TRP HyRd - should it be a recall?

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Comments

  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,318

    Why 11-speed? I guess you do if you go mechanical shifting? Di2 makes no difference.

    What do you mean? Can you tweak Di2 to work at 10 speed?
    left the forum March 2023
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337

    Why 11-speed? I guess you do if you go mechanical shifting? Di2 makes no difference.

    What do you mean? Can you tweak Di2 to work at 10 speed?

    I mean 11-speed Di2 brifters will work with a 10 speed Di2 RD
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • timothyw
    timothyw Posts: 2,482
    I mean 11-speed Di2 brifters will work with a 10 speed Di2 RD

    Interesting. Could be a somewhat expensive bit of knowledge that :)
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    Yes - in fact the road disc brifters aren't called anything except their designation number. The only thing that makes me hesitate is that my bike has internal brake routing front and rear and that won't work with hydraulics.
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,318
    So what you are saying is that the derailleur is the mind and a 10 speed derailleur will know what to do even with 11 speed STI and these will only give 9 "change signals" instead of 10 to a 10 speed derailleur.
    That's useful, but I still don't see the fucxing point of an electronic groupset on a commuter/cyclocross bike, maybe I'm just old fashioned... at the end of the day today I have seen two commuters on Ferrari and one on a McLaren... :roll:
    left the forum March 2023
  • asprilla
    asprilla Posts: 8,440
    So what you are saying is that the derailleur is the mind and a 10 speed derailleur will know what to do even with 11 speed STI and these will only give 9 "change signals" instead of 10 to a 10 speed derailleur.
    That's useful, but I still don't see the fucxing point of an electronic groupset on a commuter/cyclocross bike, maybe I'm just old fashioned... at the end of the day today I have seen two commuters on Ferrari and one on a McLaren... :roll:

    Indeed. If I go down that route it's going to be S700 levers with Apex mechs.
    Mud - Genesis Vapour CCX
    Race - Fuji Norcom Straight
    Sun - Cervelo R3
    Winter / Commute - Dolan ADX
  • tgotb
    tgotb Posts: 4,714
    Yes - in fact the road disc brifters aren't called anything except their designation number. The only thing that makes me hesitate is that my bike has internal brake routing front and rear and that won't work with hydraulics.
    Why not? I have hydraulics with internal cable routing on my cross bikes; it's not that big a job to remake the cables (and you normally have to cut them to get the length right anyway).
    Pannier, 120rpm.
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    TGOTB wrote:
    Yes - in fact the road disc brifters aren't called anything except their designation number. The only thing that makes me hesitate is that my bike has internal brake routing front and rear and that won't work with hydraulics.
    Why not? I have hydraulics with internal cable routing on my cross bikes; it's not that big a job to remake the cables (and you normally have to cut them to get the length right anyway).

    I didn't think that they'd fit into the cable runs. The outer sheath of the cable brakes doesn't
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • tgotb
    tgotb Posts: 4,714
    I didn't think that they'd fit into the cable runs. The outer sheath of the cable brakes doesn't
    Ah, ok. Thinking about it, my cross bikes have a large diameter cable run for the brake cables and a small diameter run for the gears, whereas my TT bike has small diameter ones throughout. Seems a bit short-sighted to design a disc frame without cable runs for hydraulics though...

    As an aside, TT bikes, with their ridiculously convoluted cable runs, would be the perfect place to use hydraulic calipers...
    Pannier, 120rpm.
  • Initialised
    Initialised Posts: 3,047
    Yes - in fact the road disc brifters aren't called anything except their designation number. The only thing that makes me hesitate is that my bike has internal brake routing front and rear and that won't work with hydraulics.

    I did wonder why you didn't just wait and go straight to 105/Ultegra Hydros since you already have Di2 and seemed largely happy with your BB7s.

    But, I know how you feel about messing with hydraulic hoses, mine still need trimming down to the right length.
    I used to just ride my bike to work but now I find myself going out looking for bigger and bigger hills.
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    I got fed up with waiting to be honest. I knew I could use the HyRd elsewhere so it wasn't wasted
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • Initialised
    Initialised Posts: 3,047
    So do you see a difference with the replacement HyRDs?
    Do you think they are doing a recall on a per request basis?

    TBH I'm a bit concerned that my BB5s didn't last a year before the inside pad got stuck, forcing my hand on the upgrade to hydros, and it wasn't a particularly bad winter. I wonder if it was sintered pads leading to galvanic corrosion as dust built up behind the pad.

    Maybe road disc brakes still have a way to go before they're ready for the mainstream.
    I used to just ride my bike to work but now I find myself going out looking for bigger and bigger hills.
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    So do you see a difference with the replacement HyRDs?
    Do you think they are doing a recall on a per request basis?

    TBH I'm a bit concerned that my BB5s didn't last a year before the inside pad got stuck, forcing my hand on the upgrade to hydros, and it wasn't a particularly bad winter. I wonder if it was sintered pads leading to galvanic corrosion as dust built up behind the pad.

    Maybe road disc brakes still have a way to go before they're ready for the mainstream.

    I haven't really had the chance to look yet. I'll be riding a fair bit this week so I can see.

    On the BB5s and 7s it's probably worth applying some coppaslip to the threads of the adjuster. They're very fine threads and ideal for salty water to get trapped. My BB7 seized on the rear of the Volagi simply because I hardly use the brake so I almost never need to adjust
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • Initialised
    Initialised Posts: 3,047
    My front BB5 lasted longer than the rear for the same reason, the combination of brake dust, salt and water collecting in the caliper must be the cause and copper grease is probably the best way to prevent it.
    I used to just ride my bike to work but now I find myself going out looking for bigger and bigger hills.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I had the same on the CMD's on my commuter but sorted it before it got to bad (copperslip), although I've just bought some used BB's off a commuter that are in great condition, so you never can tell!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.