my frames too big so how can i improve the fit
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radiation man wrote:ive checked my size and some bike shops say 54 frame my head is cabbaged now
As you appear to be listening to the advice, I'm back in.
You're the same height as myself and if you're built normally with normal length arms, legs and torso, a frame with a relevant top tube of 51/52cm is ideal. 53cm at a push with a shorter stem. Not all frames are measured by the relevant top tube though such as Basso which is measured from the seat tube length. But a 48 sloping Basso is the equivalent of a 51.5cm relevant top tube. Confused yet?
Always refer to the chart from the manufacturer to check what the relevant top tube length is. This isn't the top tube length itself, but a horizontal straight line from the centre of the head tube to the centre of the seat post. It may not follow the seat tube line at all especially if it is a compact frame set with a sloping top tube.I ride a bike. Doesn't make me green or a tree hugger. I drive a car too.0 -
ive done a ride of 106 milesCurto80 wrote:How have you gone five years with a bike that doesn't fit? What the longest ride you've done on it? Fit is so crucial in cycling if you plan to do any decent length of riding. On the plus side, if you've had it five years it's time for a new bike anyway so follow the above six steps to cycling happiness.0 -
radiation man wrote:
ive done a ride of 106 milesCurto80 wrote:How have you gone five years with a bike that doesn't fit? What the longest ride you've done on it? Fit is so crucial in cycling if you plan to do any decent length of riding. On the plus side, if you've had it five years it's time for a new bike anyway so follow the above six steps to cycling happiness.
Congrats. Now what part of the country are you in so we can actually help you out?English Cycles V3 | Cervelo P5 | Cervelo T4 | Trek Domane Koppenberg0 -
lancashire0
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Finally. You're not to far from Cadance Sport which would be my first choice as by all accounts Adrian knows his stuff. Hewitt Cycles seems to be hit and miss, so probably not ideal unless you get to deal with Paul. Pedal Precision at the Manchester velodrome has good feedback and is a bit closer. There's also Rourke which is worth the visit.English Cycles V3 | Cervelo P5 | Cervelo T4 | Trek Domane Koppenberg0
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Go on the Canyon website, follow their body measuring instructions carefully, use their size calculator. This at least will give you a good idea as to what frame size you need. Some 6 footers ride a 54 because they can handle a big drop to the bars and/or they want to look like a pro.Pegoretti
Colnago
Cervelo
Campagnolo0 -
even when you get a new bike how do you know when the seat is in the best position0
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The seat should be ideally positioned so that your knee is directly over the pedal axle when the pedal is at 90 degrees from the floor (where your leg has the highest leverage on the pedal). Your cleat position will affect it a tiny amount but mostly it's the fore and aft of the saddle.
As for height, I tend to do it by feel now, but some rules of thumb you should have your leg fully extended when the arch/ heel of your foot is flat on the pedal, so your leg is slightly bent when the ball of your foot is on it (it shouldn't feel streched though- 1/8" too high is far more damaging than 1/4" too low!) and the method that happens to work for me +-0.5cm or so is putting my armpit into the saddle and then reaching the top of the BB with my middle finger- good for quickly getting a bike set up but does take some adjusting after riding to get 'just right'.0 -
thats how my seat is now on my 54 frame, so the 54 will fit me when i put a shorter stem on i have 110mm 7degree rise at the moment,0
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radation man,
You've received a lot of good advice on this subject, in this and your other posts, I really think you should consider having a bike fit done as has already been suggested, otherwise you will be just going round in circles with this one.0 -
Do you understand how asking for advice works? I get the sense that you're not going to be happy until we all agree that your bikes have been perfect all along and we were just messing with you.
You may as well just stick with your over-sized frames and compromised fit because it seems as that's what's going to make you happy.English Cycles V3 | Cervelo P5 | Cervelo T4 | Trek Domane Koppenberg0 -
i did have a bike fit done0
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At the bike shop that sold you a frame that was too big as they needed to get rid of stock? Who did the fit, Helen Keller?
This thread is the very definition insanity...English Cycles V3 | Cervelo P5 | Cervelo T4 | Trek Domane Koppenberg0 -
1. Get somebody to help out with regards to your measurements for the kit calculator:
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/Store ... orBike.jsp
Post them here.
2. What are your current: top of saddle - centre of bottom bracket measurement, tip of saddle to centre of bar measurement and saddle to bar drop height?0 -
Grill wrote:At the bike shop that sold you a frame that was too big as they needed to get rid of stock? Who did the fit, Helen Keller?
This thread is the very definition insanity...
just as well it's been split over 18 threads and 12 months :roll:0 -
A LBS sold me a bike with a frame that was too big for me
They assumed that I would be riding it in the "stretched out" on the drops racing position which needs a slightly longer one. And they got the estimation of the size wrong too. As it was my first bike I had no idea what the real problem was.
I tried a few different things like having a saddle that was angled down quite severely, and a very short (60mm) stem
Now I have a 80mm stem and the saddle as far forward as possible on the rails and I do ride it in the "stretched out" way. Also the last few years I have done a lot of core work which probably helps. The bike is very fast but I don't like using it for rides > an hour. I have other bikes so this doesn't bother me!0 -
I'm almost 5.7 (or was on a good day), long legs, short torso/arms. Correct size for me is 52 but still ordered a 54 despite threats from the lbs;)
I like frames which are too big for me, do not like small frames.
I do not care how the bike looks (no saddle to bar drop and saddle way too low) and I do not care what people think. A large frame gives me a more comfortable mountain bike position with a high head tube. I hate being cramped and I hate being stretched. I do not care about speed at all. I ride for recreation not fitness and can go for 150 miles before I get bored. Just get a short high rise stem and don't stress about it (nervous handling etc.). Do not move the saddle to compensate for reach. Sell or give away your bike to someone taller, then just buy the right size. We live and learn. It is not the end of the world if you didn't get it right first time round.0 -
Maybe you had to compromise but you bought the wrong frame type and size by the sounds of it. Did you not consider buying a correctly sized frame with a relaxed geometry and a longer wheelbase which would have suited your purpose better - ie a tourer?am7 wrote:I'm almost 5.7 (or was on a good day), long legs, short torso/arms. Correct size for me is 52 but still ordered a 54 despite threats from the lbs;)
I like frames which are too big for me, do not like small frames.
I do not care how the bike looks (no saddle to bar drop and saddle way too low) and I do not care what people think. A large frame gives me a more comfortable mountain bike position with a high head tube. I hate being cramped and I hate being stretched. I do not care about speed at all. I ride for recreation not fitness and can go for 150 miles before I get bored. Just get a short high rise stem and don't stress about it (nervous handling etc.). Do not move the saddle to compensate for reach. Sell or give away your bike to someone taller, then just buy the right size. We live and learn. It is not the end of the world if you didn't get it right first time round.0
