Any Campag EPS Guru's on here?
Comments
-
Bumping this thread.
I've just set up EPS Record and the rear mech work perfectly shifting up and down the cogs, and the front mech trims away. The front mech also shifts from the big to small chainring without a problem, however shifting from the inner ring to the big ring the chain catches/grinds against the mech and chainring and needs a bit of froce to the crank to finish the manouver. Where have I gone wrong? :-(0 -
Velonutter, not sure if it's of any help to you, but I should have a spare power unit (V1) surplus to requirements very shortly. Won't be expensive, yours if you want it.0
-
proto wrote:Velonutter, not sure if it's of any help to you, but I should have a spare power unit (V1) surplus to requirements very shortly. Won't be expensive, yours if you want it.
Hi Proto,
Yes please, can you send me a PM with how much you are looking for?
Thanks.0 -
Another thumbs up for Graham for me and my LBS had to phone him yesterday for advice on grinding down BB30 cups , theres a link somewhere here for a podcast that he done on all things Campag hes deffo Mr Campag .0
-
thegreatdivide wrote:Bumping this thread.
I've just set up EPS Record and the rear mech work perfectly shifting up and down the cogs, and the front mech trims away. The front mech also shifts from the big to small chainring without a problem, however shifting from the inner ring to the big ring the chain catches/grinds against the mech and chainring and needs a bit of froce to the crank to finish the manouver. Where have I gone wrong? :-(
As promised on PM, hopefully for the wider good :-)
Things to check are:
FD bracket needs to be current Campag for correct spacing on FD away from frame and fore-aft relative to seat tube.
FD height relative to chainring's tallest teeth (2-3mm gap as per mechanical, remember the teeth vary in height).
FD angle relative to plane of the rings (the part of the outer plate opposite the hinge needs to be parallel to the rings).
Check the chainline - centre line frame to back of big ring = 43.5 mm +/- 0.5 mm This should be correct if it's a full Campag set up without any oddities.
If all the above is correct, have a look at the inside of the outer cage plate of the FD cage - there should be a plastic plate bonded to the inside of the cage but in early RE & SR units this bumper plate sometimes gets scraped off by the chain due to the force that the FD can apply to the chain, roughly double what the mechanical system can / will. Problem fixed in late 2011 / early 2012
If that plate is missing or damaged, that will be the likely cause of your issue.
Apart from that, it may be that you area bit short of gap between chain and derailleur cage when in bottom gear in the set-up. IME, around 1 mm works best which is at the upper end of Campag's recommendation - it's worth turning the cranks as you set this to check that the inner ring is straight and that the chain, as it rocks on the teeth of the inner ring is not misleading you about the gap - you are looking for the best "average".
HTH0 -
ugo.santalucia wrote:gfk_velo wrote:- like anything, it has benefits, it has limitations and you just have to understand the extent of both and understand that one time in a thousand, things can go awry.
What is the benefit over the mechanical version?
When the car industry embraced electronics, it did it for all the right reasons: better fuel efficiency, improved power output, improved safety in all areas... accidentally even electronic shifting (paddles and the likes) has been invented, but it's not very popular, as it's pointless
When the bicycle industry embraced electronics it did it for... smoother shifting? Wouldn't have been better to concentrate on an ABS equivalent instead of wasting time on a battery that provides smoother shifting?
Try it and see is the answer ...
My background is 35+ yrs of working with springs and tensioned wires, and if, in 2007, you'd wanted a confirmed non-advocate of any form of electronic shift, you could have come to me. I felt the same way. I'd used Mavic ZAP as a way of getting around shortcomings in the shifting on a tandem, I'd tried Mektronic for the same reasons and decided that was a disaster too.
So in 2010 when I got the call to go to the factory to see the pre-production of EPS and to talk to the Movistar guys about it, and to ride the product - oddly, I wasn't thrilled. Like Ugo, I struggled to see the point. I was interested, of course but a very long way from being sold on the idea.
A couple of hours of riding in the Monte Berica and I had changed my mind and was wondering which kidney to sell to get my hands on an EPS system.
The front shift is zero effort, it's just "there" in absolutely any circumstance. Correctly set, it never misses, it doesn't care if you are full gas or just twiddling along, no backing off, just shift and it's there. I defy you on a mechanical system to be on 34 x 29 and full gas to get a 100% consistent and near-instant shift to the 50 ring ... OK, you don't do such things often, but that *is* an illustration of why electronic shift has advantages.
Rear shift goes happily from 13 to 12, 12 to 11 with no hint of hang even under full gas - a mechanical system always hangs a half-beat as the spring has to overcome chain tension. This is also so in the case of electronic, the motor has to do the same thing - the difference is that the spring tension maxes on a mechanical system at around 1.6 kgs - more than that and it's too difficult to overcome it with the lever for predictable downshift action ... electronic in it's current forms can apply up to 5kg to the chain and do so in an accurately controlled way.
You don't have to worry about cable friction any more - so changes in frame design are possible that would be difficult with tensioned gear cable running in outers - so again, in critical competition situations, there is an advantage - it doesn't matter a bit that the aero benefit of hiding the cables away is a psychological one for the rider - it works, so it's worth having - and if it works flawlessly then that's even better.
Small hands? No problem, lever movements are small.
Weak hands - no problem, shifting speed / accuracy / viability (in some cases I have seen) is not dependent on hand strength.
You can shift from multiple locations - TT bars, brake levers or in Di2's case, tops of bars.
Wheel change with cassette in different place relative to the dropout? We can just move, without taking the hands off the hoods, the whole shift pattern right or left to compensate and that means you can slam it into top in the final and never be sat there thinking "will it go in or will it hang or worse - over run and jam between frame and cassette ..."
BTW - F1 cars still use paddle shift & I have driven paddle shift - in the circumstances it is designed for, it works well and is the perfect solution. For other uses, it's not the right thing ...
Isn't that where we came in :-D?0 -
Thanks Graeme, very interesting insight... I still think manufacturers put too much emphasis into shifting and not enough in other aspects of cycling... is shifting gear so important for me? To be honest I spend 90% of my cycling time in 49 x 19 or 49 x 17...left the forum March 20230
-
gfk_velo wrote:thegreatdivide wrote:Bumping this thread.
I've just set up EPS Record and the rear mech work perfectly shifting up and down the cogs, and the front mech trims away. The front mech also shifts from the big to small chainring without a problem, however shifting from the inner ring to the big ring the chain catches/grinds against the mech and chainring and needs a bit of froce to the crank to finish the manouver. Where have I gone wrong? :-(
As promised on PM, hopefully for the wider good :-)
Things to check are:
FD bracket needs to be current Campag for correct spacing on FD away from frame and fore-aft relative to seat tube.
FD height relative to chainring's tallest teeth (2-3mm gap as per mechanical, remember the teeth vary in height).
FD angle relative to plane of the rings (the part of the outer plate opposite the hinge needs to be parallel to the rings).
Check the chainline - centre line frame to back of big ring = 43.5 mm +/- 0.5 mm This should be correct if it's a full Campag set up without any oddities.
If all the above is correct, have a look at the inside of the outer cage plate of the FD cage - there should be a plastic plate bonded to the inside of the cage but in early RE & SR units this bumper plate sometimes gets scraped off by the chain due to the force that the FD can apply to the chain, roughly double what the mechanical system can / will. Problem fixed in late 2011 / early 2012
If that plate is missing or damaged, that will be the likely cause of your issue.
Apart from that, it may be that you area bit short of gap between chain and derailleur cage when in bottom gear in the set-up. IME, around 1 mm works best which is at the upper end of Campag's recommendation - it's worth turning the cranks as you set this to check that the inner ring is straight and that the chain, as it rocks on the teeth of the inner ring is not misleading you about the gap - you are looking for the best "average".
HTH
Many thanks for the info. I'll give this a bash tonight!0
