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SecteurSecteur Posts: 1,971
edited July 2014 in Road buying advice
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  • robbo2011robbo2011 Posts: 1,017
    I have no experience, sorry.

    But I would just like to say that it must be so disappointing for the owners when a beautiful brand new bike like the one above is creaking away after just one week. Really shoddy engineering and design. Such a pity.
  • SecteurSecteur Posts: 1,971
    robbo2011 wrote:
    I have no experience, sorry.

    But I would just like to say that it must be so disappointing for the owners when a beautiful brand new bike like the one above is creaking away after just one week. Really shoddy engineering and design. Such a pity.

    +1000, but the way I see it, I invested in the frame rather than the BB, which I can switch to Ultegra for £400 total, including tools (and that's for the higher cost ceramic bearing PraxisWorks BB - £350 for the standard stainless steel BB version).

    This should make the bike perfect.
  • sungodsungod Posts: 14,361
    1 week old?

    so it's been assembled by an incompetent and/or built with censored parts

    why waste time/money? just return it and get them to fix it
    my bike - faster than god's and twice as shiny
  • roktrokt Posts: 493
    I recently changed my Ultegra 50/34 to a Dura Ace 52/36 and I've had no problems at all, infact it's one of my best upgrades !

    I also live in a very hilly area and it suits me better than the compact set up.

    I had the day of work on Tuesday last week and with a couple of mates we did part of the TDF route, Huddersfield to Sheffield and as you know the includes Holme Moss and I climbed that OK.
  • SecteurSecteur Posts: 1,971
    Rokt wrote:
    I recently changed my Ultegra 50/34 to a Dura Ace 52/36 and I've had no problems at all, infact it's one of my best upgrades !

    I also live in a very hilly area and it suits me better than the compact set up.

    I had the day of work on Tuesday last week and with a couple of mates we did part of the TDF route, Huddersfield to Sheffield and as you know the includes Holme Moss and I climbed that OK.

    That's encouraging - thanks!
  • matt-hmatt-h Posts: 847
    I ditched BB30 on my build.
    Wanted the ultegra 6800 chainset to match the rest of the group.

    Had BB30 on previous and never gave me trouble in over 5000km


    Matt
  • StarsboyStarsboy Posts: 66
    Just changed from BB30 (same issue and 3 bearing changes) to praxis and Rotor 3d crank. Kept to 50/34 but NO more creaking
  • spanner239spanner239 Posts: 181
    Be careful, the Praxis conversion will not work in all frames. Specifically mentioned on the Praxis website is the 2014 Synapse, check out the link below.

    https://praxiscycles.com/wp-content/upl ... ConvBB.pdf
  • SecteurSecteur Posts: 1,971
    edited May 2016
    spanner239 wrote:
    Be careful, the Praxis conversion will not work in all frames. Specifically mentioned on the Praxis website is the 2014 Synapse, check out the link below.

    https://praxiscycles.com/wp-content/upl ... ConvBB.pdf
  • SecteurSecteur Posts: 1,971
    edited May 2016
    Error
  • spanner239spanner239 Posts: 181
    Sorry!

    Not content with developing a "standard" that is a total pain for your average cyclist, they then go and develop a new version of the "standard". Total and utter madness and I feel for you.

    Some discussion on here about running bb30a with Wheels Manufacturing adaptors, may be worth a read:

    http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum ... 3&t=124927
  • trailflowtrailflow Posts: 1,311
    The creaking is probably to do with the bearings outer surface/bb30 shell or the crank spindle being bone dry. You could try removing the crank and applying a load of spray grease and normal grease all around those area's. I think that would cure it.
  • MisterMuncherMisterMuncher Posts: 1,302
    A Cannondale Hollowgram is about 270-300g lighter than 6800 Ultegra. Not insignificant.

    I'd definitely look into getting the existing setup checked out before lashing out £400 to change the crank. At worst, you'll be no worse off changing over later rather than now, at best you'll save having to do so at all.
  • kim10kim10 Posts: 186
    Gutted for you, specially when everything else with the bike is perfect for you!

    I saw this a little while ago on the Bikerumor web site. I'm not the most technical minded so not sure if it any good but have a look. Its not in production yet as funding is being sought through the Kick-starter project:

    http://www.bikerumor.com/2014/05/16/bbi ... rformance/
  • mitchgixer6mitchgixer6 Posts: 729
    As already mentioned there are many reports of BB30 being trouble free. If yours has started to creak after only 1c week there will be an issue with how it was aassembled.

    Lots of good feedback about using Loctite bearing retainer compound on the bearings to eliminate the creaks. I'd be trying that first.
  • paulmonpaulmon Posts: 315
    I recently flirted with the Praxis/Ultegra 6800 setup on my CAAD 10 after the BB30 bearings needed replacing. The bike is currently in the LBS having the Praxis removed (I don't have a push fit removal tool) and I'll be putting my SL-K Chainset back on it.

    The main reason I swapped was so I could try a shorter crank 165 from 170. Even though I followed the fitting of the Praxis converter to the letter I suffered from creaking when out of the saddle which wasn't present before it was fitted. To be fair the support from Praxis themselves and the UK distributor was very good but I just couldn't get rid of the annoying creak. Praxis suggested it could be another component on the bike so I effectively stripped the bike and reassembled and applied anti seize and carbon paste to all relevant components and torqued every bolt using a torque wrench.

    Even after all this the creak was still there so I'm going back to a solution whilst not perfect works better than the alternative.

    For reference the weight difference between a 6800 compact with the praxis bearing and a SL-K compact with a BB30 bearing is around 140g.

    If you are getting a creak so early on check the crank is tightened to the correct torque (45Nm if my memory is correct).

    P
  • mitchgixer6mitchgixer6 Posts: 729
    Very similar story to me Paul. I did a load of research before building my new bike for this year. Quickly realised that the Praxis works seemed to be the best way to get a Shimano crank on a BB30 frame.

    Not long after finishing the build I was getting a click every pedal revolution only when out of the saddle. I was pretty convinced it wasn't the BB as they were meant to be so good. I tried greasing everything I could think of, but the click wouldn't go away. I even refitted the BB 3 times to the letter of the instructions.

    Finally I bit the bullet and put the OE BB30 bearings in with Loctite. I used the wheels mfg adaptor to fit the crank. Immediately the click went away and it hasn't returned in a month. So it must have been the Praxis adaptor.

    Like you the customer service from upgrade bikes (Praxis UK distribution) was second to none and they actually sent me a new BB free of charge. Just be aware that they don't always work for every frame.
  • philbar72philbar72 Posts: 2,228
    52/36 works really well on UK roads for me, using an 11/28 11 speed cassette i can get up pretty much anything though its never pretty to watch me climb! as for bb30's i've only ever heard that if they are assembled badly, they are a royal pain.

    I'd keep a 50/34 if you were to do something a bit more alp like! having said that i did Liege bastogne liege on a 52/36 and a 11/28.
  • plumpyplumpy Posts: 124
    I built up a BB30 frame with 6800 using the Praxis convertor. It seems to me that because the two halves of the convertor screw together inside the BB shell, BB alignment is actually more "certain" than with either BB30 or a standard threaded BB and Hollowtech cups? I stand to be corrceted, but whatever, in my case it went really well; the convertor is a very good fit and so far, no creaking whatsoever.
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