Distance?

Hi guys just a quick one!
I'm new obviously
Can you tell me what would be a good distance to start with
I started on monday past and i've been riding on the road on my MTB early every morning doing 5 miles a day and its take me around 45 mins.
Its now saturday morning and although i can feel it in my upper legs all day, not painfull more of an slight discomfort it is getting easier evrytime i go out (i'm working to a heartrate monitor by the way)
What would be a good starting distance and what would be the norm in progressing? ie targets
I'm 51, 5'10 and slim build if it makes a difference.
I just want to get some sort of fitness built up before hitting any trails
cheers!
I'm new obviously

Can you tell me what would be a good distance to start with

I started on monday past and i've been riding on the road on my MTB early every morning doing 5 miles a day and its take me around 45 mins.
Its now saturday morning and although i can feel it in my upper legs all day, not painfull more of an slight discomfort it is getting easier evrytime i go out (i'm working to a heartrate monitor by the way)
What would be a good starting distance and what would be the norm in progressing? ie targets
I'm 51, 5'10 and slim build if it makes a difference.
I just want to get some sort of fitness built up before hitting any trails
cheers!
0
Posts
To be honest 5 miles in 45 mins on road is a bit slow, on my MTB I'd expect to do that at an easy pace in less than 30 mins, I'm only 3 years younger than you, similar height and medium build (circa 80Kg)
On road I'd be looking at 30 miles as an easy starting distance, the key to riding on road is choosing a consistent effort you can maintain (like jogging versus sprinting) with good leg speed (should be 80-90 rpm, the natural tendency is to turn the legs too slowly (40-50rpm), that wears you out much faster although it doesn't feel like it initially) and use the gears properly so as to maintain leg speed and load, uphill should wear you out no more than on the flat, you are just going slower.
Off road (proper rough trails) then 8-10 miles is a good starting distance, same rules apply as above with respect to effort and leg speed, using your gears properly.
VERY important to get your saddle at the right height for efficient pedalling, your knee should be almost straight with the pedal at the bottom of the stroke, saddle any lower can hurt your knees and make your upper thighs do to much work, on rougher terrain when you are out the saddle more you may want the saddle a little lower to be out of the way, but no more than an inch lower unless it's really really rough!
Proper XC riding like the Peak District , Long Mynd, etc. needs more base fitness as there is a lot more hill climbing and rougher trails. Just keep riding and don't forget the rest days you don't ride on allow your body to recover and gain fitness.
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Wish i could do that, at the mo i'm knackered walking up the stairs at home. hence why i'm building it up slowly.
I dont want to be one of these people who go stupid then end up packing it all in after a few weeks
Cycling isn't like running, there's no inherent need to build up, you're very unlikely to get overuse injuries or anything like that. As long as you stay fuelled and hydrated you can just carry on as you want. No reason you couldn't go and do 20+ miles if you were so inclined.
No point in setting arbitrary targets, Rockmonkey's advice is sound.
Echoing Franks sentiment above, I wouldn't let distance be the main purpose of your rides though... do it for the fun, like exploring and stuff. Fitness will happen anyway.
I have to cycle 7 miles each way on the road to get to my local spot and I hate it. The extra miles are pain more than anything else, but as soon as my tyres hit dirt I get a second wind and am happy as a pig in poop
NukeProof Mega FR 2012
Cube NuRoad 2018
Previous:
2015 Genesis CdF 10, 2014 Cube Hyde Race, 2012 NS Traffic, 2007 Specialized SX Trail, 2005 Specialized Demo 8
You're right, the road miles do count for something and I can feel the benefit of it so hate is maybe an exaggeration. The back 7 isn't that bad to be honest as it's an old paved railway line, but the first 7 to the forest is all gradually up hill along a busy main road. Would be a breeze on a road bike or commuter, but it's a slog on mine. It's worth it, but I much prefer the days when I get a lift and do the extra miles off road
NukeProof Mega FR 2012
Cube NuRoad 2018
Previous:
2015 Genesis CdF 10, 2014 Cube Hyde Race, 2012 NS Traffic, 2007 Specialized SX Trail, 2005 Specialized Demo 8
In terms of speed, I reckon being able to maintain 10mph for 5 miles woud be something to aim for - so that would be 5 miles in 30 minutes. Put some bursts of energy into your current cycling (e.g. 30 seconds as hard as you can, followed by 90 seconds of slower cycling, then repeat etc etc). That will build fitness, alongside perhaps pootling out for a longer ride, not caring about speed - try an hour and half of constant cycling once a week. Similar methodology as runners us - interval training, long slow runs etc etc.
Matt
[Edit - just read your other thread about fitness advice and your health problems - puts things into more context. So my summary would be, find out what your limiting factor is for you in terms of speed / pace, and work on that. Ignore other people's speeds and targets, they don't have the same compromises to face that you have. Work on slow, incremental progression, and don't always expect to see instant results. You know your own body, don't bust it!!]
2011 Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc (son #4s)
2013 Decathlon Triban 3 (red) (mine)
2019 Hoy Bonaly 26" Disc (son #2s)
2018 Voodoo Bizango (mine)
2018 Voodoo Maji (wife's)
Why not ride out on the railway line?
The point of exit in the forest is on the other side of the hill from entry, so it just works best that way, plus I'd have to ride through the city centre and then the last section is a 1.3 mile steepish climb. The route is efficient as it can be, it's just me that isn't
NukeProof Mega FR 2012
Cube NuRoad 2018
Previous:
2015 Genesis CdF 10, 2014 Cube Hyde Race, 2012 NS Traffic, 2007 Specialized SX Trail, 2005 Specialized Demo 8
NukeProof Mega FR 2012
Cube NuRoad 2018
Previous:
2015 Genesis CdF 10, 2014 Cube Hyde Race, 2012 NS Traffic, 2007 Specialized SX Trail, 2005 Specialized Demo 8
To HT or not to HT is the question...
Depends on the gradient, your gearing and personal strength to turn the cranks, bit of a sweeping statement which isn't true on its own.
If the gradient is steep enough and your gearing isn't low enough you end up needing to apply more strength to the cranks to get up the hill at a speed to enable you to keep moving on the bike and if your personal strength/fitness isn't awesome you'll end up expending far more energy.
My reading of this article - http://theclimbingcyclist.com/gradients ... er-climbs/ - is that the power required to cycle on the flat at 10km/h is 9W (for a road bike) but to maintain 10km/h on a 5% gradient would be 132W, a huge difference in power input requirements. Following that logic, if you are comfortable putting in 9W on the flat, and then come to address a hill, even if you slow down to an absolute crawl of 1km/s you'd still need to find an extra 3.39W (12.39W total) to go up the hill. Gearing doesn't come into it.
Or am I missing the point?
[Edit - this article makes a similar point with more realistic values - 20mph on the flat, 134 watts, 5mph on a 12% grade, 204 watts - http://www.blog.ultracycle.net/2010/05/ ... lculations - gravity is a big enemy!]
2011 Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc (son #4s)
2013 Decathlon Triban 3 (red) (mine)
2019 Hoy Bonaly 26" Disc (son #2s)
2018 Voodoo Bizango (mine)
2018 Voodoo Maji (wife's)
How do you know what age he is?
jeez :roll:
Not just non-pros. Anyone can attack on the flat - you win races by attacking the climbs
That oversimplifies air resistance - you need more than 134w to sustain 20mph on the flat in real life, which narrows the gap. General point's there though.
It does, that's the point of gearing otherwise why do we have it.
But the fact is, to expend the same energy going uphill vs flat i.e. little effort you'd have to be spinning like a mofo and end up not going anywhere (stupidly slow speed) at all hence my comment about you're having to apply energy to move the cranks even in the lowest gear.
If you were in the highest gear on a flat and then tried to do the same on a good gradient you'd either be off your seat stomping the pedals and applying lots of energy or fail to do that entirely and fall off.
It's in the first post :roll:
However, in the real world humans produce power efficiently in a narrow cadence band so riders adjust their gearing so that they maintain a cadence which tries to match their efficiency.
2011 Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc (son #4s)
2013 Decathlon Triban 3 (red) (mine)
2019 Hoy Bonaly 26" Disc (son #2s)
2018 Voodoo Bizango (mine)
2018 Voodoo Maji (wife's)