Aero wheel set sensible for my riding?

jane90

But wouldn't that be a value judgement to make on an individual basis, depending on the spoke count and weight of the factory wheel? Or is that universally true for every factory wheel for every buyer, that there will always be a lighter, more spoke-appropriate handbuilt alternative?

Grill

There are no absolutes in that respect as you can't handbuilt to the perfection that is Lightweight.

Seriously though, these sort of cyclical discussions are the reason I stay single.

blackhands

I only use handbuilts for training for one very good reason. If I'm 30 miles from home I want the most reliable wheel I can get - and for me its 36 spoke handbuilts. As I'm training the fact that I'm say 1mph slower is irrelevant. Currently I use a lare flange Dura Ace 36 front and a small flange Ultegra 36 on the back - I sometimes use a Campag large flange 40 hole on the back in winter. On my fixed bike I use large flange 36 Campagnolo track hubs or large flange 36/40 Airlite hubs. Rims are always Mavic and most importantly the best Sapim spokes.

Only for racing (time trialling) do I use factory wheels - a 12 spoke Campag Shamal on the front and a Mavic Disc on the back. But, in very heavy side winds I use a Planet X 20mm carbon rim hand built onto a Planet X 24 spoke smalll flange hub. (btw I'm not sure you could get 12 spoke handbuilts)

But, whatever floats your boat if you want wheels for general riding.

jane90

Thanks for your time, Grill. I've still got a lot to learn about cycling and I'm trying to understand the whole argument for and against handbuilts or factory wheels. I always appreciate when experienced cyclists take the time to explain things to the newcomers, although I confess I still don't quite understand all the arguments in this thread.

Anyway, vodka time! Have a great evening and don't get too impatient for the arrival of your new Wyndymillar

(p.s. if handbuilts are so great, why do you have a pair of RZR's?)

Grill

Won't be able to ride the Wyndy until August due to the 24 and LEL so no rush.

RZR's are in the same class as Lightweight- i.e. Godly. Although they're not handbuilts they were built by hand.

imposter2.0

Grill wrote:

Although they're not handbuilts they were built by hand.

that's nice n clear then.

Grill

Imposter wrote:

Grill wrote:

Although they're not handbuilts they were built by hand.

that's nice n clear then.

Try and keep up with the vernacular

imposter2.0

Grill wrote:

Try and keep up with the vernacular

unlikely - I lost interest in this discussion several posts ago.

Grill

And yet you still post...

imposter2.0

Grill wrote:

And yet you still post...

The thread's 'waffle limit' has already been exceeded, so I see no harm in it...

Grill

Point taken.

sloppyschleckonds

blackhands wrote:

I only use handbuilts for training for one very good reason. If I'm 30 miles from home I want the most reliable wheel I can get - and for me its 36 spoke handbuilts. As I'm training the fact that I'm say 1mph slower is irrelevant. Currently I use a lare flange Dura Ace 36 front and a small flange Ultegra 36 on the back - I sometimes use a Campag large flange 40 hole on the back in winter. On my fixed bike I use large flange 36 Campagnolo track hubs or large flange 36/40 Airlite hubs. Rims are always Mavic and most importantly the best Sapim spokes.

Only for racing (time trialling) do I use factory wheels - a 12 spoke Campag Shamal on the front and a Mavic Disc on the back. But, in very heavy side winds I use a Planet X 20mm carbon rim hand built onto a Planet X 24 spoke smalll flange hub. (btw I'm not sure you could get 12 spoke handbuilts)

But, whatever floats your boat if you want wheels for general riding.

This advice is wasted on this thread.

Bobbinogs

I think all advice is wasted on this thread except "whatever floats your boat"

blackhands

SloppySchleckonds wrote:

blackhands wrote:

I only use handbuilts for training for one very good reason. If I'm 30 miles from home I want the most reliable wheel I can get - and for me its 36 spoke handbuilts. As I'm training the fact that I'm say 1mph slower is irrelevant. Currently I use a lare flange Dura Ace 36 front and a small flange Ultegra 36 on the back - I sometimes use a Campag large flange 40 hole on the back in winter. On my fixed bike I use large flange 36 Campagnolo track hubs or large flange 36/40 Airlite hubs. Rims are always Mavic and most importantly the best Sapim spokes.

Only for racing (time trialling) do I use factory wheels - a 12 spoke Campag Shamal on the front and a Mavic Disc on the back. But, in very heavy side winds I use a Planet X 20mm carbon rim hand built onto a Planet X 24 spoke smalll flange hub. (btw I'm not sure you could get 12 spoke handbuilts)

But, whatever floats your boat if you want wheels for general riding.

This advice is wasted on this thread.

It wasn't meant as direct advice. The point I was trying to make is that you need to make your choice based on your needs and not be seduced into buying something just because is lighter, has fewer spokes or looks good. 55 years of racing and riding has taught me that. I'd only give advice to people I coach.

Having come across people who are far from home with an un-rideable bike because one spoke has broken has shown me the importance of reliability. What other people do is up to them - I only relate my experience of what works for me, and I put great store on the choice of wheels and tyres.