How do i do that?

itboffin

I think we're missing a thread where we can ask and impart our worldly knowledge on all subjects cycling and otherwise.

Such as this ....

I need to glue the sole back on some shoes, what make of glue would you recommend?

I've tried gorilla glue it didn't hold long enough

leeefm

You could save yourself the faff and take them to Timpsons.

What kind of sole is it, to what kind of upper (i.e. rubber sole/leather upper).

rubertoe

I just get my man to do such things.....

greg66_tri_v2.0

Gorilla glue? Is that glue made of gorillas? I thought horses had the monopoly on that gig.

Use one of those two-part mix 'em up epoxies.

Or buy some new shoes, Imelda.

drlodge

You probably would have better luck with this

goonz

veronese68

Cow gum. Or another sort of contact adhesive.
Or the stuff with part number UBS110 on here: http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=672&SortOrder=6
Although a 1 litre pot is probably a bit excessive.

ETA: In response to the title I would say in your case do whatever it is very carefully.

jzed

Awaits thread "Visit to A&E after glue incident"

itboffin

i'll ignore most of those responses, but shoegoo that looks promising thanks

CiB

Q2

The plastic end cap has come off my good squash bat's handle making my game worse than it was. The staples that did hold it won't go through the plastic and the holes are crumbling away on the handle itself making it impractical to re-use the existing holes. I tried glueing it with No More Nails but it lasted 2 games (won them though, 6-9, 7-9) then came adrift.

Any recommendations either for a good glue that can handle the twisting and rotational forces, or a better way of holding it in place? It's a round end with the centre hollowed out so no option for screws, nails etc.

rjsterry

CiB wrote:

Q2

The plastic end cap has come off my good squash bat's handle making my game worse than it was. The staples that did hold it won't go through the plastic and the holes are crumbling away on the handle itself making it impractical to re-use the existing holes. I tried glueing it with No More Nails but it lasted 2 games (won them though, 6-9, 7-9) then came adrift.

Any recommendations either for a good glue that can handle the twisting and rotational forces, or a better way of holding it in place? It's a round end with the centre hollowed out so no option for screws, nails etc.

Could you fit some sort of bung into the open end, then screw into that? A whittled down wine cork would do the job, and wouldn't add too much weight.

CiB

rjsterry wrote:

Could you fit some sort of bung into the open end, then screw into that? A whittled down wine cork would do the job, and wouldn't add too much weight.

Genius. This why this place exists. Cheers - I'll give it a go.

elbowloh

As a bonus, fill the handle with wine and when a little tipple is required mid-game, simply uncork and take a sip.

Coach H

CiB wrote:

Q2

The plastic end cap has come off my good squash bat's handle making my game worse than it was. The staples that did hold it won't go through the plastic and the holes are crumbling away on the handle itself making it impractical to re-use the existing holes. I tried glueing it with No More Nails but it lasted 2 games (won them though, 6-9, 7-9) then came adrift.

Any recommendations either for a good glue that can handle the twisting and rotational forces, or a better way of holding it in place? It's a round end with the centre hollowed out so no option for screws, nails etc.

Would it be to easy just to tape it on with leccy tape then wind grip over as normal?

meanredspider

For Q1 and Q2

You want a thixotropic contact adhesive like Evo-Stik

Make sure both surfaces are roughened to key the glue in (same as doing a patch puncture repair)

Apply adhesive to both surfaces and allow to dry. Apply again and then, after around 5 mins, bring them together and apply pressure for a few minutes (care because they will "grab" instantly). Allow 24 hours to dry fully.

I've used this on loads of things including classic car soft top installations - it's great.

I don't think 2-part epoxy would work very well for this.

veronese68

meanredspider wrote:

For Q1 and Q2

You want a thixotropic contact adhesive like Evo-Stik

Make sure both surfaces are roughened to key the glue in (same as doing a patch puncture repair)

Apply adhesive to both surfaces and allow to dry. Apply again and then, after around 5 mins, bring them together and apply pressure for a few minutes (care because they will "grab" instantly). Allow 24 hours to dry fully.

I've used this on loads of things including classic car soft top installations - it's great.

I don't think 2-part epoxy would work very well for this.

That's what I said, just that you sound like you know what you're talking about.

cookeeemonster

Question: Why aren't footbeds in spd (or other) clipless shoes waterproof? I mean there's a big hole in the bottom of your shoe??!?!

Or are other people using some kind of waterproof tape etc to block up the hole that didn't come with my shoe?? TELL ME!!!!!

goonz

Nope, my shoes came with a piece of 'waterproof' sticky tape which is useless. Just get wet then dry them.

itboffin

shoes need ventilation have you not noticed how hot your feet get?

as for water in well it also comes out just as well, in fact my mtb commuter shoes are sitting by the door waiting on a full scrub after this weekends trudge through the mud

cookeeemonster

itboffin wrote:

shoes need ventilation have you not noticed how hot your feet get?

yeah but I didnt think the heat would go out via the hole in the bottom so much (due to the footbed being in the way).

only thought of mentioning it as my feet got wet stupidly quickly from the bottom on leaving work last night, and while it's not so bad for the commute home, for the commute in its a pain as they'll still be wet when leaving work.

1st world problems...

roger_merriman

CookeeeMonster wrote:

itboffin wrote:

shoes need ventilation have you not noticed how hot your feet get?

yeah but I didnt think the heat would go out via the hole in the bottom so much (due to the footbed being in the way).

only thought of mentioning it as my feet got wet stupidly quickly from the bottom on leaving work last night, and while it's not so bad for the commute home, for the commute in its a pain as they'll still be wet when leaving work.

1st world problems...

I've retired some shoes, since I got fed up with the getting wet feet/socks at work if I stepped nr a puddle I use flats so I don't take the cover off. New shoes are dry, even walking about in the rain the other day.

timothyw

Just lift up the insole and smother the offending area in Gaffer tape or similar waterproof tape, it isn't that hard surely?

First.Aspect

Mouldable duct-tape Bont.

itboffin

reminds my of the winter overshoes post a while back

itboffin

If you're planning on doing some remote out of the way cycling adventures this you need something like the SPOT connect http://www.findmespot.com/en/index.php?cid=116

and a first aid kit of course

The device is cheap enough but the subscription makes it a bit more pricey, i guess it depends on how often you're out in the sticks alone.

Mr_Cellophane

Veronese68 wrote:

meanredspider wrote:

For Q1 and Q2

You want a thixotropic contact adhesive like Evo-Stik

Make sure both surfaces are roughened to key the glue in (same as doing a patch puncture repair)

Apply adhesive to both surfaces and allow to dry. Apply again and then, after around 5 mins, bring them together and apply pressure for a few minutes (care because they will "grab" instantly). Allow 24 hours to dry fully.

I've used this on loads of things including classic car soft top installations - it's great.

I don't think 2-part epoxy would work very well for this.

That's what I said, just that you sound like you know what you're talking about.

Sounded like a load of cobblers to me.

itboffin

I can confirm the ShoeGoo works very well, you do need to be a bit more careful than i was or it'll look ugly.

My next question is less how more what?

What cordless drill should I be looking for?
for years i've suffered cheapO brands that just dont live up to the job ....

meanredspider

itboffin wrote:

What cordless drill should I be looking for?
for years i've suffered cheapO brands that just dont live up to the job ....

Nothing worse than cheap tools - ALWAYS a mistake

DeWalt are very good. Shop around a good deals can be found

veronese68

Mate of mine bought a lovely little Bosch drill/driver with a Li-ion battery. Small but seems powerful and it isn't flat every time you go to use it. I've got a pretty good pair of Riyobi rechargeables but they are Ni/Mh and don't seem to hold charge as well when not in use. De Walt are very good, but pricey so shop around as MRS said.

leeefm

Makita. Most tradesmen that I know use them.

itboffin

two more how do i questions

moles, the little digging kind have just arrived at the fence edge, i know they can destroy a garden in days, any suggestions?

brambles have also spent 10+ years growing into a monster border between my fence and the field, chainsaw attack or something else?