Rear wheel will not sit straight

47p2

That's quite a chunk out of the dropout caused by the axle nut, try a washer on that side as it could be causing the axle to foul the skewer and not tighten up fully

Yossie

ugo.santalucia wrote:

matt-h wrote:

yeah, its gutting tbh.

Surely this is an industry error and will be looked on in a few years as stupid.
Bloody weight wars!

Matt

See where you get with Wiggle... they might argue you should not use hubs with a threaded axle and you might argue that it's not written anywhere... I would assume they will do something to compensate

Why should Wiggle do a compo job because he jeffed up his frame with his wheels? If it was a worldwide well known fact then yes have ago, but as he jeffed up his frame with his wheels (which, incidentally, had the wrong spokes in anyway) ..................

I no understand..................

ugo.santalucia

Yossie wrote:

ugo.santalucia wrote:

matt-h wrote:

yeah, its gutting tbh.

Surely this is an industry error and will be looked on in a few years as stupid.
Bloody weight wars!

Matt

See where you get with Wiggle... they might argue you should not use hubs with a threaded axle and you might argue that it's not written anywhere... I would assume they will do something to compensate

Why should Wiggle do a compo job because he jeffed up his frame with his wheels? If it was a worldwide well known fact then yes have ago, but as he jeffed up his frame with his wheels (which, incidentally, had the wrong spokes in anyway) ..................

I no understand..................

Because he didn't do anything wrong. If those dropouts are somehow fragile or soft, then they should come with a sticker on them saying

Achtung: only the supplied hubs and QR can be used on this frame or look at www.whatever.com for a list of suitable hubs and wheels... simple no?

nicklouse

but as we know a wheel can quite easily be held inplace without the axle being in contact at all IF the Qr is done up correctly.

I would put this down to an incorrectly fitted wheel allowing the hub to move in the dropout which has made the issue worse than normal.

gozzy

I'd not even considered this as a problem. I'm running 105 hubs on a Scott Cr1 with carbon drop outs, I'd rather not suffer a similar issue.

How much of an problem is this likely to be?

How do you stop the axle coming into contact with the drop out? Does the drop out not automatically rest on the axle when you put the wheel in?

Should doing the QRs up way tight while the bike rests on the wheels avoid this?

matt-h

I suppose it is entirely possible I have put the wheel in incorrect, however, this is not the only bike I have had with QR.
I have a Carbon MTB that has more wheel changes due to different tyre changes and lots of punctures and I have never had a problem, I have another old mtb that again has not suffered the same fate.

Also not sure why having the wrong spokes in somehow makes a difference :roll: I didn't build them!

Matt

ugo.santalucia

matt-h wrote:

Also not sure why having the wrong spokes in somehow makes a difference :roll: I didn't build them!

Matt

It doesn't, of course

patrickf

The "wrong" spokes would surely only really pose a higher puncture risk if they're too long. Also shorter fatigue life if they're lightweight spokes with a heavier rider. That would only cause spokes to break possibly taking the rim out of true. Won't affect the hub.

Spokes do not support the axle or QR - it's the other way round.

keef66

As a recent purchaser of a CR1-SL I find those photos quite disturbing. I'm off to have a good look at my dropouts when I get home. As far as I can remember my RS10 axles are threaded right to the ends :shock:

migrantwing

The only thing to suggest is to use a shim or type of washer to eliminate any rub inside the dropouts, if it works, obviously. Then there is the question of integrity of the QR if using a shim/washer. What a complete PITA!

Yossie

nicklouse wrote:

but as we know a wheel can quite easily be held inplace without the axle being in contact at all IF the Qr is done up correctly.

I would put this down to an incorrectly fitted wheel allowing the hub to move in the dropout which has made the issue worse than normal.

Yup.

Incorrect wheel fitting leads to jeffing up bike - nothing to do with "soft" drop outs otherwise there would be squillions of claims worldwide.

Its what they call "a lesson" methinks.

matt-h

Wahoo! Cayo evo 1.0 2013 frame coming from Focus and Wiggle

Matt

robbielad9

dont know if anyone has mentioned this yet but i had the same problem, and it turned out to be the cassette was not tightened properly and made the wheel sit slighly out, hope this helps but then again maybe not :?

lackofgrip

I had the same frame from Wiggle. Focus Cayo 2011. Sent it back as rear wheel was hitting left chain-stay as it is with yours. It's a frame defect. I got a full refund.

Dropouts are too soft. As has been mentioned I had threaded axles on the Rodi Stylus wheelset which came with it.

Chewed it up causing the wheel to twist in the frame when power was applied.

Shit design. END OF

TheBigBean

Gozzy wrote:

I'd not even considered this as a problem. I'm running 105 hubs on a Scott Cr1 with carbon drop outs, I'd rather not suffer a similar issue.

How much of an problem is this likely to be?

How do you stop the axle coming into contact with the drop out? Does the drop out not automatically rest on the axle when you put the wheel in?

Should doing the QRs up way tight while the bike rests on the wheels avoid this?

This!

matt-h

lackofgrip wrote:

I had the same frame from Wiggle. Focus Cayo 2011. Sent it back as rear wheel was hitting left chain-stay as it is with yours. It's a frame defect. I got a full refund.

Dropouts are too soft. As has been mentioned I had threaded axles on the Rodi Stylus wheelset which came with it.

Chewed it up causing the wheel to twist in the frame when power was applied.

shoot design. END OF

Wow, thanks for getting back to me with this.
How long did you have the bike when you got the refund?

Hope it wont be a problem with the new frame

Matt

lackofgrip

I only had it 4 months, but a defect is a defect

luv2ride

uh oh, have noticed the rear wheel doesn't always sit properly in my 3 month old CR1 SL frame (tyre seems closer to the drive side chainstay than the non-drive side). Will check drop outs and try different wheel as others have suggested. Hope I'm not going down a warranty route as I'd thought all the 2012 frames had gone...

luv2ride

Luv2ride wrote:

uh oh, have noticed the rear wheel doesn't always sit properly in my 3 month old CR1 SL frame (tyre seems closer to the drive side chainstay than the non-drive side). Will check drop outs and try different wheel as others have suggested. Hope I'm not going down a warranty route as I'd thought all the 2012 frames had gone...

Inside of dropouts seem ok. Wheel axles are "sleeved" not threaded, so not chewing up the drop outs as far as I can tell. Tried the Ksyrium Equipe rear from my winter bike and that sits better. My "summer" wheels on my CR1 are Prolite Braccianos. How do I tell if the rear wheel needs looking at, given the previous comments about dishing?

matt-h

LBS should have a tool that sits across the rim.

Matt

lackofgrip

Luv2ride wrote:

uh oh, have noticed the rear wheel doesn't always sit properly in my 3 month old CR1 SL frame (tyre seems closer to the drive side chainstay than the non-drive side). Will check drop outs and try different wheel as others have suggested. Hope I'm not going down a warranty route as I'd thought all the 2012 frames had gone...

Its the same with my CUBE, you may find it's central to the seat post but not to the stays. My CUBE is aluminium.
Closer to the drive side I shouldn't worry as it is probably a frame design that needs to be close so that the chainset clears the drive side stay.

Hope that makes sense??

Hewitt Cycles

An easy way of checking if the issue is with the frame or wheel, is by putting the wheel in the dropouts the other way round, ie the cassette on the LHS, make sure the top sprocket doesn't foul on the frame.

If the tyre is still closer to the same side it is the frame at fault, if the tyre is closer to the opposite side it's the wheel that is out of centre.

http://www.hewittcycles.co.uk

DexDexterBMX

Just had a full bike replace today because the carbon frame was bent from new.

Didn't take me long to convince the shop and good way of proving if the back end is out is to run a long bar from rear dropout to head tube and then measure how far away the seat post is from bar.

Then measure the other side.

Mine was out by 5mm by time it reached the seatpost which meant the back wheel was out by a good wheel width back to the front.

If you dont have a long enough bar run a short one along the back wheel and see where it meets the front. Again swap over and see where it meets. If the frame is out it is likely to meet in the middle of the front wheel one way and leave a gap the other

This info is just there to help and doesn't suggest any opinion from me on whether your particular issue is dropouts or frame.

The Mechanic

I seem to remember this kind of issue came up a while ago in relation to a Boardman frame with carbon dropouts. IIRC, Halfrauds refused a warrantee claim on the grounds that it was wear and tear. Not sure how old the frame was though.

I have just bought a 2013 Felt Z4 which has carbon dropouts and RS20 wheels. Will check them out tonight.

lackofgrip

I think it seems to be when the dropouts are full carbon and the wheel axle is threaded (like shimano). It just chews into the carbon.

monkeysm8

I've just happened across this thread from a Google search.

I have a 2011 Cayo and I noticed after riding in this morning (it only comes out when it's sunny), my wheel is sitting closer to the non driveside stay. I'm going to investigate the drop outs now thanks to this thread!!

lackofgrip

monkeysm8 wrote:

I've just happened across this thread from a Google search.

I have a 2011 Cayo and I noticed after riding in this morning (it only comes out when it's sunny), my wheel is sitting closer to the non driveside stay. I'm going to investigate the drop outs now thanks to this thread!!

It's clearly a design fault

monkeysm8

I'm running Planet X Model B wheels so I haven't got the Shimano axle. I will let you know when I have a look in about 30 mins or so

monkeysm8

Well it appears to be that the dish of my wheel is out. As when I flipped the wheel around, the wheel sits closer to the non drive side.