Handlebars

rubez

When swapping handlebars, I stripped a nut or the actual thing that grips the handlebar. So only 3 are really secure, but the other one is still srcewed in.

Is this OK?

What is there to consider when buying new handlebars?

Do they come with the grip bit, or just the bar?

Also, what about the spacers. My old bar seems to fit the old spacing well, but I don't know what a new one will be like...

There are a variety of variables to choose from on a new bar, example:

Select Diameter
35.0mm
31.8mm

Select Handlebar Rise
38mm
20mm

Select Width
760mm

How do I know what options to pick?

Thanks.

BigAl

And so it goes on.

Get some 'cow-horn' bars. Good for knocking goats over

pesky_jones

Its probally OK, but I wouldnt trust three bolts - I certainly wouldnt do any heavy riding on it. You stripped the head of the bolt? might be a pain to get it out if its just the shaft.

Bars won't come with grips.

Things to consider

Length - pretty self explanatory - direct length between ends of bar.

Rise - how far the ends of the bar rise above the middle part. (A flat bar will have zero rise)

Backsweep - how far the ends of the bar come back from the middle of the bar - measured in angles.


If you're just replacing the bar, you want to try and get the same figures on your new bar as your old bar in regard to the above factors.

rockmonkeysc

To make it nice and easy for you I have found EXACTLY what you need. No need to thank me, just order them and let this be the end of this thread for the sake of everones sanity.
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/251509975637

rubez

The bolt looks OK, so it must be the thing it screws into that has stripped... does said thing (that grips the handlebar - what is this called?) come with the purchase of a new handlebar?

Do you need to buy a new headset or any spacers?

Got an Easton Monkeybar, looking at a Nukeproof Warhead 760 Riser Bar...

edit: comparing these two bars, there is a 2mm difference in handlebar rise. What will this mean?

(Easton = 40mm, Nukeproof = 38mm)

pesky_jones

2mm difference in height will mean sweet FA.

the thing that grips the handlbars is the stem, and no it doesnt come with the bar.

No you dont need a new headset - you might need new spacers if you want to rise te bar, but if you want to just replace the existing...and your new bar matches the old one pretty much exactly (excusing the 2mm difference in rise)...then you shouldnt need spacers as it should be the same.

As for the bolt, you've probably stripped the thread which will probably mean a new stem

...only other way I can think is getting the Farked thread re bored at the next bolt size... probally a m8 - but this might question the intergrity of stem.

cooldad

rubez wrote:

The bolt looks OK, so it must be the thing it screws into that has stripped... does said thing (that grips the handlebar - what is this called?) come with the purchase of a new handlebar?

The handlebar holding on thingy? Probably not.

rubez wrote:

Do you need to buy a new headset or any spacers?

Only when you break those as well.

rubez wrote:

Got an Easton Monkeybar, looking at a Nukeproof Warhead 760 Riser Bar...

What are the model numbers?

rubez wrote:

edit: comparing these two bars, there is a 2mm difference in handlebar rise. What will this mean?

(Easton = 40mm, Nukeproof = 38mm)

Impeccable arithmetic. Einstein couldn't have done better.



ps I don't suppose anyone has mentioned Parktools?

rubez

I have put the old bar back on for now, not sure of the exact specs, I was pulling the Easton specs from a site.

So - when I had the Easton handlebar on, there was a slight shaky sensation to it - used the Easton stem too (had too) but I used the preexisting spacers and headset thing - the Easton headset did not fit (slide into place) on this frame.

When I shook the bike to check it, it didn't feel solid, why is this? I note the spacers could be turned by hand, when everything was tightened up, indicative of problem?

So, I put the original handlebar back on, all original parts, tighten it all up, and it feels rock solid again - and the spacers cannot be moved by hand now!

How can I ensure a new handlebar (and stem) will fit together solidly like this? (when the Easton did not, despite looking OK)

Thanks.

cooldad

Has anyone mentioned Parktools?

rubez

Is this how you spend your days?! :oops:

Does this place have an ignore button?

cooldad

rubez wrote:

Is this how you spend your days?! :oops:

Does this place have an ignore button?

Yes it does - but even Parktools won't help you find that.

Chunkers1980

Yep - the foe section.

Suggest everyone uses it on you.

lawman

I suggest a trip to the LBS so they can teach you a thing or two about bike setup, it would appear to be beneficial to your lack of knowledge, or look at parktools website as suggested by cooldad.

cooldad

Or page down until you see a picture that says "Gap here".

97th choice

Rubes, post us a pic of your bike would ya? I want to learn something.

rubez

All that parktools guff is as good as foreign to me, I have read it, but it means sweet FA to me. I have no context, or understanding of any of the terms.

If you are unwilling to explain is plain English, I'd rather you not contribute at all. Don't know why you enjoy skulking around this board condescending people.

Why do you want a picture of the bike for, I will post one when it is finally done.

Chunkers1980

Use the nice pictures then.

JBA

A picture speaks a thousand words.
A few pix of your bike might help people to understand what you are trying to do and they may then offer suitable advice.

lawman

As I said before...

lawman wrote:

I suggest a trip to the LBS so they can teach you a thing or two about bike setup

Will be better them physically showing you how to do it rather than us explaining it to you. If Parktools makes no sense to you a trip to the LBS is probably your best option.

rubez

You cannot see what I am talking about. The handlebars looked fine, but didn't feel 100% secure.

cooldad

rubez wrote:

You cannot see what I am talking about. The handlebars looks fine, but didn't feel 100% secure.

Fair enough. So in simple English, with non technical terms.

Threadless headsets work on the same principal as threaded headsets. The bearing races need to press against the bearings. The bolt in the top cap will put pressure on the stem, which presses on washers below the stem, which press on the bearing races, which press against the bearings.
NOTE: The cap and bolt at the top of the stem do not secure the stem onto the steering column. The bolt or bolts on the side of the stem keep the stem from moving once the adjustment is made. The cap is used for bearing adjustment only.
Begin by removing the adjusting bolt in the centre of the steering column. Next, remove the top cap. There may be a star-shaped nut or other fittings inside the steering column. The bolt threads into this fitting and pulls on the fork against the headset bearing surfaces, which acts to tighten the adjustment. Note the height of the steering column relative to the stem. It should be about 3mm (1/8") below the level of the stem. The stem needs to press down on the spacers in order to adjust the bearings. If the steering column is level with the top of the stem, another spacer is needed below the stem.
Remove bolt and top cap to inspect steering column. Lubricate adjusting bolt and re-install cap and bolt by hand only. DO NOT TIGHTEN.
Loosen stem bolt(s) that secure stem to the steering column. Lubricate these bolts if they are dry. NOTE: DO NOT LUBRICATE INSIDE STEM OR ON STEERING COLUMN SURFACE.
Wiggle the stem side to side to see that it is loose. If the stem is jammed or rusted frozen to the steering column, no adjustment can be made.
Align stem straight to wheel and gently secure the top bolt. Stop when any resistance is felt.
Tighten stem bolt(s).
Check for play by pulling back and forth on fork. Turn the handlebars in different directions while checking for play. There may be play at this early setting. Use care when grabbing suspension forks, because the legs may have play. Grab upper portion of fork.
To adjust bearings, LOOSEN STEM BOLT(S).
Turn adjusting bolt in centre cap only 1/8th turn clockwise.
Secure stem bolts, check for play again.
Repeat adjustments as above until play disappears. Remember to loosen stem bolts before turning adjusting bolt in cap.
Check alignment of stem and tighten stem binder bolts fully.

lawman

A decent mechanic will be able to diagnose it within seconds I would think.

cooldad

Pretty obvious that the stems are slightly different thicknesses and there is no gap between steerer and topcap. I did suggest that earlier.

cooldad

Or this

cooldad wrote:

Note the height of the steering column relative to the stem. It should be about 3mm (1/8") below the level of the stem. The stem needs to press down on the spacers in order to adjust the bearings. If the steering column is level with the top of the stem, another spacer is needed below the stem.

rubez

So... If you buy a new handlebar and stem, and is doesn't fit your bike, you're screwed?

pesky_jones

Haha ohh rubez you never fail to amuse.

If you havn't opened either packaging you can probably return them, but if you've tried to fit them, and that is the point you realise they are the wrong size - that's your own stupid fault

Also, for the record - its as simple as this;

If you want to do work on your own bike, then it's on you to learn how to do it. This means learning the technical terms etc.

If you don't want to learn anything yourself, or anything technical, then you can expect to fix a puncture and change saddle height, maybe put a chain back on, but nothing more.

cooldad

Similar to buying new jeans - if your butt doesn't fit....
Stem has to be the right diameter for the steerer, and the bars have to be the right diameter for the stem, everything else is adjustable.
(Please no one confuse the issue more with shims)
But as you profess ignorance of terminology, even though you use it correctly when your guard's down, it's impossible to say for sure why whatever doesn't fit.

Ouija

rubez wrote:

So... If you buy a new handlebar and stem, and is doesn't fit your bike, you're screwed?

No. It just means there isn't enough of a GAP between the top of the steerer tube and the upper surface of the stem for the top cap to preload the bearings and stop everything being wobbly. You probably need to sit the stem further up the steerer tube by putting another spacer underneath the stem.

Then install and tighten the top cap until everything stops being wobbly and then line up the handlebars with your wheels and tighten the side bolts on the stem.

BigAl

Best thing you can do with your bars is to try to knock some sense into that very thick skull of yours.

Wide, heavy bars will be best

rubez

I haven't bought new handlebars - these are my old ones I tried out.

When I tried them (and its own stem) out with the other bike's spacers still fitted, the bar that comes out of the frame (?steerer) went up to the exact same height relative to the stem as the old one did, so I thought the spacers must be correct for that handlebar too.

I tried the other headset, but it wouldn't fit into place of this frame.

The Easton and the Nukeproof are basically the same specs. So the Nukeproof would probably be the same.

Chunkers1980

None of that makes any sense.