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Threaded fork/headset problem

ferguslesterferguslester Posts: 6
edited January 2014 in The workshop
700c hybrid with steel fork and 1" (i think) threaded headset. The locknut won't stay locked. I replaced the locknut and this improved matters but looks like the fork threads are gone too. Even tried taking out the thin washer between locknut and ajustable cone. Options? Will threadlock compound sort it for a while? get a new fork? Some sort of adapter to take a new-fangled threadless stem?

Posts

  • nicklousenicklouse Posts: 50,675 Lives Here
    You do have the tabbed washer fitted? Without it things come lose.

    Reading the info on threaded headset service on Parktools would help.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • ferguslesterferguslester Posts: 6
    I took out the tabbed washer as it left too little thread for the nut to grip. Its slightly better without the washer and with threadlock compound. Really I need a fork with a longer steerer.
  • nicklousenicklouse Posts: 50,675 Lives Here
    ferguslester wrote:
    I took out the tabbed washer as it left too little thread for the nut to grip. Its slightly better without the washer and with threadlock compound. Really I need a fork with a longer steerer.
    And you need the tabbed washer to stop the bearings coming lose. Thread lock will not hold it.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,809
    Without the tabbed washer you are wasting your time.

    You could get the headtube faced to reduce the overall height and thus make the steerer long enough.
    Current steed - Whyte T129, 2013 frame, mongrel Revelations, Giant dropper, Stans S1 wheelset. 12, Magura Trail Sport brakes, 1x11. 12.8Kg
  • ferguslesterferguslester Posts: 6
    New fork probably more cost effective than facing the headtube. Any other ideas?
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