TRP HyRd - should it be a recall?

ugo.santalucia

meanredspider wrote:

Why 11-speed? I guess you do if you go mechanical shifting? Di2 makes no difference.

What do you mean? Can you tweak Di2 to work at 10 speed?

meanredspider

ugo.santalucia wrote:

meanredspider wrote:

Why 11-speed? I guess you do if you go mechanical shifting? Di2 makes no difference.

What do you mean? Can you tweak Di2 to work at 10 speed?

I mean 11-speed Di2 brifters will work with a 10 speed Di2 RD

timothyw

meanredspider wrote:

I mean 11-speed Di2 brifters will work with a 10 speed Di2 RD

Interesting. Could be a somewhat expensive bit of knowledge that

meanredspider

Yes - in fact the road disc brifters aren't called anything except their designation number. The only thing that makes me hesitate is that my bike has internal brake routing front and rear and that won't work with hydraulics.

ugo.santalucia

So what you are saying is that the derailleur is the mind and a 10 speed derailleur will know what to do even with 11 speed STI and these will only give 9 "change signals" instead of 10 to a 10 speed derailleur.
That's useful, but I still don't see the fucxing point of an electronic groupset on a commuter/cyclocross bike, maybe I'm just old fashioned... at the end of the day today I have seen two commuters on Ferrari and one on a McLaren... :roll:

asprilla

ugo.santalucia wrote:

So what you are saying is that the derailleur is the mind and a 10 speed derailleur will know what to do even with 11 speed STI and these will only give 9 "change signals" instead of 10 to a 10 speed derailleur.
That's useful, but I still don't see the fucxing point of an electronic groupset on a commuter/cyclocross bike, maybe I'm just old fashioned... at the end of the day today I have seen two commuters on Ferrari and one on a McLaren... :roll:

Indeed. If I go down that route it's going to be S700 levers with Apex mechs.

tgotb

meanredspider wrote:

Yes - in fact the road disc brifters aren't called anything except their designation number. The only thing that makes me hesitate is that my bike has internal brake routing front and rear and that won't work with hydraulics.

Why not? I have hydraulics with internal cable routing on my cross bikes; it's not that big a job to remake the cables (and you normally have to cut them to get the length right anyway).

meanredspider

TGOTB wrote:

meanredspider wrote:

Yes - in fact the road disc brifters aren't called anything except their designation number. The only thing that makes me hesitate is that my bike has internal brake routing front and rear and that won't work with hydraulics.

Why not? I have hydraulics with internal cable routing on my cross bikes; it's not that big a job to remake the cables (and you normally have to cut them to get the length right anyway).

I didn't think that they'd fit into the cable runs. The outer sheath of the cable brakes doesn't

tgotb

meanredspider wrote:

I didn't think that they'd fit into the cable runs. The outer sheath of the cable brakes doesn't

Ah, ok. Thinking about it, my cross bikes have a large diameter cable run for the brake cables and a small diameter run for the gears, whereas my TT bike has small diameter ones throughout. Seems a bit short-sighted to design a disc frame without cable runs for hydraulics though...

As an aside, TT bikes, with their ridiculously convoluted cable runs, would be the perfect place to use hydraulic calipers...

Initialised

meanredspider wrote:

Yes - in fact the road disc brifters aren't called anything except their designation number. The only thing that makes me hesitate is that my bike has internal brake routing front and rear and that won't work with hydraulics.

I did wonder why you didn't just wait and go straight to 105/Ultegra Hydros since you already have Di2 and seemed largely happy with your BB7s.

But, I know how you feel about messing with hydraulic hoses, mine still need trimming down to the right length.

meanredspider

I got fed up with waiting to be honest. I knew I could use the HyRd elsewhere so it wasn't wasted

Initialised

So do you see a difference with the replacement HyRDs?
Do you think they are doing a recall on a per request basis?

TBH I'm a bit concerned that my BB5s didn't last a year before the inside pad got stuck, forcing my hand on the upgrade to hydros, and it wasn't a particularly bad winter. I wonder if it was sintered pads leading to galvanic corrosion as dust built up behind the pad.

Maybe road disc brakes still have a way to go before they're ready for the mainstream.

meanredspider

Initialised wrote:

So do you see a difference with the replacement HyRDs?
Do you think they are doing a recall on a per request basis?

TBH I'm a bit concerned that my BB5s didn't last a year before the inside pad got stuck, forcing my hand on the upgrade to hydros, and it wasn't a particularly bad winter. I wonder if it was sintered pads leading to galvanic corrosion as dust built up behind the pad.

Maybe road disc brakes still have a way to go before they're ready for the mainstream.

I haven't really had the chance to look yet. I'll be riding a fair bit this week so I can see.

On the BB5s and 7s it's probably worth applying some coppaslip to the threads of the adjuster. They're very fine threads and ideal for salty water to get trapped. My BB7 seized on the rear of the Volagi simply because I hardly use the brake so I almost never need to adjust

Initialised

My front BB5 lasted longer than the rear for the same reason, the combination of brake dust, salt and water collecting in the caliper must be the cause and copper grease is probably the best way to prevent it.

The Rookie

I had the same on the CMD's on my commuter but sorted it before it got to bad (copperslip), although I've just bought some used BB's off a commuter that are in great condition, so you never can tell!