1*10 chain line issues.

Lewis A
Lewis A Posts: 767
edited July 2014 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi all, I've recently changed to 1*10, and after a few hiccups getting everything set up (cassette locking seized, stuck cranks) it runs perfectly... Until I change into the 32 or 36t cog at the back, where my chain line seems to be causing some issues, in these cogs the chain fouls a bit on my chainring, making an annoying buzzing sound. It's not a huge issue, I'm not constantly using those gears, but it's annoying, and might cause premature wear.

Here's the specs of everything I'm using, I'll get a pic up ASAP.

Xt cassette (11-36)
Xt chain
Zee fr mech
34t superstar n/w
Shimano fc m430 cranks
All on a Cube analog fame

Any suggestions?
Cube Analog 2012 with various upgrades.
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Comments

  • benpinnick
    benpinnick Posts: 4,148
    switch one of the spacers on your BB to the other side (drive to non-drive)
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  • Lewis A
    Lewis A Posts: 767
    Is the spacer accessible as soon as you take the cranks off? I didn't manage to get the cranks off yesterday, I just cut the granny off with a hacksaw instead. I don't know if they were loctited on or something...
    Cube Analog 2012 with various upgrades.
  • WindyG
    WindyG Posts: 1,099
    Take a picture of your chainring and let's see how it looks. Have you mounted the chainring on the inside of the tabs or the outside?
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  • Lewis A
    Lewis A Posts: 767
    Inside, where the middle was. Is it possible to put a washer or something between the tab and the ring?
    Cube Analog 2012 with various upgrades.
  • FishFish
    FishFish Posts: 2,152
    I'm sure that you have done the obvious check of the limit screws on the rear mech. Ben's idea is good - moving a BB spacer to the other side will adjust the line by 5 mm (if the spacer is a 2.5mm). I think that you may want the Chain ring to come inboard ie towards non drive in which case remove and discard the drive spacer which will give you 2.5mm. Or do as Ben says.
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  • Lewis A
    Lewis A Posts: 767
    What check of the limit screws?
    Cube Analog 2012 with various upgrades.
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    FishFish wrote:
    moving a BB spacer to the other side will adjust the line by 5 mm (if the spacer is a 2.5mm).


    It won't! It'll move the chainline by 2.5mm - think about it. It'll move the whole of the cranks left 5mm.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Chunkers1980 wrote:
    FishFish wrote:
    moving a BB spacer to the other side will adjust the line by 5 mm (if the spacer is a 2.5mm).


    It won't! It'll move the chainline by 2.5mm - think about it. It'll move the whole of the cranks left 5mm.
    I presume that last 5mm was meant to be a 2.5mm and I agree, it will only move it 2.5mm, also it will offset the pedals relative to the saddle (though only by the same 2.5mm)
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    Who are you meaning in the first part of the sentence Simon?

    If you were meaning me. I meant 5mm for the whole lot. The DS will move in (left) 2.5mm and then if that spacer is put on the NDS then that moves out 2.5mm making total movement 5mm left. 2.5mm each side relative to your saddle reference.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Chunkers1980 wrote:
    Who are you meaning in the first part of the sentence Simon?

    If you were meaning me. I meant 5mm for the whole lot. The DS will move in (left) 2.5mm and then if that spacer is put on the NDS then that moves out 2.5mm making total movement 5mm left. 2.5mm each side relative to your saddle reference.
    Really? So 2+2=5 in your world.

    The 2.5mm spacer is now just taking up the 2.5mm space left by moving the cranks 2.5mm. Think about it.
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  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    No, 2.5mm + 2.5mm = 5. If you don't put the spacer on the other side then yes, 2.5mm it is. But that means you may be using all the splines and not be able to preload it.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    DONUT alert...
    You remove one driveside spacer so the cranks move across 2.5mm, you can't then preload the bearings properly as the cranks are too wide so fit the 2.5mm spacer on the NDS but the driveside crank hasn't moved.

    So moving one spacers from one side to the other moves it 2.5mm, it simply won't work if you leave one spacer off!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    Er no. The NDS has moved left 2.5mm making a total shift of 5mm, but yes only 2.5mm in chainline, like I said.

    It might work by not moving a spacer. It depends on the BB shell width and what spacers you're currently using.
  • poah
    poah Posts: 3,369
    what is your current chain line measure ment?
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  • Ouija
    Ouija Posts: 1,386
    Chunkers1980 wrote:
    Er no. The NDS has moved left 2.5mm making a total shift of 5mm, but yes only 2.5mm in chainline, like I said.

    It might work by not moving a spacer. It depends on the BB shell width and what spacers you're currently using.

    I'm guessing maths wasn't your strong point at school. You've LOST 2.5mm on one side (-2.5mm) and ADDED 2.5mm (+2.5mm) on the other....

    -2.5 +2.5 = 0

    Not 5. The chainlines moved by 2.5mm, the overall length of the bb and cranks is the same (0), the overall movement is also 2.5mm.
  • Lewis A
    Lewis A Posts: 767
    POAH wrote:
    what is your current chain line measure ment?

    Around 54mm I think.

    Here's a couple of pictures if it helps, though it's pretty obvious it needs to move inboard a bit. Chainring spacers would give me the most flexibility and time to ride my bike, but I don't know what size spacer I'd need.

    lbah.jpg

    r9g5.jpg
    Cube Analog 2012 with various upgrades.
  • Lewis A
    Lewis A Posts: 767
    Also, yes moving a 2.5mm spacer would just mean that both cranks move 2.5mm, as they would move the same distance to the non-drive side.
    Cube Analog 2012 with various upgrades.
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    I guess reading was not yours.

    Yes the difference in distance from pedal to pedal is zero like you say, but your left foot is 2.5mm further left and so is your right. So from an effective centre line (middle of your seat tube) you're actually 5mm to the left.
  • Ouija
    Ouija Posts: 1,386
    Chunkers1980 wrote:
    I guess reading was not yours.

    Yes the difference in distance from pedal to pedal is zero like you say, but your left foot is 2.5mm further left and so is your right. So from an effective centre line (middle of your seat tube) you're actually 5mm to the left.

    I'm guessing logic wasn't yours. You don't ADD both 2.5's together. The centerline has moved 2.5mm to the left. Period.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    The rotating assembly has moved 2.5mm to the left as has the chainline, whether you put the spacer back in on the NDS or not, the only reason you need the spacer is so you can actually preload the bearings.

    If your logic can't cope then go do it physically and measure it, then you can come back for your conical hat with the big D on it.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Lewis A
    Lewis A Posts: 767
    If the keyboard jockeys could calm down a bit...
    Lewis A wrote:
    Chainring spacers would give me the most flexibility and time to ride my bike, but I don't know what size spacer I'd need.
    Cube Analog 2012 with various upgrades.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I wouldn't space the chainring as you lose the location tabs effect and all the load is then taken by the bolts.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Lewis A
    Lewis A Posts: 767
    What does moving the bb spacer entail? Is it fairly easy?
    Cube Analog 2012 with various upgrades.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Undo pinch bolts, undo and remove preload cap, remove NDS crank and then DS crank and axle, undo driveside bearing, remove one spacer and refit, remove NDS bearing, fit extra spacer and refit, refit cranks (refitting is the reverse of removal).
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Lewis A
    Lewis A Posts: 767
    My cranks aren't htii...
    Cube Analog 2012 with various upgrades.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    In that case no spacers, and to know how to change them we need to know what you have.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Lewis A
    Lewis A Posts: 767
    Lewis A wrote:
    Here's the specs of everything I'm using, I'll get a pic up ASAP.

    Xt cassette (11-36)
    Xt chain
    Zee fr mech
    34t superstar n/w
    Shimano fc m430 cranks
    All on a Cube analog fame

    Any suggestions?
    Cube Analog 2012 with various upgrades.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Only way to adjust the chainline would be a narrower axled BB, not sure if they do different length Octalink though.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Lewis A
    Lewis A Posts: 767
    So I'm faced with either breaking lots of chainring bolts or putting up with the buzzing?
    Cube Analog 2012 with various upgrades.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Yup.....
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.

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