10 x 1 help

Cipollini

I've got a 9 x 3 spd set up, a little out of date now i know. On a budget and wanna go to 10 x 1. looking at the race face narrow and wide chain rings as you don't need a chain guide. But i have read you need a clutch rear mech. How crucial are they? can i just use a normal 10 spd mech as a mate has one kicking about i can have.

stubs

Without a clutch mech you might need a chain guide its a try it thing it works on some frames not on others. Dont forget you will need a 10speed shifter and a 10 speed chain to match the mech.

Got my mate running 1 x 10 on his Giant Anthem with a SLX clutch mech and SLX shifter, SLX 12 x 36 cassette, KMC10 chain, On-One 33 tooth ring, 4x short chainring bolts in go faster Red and a Blackspire Einfach chain guide. Total parts cost came to £135 not bad when he needed new chain, cassette, gear cables and chainrings anyway.

supersonic

I wouldn't say 9x3 is out of date though. If it works ;-)

cooldad

And 9x1 would be a lot cheaper if you want to simplify things on a budget.

Mojo_666

You don't need a clutch rear mech i would get a short cage though, and a chaine guide too, a clutch wasnt enought to keep my chain on so I have both (mainly because the short cage mech I got only came with a clutch)

rockmonkeysc

9x1 works pretty well for me.
Im using a old SLX mech, Renthal 34t ring, e thirteen xcx guide and a xt 11-34t cassette.
10 speed just gives very slightly closer ratios over the same range, no real advantage to it over 9 speed.
Single ring takes a little time to get used to but it will make you faster, sitting and spinning up climbs isn't an option.

WindyG

I think terrain you ride will determine if you need a clutch mech or guide, both my bikes are 1x10 with a Raceface Narrowwide, neither have a clutch mech and only the the HT has a top guide which I raced at Hadleigh Farm with no sign of the chain dropping, I doubt I even needed a guide, for downhill or black runs a guide would be a good idea.

JMcP92

I'm currently in the process of going from 3x10 to 1x10, though I've spent more money on shiny lightness. Though really all you need is the chainring, cassette, clutch, chain and shifter.
I'm running it on an Intense Carbine, which for god knows what reason doesn't have guide mounting points, and so I'm going with a clutch and hoping it works fine. Should have it complete mid this week, shall let you know how it all works out

cubedean

I'm thinking about going 1x9 after the faf I kept having with shifting onto the small ring yesterday, I just want something simple. Realistically how much harder would 32/36 be than the current 24/36?

I've asked in here as this will probably aid the op in his decision to go 10sp or not.

b45her

raceface narrow wide ring and a clutch mech is all you really need.

rockmonkeysc

Not really, clutch mechs are 10 speed only so that means new shifter and cassette as well.

cooldad

cubedean wrote:

I'm thinking about going 1x9 after the faf I kept having with shifting onto the small ring yesterday, I just want something simple. Realistically how much harder would 32/36 be than the current 24/36?

I've asked in here as this will probably aid the op in his decision to go 10sp or not.

A big difference - you can work the ratios out.
But shifting problems are just bad setup and a few minutes to sort out.

Cipollini

Thanks for all your help and responses. I'm mainly a road rider and i'm new to the whole MTB scene. I would say more of xc rider than a DH rider. I do most my riding on the Southdowns way so nothing that technical (and even if it is i'm at walking pace. lol)
Being from the road side of the sport I'm used to being all about the weight so wanted to drop to 10x1 for the weight, losing the shifter, cables, mech and chain rings. Might get a narrow wide chain ring and try it out on the current 9spd cassette, chain and mech i have see how i get on without a chain guide and clutch mech

rockmonkeysc

Shifting problems might not be just a case of adjustment, it could be worn chain, cassette, rings, cables, shifters or all of them.
Single ring is the future though, unless you ride lots of very big hills and don't want to ruin your knees.

Cipollini

Out of interest can anyone point me in the right direction of getting a chain ring. "stubs" mentioned using an on-one. what other brands do them. I thought the race face was the only option.

cubedean

Everything is pretty much new apart from the shifters. The issue is when it drops down the chain gets snagged between the chainring and chainstay (like the cranks need spacing out) but if I space it out the alignment is awful. I guess the only way to know is to try it out.

cooldad

Or adjust the front mech so the chain doesn't come off.

DCR00

i run 1x10 with a RF narrow wide

no need for a chain guide or clutch mech

i run a med cage XT mech and haven't dropped my chain once (even at Antur)

i do run a bash guard tho

cubedean

cooldad wrote:

Or adjust the front mech so the chain doesn't come off.

It doesn't come off. It gets caught.

cooldad

How?

rockmonkeysc

cooldad wrote:

How?

I would guess it's chain suck caused by either incorrect chainline, worn chain or a worn or damaged chain ring.

cubedean

RockmonkeySC wrote:

cooldad wrote:

How?

I would guess it's chain suck caused by either incorrect chainline, worn chain or a worn or damaged chain ring.

This sounds exactly like what it is. I'm guessing as the chain rings are the only used part in the drive train it is this.

felix.london

cubedean wrote:

I'm thinking about going 1x9 after the faf I kept having with shifting onto the small ring

??...you must have a problem with your set up. Should be just as simple as shifting up and down the cassette - simpler really...up/down

JMcP92

My 1x10 is finished, just done it this evening, biggest issue was a press-fit BB, putting in a new one, but I just made my own press and stuck it in, easier than buying one or paying someone else more money to do it.

Anyway, running XX1 crank, SRAM GXP BB, KMC chain, Shimano XT cassette, rear mech and shifter, works great. Cycled it very briefly and feels nice, but couldn't talk about chain falling off, only so much you can do up and down the street.

cubedean

felix.london wrote:

cubedean wrote:

I'm thinking about going 1x9 after the faf I kept having with shifting onto the small ring

??...you must have a problem with your set up. Should be just as simple as shifting up and down the cassette - simpler really...up/down

Chain suck is the only thing I can put it down to.

rockmonkeysc

cubedean wrote:

felix.london wrote:

cubedean wrote:

I'm thinking about going 1x9 after the faf I kept having with shifting onto the small ring

??...you must have a problem with your set up. Should be just as simple as shifting up and down the cassette - simpler really...up/down

Chain suck is the only thing I can put it down to.

Which is caused by poor set up or worn components.

njee20

Not necessarily - some bikes are worse than others. One of the initial drivers for me trying 1x10 was my Top Fuel sucked horrifically when on the inner ring in the mud. Brand new, out of the box, two successive bikes did it just as badly. Meant that in wet conditions you had to stick to the outer ring, which is far from ideal!

cubedean

RockmonkeySC wrote:

cubedean wrote:

felix.london wrote:

cubedean wrote:

I'm thinking about going 1x9 after the faf I kept having with shifting onto the small ring

??...you must have a problem with your set up. Should be just as simple as shifting up and down the cassette - simpler really...up/down

Chain suck is the only thing I can put it down to.

Which is caused by poor set up or worn components.

The cranks/rings were 2nd hand when I bought them but they looked okay.

nicklouse

cubedean wrote:

RockmonkeySC wrote:

cubedean wrote:

felix.london wrote:

cubedean wrote:

I'm thinking about going 1x9 after the faf I kept having with shifting onto the small ring

??...you must have a problem with your set up. Should be just as simple as shifting up and down the cassette - simpler really...up/down

Chain suck is the only thing I can put it down to.

Which is caused by poor set up or worn components.

The cranks/rings were 2nd hand when I bought them but they looked okay.

to you. maybe the seller sold them as they were having issues.

rockmonkeysc

It only takes one slightly bent tooth to cause problems.

JMcP92

I'll be able to give a full review of how 1x10 goes after the 17th. I'm doing an enduro race with my uni and so it'll get put through its paces