standard spec of diamondback mt30 Now With Pics

gordonmackay
gordonmackay Posts: 35
edited June 2013 in MTB general
Hi folks.im totally new to mtbing but loving it.i have a very nice mt30 diamondback which ilove and im doing 10 miles every day so far on cycle paths and light trails.im on a very tight budget but id like to gradually upgrade things like brakes wheels bars etc mostly making it lighter.i know id be better buying another bike but i like this one and its the obe i will be stuck with.i have no idea what mtb parts are interchangeable so does anyone know the standard spec so i can find out sizes etc.im looking for hydraulic brakes first.any help greatly appreciated.regards Gordy
Its nice to be important but its more important to be nice.Its even nicer to be extremely violent to those who arent nice to you!
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Comments

  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    We could tell the specs from some decent quality photo's of the key parts, bars and controls, forks, rear mech etc...

    Probably the best first step is decent tyres, lighter and grippier.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Thanks for the reply.i will take pics later today.
    Its nice to be important but its more important to be nice.Its even nicer to be extremely violent to those who arent nice to you!
  • pics
    Its nice to be important but its more important to be nice.Its even nicer to be extremely violent to those who arent nice to you!
  • pics
    Its nice to be important but its more important to be nice.Its even nicer to be extremely violent to those who arent nice to you!
  • pics
    Its nice to be important but its more important to be nice.Its even nicer to be extremely violent to those who arent nice to you!
  • pics
    Its nice to be important but its more important to be nice.Its even nicer to be extremely violent to those who arent nice to you!
  • Any help on original sizes/spec or advice on upgrades etc greatly appreciated.Like I said im on a tight budget so will be doing things bit by bit but not really bothered about incredible downhill performance lol as im just doing very easy offroad and cycle paths etc.Mostly weight saving id say. Again many thanks.
    Its nice to be important but its more important to be nice.Its even nicer to be extremely violent to those who arent nice to you!
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Without a microscope it's hard to say, but what is a tight budget?
    And why are you hung up on original spec - why don't you just read what it says on the bits?
    I can see a Tioga stem and Maxxis tyres if it helps.
    I don't do smileys.

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  • YeehaaMcgee
    YeehaaMcgee Posts: 5,740
    i know id be better buying another bike but i like this one and its the obe i will be stuck with.
    Why will you be stuck with it?
    New tyres will set you back roughly 40-80 quid for a decent light pair.
    Brakes will set you back over a ton.
    Wheels will be roughly £150 for an entry level pair (but there's a good chance that your current bike has a screw-on freewheel, so you'll need a new casette as well, so add from 40-70 quid for that, as well)
    Bars? Well, how much do you want to pay? For a light set of bars, expect 50 quid upwards.

    So you're already looking at roughly £430.
    Save up a bit more, and you could get a potentially lovely bike.

    Oh, and if you want to lose weight, ditch all the reflectors and mudguards as a starting point. Especially the reflector you have that's hidden under the front mudguard.
  • Took up biking due to trying to help with a medical condition which makes walking very sore for me.cycling is easier for me and helps to build the strength in my legs.im stuck with this bike as it took me a long time to save up for it even though it was only £75 secondhand.I work part time and refuse to accept any kind of benifits so "tight budget" is just that,after food rent etc my bike is next in line.my dreams of upgrading are now shattered due to costs involved.This is my first bike so I had no idea of the costs involved for parts hence my asking for advice guys.Thanks for the replys,appreciate your time and input.I shall continue to enjoy riding my bike nonetheless but she shall remain the way I got it.
    Its nice to be important but its more important to be nice.Its even nicer to be extremely violent to those who arent nice to you!
  • PS Im not hung up on standard spec.I was told there are different sizes for stems/bars/seat posts etc and have no way of measuring them so was asking if anyone knew the sizes/spec in case i needed/wanted another.
    Its nice to be important but its more important to be nice.Its even nicer to be extremely violent to those who arent nice to you!
  • YeehaaMcgee
    YeehaaMcgee Posts: 5,740
    I'm sorry to hear your budget is so tight, I really am. I spent years without two pennies to rub together myself.
    Sadly though, upgrades (worthwhile ones) are expensive.
  • Thank you.im just happy to be able to get out and about now.the lighter i could make the bike the easier it would be for me to use but not to worry,its a nice colour lol i like to tinker and learn as i go and hope to do my own maintainance too.heres to happy biking.
    Its nice to be important but its more important to be nice.Its even nicer to be extremely violent to those who arent nice to you!
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Forks look dreadful, but decent pics would help, rigid ones would be lighter and better off road!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    Cheapest weight loss will be new tyres. A set of basic folding Schwalbe Nobby Nics will be around £35. A lot of weight could be lost by changing the forks, either rigid or some used Rockshox Tora's or Recons for £50-£100.
    Ditch the reflectors & mud guards. If you want a front mud guard, you can make a more effective one with an old innertube for free and it will be lighter than what you have. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_gna400gERWk/S ... G_3386.JPG
  • Wonderful.thanks so much for the info.so there is hope?lol mudguards/reflectors coming off tomorrow.i can get the tyres on friday and will start saving for forks.again thank you for taking the time to post.
    Its nice to be important but its more important to be nice.Its even nicer to be extremely violent to those who arent nice to you!
  • YeehaaMcgee
    YeehaaMcgee Posts: 5,740
    He's guessing about the tyres and forks. It's hard to tell from the tiny images, but are they Suntour XCRs? You're not going to save a great deal of weight with TORA forks. And you (annoyingly) won't find a decent lightweight carbon fork on the cheap either - they've become little fashion trinkets for the deep-of-pocket and shallow-of-mind, so the price has rocketed up.
    As for the tyres, well, all I can see is that they're Maxxis. Maxxis make some pretty good tyres.

    If you're intent on changing tyres, then for the states use, I'd suggest going for some semi-slicks, rather than knobblies. They'll make your life much easier since they roll FAR faster. I got on well with Halo Twinrails for a long time.
  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    Toras are a fair amount lighter than XCRs. I took a pair off the wifes bike and swapped them for Toras, I was surprised at the weight difference. The XCRs werent much lighter than my Domains.
  • YeehaaMcgee
    YeehaaMcgee Posts: 5,740
    The XCRs werent much lighter than my Domains.
    Holy cow, really? :shock:
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    No not really...
    XCR's 2250g
    Domains 2950g

    I think circa 25% is 'much lighter' myself.

    Tora circa 2060g.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Forks are certainly xcr's.i saw a few toras going cheap last night but some say 175mm and others 200mm.would both fit my bike and would i have to take the xcrs off to measurethem?
    As for tyres.i love the look of nobblies but i need ease rather than x/c grip.im thinking the one with nobbles on outside and tread in centre?are these called semi slick? They seem the ideal choice for me i think.removed mudguards etc today so going for a play.regards Gordy
    Its nice to be important but its more important to be nice.Its even nicer to be extremely violent to those who arent nice to you!
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    You need to measure your steerer tube.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

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  • Forks are certainly xcr's.tyres are mixxis high rollers.as for forks,ive seen some fairly cheap toras but some say 175mm and some 200mm? Would i have to take the xcrs off to measure or is it the headstock measurement? As for tyres,im going down the ease of motion route rather than off road grip.i think the ones with treadless centre but nobbles on outer.are the called semi slicks? Once again many thanks for your help.

    Ps. Guards and reflectors removed today just in time to get drenched in heavy rain lol
    Its nice to be important but its more important to be nice.Its even nicer to be extremely violent to those who arent nice to you!
  • Apologise for double post.my first one didnt appear straight away.
    Its nice to be important but its more important to be nice.Its even nicer to be extremely violent to those who arent nice to you!
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Yep, you need to measure the steerer tube of your forks.
  • supersonic wrote:
    Yep, you need to measure the steerer tube of your forks.

    is the steerer tube the headstock of the frame? well thats what its called on motorbikes. Ive measured the actual tube (end of frame part) and its 155mm long.The length from top to bottom of actual fork stem is 178mm roughly.I have no idea what the rings are between the bars and steering tube (spacers perhaps). so anyway,nothing measures 175mm or indeed 200mm like most forks adverts state.any suggestions? also do you think the steering stem would be 1 1/8th on mine? thanks again and sorry if my questions are daft. regards Gordy
    Its nice to be important but its more important to be nice.Its even nicer to be extremely violent to those who arent nice to you!
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    The steerer tube is part of the forks - the bit that sticks through the head tube of the frame. The stem is the bit than attaches your bars to the steerer tube.
    Read parktools - link below.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

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  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    You cam measure your steerer accurately enough in the frame, from the bottom of the headset through to the top of the stem, less about 3mm, if you have more than a small spacer you can go shorter and not fit some!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • You cam measure your steerer accurately enough in the frame, from the bottom of the headset through to the top of the stem, less about 3mm, if you have more than a small spacer you can go shorter and not fit some!

    ah I see. There are 5 spacers between stem and headtube measuring 25mm for all 5.From top of stem to bottom of headtube inc spacers its 230mm.would I be correct sumising its then a 200mm fork id require?
    Its nice to be important but its more important to be nice.Its even nicer to be extremely violent to those who arent nice to you!
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    It would probably be too short - 230 minus 25 is 205. And too short is disastrous so either make sure the steerer is long enough or meausre it properly
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

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