1x9 for XC Racing

Greer_

I currently use a 3x9, but, I'm usually just stuck in the middle ring or big ring when on the road (however I doubt I'd miss the big ring as I never use it when racing!). I have a funny feeling my frame just doesn't like triple cranksets, as I've had two different front mechs fitted, and neither have allowed me to get into the granny ring. Its almost as though there's too many spacers fitted to the bb, but there isn't! My race bike is also my training bike.

I want to go single just to simplify everything, and potentially stop dropped chains. Question is, what sized chainring do you think I'd get away with? I'm thinking 34t with an 11-34 cassette. I'm planning on running a RaceFace Narrow Wide Ring with a Sram X0 rear mech (not clutch) - would I get away without a chain guide? Does anyone on here race xc with a single ring? Chainring size seems to affect the higher end more which is why I'm considering a 34:

WindyG

I was in the same position as you, I worked out for me the best was 34t up front and 11-36 at the back with a 1x10 set up on a 26" wheel, I might end up getting a 32t to have an option for different courses if the hills are very steep. As long as you can happily climb hills with 34 - 34 and still be doing it on the last lap you'll be fine. I don't use a clutch mech but did try a top guide on one bike for a while but it just got clogged up with mud so took it off, I've not dropped a chain yet.

Greer_

Was talking to guys when I was out today (races the category above me) and he uses a 32t - think I might go the same way. When I've been out lately I've stayed in the middle ring of my triple to see if the gearing is okay, and I can spin up nearly all the hills fine. The only time I spin out would be downhill on the road, but thats not a problem in a race! Cheers!

njee20

I ran a 36t single with 11-36 10 speed cassette. Found it spot on.

Xx1 on the new bike.

Greer_

Yeah 10 speed still gives you 1:1 with those ratios but I'm worried about not having a low enough gear for some of the horrendous climbs over here! Still undecided between 32/34 on the front - I guess I'll need to pick one and decide if its right for me! Defo couldn't manage a 36 with 9 speed!

New bike?! I'm guessing its something very exciting?!

Greer_

I also still race on a 26er - I'm guessing for a 29er a lower gear is needed?

Also just read that the Raceface Narrow/wide chainring doesn't need shorter chainring bolts, anyone know if thats true?

WindyG

Greer_ wrote:

I also still race on a 26er - I'm guessing for a 29er a lower gear is needed?

Also just read that the Raceface Narrow/wide chainring doesn't need shorter chainring bolts, anyone know if thats true?

I guess a lower gear would be needed but not sure.
I needed shorter chainring bolts, you won't need to if you have a bashguard.

njee20

Yep, on a 29er the gearing is roughly 10% harder.

Got a Trek Superfly, will start a thread shortly. Should be good. 19.5lbs I reckon.

Greer_

No I won't be using a bashgaurd - would like more clearance! Thanks, think I'll go 32 then and see how I get on (and short bolts). Will get a Superstar chain device if I need it!

Nice 8)

njee20

The Superstar ones aren't great, I resisted for ages then bought an E13 one, was days and nights better!

Greer_

As with a lot of things, I would if I had the budget! Haha I'll see how I get on without one, but thanks for the help!

WindyG

The only negative thing I have found is that the chainring is noisy when it gets muddy but I have started using squirt instead of my usual chain lube and it is much better now and soon clears.

rockmonkeysc

njee20 wrote:

The Superstar ones aren't great, I resisted for ages then bought an E13 one, was days and nights better!

I also went from a Superstar guide to an E13 XCX and as you say it's a lot better and worth the extra cost.

pilch

njee20 wrote:

I ran a 36t single with 11-36 10 speed cassette. Found it spot on.

Using an XX1 crank, found myself switching between 30/32t depending on the course.... wished I'd put the 28 on for Hopton, but I am an old git

1 x 11 for me this season too....

Greer_

Cheers, could be a case of one chainring for training/flat courses, then a smaller chainring for hilly races. Will see how I get on - gonna get it ordered/fitted for when I finish my uni exams ... need something to get me through it! I'll be doing a spring league in February that my club runs, its not hilly, but it'll be a good test for it anyways before the proper races start.

And Rockmonkey ... looking at reviews, you and njee may be right! Does it rub at all against the chain?

lawman

My XCR is utter crap, the backplate is made of cheese and bends very easily, the guide is rubbish, noisy and it rubs the chain constantly no matter what I do with it. Haven't lost the chain yet, but I think the Zee mech is the main reason for that. I'll be getting a narrow/wide chainring soon. The E-13 XCX is a million times better, use one on my Mojo with a Works Components narrow/wide and it's pretty much silent, double the price of the superstar guide but in a different league in terms of performance and quality

Greer_

lawman wrote:

My XCR is utter crap, the backplate is made of cheese and bends very easily, the guide is rubbish, noisy and it rubs the chain constantly no matter what I do with it. Haven't lost the chain yet, but I think the Zee mech is the main reason for that. I'll be getting a narrow/wide chainring soon. The E-13 XCX is a million times better, use one on my Mojo with a Works Components narrow/wide and it's pretty much silent, double the price of the superstar guide but in a different league in terms of performance and quality

Cheers, is there a difference between the race face and works chainring? I'm just going with raceface because I like the look of them! Would quite like to get away without using a chain guide, but its cheaper to get an E-13 than convert to 10 speed!

lawman

Greer_ wrote:

lawman wrote:

My XCR is utter crap, the backplate is made of cheese and bends very easily, the guide is rubbish, noisy and it rubs the chain constantly no matter what I do with it. Haven't lost the chain yet, but I think the Zee mech is the main reason for that. I'll be getting a narrow/wide chainring soon. The E-13 XCX is a million times better, use one on my Mojo with a Works Components narrow/wide and it's pretty much silent, double the price of the superstar guide but in a different league in terms of performance and quality

Cheers, is there a difference between the race face and works chainring? I'm just going with raceface because I like the look of them! Would quite like to get away without using a chain guide, but its cheaper to get an E-13 than convert to 10 speed!

The works one is cheaper, perhaps not as flash but does the job perfectly and they're made in the UK if that bothers you. I used a 33t normal e-13 chainring with a normal mech and the XCX and didn't lose the chain, so the chainguide works but I've also heard good things about narrow/wide rings with non-clutch mechs as well. A conversion to 10 speed is not mega bucks though, you could do it for around £100, zee shifter, slx shadow plus, cassette and chain and a works chainring would work out around that much, plus you could get a 11-36t cassette as well, so a small boost to the range of the cassette. Personally I'd do that rather than buy just a chainguide and stick with what you have.

Greer_

Might be worth a look once I get a job over the summer - I would like a 36t on the back! Here's hoping I get away with a non-clutch mech for now! It's a Sram XO, but the spring feels mega strong compared to the X9 I had before. I still think I'd be more inclined to go type-2 than clutch, I love how 'fit and forget' Sram is, it just works (mind you I've never used shimano on the mtb, only the road bike), though a replacement shimano mech would be a lot cheaper! Will give it a better think if I decide I'm going to go down that road!

lawman

Greer_ wrote:

Might be worth a look once I get a job over the summer - I would like a 36t on the back! Here's hoping I get away with a non-clutch mech for now! It's a Sram XO, but the spring feels mega strong compared to the X9 I had before. I still think I'd be more inclined to go type-2 than clutch, I love how 'fit and forget' Sram is, it just works (mind you I've never used shimano on the mtb, only the road bike), though a replacement shimano mech would be a lot cheaper! Will give it a better think if I decide I'm going to go down that road!

The Sram 10 speed stuff is often far from fit and forget! Seen many a mech and shifter fall apart after a year or so, the shimano stuff lasts far better and imo the shifting quality is better too and Shimano stuff is damn cheap as well these days

Greer_

Damn haha, you're definitely right about the price though, Shimano is far cheaper!

The Rookie

1x is a good weight saving for it's cost, I use twin guide rings to locate the chain, maybe not the lightest but good security of retention in both directions for 119g. Most upper elements will weigh circa 40-70g and you may decide you want a lower as well (though probably not needed with a thick/thin ring), I wanted a bash regardless so twin guide rings was the lightest option.

Greer_

I'd rather have a chain guide than a bash, very rarely hit the big ring of anything so the middle ring should be fine! Although I never would've thought of a chain guide as xc-ish before!

The Rookie

As XCish a chain guide as you'll get!
http://heliumcomponents.com/index.php?p ... hain-Guide

Greer_

It might be light, but it looks terrible! The E-13 one is only 56g anyways!

The Rookie

Yeah it looks horrid! but 56g is 32g heavier.......mind you the Helium makes the E13 look value for money!

The Superstar one works quite well by all accounts as long as you replace the grub screw, and that only weighs 40g ish.

gt-arrowhead

The grub screw on the superstar chainguide is appalling. I rounded mine very easily. I took my grub screw off for a stainless steel one that is far longer and is alot better. The actual arm of the guide that the grub screw pinches down is really soft. The grub screw has eaten away it quite badly.

Lawman is right about the rubbing too. Had to bodge mine by physically widening the chain by adding some spacers from where it splits. That stops the rubbing. But the chain comes off and onto the axle over very very rough terrain. And somehow it comes off onto the axle, and you cannot getting it back on! Have to undo the guide where it clamps the seat tube and pull it up a bit to get it back on, then put it back to where it was and tighten it back up again.

peter413

I'm using the Narrow/Wide without a clutch mech on my Maxlight and haven't dropped a chain yet. The Superstar guides only make things worse IME. It hardly ever stops the chain dropping off because it's so flexy but because there's a big bit of metal in the way, the chain jams instead of being able to easily lift it back onto the ring. Somehow the N/W is quieter than a normal ring as well and definitely quieter than a ring with a guide.

I'm by no means an XC racer but I use a 32t ring with an 11-36 cassette. I've ran a 34t in the past and that was fine but the 32t gives me that slightly easier gear for when I'm knackered.

Greer_

Good to hear Peter, thanks! Definitely looks like the Superstar guide isn't an option!!

The Rookie

I am in the process of making a chain guide for my commuter using a clamp round DMR mount from CRC and an old E13 guide, will weigh about 50g, once it's done I'll post up, but twin guide rings work well as you get a lower element as well, for about £25 you could do one weighing about 70g (maybe less with more work, same cost) using CF.

njee20

I bodged a Superstar seat tube mounted guide (before they made one) using one of those DMR clamps and a SS cage. Was marginally better than the 'proper' seat tube mounted SS one, but still nowhere near as good as the E.13 XCX ST, which just worked.