Mega TR Comp VS Pro

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Comments

  • Dayz wrote:
    The fork and shock both need a bit of time to bed in seals, they are really tight from new. I would change the lower lube in the fork, Rockshox are often virtually dry in the spring leg from new.
    You're right about the tyres. I have a set of Rollers for my DH bike, they only grip when upright or cranked over, you need to be aggressive with them.
    I find a 34t ring with 11-40t cassette is plenty to get me up any hill without spinning out too easily.
    You should get the full gear range ok with the X0 chain device, mine worked well.

    thats good to know its just not me on the tyres, ill be more aggressive with them if thats what it takes, its just mentally preparing to go passed that washing out feeling...

    the XO chain device works fine, like is said in the top 2 and lower 2 gears the chain rubs on the sides of the top stay, i had a quick look and no matter how i adjust it it doesnt look like it will clear. the old man was looking over it with me and siggested i just rode it till the plastic wore away and quietened down! :D which is the current plan so far..

    I dont personally find any issues with grip from HR2's. I have the pressures around 20 on a tubeless setup and they seem to provide all the grip I want.

    I'd be tempted with a smaller chain ring over then range expander on the back. a 32t say would give a decent little kick down in gearing at a much cheaper price than fiddling with the rear range.

    As for the wide bars hitting knee/hard to reach, that sounds like some dodgy cornering technique as much as anything :wink:

    As always the TR looks a great ride and would have been on my list this summer had I been in the UK and not got a deal on the Bronson.
    Closet jockey wheel pimp whore.
  • CitizenLee wrote:
    As for loosing the dropper... again, try it on a few rides and I doubt you'll ever want to take it off. Best invention we've seen in biking in years IMO ;)

    ^ This is true. After just a couple of proper rides you'll find it second nature. I use it constantly. Even makes it easier to get on and off your bike if you get into the habit of slamming it just before you get off. :lol:
    All the gear, no idea and loving the smell of jealousy in the morning.
    Kona Process 134 viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=12994607
  • Re the High Roller IIs. I found running the front at anything over 20-25 psi made it feel like a solid lifeless piece of rubber. Dropping it to 20 brought it alive for me (I am 11st for reference). I had one on the rear but took it off as I found it tooooooo draggy. Replaced it with an 2.2 Ardent on my summer bike and a 1.95 Panaracer Mud something for my wet/winter bike. Hope that helps.

    Corners
  • Dayz
    Dayz Posts: 33
    Dayz wrote:
    The fork and shock both need a bit of time to bed in seals, they are really tight from new. I would change the lower lube in the fork, Rockshox are often virtually dry in the spring leg from new.
    You're right about the tyres. I have a set of Rollers for my DH bike, they only grip when upright or cranked over, you need to be aggressive with them.
    I find a 34t ring with 11-40t cassette is plenty to get me up any hill without spinning out too easily.
    You should get the full gear range ok with the X0 chain device, mine worked well.

    thats good to know its just not me on the tyres, ill be more aggressive with them if thats what it takes, its just mentally preparing to go passed that washing out feeling...

    the XO chain device works fine, like is said in the top 2 and lower 2 gears the chain rubs on the sides of the top stay, i had a quick look and no matter how i adjust it it doesnt look like it will clear. the old man was looking over it with me and siggested i just rode it till the plastic wore away and quietened down! :D which is the current plan so far..

    I dont personally find any issues with grip from HR2's. I have the pressures around 20 on a tubeless setup and they seem to provide all the grip I want.

    I'd be tempted with a smaller chain ring over then range expander on the back. a 32t say would give a decent little kick down in gearing at a much cheaper price than fiddling with the rear range.

    As for the wide bars hitting knee/hard to reach, that sounds like some dodgy cornering technique as much as anything :wink:

    As always the TR looks a great ride and would have been on my list this summer had I been in the UK and not got a deal on the Bronson.

    No idea what my pressures are but they certainly feel harder than 20psi, I only let a couple blips of air out of what the bike shop put in them when putting them together...
    CitizenLee wrote:
    As for loosing the dropper... again, try it on a few rides and I doubt you'll ever want to take it off. Best invention we've seen in biking in years IMO ;)

    ^ This is true. After just a couple of proper rides you'll find it second nature. I use it constantly. Even makes it easier to get on and off your bike if you get into the habit of slamming it just before you get off. :lol:

    I have enjoyed using it, think its a case for me now to try and read the trails a bit more, look a bit further ahead so i can make the most of the dropper post...
    Re the High Roller IIs. I found running the front at anything over 20-25 psi made it feel like a solid lifeless piece of rubber. Dropping it to 20 brought it alive for me (I am 11st for reference). I had one on the rear but took it off as I found it tooooooo draggy. Replaced it with an 2.2 Ardent on my summer bike and a 1.95 Panaracer Mud something for my wet/winter bike. Hope that helps.

    Corners

    same sort of pressure advice as paul. my only concern is i find it hard to maintain momentum at the minute with whatever pressures they are, dropping them further will make pedalling even harder, but maybe thats slightly a fault with the big front chainring also and a slightly smaller tooth will be easier to maintain...how tricky is it to pick a compatible chainring?
  • Dayz
    Dayz Posts: 33
    Checked my tyre pressures recently and they were spot on 20psi at the front, slightly higher at the back which is as suggested.

    After doing a bit of reading I feel the suspension needs to be tweeked away from the factory fresh middle settings, rebound damping is too low not allowing the front to settle so skips around and the low-speed compression damping is too low also causing the front to dive on the brakes and almost pitch me over the front!

    Next time out at some local trails I will hit the same stretch of trail repeatedly with different settings to get a feel for the difference they make.

    Also been nosing around at smaller (34t) chainrings, the most popular one on CRC is;

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/race ... prod109723

    does that seem pretty par for the course? I understand narrow-wide fitments (now i've looked it up) although makes the money i paid for my chainstay....redundant....

    As long as i get the correct boltcenter I can take my pick, any other recommendations?
  • peter413
    peter413 Posts: 5,120
    If you want to buy from CRC then take a look at the Blackspire Mono Veloce. I prefer mine to the Raceface I had and it's cheaper. Of course there are other options from the likes of Works Components, Hope and Superstar.

    What chain stay are you referring to? Do you mean the chain stay or do you mean the chain guide? I'm assuming you mean the chain guide as the chain stay has nothing to do with your chain ring. I'd ditch the guide, the Narrow Wide works nearly all the time for most bikes as long as you have a clutch mech, it's lighter and there's nothing rubbing so it's a little bit more efficient and quieter.
  • I'm using a Superstar 34t narrow wide ring on my Mega. So far it's worked as it should, not dropped a chain once.
    The biggest limiting factor on my Mega TR now is the fork, after a weak of rocky, gnarly lakes natural trails it's just too flexy. I was fighting to hold lines. I think I need a Pike or a Marzocchi 350.
  • Dayz
    Dayz Posts: 33
    Thanks for the advice guys, yes I did mean chain guide, sorry for the mixed terminology, not sure whether I have a clutched mech or not, will have to look it up, seems a shame to ditch the chain guide as im sure it was calculated into the bikes value :) wonder if theres a market for barely used second hand chain guides :D

    I dont have to shop at CRC, was the first place i looked, happy to go elsewhere if there are other recommendations.