How do i do that?

meanredspider

Moles - you can get an electronic scarer thing - else it's traps.

Not sure I'd use a chainsaw on brambles - how big are they? :shock: Normally I'd use croppers (like bolt croppers but for the garden )

itboffin

electric moles? :shock: :shock:

and yes its big, 10 +years and a good 6+ ft deep judging by the wounds i have now i'm going to need to armour up for this job

rjsterry

itboffin wrote:

electric moles? :shock: :shock:

and yes its big, 10 +years and a good 6+ ft deep judging by the wounds i have now i'm going to need to armour up for this job

+1 for loppers - will keep the thorns at arms length. And wear a few layers and some face protection to avoid looking like something out of a slasher movie. Was thinking of glyphosate first to knock it back a bit, but it sounds like you'd need one of those crop spraying planes.

veronese68

How do you undo something that is on bloody tight and needs a lot of pressure but you know it's going to let go with a bang? Got the clutch off the Mini yesterday, winding on the puller with limited space but needing both hands. I knew it would suddenly go so was trying to place my hands accordingly, but limited space and access got the better of me. Now have cuts on both hands.

Sharkyssurfers

any of you use mavic open pro rims if so do you suffer with the brake blocks not actually stopping you very well, I have 105 blocks on the front and swisstop greens on the back, but as soon as i apply the brakes the wheels just keep on rolling they do slow but are not good for emergency stops, as i nearly went into the back of two busses on friday night!!

veronese68

I use Open Pro CDs and have no problems at all, but I do have disc brakes.

davis

meanredspider wrote:

For Q1:

You want a thixotropic contact adhesive like Evo-Stik

Nah. You need more flex in soles of shoes, and I've found Shoegoo/Freesole is better.

Failing that, look here.

meanredspider

Veronese68 wrote:

How do you undo something that is on bloody tight and needs a lot of pressure but you know it's going to let go with a bang? Got the clutch off the Mini yesterday, winding on the puller with limited space but needing both hands. I knew it would suddenly go so was trying to place my hands accordingly, but limited space and access got the better of me. Now have cuts on both hands.

I know that feeling V68. It depends a bit on the location. Obviously, the longer the lever you can get on it, the less force you have to apply and the longer travel there is. Worst case, wear thick gloves!

drlodge

Sharkyssurfers wrote:

any of you use mavic open pro rims if so do you suffer with the brake blocks not actually stopping you very well, I have 105 blocks on the front and swisstop greens on the back, but as soon as i apply the brakes the wheels just keep on rolling they do slow but are not good for emergency stops, as i nearly went into the back of two busses on friday night!!

I've got Open Pro CDs, Swisstop black shoes on Ultegra calipers and they work a treat.

jejv

Sharkyssurfers wrote:

any of you use mavic open pro rims if so do you suffer with the brake blocks not actually stopping you very well, I have 105 blocks on the front and swisstop greens on the back, but as soon as i apply the brakes the wheels just keep on rolling they do slow but are not good for emergency stops, as i nearly went into the back of two busses on friday night!!

Try putting the SwissStops on the front and the 105's on the back ?

We're all Koolstop Salmon or Salmon/Black here, so we don't have direct experience of either 105s or SwissStop Green.

One of the daft things about bike brakes is that rear brakes generally have the same leverage as front brakes, when what we want is a lot less leverage - or lower (friction force)/(lever force) at the back.

If we grab a handful of rear brake in a tight spot, we don't want it to lock.

Some frame designers understand this, and on V/Canti frames, they'll position the bosses slightly differently front & back to give more leverage front & less leverage back. But they have limited freedom to do this.

Sharkyssurfers

Thanks for the replies, I might give the koolstops ago, as I use to have the swisstops on the front and then moved them to the rear.

jejv

Sharkyssurfers wrote:

Thanks for the replies, I might give the koolstops ago, as I use to have the swisstops on the front and then moved them to the rear.

Last time I nosed around, most folk who had tried both preferred swisstop green to koolstop salmon.
Not unanimous though.

Koolstop salmon seem good enough, and we have plenty of stock, so we'll use them up.

[Edit] I'm guessing the swisstops brake harder (bigger mu) than the 105s. If that's right, the swisstops on the front will help. On the back you want a pad that has lower [sic] mu, but doesn't collect swarf & wear out your rims.

Sharkyssurfers

yeah i'm a true believer of the swisstops, but its just on these wheels I am having an issue, which I hoped was a common problem for these wheels

porlyworly

Does anyone use valve extenders? Are they easy to swap in the event of a puncture or are they more aggro than they are worth?

Moved house recently and the commute is a bit further so have been using my best bike (RS80-C50 wheels). A mate gave me a spare long valve (it's been patched a few times so has seen better days!) but have a box full of short valve ones.

drlodge

I've got valve extenders on my tubs, fitted an extender on the spare tub since I don't want to be messing when I get a flat. Suggest you put a spare extender on your spare inners.

itboffin

105 5700 series brake pads are made of cheese, ditch them before they ditch you