm which gave me a leg angle of 26 degrees.

It's a bit of a long winded way of doing things but at least I know that I'm sitting bang on and I know that for months previously, my saddle height was way to low. Now it actually feels like I'm using all my leg power instead of just my quads.

Sutton_Rider

Thanks for both replies. As I said in an earlier reply I have done the spirit level thing and I did put a bit of wood on the saddle as well, also I check the floor the bike was on first.

Interesting on your take on the different colour chamois Skooter, I've never heard of that, but that's not surprising as I'm a newby. Can that be confirmed by a web site or manufacture somewhere? If so it would be very handy information to have when buying shorts.

I have the seat height set at the moment with a 30 deg bend at the knee, I've tried it at 25, but felt 30 was best for me. I cycle with a group once a week here and a very experienced guy took a look last time we were out and he reckoned it was pretty much on.

The general opinion is that I should get a few miles on it and see how it goes.