Disk Brake Rotor Botls

2

Comments

  • Well in that case I'll defer to your knowledge and carry on as I always have.
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    It's not my knowledge. It's the global collective, bar a few who 'know better'. At the end of the day it's semantics and makes two tenths of sod all difference.
  • poah
    poah Posts: 3,369
    cooldad wrote:
    Because T20 is rather small.

    so is your penis :P
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    New low, even for this thread. **slow clap**
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    In engineering, bolts have a plain sections, screws are fully threaded as Kowalski says, I now hate the rest of you for making me have to agree with something he has said!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    So these are bolts?

    Wood-Screw.jpg
  • WindyG
    WindyG Posts: 1,099
    I have always thought a screw or bolt couldn't be defined because of how they should/could be used.
    I think this sort of makes it a bit clearer:
    http://engineerexplains.com/answr/Screw-vs-Bolt1.html
  • Kowalski675
    Kowalski675 Posts: 4,412
    njee20 wrote:
    So these are bolts?

    Wood-Screw.jpg

    No, those are woodscrews.
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    Hang on... you said the difference between a screw and a bolt was a threaded vs plain shank. That is a screw with a plain shank. So there's more to it than you proffered so confidently...?

    Someone else offered machine screws as the correct definition, but that's not what you said.
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    lol
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    Whatever
  • Kowalski675
    Kowalski675 Posts: 4,412
    njee20 wrote:
    Someone else offered machine screws as the correct definition, but that's not what you said.
    If the shank's fully threaded it's a machine screw

    Obviously, it never occurred to me that anyone would be stupid enough not to know what a woodscrew was...
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    Try not to be a pillock, I know it's hard.

    You pulled someone up in your very first post with an issue of semantics. I'm saying that you were just as wrong. That's all. Of course I know what a bloody woodscrew is, but your original pedantic post didn't specify that.

    Entertaining as this is I truly can't believe it's gone three pages. I'm out. Lol. :roll:
  • Kowalski675
    Kowalski675 Posts: 4,412
    njee20 wrote:
    I'm out. Lol. :roll:

    Should've quit before making such a fool of yourself... :lol:
  • arran77
    arran77 Posts: 9,260
    At the risk of bringing this thread back on track would these steel rotor bolts (or whatever you care to call them) with a Torx head be any good?

    http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=547
    "Arran, you are like the Tony Benn of smut. You have never diluted your depravity and always stand by your beliefs. You have my respect sir and your wife my pity" :lol:

    seanoconn
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    They look fine, anodising of steel is not as robust as they of aluminium, but with care you will keep them looking as you desire.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • lawman
    lawman Posts: 6,868
    Just get a set of Ti bolts and be done with it!

    Or is that Ti screws? :?

    LOL
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    They're a fairly washed out colour if that bothers you, not as intense as aluminium, the red is fairly pink.

    I'd get some Mt Zoom ti ones.
  • gt-arrowhead
    gt-arrowhead Posts: 2,507
    Anodizing Ti is harder apparently, so the most common colours are blue and gold.

    I hate that Ti cannot be anodized red. :( Well they probably can but it would be a very off red. I read an ad for Titanium bolts, and apparently if you wanted to get a set of purple ones you had to be given a separate quote, as the colouring applied in anodizing is inconsistent. I wanted to get some tarty caliper/adapter bolts, but the only red ones i can get are Aluminium ones, and im not sure thats a very good idea! Saying that, my rotor bolts are aluminium and have never had a problem with them.
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    I know folk who've run alu caliper bolts with no ill effects. Not tried it myself.

    You can anodise ti yourself without too much difficulty, there was an interesting thread on WeightWeenies about it years ago, the trouble was making it consistent.
  • gt-arrowhead
    gt-arrowhead Posts: 2,507
    Ive read loads of threads on alu caliper bolts on other forums on stuff (i think i remember seeing you in one on singletrack :P) and the majority of people are saying that they wouldnt use them because of sheering forces and so forth.

    I use 203 and 180 rotors, with hydro brakes, so they do produce a fair bit of bite.
  • Well thank you very much for the response(most of it ;))
  • BigAl
    BigAl Posts: 3,122
    BoltScrewStud.jpg

    And I wouldn't use ally rotor bolts
  • Kowalski675
    Kowalski675 Posts: 4,412
    I read an ad for Titanium bolts, and apparently if you wanted to get a set of purple ones you had to be given a separate quote, as the colouring applied in anodizing is inconsistent.

    It is with ally too. If it's billet ally and you can tell the anodiser the exact grade (and they know their business) then they can give you an accurate prediction of the result. If it's an unknown ally then they can't predict how the colour will take. It's worse if it's cast ally, because the quality of the casting affects the result too. When I had my calipers anodised it was the worst possible combination - cast ally of an unknown composition, that had already been colour anodised previously (re-anodising from coloured to black is usually ok, but black to coloured, or one colour to a different colour is best avoided, as it's very unpredictable), so they had no idea what the end result would be until the parts came out of teh tanks (luckily for me, it was perfect).
  • Kowalski675
    Kowalski675 Posts: 4,412
    njee20 wrote:
    I know folk who've run alu caliper bolts with no ill effects. Not tried it myself.

    Rather them than me - I don't like hospitals. Using ally fasteners in load bearing applications (especially ones exposed to British weather) is an accident waiting to happen. But hey - you might get some cool titanium plates and pins in your broken bones, lol... :wink:

    And I've only just noticed that the thread title is actually about botls, not bolts, so we've all been barking up the wrong trees anyway... :lol:
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    I rather agree, hence not having tried it. A friend used to fit them everywhere - stem, seatpost, the lot. Never broke one, but I'd be paranoid.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    If you look at a conventional PM calliper, the leading bolt is under tension, the trailing bolt is mostly in compression, so changing the trailing bolt to ally is probably safe, this does not apply to IS mounts!

    However the calliper is retained by the friction created by the tension in the bolt, the bolt will only be in shear (even on an IS mount) if the bolt isn't torqued up properly.
    BigAl wrote:
    BoltScrewStud.jpg

    And I wouldn't use ally rotor screws
    FTFY
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • gt-arrowhead
    gt-arrowhead Posts: 2,507
    The reasons you guys mentioned are the reasons why i havent done it. I could do my whole bike for like a fiver. But obviously i dont wanna die.

    Kowalski, i already have enough Titanium in my braces. 8) Its a Titanium nickel compound. Very smart material.
  • gt-arrowhead
    gt-arrowhead Posts: 2,507
    I just did an eBay search for "rotor screws". All the ads say "rotor bolts / screws"
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Because in common parlance they are bolts, that doesn't mean it's right, many people call a Dyson a 'hoover' when it's a vacuum cleaner after all!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.