Saddle Comfort or Not

Sutton_Rider

I'm quite new to this biking and I'm slowly pushing up the distance, but I'm finding at about 20 miles the meat and two veg are going numb. I'm wearing some cheap padded shorts that are better than nothing, but what's better or best? What do you guys wear?

norvernrob

Sutton Rider wrote:

I'm quite new to this biking and I'm slowly pushing up the distance, but I'm finding at about 20 miles the meat and two veg are going numb. I'm wearing some cheap padded shorts that are better than nothing, but what's better or best? What do you guys wear?

I'd say your saddle is the wrong shape or width, or both. My new bike came with a saddle that caused a burning every time I p*ssed for a couple of day. Needless to say I ditched it and replaced it with the same saddle as my old bike, problem solved and get no pain whatsoever.

Nobody can tell you what saddle is best for you though, you can either get measured up at certain shops or just buy a different shape/width saddle and trial and error it, buying and selling until you get one that's comfortable. Don't be shelling out on £200 saddles until you know it's the right shape and width though cos it can get expensive!

Decent shorts will definitely make a difference too, but if the saddle is right you shouldn't be going numb.

diamonddog

Definitely get some decent shorts to start with then if the problem remains you may need to start looking at replacing your saddle.

dj58

Spend more money and buy a quality pair of shorts with a 4h plus rated pad, you will be amazed at the difference in comfort with them compared with you budget shorts.

If you are new to road cycling you are going to have a period of some discomfort in your posterior while you get used to sitting on your bike for hours/miles, however if you saddle is not the correct size for your sit bones/anatomy, you need to change it. You may need one with a cut-out/relief channel.

ai_1

Do not just start buying saddles! A lot of people do it but it's ridiculously expensive and you could go through half a dozen or more before finding one that's right. Plus you'll likely as not end up compromising rather than buy yet another saddle!

First get a fairly decent pair of shorts. But this is unlikely to be the culprit. Good shorts help with ciomfort but if you're getting numbness it's almost certain the saddle shape or set-up is at fault.
Second get the saddle height, fore/aft position and tilt correct. If your saddle is too high it leads to a rocking motion which you may not notice but which will cause pain on long rides and may contribute to numbness. Fore/aft position is linked to height and where you place your weight. The angle of the saddle makes a big difference to how you suport your weight on it. Most saddle designs should normally be in a fairly level position. Nose down you will tend to slide forwards and have to keep adjusting. Nose up you will likely have too much pressure on your perineum which I think is a major cause numbness.

If, after getting decent shorts and getting your saddle position correct, you still have a problem then move on to the saddle. Reviews are largely pointless for saddles. Unless the reviewer has a similar ass and riding position to you there's no reason to think the saddle they like will suit you too. Also don't assume a softer saddle will be more comfortable. Usually the reverse is true. The padding on an overly soft saddle will press between your bones and put pressure on the soft tissue which is much less comfortable and also more likely to cause numbness. A soft saddle feels better at first but much worse after an hour in the saddle.
The saddle is there to support you so some part of you needs to take your weight. This should be your sit bones. The saddle width and shape need to allow you place weight comfortably on your sit bones without squashing some other part of your anatomy or getting in the way of your pedal stroke.
Many, maybe most, people who suffer with numbness find saddles with channels or cutout sections down the middle help cure the problem. There are lots of these to chose from but you need the rest of the saddle to suit too so just picking any saddle with a cutout isn't the way to go.

The other option is a less conventional saddle like the Adamo ISM range. These have a very different shape (you'll recognise them by the short nose consisting of two "prongs") and are designed to completely eliminate pressure on the perineum and maintain blood flow. In my experience they work brilliantly but in my opinion they're best for riding in a low and aggressive position rather than sitting up and cruising. They also take some getting used to. Most people find them uncomfortable for the first several rides since they require different adaptation to that which you would have gone through when you started riding with a normal saddle. After this break-in period however they become comfortable.

Have a look around and ask your local bike shops if they do test saddles. Some do, some don't. Fizik dealers will usually have test saddles and some Specialised dealers do too. Often you pay a deposit equivalent to the cost of the saddle. Some shops will not do test saddles as such but they will sell you a saddle and agree to take it back within 28 days providing it's unmarked which amounts to the same thing if you're careful (wrap electrical tape around the rails to stop them getting marked).
You'll usually need a couple of longish rides to be sure if a saddle works for you but you'll know it's a bad fit much sooner than that!

I tried several saddles before I was happy but I never bought anything I couldn't return. I got Cobb saddle from http://www.bike-science.com which just cost me for shipping once they returned the deposit (they also do Adamo saddles). I got Fizik test saddles and a Specialised Toupe from a local bike shop.
I also got an Adamo ISM Breakaway saddle which I tested for nearly a month and after the first two weeks it suddenly became really comfortable and completely eliminated any numbness. However while it was superb in a low and aggressive position, I found that when sitting up and cruising on long rides or when climbing felt a little odd because of the width of the saddle. It wasn't uncomfortable, just odd. I suspected I'd get used to this but I wasn't sure.
I nearly bought the Breakaway but wanted to try the Specialised Romin Evo Expert first. I found a local bike shop that would take it back if I didn't like it. Like many saddles these come in more than one width. They did a sit-bone measurement and said the 155mm version was probably best but 143mm might be okay and was all they had in stock. I tried it and hated it. It was NOT comfortable for me. When I brought it back they had a 155mm version back in stock so I swapped and tried that. What a difference! The 155mm version felt completely different and I ended up buying it. If I ride in the drops for a prolonged period I still get slight numbness but it's considerably improved and I'm fine for normal riding. It feels much more normal than the Breakaway for cruising and climbing too. I've been using it for about 8 months now and my saddle problems are a thing of the past.

Then I got a new bike a couple of months ago and decided to convert the old bike to a TT bike with a forward seatpost and aero handlebar extensions. remembering the Breakaway I went back to the Adamo range and tried the new Attack saddle. I've been using this for about a month now and it'll be staying! As good as teh Breakaway in the aero position but also gives the option to move around more (the breakaway only felt great in one specific position) and I think it'll work well on long rides and climbs too but have yet to test it properly.

I'd recommend trying the Attack as I think it'll be a better all rounder than the Breakaway and if you can get comfortable on them the Adamo saddles are pretty much guaranteed to cure numbness. Some people find them very comfortable, some hate them. Few are in between. However I don't think I've ever heard anyone say numbness wasn't cured.

A very wordy post I know, but hopefully it's useful!

Jules Winnfield

Measure your sit bones and see what width saddle you need.....

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=E7j9LUVJrjA

Anonymous

Way I see it is that saddle has to be right for you and the pad in your shorts is just to prolong the time you can spend on it.
Do not see that you can just pad out a badly fitting saddle.

I would try one of these for starters...........
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/fwe ... e-ec041134

Keep the packaging and just take it back if a big improvement is not quickly noticed.

Specialized stores (and maybe some dealers?) do unlimited saddle swaps I think, but I would just try the Evans one first as you have nothing to lose.

dennisn

Ai_1 wrote:

Do not just start buying saddles! A lot of people do it but it's ridiculously expensive and you could go through half a dozen or more before finding one that's right. Plus you'll likely as not end up compromising rather than buy yet another saddle!

First get a fairly decent pair of shorts. But this is unlikely to be the culprit. Good shorts help with ciomfort but if you're getting numbness it's almost certain the saddle shape or set-up is at fault.
Second get the saddle height, fore/aft position and tilt correct. If your saddle is too high it leads to a rocking motion which you may not notice but which will cause pain on long rides and may contribute to numbness. Fore/aft position is linked to height and where you place your weight. The angle of the saddle makes a big difference to how you suport your weight on it. Most saddle designs should normally be in a fairly level position. Nose down you will tend to slide forwards and have to keep adjusting. Nose up you will likely have too much pressure on your perineum which I think is a major cause numbness.

If, after getting decent shorts and getting your saddle position correct, you still have a problem then move on to the saddle. Reviews are largely pointless for saddles. Unless the reviewer has a similar ass and riding position to you there's no reason to think the saddle they like will suit you too. Also don't assume a softer saddle will be more comfortable. Usually the reverse is true. The padding on an overly soft saddle will press between your bones and put pressure on the soft tissue which is much less comfortable and also more likely to cause numbness. A soft saddle feels better at first but much worse after an hour in the saddle.
The saddle is there to support you so some part of you needs to take your weight. This should be your sit bones. The saddle width and shape need to allow you place weight comfortably on your sit bones without squashing some other part of your anatomy or getting in the way of your pedal stroke.
Many, maybe most, people who suffer with numbness find saddles with channels or cutout sections down the middle help cure the problem. There are lots of these to chose from but you need the rest of the saddle to suit too so just picking any saddle with a cutout isn't the way to go.

The other option is a less conventional saddle like the Adamo ISM range. These have a very different shape (you'll recognise them by the short nose consisting of two "prongs") and are designed to completely eliminate pressure on the perineum and maintain blood flow. In my experience they work brilliantly but in my opinion they're best for riding in a low and aggressive position rather than sitting up and cruising. They also take some getting used to. Most people find them uncomfortable for the first several rides since they require different adaptation to that which you would have gone through when you started riding with a normal saddle. After this break-in period however they become comfortable.

Have a look around and ask your local bike shops if they do test saddles. Some do, some don't. Fizik dealers will usually have test saddles and some Specialised dealers do too. Often you pay a deposit equivalent to the cost of the saddle. Some shops will not do test saddles as such but they will sell you a saddle and agree to take it back within 28 days providing it's unmarked which amounts to the same thing if you're careful (wrap electrical tape around the rails to stop them getting marked).
You'll usually need a couple of longish rides to be sure if a saddle works for you but you'll know it's a bad fit much sooner than that!

I tried several saddles before I was happy but I never bought anything I couldn't return. I got Cobb saddle from http://www.bike-science.com which just cost me for shipping once they returned the deposit (they also do Adamo saddles). I got Fizik test saddles and a Specialised Toupe from a local bike shop.
I also got an Adamo ISM Breakaway saddle which I tested for nearly a month and after the first two weeks it suddenly became really comfortable and completely eliminated any numbness. However while it was superb in a low and aggressive position, I found that when sitting up and cruising on long rides or when climbing felt a little odd because of the width of the saddle. It wasn't uncomfortable, just odd. I suspected I'd get used to this but I wasn't sure.
I nearly bought the Breakaway but wanted to try the Specialised Romin Evo Expert first. I found a local bike shop that would take it back if I didn't like it. Like many saddles these come in more than one width. They did a sit-bone measurement and said the 155mm version was probably best but 143mm might be okay and was all they had in stock. I tried it and hated it. It was NOT comfortable for me. When I brought it back they had a 155mm version back in stock so I swapped and tried that. What a difference! The 155mm version felt completely different and I ended up buying it. If I ride in the drops for a prolonged period I still get slight numbness but it's considerably improved and I'm fine for normal riding. It feels much more normal than the Breakaway for cruising and climbing too. I've been using it for about 8 months now and my saddle problems are a thing of the past.

Then I got a new bike a couple of months ago and decided to convert the old bike to a TT bike with a forward seatpost and aero handlebar extensions. remembering the Breakaway I went back to the Adamo range and tried the new Attack saddle. I've been using this for about a month now and it'll be staying! As good as teh Breakaway in the aero position but also gives the option to move around more (the breakaway only felt great in one specific position) and I think it'll work well on long rides and climbs too but have yet to test it properly.

I'd recommend trying the Attack as I think it'll be a better all rounder than the Breakaway and if you can get comfortable on them the Adamo saddles are pretty much guaranteed to cure numbness. Some people find them very comfortable, some hate them. Few are in between. However I don't think I've ever heard anyone say numbness wasn't cured.

A very wordy post I know, but hopefully it's useful!

Outstanding advice. Especially the first sentence. Not to mention the tilt, fore aft, and saddle height adjustments. Without FIRST addressing these points it's pointless to simply start buying shorts and saddles.

Sutton_Rider

Thanks guys for the outstanding help and advice. There's a lot to go through and look into. As far as the saddle position, although I've not done a professional bike fit I have set it as accurately as I can myself following the many Youtubes and other explanations found on line. I should say I'm 62 and a tour rider I'm not. I don't want to throw £100's at it, the bike only cost £240. I just want a bit more comfort. But as I say many thanks for all of your input.

Jules Winnfield

Carbonator wrote:

I would try one of these for starters...........
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/fwe ... e-ec041134

I really can't see the point of advising the OP to buy ANY saddle at this point until he knows what width saddle he actually needs. Once he gets his sit bone measurement then that will narrow down his options to something more specific straight away.

norvernrob

Jules Winnfield wrote:

Carbonator wrote:

I would try one of these for starters...........
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/fwe ... e-ec041134

I really can't see the point of advising the OP to buy ANY saddle at this point until he knows what width saddle he actually needs. Once he gets his sit bone measurement then that will narrow down his options to something more specific straight away.

That's not necessarily going to work either though. My sit bones are just over 100mm, but I can't get comfortable on anything below 140mm+.

Sutton_Rider

I think that the sit bones part of the saddle is OK. I'm quite comfortable up to about 20 miles when the blood flow to the dangly bits gets cut off and things go numb.

dennisn

Sutton Rider wrote:

I think that the sit bones part of the saddle is OK. I'm quite comfortable up to about 20 miles when the blood flow to the dangly bits gets cut off and things go numb.

Imho - cut outs are very helpful in keeping things from going numb. Works for me. They do, however, cause your weight to be put more on the sit bones. For me a wider saddle(140-145), with cut out, seems about right for what one fitter called my "medium width sit bones". It's not perfect, but the best so far. Ya gotta remember we're not talking lounge chairs or sofas here.

Jules Winnfield

NorvernRob wrote:

Jules Winnfield wrote:

Carbonator wrote:

I would try one of these for starters...........
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/fwe ... e-ec041134

I really can't see the point of advising the OP to buy ANY saddle at this point until he knows what width saddle he actually needs. Once he gets his sit bone measurement then that will narrow down his options to something more specific straight away.

That's not necessarily going to work either though. My sit bones are just over 100mm, but I can't get comfortable on anything below 140mm+.

Well that sounds very nearly right though. You measure your centre to centre sit bone width and add 25-30 mm which gives you your saddle width. For example, my sit bones C-C are 115 mm. Add on the extra 25-30 mm extra (so you are actually sitting on your sit bones and they are not overhanging the saddle thus putting pressure on your perineal nerve) gives me a ideal saddle width of 140-145 mm.

Couple that with a flow type saddle should give you hours of pain free cycling. My other half's Pendleton came with a rubbish seat. Even on the turbo only after 10 minutes of riding she was complaining of discomfort. After searching the web, measuring her sit bones and getting a seat of the proper width (the standard issue Pendleton saddle was too narrow for her) she can now go on the turbo for as long as her relatively weak cardiovascular system will allow.

drlodge

Sutton Rider wrote:

I think that the sit bones part of the saddle is OK. I'm quite comfortable up to about 20 miles when the blood flow to the dangly bits gets cut off and things go numb.

I've had this problem in the past. First with an old gel saddle from the 80s/90s which had no cut out. I then moved to a Selle Italia Flite Gel Flow saddle which has a modest cut out, and things improved. I can ride fairly long distances without my dangling bits going numb and even then, some moving around and standing up gets around that. I now have a Selle SMP lite 209 which has a massive cut out and I've not numbing issues at all. These saddles aren't cheap, but they work for me.

My advice is to try different saddles, finding a place that loans saddles is difficult. Alternatively, you could buy a second hand one, in the knowledge that if it doesn't work out you can sell it on without losing a load of dosh.

norvernrob

Jules Winnfield wrote:

NorvernRob wrote:

Jules Winnfield wrote:

Carbonator wrote:

I would try one of these for starters...........
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/fwe ... e-ec041134

I really can't see the point of advising the OP to buy ANY saddle at this point until he knows what width saddle he actually needs. Once he gets his sit bone measurement then that will narrow down his options to something more specific straight away.

That's not necessarily going to work either though. My sit bones are just over 100mm, but I can't get comfortable on anything below 140mm+.

Well that sounds very nearly right though. You measure your centre to centre sit bone width and add 25-30 mm which gives you your saddle width. For example, my sit bones C-C are 115 mm. Add on the extra 25-30 mm extra (so you are actually sitting on your sit bones and they are not overhanging the saddle thus putting pressure on your perineal nerve) gives me a ideal saddle width of 140-145 mm.

Couple that with a flow type saddle should give you hours of pain free cycling. My other half's Pendleton came with a rubbish seat. Even on the turbo only after 10 minutes of riding she was complaining of discomfort. After searching the web, measuring her sit bones and getting a seat of the proper width (the standard issue Pendleton saddle was too narrow for her) she can now go on the turbo for as long as her relatively weak cardiovascular system will allow.

A 134mm saddle should have been fine for me too though, my sit bones were 105mm. I tried 3 and all 3 gave me real perineum pain, a flat shaped 143 solved it immediately.

kingrollo

Genuine question - where is the pad rating for shorts ? - I am looking for some decent shorts - but wasn't aware of a pad rating system.

Its a tough on for the OP - its all very well saying don't join the great saddle hunt - but what else does he do ? - pay £150 for a bike fit - when his bike was £240 ?

There are some general choices - Charge spoon is a good cheap saddle - from what the OP has said a saddle with a cut out might we worth a try - again cheaper ones (to prove the concept) can be got for around £20. You say money by purchasing saddles in unpopular colours - or getting them from ebay \ classifieds.

Personal as the OP is new to cycling I would suspect a combination of saddle choice\toughening up\bike fit will get him the desired result. (and chamy cream !)

From very bitter experience though - if ass gets sore don't push through it -I did that and have been off the bike for 3 years with the damage I did...

ai_1

kingrollo wrote:

Its a tough on for the OP - its all very well saying don't join the great saddle hunt - but what else does he do ? - pay £150 for a bike fit - when his bike was £240 ?

There are some general choices - Charge spoon is a good cheap saddle - from what the OP has said a saddle with a cut out might we worth a try......

I think you missed the point. There is nothing to be gained by buying saddles if you're mounting them in the wrong position. There's no money or time savings or easy solution to be had by ignoring a check of your setup. I'm not suggesting he needs to get an expensive fit done. He can figure it out pretty well on his own with a little research. That's what I did originally and when I dud get a professional bike fitting a couple of years later they made no really significant changes. It's not that difficult really.

So I eould repeat. Do not just start buying saddles until you know that's the problem and know you'll be testing them in the correct configuration. Any other approach is rather silly.

Sutton_Rider

UPDATE!!

I've tried some extra padding (Gel saddle cover) that made a slight improvement, but still the numbness. Having spent hours going over reviews and the comments you guys have made I'm going to try a Selle Italia C2 Gel Flow. Not too expensive, but must be better than the £12 saddle I have now. I will report back.
Again many thanks for your advice and comments.

ai_1

Sutton Rider wrote:

UPDATE!!

I've tried some extra padding (Gel saddle cover) that made a slight improvement, but still the numbness. Having spent hours going over reviews and the comments you guys have made I'm going to try a Selle Italia C2 Gel Flow. Not too expensive, but must be better than the £12 saddle I have now. I will report back.
Again many thanks for your advice and comments.

Did you do a long ride with the extra padding? I think you'll find a saddle cover makes you far less comfortable on a long ride and will almost certainly make numbness worse unless the existing saddle is absolutely awful.

If the Selle C2 saddle is returnable, give it a shot. If it's not then I'd suggest the approach in my earlier post (i.e. stick with test saddles or returnable saddles until you know what suits you).
Have you checked your saddle height and angle? Incidentally, adding a gel saddle cover probably means you'd need to drop the saddle a few mm if it was in the right place to begin with. You'll need to adjust the seatpost slightly for different saddles too as they can be different heights from the rails to the top of the saddle and it's the top of the saddle that matters. Just measure from the bottom bracket (centre of the chainrings) to the top of the saddle once you're happy with the height and keep this constant when you switch saddles. Easy.

Seriously, buying saddles without getting this sorted out first is a waste of time and money!

By the way, a £12 saddle that suits you will be much more comfortable than a £200 saddle that doesn't. So don't get into the mindset that more expensive is more comfortable.
The price and quality of the saddle is irrelevant until you've figured out the shape and size you need. Once you know that, you can decide how much you want to spend and chose lighter weight and nicer materials as you see fit. For the most part, quality doesn't equal comfort.

Sutton_Rider

OK, I did a ride this morning with the gel cover on of 18 miles, that's long enough to know if there has been an improvement. As I said it was slight.
There are very few bike shops around here, so finding one that does test saddles is not going to happen.
The saddle height / angle / fore and aft position have all been checked every time I make any sort of change. I am happy that all 3 are close enough to not make any real difference.
As for changing the saddle I think that this my only way forward. Again changing it for the C2 is a good starting point. Not too expensive, has a good resale value if necessary, a different design that should help with the pressure points. It's got to be worth a try and see where I go from there.

ai_1

Sutton Rider wrote:

OK, I did a ride this morning with the gel cover on of 18 miles, that's long enough to know if there has been an improvement. As I said it was slight...

Depends how far you usually ride and at what point you normally have problems. (Also how fast you ride: 18 miles could be 45 minutes or over 1.5hours!)
I wouldn't be sure after 18 miles. I've tried saddles that were fine for the first hour but horribly uncomfortable on longer rides of 2 to 8hrs. The first 30mins may well feel most comfy on a heavily padded saddle anyway. Up to an hour you may still be okay.

Hopefully the C2 works out for you.

Sutton_Rider

I did the 18 miles in just 1 hr 7 min. But if it's not right before then it's not going to get any better.

kingrollo

Ai_1 wrote:

kingrollo wrote:

Its a tough on for the OP - its all very well saying don't join the great saddle hunt - but what else does he do ? - pay £150 for a bike fit - when his bike was £240 ?

There are some general choices - Charge spoon is a good cheap saddle - from what the OP has said a saddle with a cut out might we worth a try......

I think you missed the point. There is nothing to be gained by buying saddles if you're mounting them in the wrong position. There's no money or time savings or easy solution to be had by ignoring a check of your setup. I'm not suggesting he needs to get an expensive fit done. He can figure it out pretty well on his own with a little research. That's what I did originally and when I dud get a professional bike fitting a couple of years later they made no really significant changes. It's not that difficult really.

So I eould repeat. Do not just start buying saddles until you know that's the problem and know you'll be testing them in the correct configuration. Any other approach is rather silly.

With respect - I don't think I have missed the point. The OP has already said he has done a DIY fit based on you tube videos and web research. - So without seeing I am guessing the OP has his position pretty close.

Moving the position of an uncomfortable saddle - can have dramatic effects on comfort (so we are told). But more often it doesn't IME. Bike fits are very fashionable at the moment - but I would say if the OP has adjusted his saddle without success then a few cheap saddles would be the next step

ai_1

I'm not trying to be pedantic. I'm just not sure if you meant that the way you wrote it or not and that's important because if you meant it the way you wrote it you don't get my point, so bear with me...

"Moving the position of an uncomfortable saddle" won't stop it being an uncomfortable saddle. However until you've ruled out position as a cause you don't actually know that you have an uncomfortable saddle. A badly positioned saddle that is causing discomfort may be resolved entirely by getting the position right. I would call hat dramatic and since you seem sceptical, feel free to play around with the position of your saddle and see if it makes a difference. I've played around a bit with this and found that height and angle changes can make a huge difference.

If buying some random cheap saddles was a reliable and predictable way to find a solution that'd be great but it's not. It's a lottery and if you started in the wrong place it's a lottery you might never win

Sutton_Rider

A hypothetical situation.
If your sit bones are measured at 100mm you add the 25 to 30mm making a saddle requirement of around 135mm being the ideal size for a road bike. Lets assume in this case that is correct. My question is what would the effect of using a saddle of say 145mm or 165mm be?

diamonddog

As I mentioned in an earlier post why not try better shorts? A better pad will make a difference IME, some pads are only comfy for a couple of hours at most others are made for far longer periods in the saddle.

Sutton_Rider

Good point Diamonddog, but how do I know which shorts are better than others?

diamonddog

I have a couple of pairs of Santini from Prendas which give a pad rating also the Decathlon 900 Aero and 700 ranges have a good pad IME. Best to go and try some on and you may find other manufacturers do the same also the big online outlets like CRC and Wiggle may show pad ratings.

Secteur

I havent read all the replies here (there are some *long* replies!), but I recall having this problem when I first started cycling, and it just went away after a few weeks once I got used to the saddle / positiion. I had forgotten all about it until I read this thread! But when I very first started there was a very definite "numbness" in the genital region (LOL!!) for the first month or two of cycling that lasted about 30 mins after cycling. Wasnt painful - just odd!

Monty Dog

Extra padding will likely increase numbness, not reduce it. If you are getting numbness in your nethers, then suggests you are rolling forward onto your perineal area contacting with the nose of the saddle whereas you need to rotate your pelvis backwards otherwise you'll never get comfortable. A decent LBS will be able to advise on saddle fit and have test saddles for you to try.