gearing...still
pesky_jones
Posts: 2,890
Still having a nightmare with the gearing set up.
I have a double chainring with bash, its the small chainring with the middle acting as the large and then bash. The casstte is a nine speed 11-32 and the chainrings are 24T and 36T. Ive been fiddling with the Hi and Low screws with no luck. I don't know whether its cables or indexing. The chain has 108 links. Is there anything that i've described that jumps out as being wrong? If not i'm gna take it to lbs because it's been doing my head in.
I have a double chainring with bash, its the small chainring with the middle acting as the large and then bash. The casstte is a nine speed 11-32 and the chainrings are 24T and 36T. Ive been fiddling with the Hi and Low screws with no luck. I don't know whether its cables or indexing. The chain has 108 links. Is there anything that i've described that jumps out as being wrong? If not i'm gna take it to lbs because it's been doing my head in.
0
Comments
-
you don't tell us what the problem you're having actually is...0
-
If the cables are old, replace them. If the indexing is wrong, read 'Read this first' below and index them properly.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
What relevance is the number of chain links? Chain needs to be sized correctly (big/big without rear mech plus 2 links).Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
-
jimothy78 wrote:you don't tell us what the problem you're having actually is...cooldad wrote:If the cables are old, replace them. If the indexing is wrong, read 'Read this first' below and index them properly.The Beginner wrote:What relevance is the number of chain links? Chain needs to be sized correctly (big/big without rear mech plus 2 links).0
-
Can you describe what is wrong then?0
-
You may not know the problem, but you know the symptom.......Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
-
The Beginner wrote:You may not know the problem, but you know the symptom.......
I dont know if that helps..0 -
Assuming you have a conventional and not a rapid rise rear mech.....
Access to the largest gear is achieved by slackening the HIGH screw (without allowing it to fall right over it) if that is the issue.
Access to the smallest gear is controlled by the LOW screw (well it's there to stop it going to far and dropping off the outside)
Have a read of the parktools guide to Indexing the derailleurs, it sounds like you need the help.
First stepis setting the low screw so it's running cleanly in the smallest gear without any cable tensionCurrently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
Ok I'll have another look at park tools.0
-
The Beginner wrote:Assuming you have a conventional and not a rapid rise rear mech.....
Access to the largest gear is achieved by slackening the HIGH screw (without allowing it to fall right over it) if that is the issue.
Access to the smallest gear is controlled by the LOW screw (well it's there to stop it going to far and dropping off the outside)
Have a read of the parktools guide to Indexing the derailleurs, it sounds like you need the help.
First stepis setting the low screw so it's running cleanly in the smallest gear without any cable tension
And the L screw stops the chain dropping into the spokesI don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
The Beginner wrote:Assuming you have a conventional and not a rapid rise rear mech.....
Access to the largest gear is achieved by slackening the HIGH screw (without allowing it to fall right over it) if that is the issue.
Access to the smallest gear is controlled by the LOW screw (well it's there to stop it going to far and dropping off the outside)
Have a read of the parktools guide to Indexing the derailleurs, it sounds like you need the help.
First stepis setting the low screw so it's running cleanly in the smallest gear without any cable tension
I watched this video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_KNGQFPT9U and now its all shifting perfectly
Going to replace cables anyway as they look quite old, the rear is missing that cable cap thing and is starting to fray. Cheers for help0 -
I've said it before, frequently, 99.9999999999% of shifting problems are down to cables. And as cassette spacing gets narrower it will become even more crucial.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
Fraying at the tip isn't really an issue, and a brand new cable will be frayed if it gets caught on something......but always make sure your cables are goodCurrently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
-
ok, i know the amount of fraying isnt an issue but I think they`re old so am going to replace. thanks0
-
Of course. It's on the internet now so must be true.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0