Mega TR Comp VS Pro

Dayz

Seriously considering making a purchase in the next few months, and leaning towards the Mega TR after everything I've read/people I've spoken to but have a few questions/concerns if someone (one of the many mega tr owners) could shed some light (mainly is the pro worth the extra over the comp, in the grand scheme of things only £500);

The Drive Train
This is my main concern;
on the comp; 36+22 front and 11/36 10speed rear
on the pro; 36 front with chainstay and same 11/36 10speed rear

So essentially you loose the 22t from the comp in favor of a chainstay on the pro. Giving you less lower gearing options, Id hate to get to either a long ascent (nearer the end of the ride) or a steep hill and not be able to get up on the pro

The suspenders
RockShox Revelation RLT Solo Air + RockShox Monarch R
VS
RockShox Revelation RCT3 Solo Air + RockShox Monarch RT3
My understanding is that the units on the pro are more or less the same as the comp bar some extra adjuster knobs, particularly on the rear that allows adjustments of damping for different terrain/climbs/decents, do many people use these feature? I can see them coming in handy from a mechanical perspective but I still forget to turn my fork lockout on/off to make the most of that.

Avid Elixir 3
Vs
Avid Elixir 9
This one is obvious, id hope the 9's would be far superior

Reverb Stealth dropper post
I suppose this is just a quality of life luxury, not having to stop and adjust the seat makes life a little easier

I am planning on heading over to ubyk.co.uk in oxford as soon as possible as its not overly far away, would be nice if they had some demo bikes for hire to gauge size and answer some of these questions, but not sure they do, if anyone else knows somewhere that has nukeproof demo's id do a bit of travelling around

CitizenLee

I've have a 2012, so take this as me thinking out loud

If I was buying one now then I would probably pick the Pro over the Comp to save spending money later on. I have a Fox shock with CTD switch (climb/trail/descent) and use it every time I'm out, so would miss that. Not so much on the forks though, as I tend to set and forget those, but still always good to have extra adjustments. I also think height adjustable seat posts are one of the best things to happen to MTBs since we ditched the quill stem, so absolutely couldn't live without one of those. They're one of those things you can be quite sceptical about until you try one, and then you just wonder how you ever survived without it. The Elixir 9s should be a lot better than the 3s, but to be honest the first thing I would do would be to swap them out for a set of SLX or XT brakes, as I'm not a fan of Avids at all. You also get better mech and shifters on the Pro, better cranks too. As for loosing a ring up front, I've never had a bike with more than one ring up front since I got back into MTBs in the early 2000s, so again the Pro would appeal more to me in that respect. You could probably change front ring or cassette to get cover similar range as 36+22 front 11/36 rear though. I currently run 32t front & 11-36t rear which is a great Jack of All Trades. Might be worth looking at wide range cassette adaptors from the likes of General Lee or AbsoluteBlack if it's a concern.

I guess the other way to look at it is to buy the Comp and then use the £500 to upgrade specific bits and bobs. Not sure you'd get the same level of upgrades for £500 though, so you'd need to be selective.

rockmonkeysc

I have the 2014 Mega TR. It's a great ride.
I would probably go for the pro.
If you want extra gear range just fit a 40t range expander to the cassette. I won't go back to having a granny ring again.
The Elixir 9 brakes aren't very good, neither are the Elixir 3!
The better shock and fork are worth having.

Dayz

Thanks you two for the advice so far, so on to potentially the next stage, I'm roughly 6ft (184cm) 34 inch inseam which plugged into a few size guides online suggest a 19-19+half in frame

A Large TR is 18.5 seattube an XL is 20 so neither here nor there if anyone has any advice on that...

Also if one was to be delivered to my door, i imagine id need a few specialist tools to get it all together, anyone have a link to a guide or an article on such a thing? I know I need to supply my own pedals but everything else i could need will be in the box right?

Cheers

CitizenLee

I'm 5'11" and ride a medium, but I just like a smaller bike + it's the old one so a moot point really

I'd probably say large, but might be worth looking through some of the many Nukeproof threads in the Your Bike section to see what the heights and bike sizes are.

It should come mostly assembled so off the top of my head all I can think you'll need is a good set of allen keys, a Phillips screwdriver and a 15mm spanner for the pedals (which it won't come with). You may have to tweak the gears and will have set the sag on the shock and forks too but that's about it. A shock pump will be handy too actually.

rockmonkeysc

I'm 6'1" and ride an XL frame but because I want a long top tube and very short stem.
Forget about seat tube lengths for sizing, top tube length is much more important. Try comparing top tube lengths to your current bike allowing for differences in stem lengths.
You shouldn't need any more than allen keys, a screw driver to fit the mech stop screws and a shock pump to set up suspension. Mine was a custom build but I can't imagine there will be much to set up.

Dayz

More good advice yet again thanks, I'm a fairly gangly fellow but my 20" voodoo hoodoo sometimes feels like it could do with being an inch or so "shorter" (top tube length) so maybe ill use that as reference.

I have quite an extensive tool box for the motorbike so will have everything listed so far, including a shock pump as my hoodoo as air forks, just thought might need to do some installing/work on the BB or bearings/races in various areas, but doesn't sound like it.

Been on the old email with a guy at ubyk and sadly they don't so demo bikes or really keep any nukeproofs made up in the shop for testings, sounds like they actually have quite a small store considering the size of their website. so unless I can find somewhere else to demo or bump into someone with one that i can pedal around for a bit then I guess itll just have to be an educated decision

rockmonkeysc

Don't forget the Nukeproof will probably have a shorter stem than your Voodoo which will reduce the reach.

Ryan Jones

Okay so this is exactly the decision I recently made, and I went for the comp.

Being Buckinghamshire based, I guess this is from Ubyk (and if not, they're the cheapest I found and not really far from you) so there's a £500 difference. If you're handy with your tools, and shop around a bit you should easily be able to land a dropper post (I have the RSP plummet for £85, does the job), 1x10 setup (Superstar NW £25 in chosen size, Hope T-rex £60, Shimano xt cassette £35, Shimano Xt rear mech £45, one up rad cage£27, and xt shifter £35) and shimano deore m615 brakeset at £67 (utilise old rotors and mounts). Total cost £379. May need extras ie bleed kit, crank tool, rear cassette tools and a gear cable set as the shimano mech routes longer.

This setup is exactly as I've got, I've gone shimano as I found they wear better but swap in sram equivalents if preffered. Still leaves you £100 change from the Pro, which itself would require the expander sprocket to match the versatility so really it's a £160 difference before you claw back a bit selling the old bits. I'd say that would also be a more reliable setup long term, check the link in my signature for inspiration.

As for size, I'm slightly under 6ft with a 32" inseam and I like the large I went for, it's fairly short but not riduculously so (Cube's much praised Stereo has a shorter TT for a given size) so try before you buy. Nice bike however, doubt you'll regret it

Myster101

I'm 6'4" and ride an XL (although it's an AM not TR) but would be tempted by the large at your height, but as always you need to try them if possible. As for assembly all you need to do is stick on the front wheel, pedals on, straighten up the bars then clamp them, adjust brakes/shifters to you liking and stick some air in the forks and shock. Tool wise it's the right size allen keys, spanner or allen key for the pedals and a shock pump. Well that's all that I had to do with mine as gears were indexed and brakes centred in the workshop (did check all bolts etc though).

You'll love it if you buy one.

taffygriffiths

i'm 6'2", and i bought an XL Mega am...

i think i could have got away with the large if were being honest. sometimes the XL feels lightly long, and thats with a 50mm stem.

but.. i built mine, so not very easy to go try sizes!

i think you would be fine with seatpost length. theres a good 2/3 inches minimum left inside with a 350mm post!

comes down to if you like really short stems, and how long your upper torso is.

but.. i built mine, so not very easy to go try sizes!

rockmonkeysc

Have you tried fitting a 30 or 40mm stem? The steering feels superb with a super short stem and it will make it a little shorter.

Dayz

Ryan Jones wrote:

Okay so this is exactly the decision I recently made.......

Thanks for taking the time to type that up, your reasoning is sound, but I cant help but think that £160 difference equates to the better forks/shock and a lot of time and effort? :P

RockmonkeySC wrote:

Don't forget the Nukeproof will probably have a shorter stem than your Voodoo which will reduce the reach.

Okay what would be a simple way to measure my top tube length? As the measurement nukeproof quote on their website (http://www.nukeproof.com/products/compl ... ega-tr-275) is a fandangled technical drawing that gives the TTe number, am i going to have to do some techy drawings using my hoodoo (then calculate the difference with allowance for stem length? Their website/spec lists dont quote the TR pro's stem length.

Also on a nooby question, how do you measure stem length? is it from end to end? or from middle of steerer tube/bit to middle of clamp/bars?

RockmonkeySC wrote:

If you want extra gear range just fit a 40t range expander to the cassette. I won't go back to having a granny ring again.

I went out for a ride today for as long as i could (2 hours/15 miles) and made myself only use the middle ring on my hoodoo, which gave me a chainset of;

32 x 11/32 9speed

Which is comparing against the possible TR pro's;

36 x 11/36 10speed

I managed to get up all the hills i usually get up, but my thighs are really burning already tonight and I couldnt imagine going up any longer distance accents, that I found at swinley forest for example. So how would the TR pros gear ratio compare? Can anyone help me make an educated comparison? Is pedalling a 32-32 the same as pedalling a 36-36?

(Obviously there is a 36x11/40 (or 42) option available.)

I'd like to think the lighter drivetrain on the TR compared to the stainless on my hoodoo would make things a bit easier, and the fact I think I wouldnt have to run the rear pressure as low on the TR thanks to the rear shock, making rolling resistance a bit lower too but can anyone make an informed comparison between the two original ratios?

Pay day is coming up and I'm so close to making the call, just want to make sure I make the right choice/can get up the hills!

rockmonkeysc

32:32 is the same as 36:36 they're both a 1:1 ratio. You soon build leg strength and it all gets easier.
Voodoo top tube lengths are here
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... ileDisplay?
catalogId=10151&storeId=10001&productId=927849&langId=-1&categoryId=165499
Stem length is measured from the centre of the steerer to centre of the bars.

Ryan Jones

Dayz wrote:

Ryan Jones wrote:

Okay so this is exactly the decision I recently made.......

Thanks for taking the time to type that up, your reasoning is sound, but I cant help but think that £160 difference equates to the better forks/shock and a lot of time and effort? :P

Not a problem

The thought of the shocks did sway it slightly but I'm more of the set-and-forget type of rider so extra adjustment isn't an issue for me. I've also enjoyed my cannondale which was held up by a Recon Solo air (motion control) and a monarch shock so I've got no reason to doubt these will let me down. All the feedback suggests these parts trounce the Fox evolution parts on rival machines. I do enjoy working on my bike, and haven't had to buy any more tools for the jobs so that wasn't an issue for me.

Both points are personal preferences, I can't imagine you'd be disappointed with either bike though. Good luck !

Dayz

Right I think I'm ready, will be purchasing a TR Pro in a Large.

The TTe between what I have now and the TR Pro is only 6mm but with my current hoodoo having a much longer stem a large pro with a short stem should fight right in when I say my hoodoo feels a touch too long at times.

Going to have to do something about the rear cassette to help with the pedalling, which will either have to wait till next pay day or I'm thinking about getting rid of the dropper post depending on how much I use it during the first few rides and putting the money towards some cassette rings (I have a slight concern that with the dropper post and the suspension knobs and switches, ill spend more time fiddling than riding, or no time fiddling and not making use of the expensive stuff)

We shall see, looking forward to it

CitizenLee

I'd be inclined to ride the bike and see how you get on with before worrying about the gearing. It's completely different bike after all. As for loosing the dropper... again, try it on a few rides and I doubt you'll ever want to take it off. Best invention we've seen in biking in years IMO

Ryan Jones

Nice one

At least with sram transmission there's no need to faff around with different derallier cages should you wish to fit an expander. I'll back up the comment on the dropper post though, especially on a bike like this it's almost sacreligious not to have one !

paul.skibum

Dont ditch the dropper - droppers aren't necessary in the UK but they definitely add something to the ride. the ability to edge the seat down a smidge for that long undulating section where you are doing some pedalling, some jumps, some odd little tech bits, the ability to just smash the seat out of the way as you drop into some steeper tech then pop it back up at the bottom to spin up the following climb.

You may not have used one before but two rides in and you will be wondering how you went without.

As for the cassette - get to a spin class or two while you are awaiting delivery!

CitizenLee

paul.skibum wrote:

droppers aren't necessary in the UK

Poppycock! Droppers are necessary anywhere there are hills that go up and down, doesn't matter what country the hills are in

Dayz

Well managed to do all of swinley forest red+blue today only using my middle 32ring to 32 cassette so hopefully the 36-36 on the tr pro wont be as bad as i thought as id like to think all the expensive drivetrain would be easier to pedal [:)]

looking forward to delivery now [:)] just need to pick up some helicopter tape/rubber 3m tape and some pedals of my choosing...

Dayz

heres a quick question, I keep reading that he superstar nano's are concave, and Ive read that a good mtb shoe also has a curved sole, this all makes sense for the two to match up but here does that leave me with my flat/rigid dc skate shoes?

CitizenLee

DCs are perfect for Nanos, that's what I use

Dayz

putting a little list of stuff together to order whilst I wait for the box to arrive so far I've got;

Squirt chain lube; going to use this from the off, only place I can find it though is wiggle.co.uk?
Superstar Nano-tech pedals; anyone recommend the cheapest source of these?
3M helicopter tape to protect some of the paintwork from rubs etc

Anyone think of anything else they wish theyd done from box fresh?

Antm81

Superstar only sell direct iirc, a quick google for superstar components will bring up their site. Good choice of pedals though, I'd recommend ordering some replacement pins too, I tend to loose one very couple of rides.

rockmonkeysc

There are various sources for pedals the same as the Superstar Nano with different brands
http://www.carboncycles.cc/?s=0&t=2&c=84&p=940
http://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/c ... -flats.htm
http://www.blazingbikes.co.uk/nukeproof ... AImNvldXTo
http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/kona-wah ... 43504.html

Dayz

well seeing as superstar is out of stock, the nukeproofs have 2 less pins per pedal for similar money, I'm going to go for the carboncycle jobbies

did look at the wellgo MG-1's too, but they are cheaper and lighter, even though they get good reviews; just doesn't sit right with me...

CitizenLee

No matter how good they are, MG-1s look like crap. I certainly wouldn't put them on a fancy new bike. Can't go wrong with Superstar or one of the clones

Dayz

here she is







After doing a few hours at the forest of dean, and a couple hours of "tour de moor" across dartmoor everything is spot on, the only few omments id make is;

1 - the tyres seem very all or nothing, havent really played with the pressures, but straight up and down they are fast rolling and comfy but if you half commit to a corner they wash out very easy. The few times I've gotten over that hill and really committed to a corner and cranked it over a bit, they seem fine. but not very confidence inspiring at my speed (read; not being a corner demon)

2 - the chainstay system is very noisy, the bike shop has set it up correctly with the shims and the cog is dead center of the run, but in highest or lowest gears the chain rubs quite a bit on the sides of the stay, making an annoying noise

3 - the bars are considerably wider than my old bike, i knew this though but I have been surprised the difference it makes, making tight corners feel really cramped on the inside hand (punching myself in the knee) but the outside hand almost like I cant reach the bar. also the amount of crashes I've had already catching the bar(s) on trees and stuff!

4 - the gearing, I'm still unsure on the gearing, ive managed to climb everything ive come across so far using the 36/36-10 but couldnt help feeling at times that id like something easier, or if it got any steeper id struggle. My first option was to do the bigger rear cog mod and possible end up with a 42t

but then i thought my legs might thank me more if i change the front cog to something like a 34, instead of 36 which will make the crank easier to turn and give me a positive ration (34 to 36) on the easiest gear.

Still undecided though.

Other than that though, the bike is lovely, feels solid, the adjustability of the suspension parts is amazing, all the various "lockout" settings are useful and effective, bike is super plush in full plush mode and absolutely flies down the rough stuff

Am going to go looking for a suspension setup guide however as in a few various types of turns I get the feeling of "understeer" (to coin a car/motorbike) phrase, front just doesn't quite feel like it tracks where I want it to, also i possibly think the rebound is too high/fast as I found out when hitting my first tabletop take off ramp and it nearly flipping me over the back...

Another small note is the brakes, I knew the avid stuff doesn't get very good ratings vs shimano but they are better than what i had previously although i could comment that whilst they are very fierce and supply awesome stopping power, there's not much progression to them, with a very on/off feel which has caught me out a few times making the front dive excessively into some sudden hairpins/at the end of fast runs...

rockmonkeysc

The fork and shock both need a bit of time to bed in seals, they are really tight from new. I would change the lower lube in the fork, Rockshox are often virtually dry in the spring leg from new.
You're right about the tyres. I have a set of Rollers for my DH bike, they only grip when upright or cranked over, you need to be aggressive with them.
I find a 34t ring with 11-40t cassette is plenty to get me up any hill without spinning out too easily.
You should get the full gear range ok with the X0 chain device, mine worked well.

Dayz

RockmonkeySC wrote:

The fork and shock both need a bit of time to bed in seals, they are really tight from new. I would change the lower lube in the fork, Rockshox are often virtually dry in the spring leg from new.
You're right about the tyres. I have a set of Rollers for my DH bike, they only grip when upright or cranked over, you need to be aggressive with them.
I find a 34t ring with 11-40t cassette is plenty to get me up any hill without spinning out too easily.
You should get the full gear range ok with the X0 chain device, mine worked well.

thats good to know its just not me on the tyres, ill be more aggressive with them if thats what it takes, its just mentally preparing to go passed that washing out feeling...

the XO chain device works fine, like is said in the top 2 and lower 2 gears the chain rubs on the sides of the top stay, i had a quick look and no matter how i adjust it it doesnt look like it will clear. the old man was looking over it with me and siggested i just rode it till the plastic wore away and quietened down! which is the current plan so far..