Upgrade suggestions for weight
ednino
Posts: 684
I've got one of these
I've already changed wheels/tyres for nice ones & have a KCNC seatpost on order
What would you suggest changing next to lose some more weight?
I've already changed wheels/tyres for nice ones & have a KCNC seatpost on order
What would you suggest changing next to lose some more weight?
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For what, maximum weight loss (possibilities fairly endless), or cost/gram ratio?0
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Well im wondering what is heavy. Tiagra cranks don't look light and im not sure about that saddle0
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Best to get an idea what the current kit weighs first, you might find the cost to weight reduction ratio a bit crap. You've already covered the best gain in the wheels and tyres.0
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Get a carbon seat post and a new saddle, you'll save weight and (hopefully) end up with a comfier ride (which is a better reason to upgrade than weight!).0
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You've already chosen your frame and fork, so choose some good quality, suitable wheels.
Outside of these 'fundamentals' you are at risk of wasting your money by making serious outlay to save weight, as the savings are generally minimal, and certainly less than on the aforementioned. Components and finishing kit aren't very heavy to begin with; even in cranksets there isn't that much weight to be saved - I haven't heard of any that weigh 200g. Weight is a decidedly secondary factor in cycling anyway; there are far better uses for your money than clawing back the weight of a water bottle. Buy things because they enhance your ride, not because they appease the scales.0 -
At a guess, I would say your saddle and seatpost weigh about 550g together.
As a guide, mine weigh just over 200, so that's 350g you could lose right there.0 -
I'm guessing the crank is the next large thing you can change, put an ultegra one on instead. Aside from that there's not a lot left - except perhaps the rider
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Good frame to upgrade though whether it be for bling or performance.
Those who seem to be 'antiupgrade' probably should just pedal harder themselves 0 -
Chainset and as luck would have it.....I have a FSA K Light carbon one from a CAAD 10 for sale. Done >300 miles. BB30 is the work of satan and I'm fitting a Shimano adapter to my CAAD 10.
Seriously, if you're interested send me a PM. I'm stripping it from the bike this w'end and it will be in the classifieds and eBay soon after.
Edit: 310g saving over manufacturers claimed weights (903g for Tiagra and 593g for the FSA).“Training is like fighting with a gorilla. You don’t stop when you’re tired. You stop when the gorilla is tired.”0 -
Wafer thin inner tubes, best bang for the buck.WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
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How heavy are "you" ?Living MY dream.0
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VTech wrote:How heavy are "you" ?
When people are willing to throw good money at 'upgrades' don't let common sense enter the equation
“Training is like fighting with a gorilla. You don’t stop when you’re tired. You stop when the gorilla is tired.”0 -
You have the frame and forks, seat post, wheels, tyres and tubes.
The only things left are the finishing kit itmes so (brakes, sti levers, bars, stem and headset).Yellow is the new Black.0 -
You could ditch the 1.5kg that two full bidons weigh.WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
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This is good advice. I’m amazed at how many of my fellow road racers spend thousands of pounds making their bikes lighter with carbon and titanium nik-naks and then they load them up with two XL bottles of energy drink. You just don’t get the opportunity to drink that much in a road race. And in sportives - this is what the feed stops are for, refill your bottle!drlodge wrote:You could ditch the 1.5kg that two full bidons weigh.0 -
ju5t1n wrote:
This is good advice. I’m amazed at how many of my fellow road racers spend thousands of pounds making their bikes lighter with carbon and titanium nik-naks and then they load them up with two XL bottles of energy drink. You just don’t get the opportunity to drink that much in a road race. And in sportives - this is what the feed stops are for, refill your bottle!drlodge wrote:You could ditch the 1.5kg that two full bidons weigh.
Haha tell me about it! Took my blingy 953 Super Record bike round the Burgess Hill Spring time Classic in March - 72 miles of hills, with 2x1 litre bidons. One was full for the entire journey (I refilled the first at the half way point), so an extra 1kg being lugged up and down!WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
Find me on Strava0 -
Of course you make your bike lighter in order to carry more drinks! Some people even remove valve caps and stickers, if they want to add sugar to their drinks.
The heaviest parts on the bike are wheels and frame. On the wheels, you can save a little more with lighter tubes and tyres. Other heavy parts are crankset, break-handles/gear-shifters, pedals and breaks. Of course, you can find a light-weight version of pretty much every part on the bike. But in the end, it is probably cheaper to get a lighter frame instead - repeat until there is no lighter frame anymore, then look for lighter wheels, etc. Having started with a more expensive bike could have saved you a fair amount of money as well.0 -
The best weight saving you can do is yourself. You might be lightweight already, i don't know,but if not, start losing it! Other that that, lighter wheels should make a difference, other than that it's not really worth it at our level.0
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The saddle is 308g! That's got to go lol! The Specialized toupe on my other bike is more like 170g I think.
I want to keep to a Fizik saddle though. Suggestions?0 -
At 60kg it's probably your feather like weight that's floating you around rather than wight loss issues!
Living MY dream.0 -
ednino wrote:The saddle is 308g! That's got to go lol! The Specialized toupe on my other bike is more like 170g I think.
I want to keep to a Fizik saddle though. Suggestions?
Arione cx... carbon rails ... keep an eye for reduced ones... bit overpriced full price, but got mine in March for 120£
I fit an ultra narrow saddle, however.0 -
Looks great, thanks
Im feeling some speedplay pedals after 0 -
Yup - saddle, seatpost, crankset, brakes, probably in that order. But light tyres and tubes (given that you've already upgraded the wheels) will make the most noticeable difference. Replace 100g+ tubes with 50g ones and 260g tyres with 200g ones and that's a quarter kilo of peripheral rotating mass straight away. Other good value places to lose a bit of weight are bottle cages and brake cable housing - alloy ones such as Nokon or Alligator iLinks if you can be bothered with the hassle (I can't), or jagwire.0
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nunowoolmez wrote:Other than that it's not really worth it at our level.
This is moreorless it. Once you've put the best wheels you can afford on the best frame you can afford, it's best to spend on the rest accordingly. If less than £100 saves you 2kg then go for it, but chances are it won't; upgrading cranksets and the like costs much more. All for something that will make little meaningful difference to your cycling at all...0 -
ednino wrote:The saddle is 308g! That's got to go lol! The Specialized toupe on my other bike is more like 170g I think.
I want to keep to a Fizik saddle though. Suggestions?
Yep, looks like I wasn't far off with my 550g estimate of seat and post.
Here's how to do a 200g combo;
Ax Lightness saddle = 70g
Use Alien carbon post, cut down, 130g.
Voila!0
