Disk Brake Rotor Botls
Comments
-
Well in that case I'll defer to your knowledge and carry on as I always have.0
-
It's not my knowledge. It's the global collective, bar a few who 'know better'. At the end of the day it's semantics and makes two tenths of sod all difference.0
-
cooldad wrote:Because T20 is rather small.
so is your penis :P0 -
New low, even for this thread. **slow clap**0
-
In engineering, bolts have a plain sections, screws are fully threaded as Kowalski says, I now hate the rest of you for making me have to agree with something he has said!Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
-
So these are bolts?
0 -
I have always thought a screw or bolt couldn't be defined because of how they should/could be used.
I think this sort of makes it a bit clearer:
http://engineerexplains.com/answr/Screw-vs-Bolt1.html0 -
njee20 wrote:So these are bolts?
No, those are woodscrews.0 -
Hang on... you said the difference between a screw and a bolt was a threaded vs plain shank. That is a screw with a plain shank. So there's more to it than you proffered so confidently...?
Someone else offered machine screws as the correct definition, but that's not what you said.0 -
lol0
-
Whatever0
-
njee20 wrote:Someone else offered machine screws as the correct definition, but that's not what you said.Me, many posts ago wrote:If the shank's fully threaded it's a machine screw
Obviously, it never occurred to me that anyone would be stupid enough not to know what a woodscrew was...0 -
Try not to be a pillock, I know it's hard.
You pulled someone up in your very first post with an issue of semantics. I'm saying that you were just as wrong. That's all. Of course I know what a bloody woodscrew is, but your original pedantic post didn't specify that.
Entertaining as this is I truly can't believe it's gone three pages. I'm out. Lol. :roll:0 -
njee20 wrote:I'm out. Lol. :roll:
Should've quit before making such a fool of yourself...0 -
At the risk of bringing this thread back on track would these steel rotor bolts (or whatever you care to call them) with a Torx head be any good?
http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=547"Arran, you are like the Tony Benn of smut. You have never diluted your depravity and always stand by your beliefs. You have my respect sir and your wife my pity"
seanoconn0 -
They look fine, anodising of steel is not as robust as they of aluminium, but with care you will keep them looking as you desire.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
-
Just get a set of Ti bolts and be done with it!
Or is that Ti screws? :?
LOL0 -
They're a fairly washed out colour if that bothers you, not as intense as aluminium, the red is fairly pink.
I'd get some Mt Zoom ti ones.0 -
Anodizing Ti is harder apparently, so the most common colours are blue and gold.
I hate that Ti cannot be anodized red. Well they probably can but it would be a very off red. I read an ad for Titanium bolts, and apparently if you wanted to get a set of purple ones you had to be given a separate quote, as the colouring applied in anodizing is inconsistent. I wanted to get some tarty caliper/adapter bolts, but the only red ones i can get are Aluminium ones, and im not sure thats a very good idea! Saying that, my rotor bolts are aluminium and have never had a problem with them.0 -
I know folk who've run alu caliper bolts with no ill effects. Not tried it myself.
You can anodise ti yourself without too much difficulty, there was an interesting thread on WeightWeenies about it years ago, the trouble was making it consistent.0 -
Ive read loads of threads on alu caliper bolts on other forums on stuff (i think i remember seeing you in one on singletrack :P) and the majority of people are saying that they wouldnt use them because of sheering forces and so forth.
I use 203 and 180 rotors, with hydro brakes, so they do produce a fair bit of bite.0 -
Well thank you very much for the response(most of it )0
-
-
GT-Arrowhead wrote:I read an ad for Titanium bolts, and apparently if you wanted to get a set of purple ones you had to be given a separate quote, as the colouring applied in anodizing is inconsistent.
It is with ally too. If it's billet ally and you can tell the anodiser the exact grade (and they know their business) then they can give you an accurate prediction of the result. If it's an unknown ally then they can't predict how the colour will take. It's worse if it's cast ally, because the quality of the casting affects the result too. When I had my calipers anodised it was the worst possible combination - cast ally of an unknown composition, that had already been colour anodised previously (re-anodising from coloured to black is usually ok, but black to coloured, or one colour to a different colour is best avoided, as it's very unpredictable), so they had no idea what the end result would be until the parts came out of teh tanks (luckily for me, it was perfect).0 -
njee20 wrote:I know folk who've run alu caliper bolts with no ill effects. Not tried it myself.
Rather them than me - I don't like hospitals. Using ally fasteners in load bearing applications (especially ones exposed to British weather) is an accident waiting to happen. But hey - you might get some cool titanium plates and pins in your broken bones, lol...
And I've only just noticed that the thread title is actually about botls, not bolts, so we've all been barking up the wrong trees anyway...0 -
I rather agree, hence not having tried it. A friend used to fit them everywhere - stem, seatpost, the lot. Never broke one, but I'd be paranoid.0
-
If you look at a conventional PM calliper, the leading bolt is under tension, the trailing bolt is mostly in compression, so changing the trailing bolt to ally is probably safe, this does not apply to IS mounts!
However the calliper is retained by the friction created by the tension in the bolt, the bolt will only be in shear (even on an IS mount) if the bolt isn't torqued up properly.BigAl wrote:
And I wouldn't use ally rotor screwsCurrently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
The reasons you guys mentioned are the reasons why i havent done it. I could do my whole bike for like a fiver. But obviously i dont wanna die.
Kowalski, i already have enough Titanium in my braces. 8) Its a Titanium nickel compound. Very smart material.0 -
I just did an eBay search for "rotor screws". All the ads say "rotor bolts / screws"0
-
Because in common parlance they are bolts, that doesn't mean it's right, many people call a Dyson a 'hoover' when it's a vacuum cleaner after all!Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0