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help needed in assembling an old Benotto 27" road bike

owaisarainowaisarain Posts: 3
edited January 2014 in Road beginners
I am new to road bikes, and trying to assemble an old road bike.
I think the rear hub is displaced to non drive side. How could i identify the cause like whether its because of spacers, frame or curved wheel.

While locking the rear wheel with quick-release i look at two points for reference
1. Seat stays, rear break position
2. Chain stays, bracket position

While locking the wheel it seems ok from bracket position after a little adjustment, but no matter what i try it remains displaced towards non-drive side from rear break reference.

rear gears are shifting well while testing bike upside down, but when i ride and when there is some pressure on chain it makes noise like for an instant cog has slipped chain and then regained it, but only when i feel there is good pressure on the chain. I don't know whether it is because of rear hub displacement or not.

For this troubleshooting i have removed the front derailer and put the chain in middle ring at front side so that i can focus on rear hub and gears, its a shimano sis 3 and 6 speed by the way.

While in mid ring at front and smallest cog at rear the chain line coud be seen in one of the attached pics.
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B-E5MsGmHC4ARllaZF9SNjV6Nzg&usp=sharing

Posts

  • The hub still looks central. Had someone shoved spacers behind the drive side lock nut to move it over they'd be a bigger gap between sprocket and frame on the axle drive side.

    What's the over lock nut dimension on the rear axle? I ask as there's a lot of skewer showing out of the drive side nut and I'm wondering if the frame is wider than the axle and the dropouts are being pulled in.

    The spokes looked knackered so it might just be wheel is out of shape. Are the drive side spokes tensioned and does the wheel run true?

    As for the gears, it could be that parts of the drive train are worn.
  • keef66keef66 Posts: 13,123
    My guess is it's an MTB QR skewer. I'd just take off the excess threaded bit with a hacksaw; you could poke a nasty hole in somebody with that!
  • thanks for replying guys !

    first i take the wheel off and send some more pics with measurements, and see if wheel runs true in the first place (for which i will have to take the wheel to a shop since i have no tools !). i will post back soon
  • Monty DogMonty Dog Posts: 20,614
    I'd be surprised if it's a genuine Benotto with 27" wheels - more likely a UK built frame with stickers applied as an Italian built frame would be 700c. Most Benottos have embossed chainstay caps and fork crowns.
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • Monty Dog wrote:
    I'd be surprised if it's a genuine Benotto with 27" wheels - more likely a UK built frame with stickers applied as an Italian built frame would be 700c. Most Benottos have embossed chainstay caps and fork crowns.

    Benotto were also made in Mexico - I don't know if it is the same firm or just another use of the name. These bikes were common in the USA so might they have had 27" wheels. Also, in the past some tyres have been marked in imperial sizes although they were 700c - IIRC Continental did this.

    Anyway, one way to check what's wrong is to take the wheel out and put it back the wrong way round (without the chain obviously).

    If the rim is now closer to the other chainstay (than when in the right way) then it's the wheel which is a problem. - i.e., the rim not central ? Is it a replacement wheel which has been re-spaced (incorrectly) to fit?

    If the rim is still closer to the original chainstay, then its a bent frame.

    (Of course you need to ensure that its not both the wheel and the frame which is at fault).
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