integrated headset Help & advise please

winter_zombie

Hi all

im in need of your help and advise on what to do and what will fit !
i am in no way a experienced mechanic simply because ive not had any real problems untill now

ive had my boardman ht pro for about a year and its been great, but ive now got a problem with the headset.
no matter what i do i still have a very small amount of movement in the top bearings area and a tiny knocking sound
so after watching this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E7CQPeLzIq8 i did the same thing but still no joy

so today i phoned halfords were the bike was from and asked for advise about my headset, but all he said was "we dont stock that bike model any more" and advised me to go to B&Q and try to match up what i have !!! LoL

my headset is a integrated FSA ORBIT but i dont know what model, it has a 1 1/8 top and a 1.5 bottom bearing
when i did take out my headset the top sealed bearing had no information on them but the bottom one did.
it says TH INDUSTRIES 1.5 ACB 36 X 45 073#

and now im stuck, i realy dont know anything else about headsets or what to do, im finding it mind boggling with most of the jargon "Stack Height" "Upper/Lower stack" "36x45" "45x45" it just go's on and on. i just want to know what bearings will fit or what headset i can buy that will fit

i like the look and price of the Cane Creek 40 series headsets simply because they look smart and its in my budget

thank you for your time and i am open to your advise

(everything in the picture below is what my headset consists) apart from the crown race

cooldad

Bearings don't look too bad - have you tried adjusting it?
FSA website has tech info, and use Parktools for how to, not random Youtube videos. You need to know the ID of the headtube top and bottom.

paulmon

This is your lucky day. I have a Boardman with the very same headset and I too have had a load of problems. I have tried a number of different bearings without a great deal of success. I was sold a nuke proof headset by a LBS which didn't fit properly so I took it back and continued my search. I looked at the hope pick and mix but no one could give me the correct parts. My most recent attempt is with the superstar integrated headset. Whilst the bearings fit they are very snug inside the frame. The cap that sits on top of the top bearing is flat instead of raised like the fsa so I needed to add a couple of additional spacers on the steerer and then there wasn't enough space between the top of the steerer and the stem so I needed to cut the steerer.

I convinced there is something about the tapered fitting on the Boardman frame that causes all these problems with other manufacturers headsets.

After buying the superstar headset I found one at Planet X which is as close to the boardman one that I have seen.
http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/HSF ... ed_headset

Good luck
Paul

winter_zombie

cooldad wrote:

Bearings don't look too bad - have you tried adjusting it?
FSA website has tech info, and use Parktools for how too, not random Youtube videos. You need to know the ID of the headtube top and bottom.

can you please explain what you mean by "ID of the headtube"

i have tried twice taking it apart and re-installing it incase i had done something wrong but nothing has changed.

coulddobetter

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/fsa- ... -prod84328]If you want new it is this.

Also available from halfords . With the right specification any shop will supply . I have carbon version of bike and apart from a few carbon spacers and top cap the specs are identical .

winter_zombie

PaulMon wrote:

This is your lucky day. I have a Boardman with the very same headset and I too have had a load of problems. I have tried a number of different bearings without a great deal of success. I was sold a nuke proof headset by a LBS which didn't fit properly so I took it back and continued my search. I looked at the hope pick and mix but no one could give me the correct parts. My most recent attempt is with the superstar integrated headset. Whilst the bearings fit they are very snug inside the frame. The cap that sits on top of the top bearing is flat instead of raised like the fsa so I needed to add a couple of additional spacers on the stem and then there wasn't enough space between the top of the steerer and the stem so I needed to cut the steerer.

I convinced there is something about the tapered fitting on the Boardman frame that causes all these problems with other manufacturers headsets.

After buying the superstar headset I found one at Planet X which is as close to the boardman one that I have seen.
http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/HSF ... ed_headset

Good luck
Paul

thanks for the reply paul, by the sounds of it im in the sh*t. i only have one local bike shop but i dont have much faith in the shop because of poor experience's so i have to buy it on line and as you probably know its a right pain sending things back and waiting for a refund.

i will see what other advise i get in the next few days but i may have to try the one you advised.

thank you friend for your help

winter_zombie

coulddobetter wrote:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/fsa-orbit-c-40-tapered-integrated-headset/rp-prod84328]If you want new it is this.

Also available from halfords . With the right specification any shop will supply . I have carbon version of bike and apart from a few carbon spacers and top cap the specs are identical .

thanks for the link, their is a 9mm top cap and a 15mm top cap option what do i need ??? sorry im a noob :oops:

coulddobetter

The top cap is the bit that sits at the top of the stem above the bars . Just measure the diameter ( has the 5mm allen bolt in the centre .

winter_zombie

just out of interest is their any other option for a different or better make. like i said before i did like the look of the Cane Creek 40 series. whats your views on that ??

cooldad

FSA Orbits are excellent headsets, and yours looks almost mint. I don't think that's your problem.
I just replaced one after more than three years and two bikes. When I took it out to check it the entire bottom bearing disintegrated. While I was waiting for a new one I kind of put all the bits together, packed it with grease, and it still worked fine for a few weeks. Bit gritty but no play.
I still think proper adjustment will sort it.

coulddobetter

Have to agree with cooldad . Before spending I would reassemble. If there is a degree of play / knocking it's highly likely the top cap is not tight enough thus allowing a degree of play in the bearings .
Really dead bearings are often crumbling and covered in rust .

Put it back in , keep the stem loose and tighten the top cap . This compresses everything up to the fork basically . As long as the bars turn freely you have not overtightened. Last thing is to straighten bars and tighten stem bolts .

winter_zombie

coulddobetter wrote:

Have to agree with cooldad . Before spending I would reassemble. If there is a degree of play / knocking it's highly likely the top cap is not tight enough thus allowing a degree of play in the bearings .
Really dead bearings are often crumbling and covered in rust .

Put it back in , keep the stem loose and tighten the top cap . This compresses everything up to the fork basically . As long as the bars turn freely you have not overtightened. Last thing is to straighten bars and tighten stem bolts .

well i will give that another try and see how it go's

i asked about other makes because from what i have seen on the net other brands like chris king,hope show up all the time with just the spare parts. so with all the issues ive had so far and others by the sounds of it would i be better going for a brand that sells the spares. if you get what i mean

cooldad

My entire Orbit headset cost less than a Hope bearing.

cooldad

Make sure you are doing it right, and there is a gap between the steerer tube and top of the stem.

coulddobetter

I do understand yes and sympathise . However most bearings are standard so it is perfectly acceptable to find the right size and just replace them . I am still learning but recently fully stripped my suspension fork and serviced it . It isn't rocket science . One important bit of advice , when pulling things apart photograph them or be sure you lay things out methodically .it would be easy to reinstall bits the wrong the way round relying on memory .

FSA are well respected and make good stuff . In many ways a headset is a headset unless you want something ultra light weight and shiny .

You could potentially spend around £ 50.00 on something you don't need .

Final thought have you got a biking mate who could take a look ?
http://m.pinkbike.com/news/tech-tuesday ... -2010.html a simple guide .

winter_zombie

coulddobetter wrote:

I do understand yes and sympathise . However most bearings are standard so it is perfectly acceptable to find the right size and just replace them . I am still learning but recently fully stripped my suspension fork and serviced it . It isn't rocket science . One important bit of advice , when pulling things apart photograph them or be sure you lay things out methodically .it would be easy to reinstall bits the wrong the way round relying on memory .

FSA are well respected and make good stuff . In many ways a headset is a headset unless you want something ultra light weight and shiny .

You could potentially spend around £ 50.00 on something you don't need .

Final thought have you got a biking mate who could take a look ?

i dont have any biking mates as i ride alone, and i dont know anybody else who is into it. their is a local bike club thats run from my local bike store but it only does club rides early morning on the weekend or night a rides mid week & thats no good for me been a single parent. im only able to ride while my little one is at school mid afternoon in the week.

but il have another go with the bike tomorrow and if its still not right i may take a axe to it LoL :P

coulddobetter

Tempting sometimes. Just to let you into a secret I merrily cycled off having put the fork back on mine . First turn I came tothe bars swivelled and the wheel did nothing as I forgot to tighten the stem . Lucky I was crawling along .

winter_zombie

coulddobetter wrote:

Tempting sometimes. Just to let you into a secret I merrily cycled off having put the fork back on mine . First turn I came tothe bars swivelled and the wheel did nothing as I forgot to tighten the stem . Lucky I was crawling along .

ROFL :P

Kowalski675

coulddobetter wrote:

Tempting sometimes. Just to let you into a secret I merrily cycled off having put the fork back on mine . First turn I came tothe bars swivelled and the wheel did nothing as I forgot to tighten the stem . Lucky I was crawling along .

Whoops

Winter Zombie, I've just replied to your PM, sorry for the delay.

bladeone

That looks almost same setup as my cube reaction gtc got my bearings from the link below they were very helpful and sell bearings individual if it is bearings you need, but as said they look good
http://www.ukbikestore.co.uk/product/14 ... aring.html

cooldad

That's the bottom, but not the top.

bladeone

Here is the top I used
http://www.ukbikestore.co.uk/product/14 ... o-acb.html

cooldad

Which may or may not be the right one.

winter_zombie

well as a update i have today yet again taken it all apart and used a full can of degreaser to make sure it was 100% clean.

i then waited untill it dried off and used weldtite TF2 lithium grease on all the bearings, i also used a small amount on the upper and lower frame cups were the sealed bearing sit.

i rebuilt it all back up, first tightening up the top cap so untill the handle bars wouldn't turn on their own but them slacking it back off untill they just could, then as normal aligning the handle bars and forks before tightening the stem bolt. after putting the front wheel back on and and pressing the front break i still have this strange knocking sound. the only options i have now is to pay way over the odds and take it somewhere or as i have my local bike club/shop on facebook and may ask if i can put a shout out asking for help and see if somebody will meet me at the shop. i haven't been on my bike in 3+ weeks and im BOARD :arrow: :evil: even my xbox is doing my head in LoL

What do you guys think ?????????

cooldad

That it's coming from somewhere else.

Kowalski675

cyd190468 wrote:

It could just be the pads moving back and forth in the calliper.

That's what I suggested in my PM - are you 100% sure it's not brake pad movement?

Kowalski675

cooldad wrote:

Which may or may not be the right one.

It's not. The OE top bearing is 42mm x 30.5mm x 8mm, with bevels inner and outer.

nicklouse

winter zombie wrote:

well as a update i have today yet again taken it all apart and used a full can of degreaser to make sure it was 100% clean.

i then waited untill it dried off and used weldtite TF2 lithium grease on all the bearings, i also used a small amount on the upper and lower frame cups were the sealed bearing sit.

i rebuilt it all back up, first tightening up the top cap so untill the handle bars wouldn't turn on their own but them slacking it back off untill they just could, then as normal aligning the handle bars and forks before tightening the stem bolt. after putting the front wheel back on and and pressing the front brake i still have this strange knocking sound. the only options i have now is to pay way over the odds and take it somewhere or as i have my local bike club/shop on facebook and may ask if i can put a shout out asking for help and see if somebody will meet me at the shop. i haven't been on my bike in 3+ weeks and im BOARD :arrow: :evil: even my xbox is doing my head in LoL

What do you guys think ?????????

Turn your fork to 90 degrees and rock again. And?

Kowalski675

Or get a helper to lift the front off the floor, grab the stanchions and try rock the forks forward/back, feeling for play in the headset.

winter_zombie

well ive tried to do a small vid so you can see yourself, its two small films one up close incase it helps you hear the knocking.

thanks again

http://s1084.photobucket.com/user/winter_zombie/media/bike%20headset/video/MyMovie1_zps179962d8.mp4.html

coulddobetter

Looking at video your stem is mounted really high . Try putting one or more of the spacers above it . That may allow the headset to compress more , if it is just the top cap tightening against the stem it may not be doing so adequately.