cheap Chinese lights?

A guy I know bought a set of these off Ebay. 3800 lumens for £25! He's an off road biker so needs that power but would that power be too much for the road? There must be a catch as branded lights seem to cost a fortune in comparison.
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The fact it has a battery pack and charger so I'm not having to buy them is a massive bonus.
Anyway, 1600lm I think is more than good enough. Although my beam is quite focused. I saw some guys bought a different lens to disperse the light to be more useful. I think the only catch is the lifespan of these things.
I've got for almost 2 years now without much issues, only problem for me is the mounting & the battery seem to be draining off itself even though it's unplugged and unused. Better make sure its fully charged before using.
Branded lights are better quality and more reliable.
Build quality is spot on and it came with UK charger, carrry pouch, battery, extension cable, bar mount/o-rings and helmet mount. I've yet to use all the batteries charge. I rode in to work this morning on largely unlit, rural roads and even on the middle setting (there's 3 levels of output, plus a flashing mode) there was enough light to ride at normal speed and I wasn't straining to see. My ride in today took just over 2 hours and there was no loss in the lights output during that time, though I did switch to the lowest mode once the sun was coming up.
If you are based in Cambridge, as per your username then feel free to pop by my office and take a look. I'm just off Cowley Road, PM if you want.
HTH
Advertised as 1800 Lumens, but is actually less than 1200. Also as there is no beam focus, some lumens are wasted, so you can't compare lights on their advertised capability.
I use this as a high powered light, I leave it on full beam all the time, pointed downwards most of the time, but raise it for unlit country lanes. I also keep a bar mounted torch in case it fails.
Good capacity lasts for 4 -5 hours on full beam, with similar recharge time.
Ultrafire (cheap amazon torch with bar mount) on full power:
Jordan, thanks, I might take you up on that offer.
I generally use my Nanoshot plus on 1/2 power - only going up to full power for some particularly crappy lanes.
The Nanoshot plus is £80 from Hargroves atm.
The cheap chinese lights can be good - but if you want to KNOW it's good then (IMHO) that's when you need a branded light.
No worries. I also have a Led Lenser P7 at work at the mo, that ouputs a claimed 200 lumens so you can compare the two if you get chance.
That's a very good point, all in one good quality waterproof lights are more convenient than having battery packs etc.
I'm back to my original 900 lumen cree thing with battery pack. Over the years it's had new batteries (Tried 6 AAs, now on 2 x 18650s + 1 x playdoh pot for waterproofing) new cabling though-out and a replacement handlebar mount.
As for the Cree torches themselves I think they're great and have no reliability problems with them even in torrential rain.
Specialized Roubaix SL3 Expert 2012, Cannondale CAAD5,
Marin Mount Vision (1997), Edinburgh Country tourer, 3 cats!
I've been using one of the cheapy torch style chinese ebay lights for about 18 months now - daily commutes come rain or shine and it stays on the bike full time between october and whenever the days get long enough not to need it in spring. It's seen its fair share of rain/hail/snow and is still going strong.
If it does fail I have another as a spare because they were 2 for £12 or something ridiculous like that.
Hard for me to justify spending £100 on a light when similar performance can be had for under a tenth of that price.
Perhaps if I were using it to ride remote off road trails then the possible reliability issues would count for more but as it's only used to light up a few dark patches across the park etc and I have a back up 'be seen' light to get me home in a pinch, I think the £6 light will suffice.
I do a lot of that, you always need more than one light source for safety so may as well be two Crees (I run a Maglite head torch too). Once I was stranded when my single P7 torch ran out of battery on a moonless night miles into the woods. I had a very dim LED head torch and it took me ages to get home. I think very few folk know what "dark" really is until they've come face to face with it.
Specialized Roubaix SL3 Expert 2012, Cannondale CAAD5,
Marin Mount Vision (1997), Edinburgh Country tourer, 3 cats!
As above - wrap the cell in electrical tape to make it fit more snugly. If you are using unprotected cells they are shorter than protected cells and may need to be spaced to avoid momentary loss of contact which is what switches modes... this is an issue with the 501b torches. I use a couple of rare-earth magnets on the -ve end of my cells, especially if bar mounting lights, as a mode change while hitting a tech section is not a fun experience. Not had any problems since.
Giant Anthem X4 (2010) GT Avalanche 1.0 (2010)
Kingley Vale and QECP Trail Collective - QECP Trail Building
This really helps reduce vibration, I do it myself. If the battery is hard to remove afterwards gently flick the torch (but not in the direction of your best ornaments!).
Specialized Roubaix SL3 Expert 2012, Cannondale CAAD5,
Marin Mount Vision (1997), Edinburgh Country tourer, 3 cats!
Ignore claimed 'Chinese' lumens as they are fiction... if you are interested you can see the theoretical max lumens at different amps here. My "1800 lumen" XML-U3 draws 2.5 amps full power so is max 800 or so lumens, but that is still VERY bright.
As a guide I find that running both of these on MEDIUM power is enough light for riding technical trails at night, and will give 2.5+ hours on one cell. If you grease the threads the lights will stay waterproof and they are very reliable if you check the assembly (e.g. make sure everything is done up properly).
But I'm not sure that these are necessarily the best lights for commuting.
On LOW power they are fine, but that's not enough for a dark road at speed, so what to do if a car comes? Well changing modes is done by cycling through the modes so you may end up blinding a driver with the super-bright fast strobe followed my bright SOS mode, and on HIGH they are ludicrously bright with a very unfriendly beam pattern for oncoming cars. I usually switch my head torch to LOW and keep my bar light on MEDIUM... and if a car comes I dip my bar light by tipping it to point at the ground in front of me.
Giant Anthem X4 (2010) GT Avalanche 1.0 (2010)
Kingley Vale and QECP Trail Collective - QECP Trail Building
viewforum.php?f=20005
Just make sure you get mounts that fit road bars and decent 18650 batteries (that said the two Ultrafires I got with my first torch - viewtopic.php?f=20005&t=12660193 - are actually fine).
Worth noting that you shouldn't leave a Lithium Ion battery fully charged as it stresses the battery and reduces the lifespan. Leave it half charged and only charge it before your going to use it.
Also worth noting that many of these Li-Ion batteries or packs have protection circuits built into them (due to their sensitivity) which constantly draws a current from the battery, hence the reason the battery appears to go flat when stored over time (and you should never let a Li-Ion battery go flat as it may refuse to charge again).
Used through all winter no problems. Probably £500 worth of branded lights bought for £50.
Specialized Roubaix SL3 Expert 2012, Cannondale CAAD5,
Marin Mount Vision (1997), Edinburgh Country tourer, 3 cats!