Upgrade suggestions for weight
Comments
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bernithebiker wrote:ednino wrote:The saddle is 308g! That's got to go lol! The Specialized toupe on my other bike is more like 170g I think.
I want to keep to a Fizik saddle though. Suggestions?
Yep, looks like I wasn't far off with my 550g estimate of seat and post.
Here's how to do a 200g combo;
Ax Lightness saddle = 70g
Use Alien carbon post, cut down, 130g.
Voila!
Doesnt that make the seat almost stone-like hard ?Living MY dream.0 -
VTech wrote:bernithebiker wrote:ednino wrote:The saddle is 308g! That's got to go lol! The Specialized toupe on my other bike is more like 170g I think.
I want to keep to a Fizik saddle though. Suggestions?
Yep, looks like I wasn't far off with my 550g estimate of seat and post.
Here's how to do a 200g combo;
Ax Lightness saddle = 70g
Use Alien carbon post, cut down, 130g.
Voila!
Doesnt that make the seat almost stone-like hard ?
Some of the most comfortable saddles have no padding at all, but you'd be stupid indeed to opt for a less comfortable saddle for the sake of a couple of hundred grams.0 -
VTech wrote:bernithebiker wrote:ednino wrote:The saddle is 308g! That's got to go lol! The Specialized toupe on my other bike is more like 170g I think.
I want to keep to a Fizik saddle though. Suggestions?
Yep, looks like I wasn't far off with my 550g estimate of seat and post.
Here's how to do a 200g combo;
Ax Lightness saddle = 70g
Use Alien carbon post, cut down, 130g.
Voila!
Doesnt that make the seat almost stone-like hard ?
Yes!
But I've always said it's not the padding of the seat that matters, it's the shape. After all you have a great big pad in your shorts.
That AX shape fits me perfectly - I've had it for 12 years, and I have one on my MTB too. The best money I ever spent on my bike.
And the carbon rails means that it flexes when you apply pressure to it.0 -
The problem is, how many do you try before you find the right one ?
I mean, no one is going to let you use them on trial so you could buy 10-20 before finding a perfect saddle for you.Living MY dream.0 -
VTech wrote:The problem is, how many do you try before you find the right one ?
I mean, no one is going to let you use them on trial so you could buy 10-20 before finding a perfect saddle for you.
Good point. I started off with Flite Titaniums which were great saddles and fit me well at the time, and the AX shape isn't so different.
I suppose you could buy a batch of 2 or 3 different saddles and try them, then sell them on as almost new for 80% of cost.0 -
This is quite a good point as my limitation feels to me to be the saddle.
I get to around 35-40k and my backside is really starting to hurt and I then struggle on but with discomfort which in turn ruins the pleasure of the ride.
If i could get over the discomfort I am sure I would go much further.Living MY dream.0 -
VTech wrote:This is quite a good point as my limitation feels to me to be the saddle.
I get to around 35-40k and my backside is really starting to hurt and I then struggle on but with discomfort which in turn ruins the pleasure of the ride.
If i could get over the discomfort I am sure I would go much further.
Well worth trying another saddle; what have you got to lose? £20?
The polished carbon of the AX means there's no friction between shorts and saddle too.
And it's worth noting that the more you can drop your bars and raise your saddle, the less weight will be on your bum, but then you might start getting neck and back ache........0 -
I have just started to raise the height of my saddle as im getting fitter and will also be putting on a slightly longer stem. I would happily look for a lighter and better saddle but would like to know how to try and at least be on the right path of selecting the right type.Living MY dream.0
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VTech wrote:I have just started to raise the height of my saddle as im getting fitter and will also be putting on a slightly longer stem. I would happily look for a lighter and better saddle but would like to know how to try and at least be on the right path of selecting the right type.
What have you got now?0 -
This for me is the problem with solid carbon saddles - I like a bit of friction to prevent sliding back (or forward) on the saddle. A very thin layer of padding, as found in most lightweight but not ww saddles, seems to do the trick in this respect.bernithebiker wrote:The polished carbon of the AX means there's no friction between shorts and saddle too.0 -
bernithebiker wrote:VTech wrote:I have just started to raise the height of my saddle as im getting fitter and will also be putting on a slightly longer stem. I would happily look for a lighter and better saddle but would like to know how to try and at least be on the right path of selecting the right type.
What have you got now?
Prologo Zero 2.0
Standard Felt saddle.Living MY dream.0 -
bernithebiker wrote:ednino wrote:The saddle is 308g! That's got to go lol! The Specialized toupe on my other bike is more like 170g I think.
I want to keep to a Fizik saddle though. Suggestions?
Yep, looks like I wasn't far off with my 550g estimate of seat and post.
Here's how to do a 200g combo;
Ax Lightness saddle = 70g
Use Alien carbon post, cut down, 130g.
Voila!
Just cut down my KCNC seatpost and its now 140g
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Pedals, brakes and levers arnt heavy wtf are you on about?0
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speedplays are 200g or less0
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Speedplay Zero Ti are 164. The cleats are 115, but I think the Shimano ones are about 70? So 279 vs. 370 odd, 100g difference. There's a similar difference between high end and lower end brakes. Depends what you consider heavy, it's all relative. No individual component is going to make a noticeable difference to total bike weight, it's the sum of all of them that matters.thiscocks wrote:0 -
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That's a fair question. It would be interesting to try to calculate how much it costs on average to save a siginicant amount of weight. Just going by the costs and weights of complete bikes, it seems that you might pay £1000+ per kilo, but that's a bit misleading as the more expensive bikes have frames, wheels and components that are superior in other ways as well as just being lighter. It's actually quite difficult to fully seperate weight gains from other gains when you are looking at the costs of some components, as lighter stuff also tends to be better quality.Simon Masterson wrote:
So you would need to apply a correction factor, especially when looking at things like wheels and frames. Perhaps not so much for groupsets these days - once you get past the lower/mid range, everything seems to be very solid and to work very well, so you really are just paying for weight when you go from 105 or ultegra to DA or from chorus to SR.0 -
Well ive saved another 1.5lb this week and ive made money, I spent a good £10 less on cr4p that I used to eat and feel the better for it
Of course being 30lb overweight means that losses should be easier than if I was svelt but I guess thats the good part of being a fatty Living MY dream.0 -
neeb wrote:
That's a fair question. It would be interesting to try to calculate how much it costs on average to save a siginicant amount of weight. Just going by the costs and weights of complete bikes, it seems that you might pay £1000+ per kilo, but that's a bit misleading as the more expensive bikes have frames, wheels and components that are superior in other ways as well as just being lighter. It's actually quite difficult to fully seperate weight gains from other gains when you are looking at the costs of some components, as lighter stuff also tends to be better quality.Simon Masterson wrote:
So you would need to apply a correction factor, especially when looking at things like wheels and frames. Perhaps not so much for groupsets these days - once you get past the lower/mid range, everything seems to be very solid and to work very well, so you really are just paying for weight when you go from 105 or ultegra to DA or from chorus to SR.
You've hit the nail on the head there.
Without going into the relative unimportance of weight, the fact is that once you've dealt with the frame, fork and wheels, you have effectively defined your bike. Anything further that you buy will be better quality first and lighter second. If you have 3kg of frame and fork and 2kg of wheels, you aren't going to end up with a 6.8kg bike. Ultegra bits are better than Tiagra bits. They are also lighter, but the frame you put them on is likely to be better and lighter as well; same with higher end groupsets and bikes, the riders that warrant them and the competitions they use them in.
Other than opting for a saddle other than the one you find most comfortable for the sake of 100g, what's truly silly is spending hundreds shedding even a kilo or two (if not just a few hundred grams) from an entry level bike; particularly on things like cranksets that won't make any other difference. It still won't make you faster, but I could understand paying out a little to get a 7.5kg racing bike down to the legal limit...0 -
ednino wrote:VTech wrote:How heavy are "you" ?
60kg
You need to put some weight on- get a bit of muscle and you'll ride faster. 60 kg is anorexic skin and bone ( unless your 4'6")Bianchi Infinito CV
Bianchi Via Nirone 7 Ultegra
Brompton S Type
Carrera Vengeance Ultimate Ltd
Gary Fisher Aquila '98
Front half of a Viking Saratoga Tandem0 -
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Lets not let facts get in the way of a bit of forum banterSimon Masterson wrote:Like Pantani?
I'm only jealous as the last time I was 60 kg was probably 30 years ago in my mid teens.Bianchi Infinito CV
Bianchi Via Nirone 7 Ultegra
Brompton S Type
Carrera Vengeance Ultimate Ltd
Gary Fisher Aquila '98
Front half of a Viking Saratoga Tandem0 -
You have a terminal illness and you are still worried about the weight of your bike - respect!.Yellow is the new Black.0
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Ive thought about this for an hour and was so glad to come back and see smidsy had deflected the situation
I feel for t4tomo as there is no way he meant harm by his comment, im sure ednino knows that of course.Living MY dream.0 -
Maybe I just can't see it but I am struggling to understand the objective to this thread. Is the weight loss (of the bike ) in order to just make it lighter (with seemingly no regard to VFM) or is it to achieve something performance wise, like go up hills quicker?
My point is that saving weight can always be achieved, but it becomes the law of diminishing returns fairly quickly...and for me I don't comprehend it when folks talk about spending a couple of hundred quid to save 50g when a better cycling performance could be achieved through spending money on a decent coach...or by making the bike more comfortable such that rider rides more, or by going on training camp to Tenerife, etc. However, if one wants to take weight loss to the nth degree then one could consider what this year's hill climbing champ did which was look at every component and see what could be done...so he cut off the drops off his handlebars, removed the big ring, brakes and even drilled holes in his saddle, etc.
So, given he was the hill champ did this mean that the bike adjustment helped him win? Well, possibly but I strongly suspect (and with good reason) that the chap would still thrash me comfortably on any hill even if we swapped bikes. However, my bike (or rather, bikes) are all decent and help me ride to my performance limits whilst keeping cycling pleasureable.
Nothing wrong with a bit of bling, mind you, but bling is not always lighter (deep section wheels anyone?).0
