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Installing cartridge headsets

englanderenglander Posts: 232
edited February 2014 in Workshop
So I'm installing this headset into my Ribble Sportive 7046 Curved and I'm wondering how much force to put the cartridge bearings in.

The bottom bearings have gone in flush with the bottom of the headtube but the top bearings have not gone flush with the top - but I can't push it in any further (I've just used hand force and some gentle persuasion with a rubber mallet, but I wanted to check here before applying any further pressure lest the bearings get damaged). Need more be done?

Please see the illustrative picture:

mfObefVl.jpg
Specialized Allez 2010
Strava

Posts

  • Usually an integrated headset just needs dropped into the frame. That looks like it should be okay as long as the cap that sits on top covers the bearing.
  • GarryboyGarryboy Posts: 344
    Agreed. Just changed both bearings on my integrated headset. Bottom one was flush, top one sat a little proud, but was covered by the top cap.
  • nicklousenicklouse Posts: 81,520 Lives Here
    So how does it look when the rest of it is put together and the preload is added to the bearings?

    The pics you show really show nothing.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • englanderenglander Posts: 232
    Thanks for the input. Here's a pic of the headset without any preload (still working on getting the star nut in once I cut the steerer). There's a small gap - one that would disappear once the preload is added?

    KJEApeBl.jpg
    Specialized Allez 2010
    Strava
  • Yip, should be Ok once you tighten everything down.
  • Great,thanks!
    Specialized Allez 2010
    Strava
  • smd13smd13 Posts: 91
    Hi guys, sorry for hijacking the thread a little but it seems similar to what I was going to post...
    I've taken the forks off my '05 cannondale and the headset is 1 1/8", as shown in the picture. Basically, does it need to be changed (still rotate fairly smoothly just dirty!) and if so does it need to be a campag one as shown or any such as say these: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/cane-creek-headset-bearing/

    dc4u1u.jpg
  • nicklousenicklouse Posts: 81,520 Lives Here
    englander wrote:
    Thanks for the input. Here's a pic of the headset without any preload (still working on getting the star nut in once I cut the steerer). There's a small gap - one that would disappear once the preload is added?

    KJEApeBl.jpg

    It looks tight. Did it come with some flat washers? If yes you might need to add one or two to avoid contact.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • smd13 wrote:
    Hi guys, sorry for hijacking the thread a little but it seems similar to what I was going to post...
    I've taken the forks off my '05 cannondale and the headset is 1 1/8", as shown in the picture. Basically, does it need to be changed (still rotate fairly smoothly just dirty!) and if so does it need to be a campag one as shown or any such as say these: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/cane-creek-headset-bearing/

    dc4u1u.jpg

    You'll need to check for your specific bike, but certainly my old cannondale was campag headset. Think the angle was 45 degrees so as long as you get 1 1/8th bearings with the same angle you'll be Ok.
  • smd13smd13 Posts: 91
    thanks! Of course, now the issue is where to find the angle. Just had a look around the cannondale site but the manuals don't mention it
  • nicklousenicklouse Posts: 81,520 Lives Here
    Or just go onto Cane Creeks headset finder page and put in your bike and fork info.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • It should be stamped on the old bearing somewhere if you can clean the dirt off.
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