2013 ZIpp 303 or 2014 Reynolds assault

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Comments

  • waterford123
    waterford123 Posts: 172
    Colinthecop wrote:
    waterford123 wrote:
    I've 'done this. It's mental, right waste of money.


    Have you got any pics so others can experience it without having to waste money...?

    8)

    No, I lied, I've never even been to Blackpool.

    Sorry if I mislead anyone.
  • kamil1891
    kamil1891 Posts: 658
    itsnotarace wrote:
    Carry on banging your "handbuilt H PLus Son on crappy hubs" drums, and enjoy your 1800 gram wheels. I will continue to enjoy my 1154 gram wheels sans spoke issues while laughing at you.

    And while you laugh at ugo, I will laugh at you. For a bit less than 300 quid, he built me his ''crappy'' H plus son on even ''crappier'' hubs, which came at around 1600g and have survived everything...even UCI 2.2 racing with pro conti teams (crashing there too) on super crappy roads... They are still true as a true thing and I cannot praise them more :-)
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,312
    kamil1891 wrote:
    ...even UCI 2.2 racing with pro conti teams (crashing there too) on super crappy roads... They are still true as a true thing and I cannot praise them more :-)

    Did you really race in 2.2 UCI events? Wow, I'd love to have an account of that for my blog if you happen to keep a diary of your racing!
    left the forum March 2023
  • Mike Cotty
    Mike Cotty Posts: 57
    itsnotarace wrote:
    pearceygy wrote:
    Thanks for the explanation maintaining speed is a factor for me as it can be hard keeping up with some of the lads on fast straights who all happen to have areo type deeper wheels than me.

    I don't know if it's possible but maybe one of your riding group can let you try their wheels to see if it makes a difference prior to making a sizable investment? From my personal experience (racing and group riding) especially when I know I'm with stronger riders than myself I've found clever positioning, keeping tucked out of the wind and limiting my time on the front are all really important points to consider. It'd be a real shame to spend a lot of money and not get the performance benefits you're hoping for.

    Best of luck.

    Mike Cotty
    Mavic Community Manager
  • kamil1891
    kamil1891 Posts: 658
    ugo.santalucia wrote:
    kamil1891 wrote:
    ...even UCI 2.2 racing with pro conti teams (crashing there too) on super crappy roads... They are still true as a true thing and I cannot praise them more :-)

    Did you really race in 2.2 UCI events? Wow, I'd love to have an account of that for my blog if you happen to keep a diary of your racing!

    I was lucky enough to have a place in the squad for that particular race (crit + 3stages - it's the toughest race in Poland apart from World Tour's Tour de Pologne), but I also raced many other elite races/nationals, sometimes on your wheels. As I expected the roads to be crap I took your wheels rather than carbon ones (my teammate for example ''broke in half'' both on his carbon wheels on one massive pothole). The wheels are strong enough for any racing and honestly, even on that level it's mostly down to the fitness not to the wheels. All you need is reliability ;-)

    As you can see, my BMC fitted with your wheels, before the 1st stage: 2a5x7o9.jpg
  • Velonutter
    Velonutter Posts: 2,437
    Hmm, I held off with my views but here goes: -

    I ride a combination of Campagnolo Factory wheels and wheels that I have built for my self.

    I dabbled with Zipp 303's firecrests and thought the rims superb, but the build quality of the spoking and the hubs a pile of pooh, I can't comment on the Reynolds, but hear good and bad, more bad than good from my club mates.

    If I ever buy another set of factory wheels then it will be possibly some of the new Campag that are still under development, or Enve's with Tune or CK hubs. But I was well impressed with the new range of wheels that Deda have launched as well.

    For the Campag/Fulcrums range I own or have owned, Shamals, Neutrons both Ultra and Standard, Eurus, and Bora's, my family ride Zonda's, Scirocos, Fulcrum 3's, 5's and 7's in all of the tens of 1000's of miles I have never had to straighten, repair or rebuild the wheels, a couple of the older ones have had new bearings, but that is it.

    I have and still ride with Chinese 50mm rims with Novatec hubs both clincher and tubs, on my track bike I ride Campag LF hubs with a variety or rims and finally I have just built a set of Archetype H Plus rims with Sokin hubs.

    So I think I'm fairly well qualified to have an opinion on a large number of wheels.

    I'm not light averaging between 89 & 95Kg's, I'm quite powerful so really do stress wheels.

    Apart from a problem I had with straight pull spokes (Needed lock tightening) I have not broken a spoke or bent a rim, the only instance I have had of broken spokes was some 5 years ago when I bought a set of 2nd hand built wheels and they really weren't built well, but after being re-tensioned are still being ridden by a mate without a problem.

    In conclusion if your wheels are built well enough with quality components then the only reason you could have a problem is because you have cut corners or not had them built correctly. With factory wheels go with their reputation for quality not just their looks.

    As for people on here giving professional opinion, I welcome it or how else would you get free advice, all forums need professional educated input, I only wish there were more on here that could give such excellent advice.

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