SRAM Double Tap

andrewjoseph

Marcusww wrote:

Ive just bought a bike with Sram Apex - my other bike is Ultegra, I found the Sram odd to start with but I got used to it with no probs.

My question is about the right hand shifter - the gear lever can move to the left and stick to the left of the brake lever - should it flick back into position?

Yes, it should move back.

Check nothing obstructing and for free cable movement.

marcusww

andrewjoseph wrote:

Marcusww wrote:

Ive just bought a bike with Sram Apex - my other bike is Ultegra, I found the Sram odd to start with but I got used to it with no probs.

My question is about the right hand shifter - the gear lever can move to the left and stick to the left of the brake lever - should it flick back into position?

Yes, it should move back.

Check nothing obstructing and for free cable movement.

Sorry forgot to say you can move it freely to the left of the brake lever before it engages the changing mechanism?

diamonddog

Short tap to change to the smaller (harder) cogs or you push it further across to change to the bigger (easier) cogs on the cassette. The first click only requires a short movement to engage if this is not happening then your cable tension could be in need of adjusting or as said above it could be sticking.

Erasmus

Markus, the levers are adjustable for reach. It could be that the brake lever is 'in' more than the gear paddle and therefore the paddle gets caught to the left. If that's what's happening, release the brake leve to it's most 'out position for big hands (allen key adjustment under the rubber hood). Then there is a cam that can be moved on the gear paddle to set it's own reach. Once happy with this, bring the brake lever back in so that the little bumps just lighty touches the gear paddle. Good luck, John

marcusww

John,

You got it and thanks for the advice.

noodleman

I have Sram Red, Campagnolo Chorus, Dura Ace and Ultegra and i can honestly say the Sram knocks the others into a cocked hat. The shifting is so precise, if a little noisy but it never misses a gear and feels really positive when changing up or down. Never tried the lower tier Sram stuff but i think a lot of people are getting confused with this `double tap` thing. No double tap is needed. As others have said, its a short push to drop down a gear and a longer push to go back up. Simples!

StillGoing

Front shifting is smoother with less drop between the ring sizes i.e. 52/38 or 50/36 and a SRAM Yaw 22 FD even with 10 speed groupsets.

Slo Mo Jones

I'm new to SRAM and using Rival. Had a bit of trouble with the front mech, but since I tightened up the cable it works like a dream. Love it.

patrickf

philthy3 wrote:

Front shifting is smoother with less drop between the ring sizes i.e. 52/38 or 50/36 and a SRAM Yaw 22 FD even with 10 speed groupsets.

This. Installation was a bit fiddly but given a bit of time and watching videos the result is staggering. Seriously smooth front shifting even with 10 speed.

quartzknight

I have a problem with DoubleTap shifting, maybe some of you guys know the solution.

So I got myself a CX bicycle with a Sram Rival group. I have DoubleTap levers and a rear derailleur and just a single front gear.

The problem is that while clicking down to smaller sprockets works brilliantly it's hard to change to bigger sprockets.

During sprints I feel very confident about the gears. But if there is an uphill section coming up I really need to force the lever to switch gears. It's not a smooth move, I really need to push the lever hard.
It gets more difficult as the wire tension grows with the sprocket size and a more inward derailleur arm position.

Shifting to last two biggest sprockets requires some considerable force to the point I fear of breaking the lever.

Can this be fixed?

sungod

you can check the cables aren't damaged or binding, same for the rear mech, but if changing to smaller sprockets is fine it's unlikely there's any problem with them

force increases with tension, if you're used to shimano where the brake lever is used to shift (which gives you more leverage), the shifting with the shorter sram paddle can feel much harder, that's normal

but if you're using the two largest sprockets while in the big ring you're cross chaining, if the chain isn't quite long enough this will make it even harder to shift to the largest sprockets (and risk damage too)

drummer_boy

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19716406#p19716406]quartzknight[/url] wrote:

I have a problem with DoubleTap shifting, maybe some of you guys know the solution.

So I got myself a CX bicycle with a Sram Rival group. I have DoubleTap levers and a rear derailleur and just a single front gear.

The problem is that while clicking down to smaller sprockets works brilliantly it's hard to change to bigger sprockets.

During sprints I feel very confident about the gears. But if there is an uphill section coming up I really need to force the lever to switch gears. It's not a smooth move, I really need to push the lever hard.
It gets more difficult as the wire tension grows with the sprocket size and a more inward derailleur arm position.

Shifting to last two biggest sprockets requires some considerable force to the point I fear of breaking the lever.

Can this be fixed?

Does the bike use internal cabling? I have a PX XLS, and a Dolan road bike both withthe same SRAM Rival setup on there. I find teh internal cabling on the PX has a lot stiffer shifting, than the traditional external cabling onthe Prefissio.

quartzknight

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19716415#p19716415]sungod[/url] wrote:

you can check the cables aren't damaged or binding

the shifting with the shorter sram paddle can feel much harder, that's normal

sungod was right. I replaced the cable and greased thoroughly the insides of the cable shield. The shifter works flawlessly.

I would say it's comparable to Shimano brifters. I guess ungreased cables are more trouble some in SRAM Rivals because the paddle is a smaller lever than STIs and the more tension there is the bigger the friction that is applied to cables.

As for internal routing I cannot tell, mine has external cables. Thanks for suggestions!

Mark Alexander

My red 2007 set were intuitive and smooth from the first to the most recent so 6 years of perfect shifting.