MTB cassette for a roadie.

littledove44
littledove44 Posts: 871
edited December 2013 in MTB buying advice
Nice new wheels arrive today, so I need a new cassette to go on them.

I want to stick with 11/34 as I am quite happy with that range for the riding I do on my roadie.

I have been using an entry level Shimano CS HG62-10, but I thought the new wheels probably deserve the best. The bike only has Tiagra, but I was hoping to upgrade stuff as and when required.

Any recommendations? Seems like this size is really designated for MTB's.

Don't really care about the price.
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Comments

  • RevellRider
    RevellRider Posts: 1,794
    Will your road bike handle the 11-34 range? I thought that road bike mechs had a maximum tooth capacity of 30t
  • Will your road bike handle the 11-34 range? I thought that road bike mechs had a maximum tooth capacity of 30t

    Well, my lBS called shimano and they said no.

    Despite this they fitted me a 11/34 shimano. It works fine. Just a little worn and therefore I plan to leave it on my existing wheel to use on my turbo. On my new road wheels I want something cool mad expensive to make me go faster. :P
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    An 11-34 block isn't the sort of thing folk use for going faster ;-)

    The newer groupsets will handle wider cassettes (designed up to 32t), alternatively you can fit a 9 speed MTB rear mech (irrespective of whether you're running 9 or 10 speed).
  • njee20 wrote:
    An 11-34 block isn't the sort of thing folk use for going faster ;-)

    The newer groupsets will handle wider cassettes (designed up to 32t), alternatively you can fit a 9 speed MTB rear mech (irrespective of whether you're running 9 or 10 speed).

    True. The thing is though I currently successfully run an 11-34. I just want a better one. :D

    Faster uphill is still faster!
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I doubt you are running a gear lower than the the lowest gear on your road bike by using the MTB cassette, sounds more like you have an issue of knowing how to use your gears really.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • The Rookie wrote:
    I doubt you are running a gear lower than the the lowest gear on your road bike by using the MTB cassette, sounds more like you have an issue of knowing how to use your gears really.
    Not sure what you mean.

    I have 50, 34 on the front and 11-34 on the rear, so my lowest ratio is 1.

    I intend to keep it that way. I just wanted a recommendation on which model cassette to buy.
    Can't see how that is anything to do with "how" I use my gears.

    Perhaps my question was bad.

    This is a new cassette for to go on new wheels for my road bike.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Do you currently drop onto the inner ring and largest sprocket at the back and struggle is the question, if so the MTB cassette is worthwhile, if not, then it's not, many buying advice threads appear simple but often end up showing that the advice the OP was seeking wasn't what they actually needed.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    Fitting a wider ratio cassette will make you slower up hills. Fit a close ratio road cassette and attack the climbs in the taller gears.
  • Fitting a wider ratio cassette will make you slower up hills. Fit a close ratio road cassette and attack the climbs in the taller gears.

    Enough already!!!!!

    I am not fitting a wider anything.
    I am fitting the exact same ratios as I have now.

    It's a new wheel
    Fitting the same configuration cassette.

    I just wanted advice on which make.
    Clearly that was a silly expectation.
  • Ouija
    Ouija Posts: 1,386
    Fitting a wider ratio cassette will make you slower up hills. Fit a close ratio road cassette and attack the climbs in the taller gears.

    I'd agree with that. I removed the 11-32 cassette of my mountain bike and replaced it with a 11-28, simply because the closer gearing makes it possible to find just the right ratio to spin up most hills. With the wider spread 11-32 and 11-34 on my other bikes you tend to find that if the gear your in is just a little too stiff for the incline the next one up is usually too light and so you end up shifting back and climbing out of the saddle instead. I even bumped up my granny ring from 22 to 26 as i just never got anywhere near the 22x32 combo on my mountain bike despite being the heaviest bike i have.
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    Best is SRAM XX, but they're only available in 11-32 or 11-36. If it must be 34 then Shimano XTR.
  • njee20 wrote:
    Best is SRAM XX, but they're only available in 11-32 or 11-36. If it must be 34 then Shimano XTR.
    Many thanks. XTR it is then.
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    Although frankly it's completely wasted on a Tiagra groupset. XT is 1/3 the price and only marginally heavier, I'd get that and spend the money upgrading other parts if you want.
  • omegas
    omegas Posts: 970
    I have been using an entry level Shimano CS HG62-10,

    For price, durability and weight you have the best value cassette already.
  • omegas wrote:
    I have been using an entry level Shimano CS HG62-10,

    For price, durability and weight you have the best value cassette already.
    Really?

    How come it's only lasted 900 miles then?
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    XTR will last less - ti sprockets are softer. You're doing something massively wrong to wear out a cassette on the road in 900 miles. That's a month of riding for many riders.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Agreed, to wear out a cassette in 900 miles means either you were throwing handfuls of sand at it or something else is wrong, what makes you think it is worn out?
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • The Rookie wrote:
    Agreed, to wear out a cassette in 900 miles means either you were throwing handfuls of sand at it or something else is wrong, what makes you think it is worn out?

    Absolutely no sand involved at all I can assure you. Summer riding, and almost never even in the rain.

    It's not that the thing is completely shot. Just a fair amount of wear on some teeth. I am not going to bin it, it will stay on the wheel which will be permanently used on my turbo. The new cassette goes with my new Mavic wheels for road use.

    d424003f3e6bc8307cdf628d324d1baa.jpg
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    That looks perfect still... You realise that a number of the teeth are differently profiled to aid shifting? I can't see any worn teeth at all. If you want a nicer cassette for the new wheels just get XT, if that one was worn you'd need to swap chains every time you use the turbo trainer wheel.
  • Twelly
    Twelly Posts: 1,437
    The Rookie wrote:
    Agreed, to wear out a cassette in 900 miles means either you were throwing handfuls of sand at it or something else is wrong, what makes you think it is worn out?

    Absolutely no sand involved at all I can assure you. Summer riding, and almost never even in the rain.

    It's not that the thing is completely shot. Just a fair amount of wear on some teeth. I am not going to bin it, it will stay on the wheel which will be permanently used on my turbo. The new cassette goes with my new Mavic wheels for road use.

    d424003f3e6bc8307cdf628d324d1baa.jpg

    Looks brand new. If you are going to throw it away, post it to me!
  • Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the whole point of a road cassette is that it is close ratio? MTB cassettes are not
    Bikes are OK, I guess... :-)

    2008 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Comp.
    2013 Trek 1.2
    1982 Holdsworth Elan.
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    Correct, which is why he's saying he wants an MTB cassette for his road bike, rather than a road cassette.
  • So it will harder to ride? Sorry if I'm missing something here :-)
    Bikes are OK, I guess... :-)

    2008 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Comp.
    2013 Trek 1.2
    1982 Holdsworth Elan.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    What will be harder to ride?

    The MTB cassette will give lower gears, so easier uphill.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • mcnultycop
    mcnultycop Posts: 2,143
    Wear on some teeth. Is that not just the ramping to aid shifting?
  • mcnultycop wrote:
    Wear on some teeth. Is that not just the ramping to aid shifting?

    Worn or not, makes no difference to me. That one is going to be used on the turbo.

    A new one will be fitted to the new wheel.
    It's just a case of which make.
  • kajjal
    kajjal Posts: 3,380
    cooldad wrote:
    What will be harder to ride?

    The MTB cassette will give lower gears, so easier uphill.

    This is not uncommon on road bikes for older or more casual riders. Makes prefect sense and like you say is easier to climb hills.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    I know, I have one on mine, being both old and casual.
    Although it does have 52/42 rings, and the original cassette was something stupid like 12/21. Impossible for my old legs.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • Sorry I mean by that not such a close ratio. Bigger jumps between gears. I find if I ride my MTB on road I'm always pedalling too fast or slow and need an inbetween gear. One of the big reasons I bought a road bike. Maybe that's just me :-)
    Bikes are OK, I guess... :-)

    2008 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Comp.
    2013 Trek 1.2
    1982 Holdsworth Elan.