Threaded fork/headset problem

ferguslester
ferguslester Posts: 6
edited January 2014 in The workshop
700c hybrid with steel fork and 1" (i think) threaded headset. The locknut won't stay locked. I replaced the locknut and this improved matters but looks like the fork threads are gone too. Even tried taking out the thin washer between locknut and ajustable cone. Options? Will threadlock compound sort it for a while? get a new fork? Some sort of adapter to take a new-fangled threadless stem?

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    You do have the tabbed washer fitted? Without it things come lose.

    Reading the info on threaded headset service on Parktools would help.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • I took out the tabbed washer as it left too little thread for the nut to grip. Its slightly better without the washer and with threadlock compound. Really I need a fork with a longer steerer.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    I took out the tabbed washer as it left too little thread for the nut to grip. Its slightly better without the washer and with threadlock compound. Really I need a fork with a longer steerer.
    And you need the tabbed washer to stop the bearings coming lose. Thread lock will not hold it.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Without the tabbed washer you are wasting your time.

    You could get the headtube faced to reduce the overall height and thus make the steerer long enough.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • New fork probably more cost effective than facing the headtube. Any other ideas?