Why is my new headset stiff?
doublem_1
Posts: 266
I have installed a new headset to my hardtail, its a sealed threadless Aheadset. I have installed it as per the several guides I read up on. Greased the cups etc. I did however use a mallet and screwdriver to install the race crown but it seems a good job to me. It is just pretty stiff and I get resistent when I try to turn it. If I loosen off the bolt at the top it gets a bit better but still stiff. Can anyone help pretty please :oops:
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Are you loosening the stem bolts before loosening the topcap bolt?I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
Yes, stem bolt is very loose. Think I'm about to give up on this build...0
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I tightened the bolt at the top before the stem bolt.0
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Is that bolt actually doing anything? Ie preloading as it should - for that you need a gap0
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Think I may have rectified it. I loosened the stem bolt, tighten the fork bolt (don't know what it's called) just enough so that it turns freely, then tightened the stem bolt all the way, then tighten the fork bolt up a bit. Seems fine now, but I haven't got any wheels on to test it yet.0
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read parktools and then use the words they use then we might have an idea what you are talking about."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
By the fork bolt I mean the cap bolt that screws into the SNF. I'm still not sure it's right but it might just need some adjusting when the wheels are on.0
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Once the stem bolts are pinched up, all tightening the topcap bolt will do is snap it.doublem_1 wrote:Think I may have rectified it. I loosened the stem bolt, tighten the fork bolt (don't know what it's called) just enough so that it turns freely, then tightened the stem bolt all the way, then tighten the fork bolt up a bit. Seems fine now, but I haven't got any wheels on to test it yet.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
You don't do up the top cap bolt tight, just enough to preload the bearing so you get no play, then (and only then) do you do up the bolts on the stem that clamps it round the steerer tube.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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Ok thanks guys, I will wait until the wheels are on until I try again. So once I have tightened the top cap so theres no play, then tighten the stem bolt. Do I tighten the top cap again?0
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No, it won't move after.0
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Thanks for the help guys, I will adjust it whilst watching that youtube video I think!
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The stem has at least two bolts. Have you read Nick's link?doublem_1 wrote:Ok thanks guys, I will wait until the wheels are on until I try again. So once I have tightened the top cap so theres no play, then tighten the stem bolt. Do I tighten the top cap again?I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
cooldad wrote:
The stem has at least two bolts. Have you read Nick's link?doublem_1 wrote:Ok thanks guys, I will wait until the wheels are on until I try again. So once I have tightened the top cap so theres no play, then tighten the stem bolt. Do I tighten the top cap again?
Yes I have had a read through it. Makes things much clearer. I have a Truative stem with a single stem bolt on it. Judging by what I have read I will dissemble everything when I come to do it next and make sure every component is seated correctly.0 -
Make sure the you tube video you are watching is correct....any idiot can make a video after all!Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
